Danube River Cruise

October - November 2015
A 20-day adventure by Pat Read more
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  • 6countries
  • 20days
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  • 5.8kmiles
  • 4.7kmiles
  • Day 4

    Prague, Day 1 Afternoon

    October 20, 2015 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    We arrived, after a long flight. Lufthansa tried to make it pleasant. I suffered some vertigo on the flight which earned the privilege of being whisked through the huge Frankfurt and Prague airports in a wheelchair. And Georges loved the airfield tour as our own bus took us to our plane to Prague. We were the first passengers, treated very hospitably. It's so tempting to request wheelchair assistance for the return journey!

    The Intercontinental Hotel is large, American with no CHARM. But our comfortable room has a wonderful view and marvelous pillows and is beautifully located. While not as beautiful as New England, the trees do show some Fall color.

    We spent our first afternoon walking around The Old Town. The weather is overcast and chilly but our leather jackets are warm. The architecture is so beautiful and the central square is reminiscent of Brussels and Madrid.
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  • Day 4

    Gourmet Prague, Day 1

    October 20, 2015 in Czech Republic ⋅ 🌧 7 °C

    It wouldn't be a vacation without local food. Looking for a cappuccino break, we walked down an alleyway and found a wonderful candy and chocolate shop. Similar to fudge demoes in the States, we watched candy cane makers massage huge lumps of molton, multi-colored sugars into long canes and then chop it into bite size candies. The inside of the candies are wonderful patterns, similar to New York candies my friend Betty gave to Laura for her birthday. The other half of the shop showcases Belgian chocolates of all kinds. Walking around salivating we got a good chuckle from the porno shapes in a tear corner. But most importantly, they had HOT CHOCOLATE just like in Rome. After much debate over whether TWO hot chocolates would be too cloyingly sweet, we decided to share a large chocolate, a cappuccino and a tart, nicely balancing the sugar, caffeine and fruit!

    That fueled us for some more walking. Surprisingly, we were AWAKE! Georges watched movies the whole 9 hour flight but I slept. Coffee and a nice hot breakfast on the plane gave us a good start. We took a 90 minute rest before dinner , including a long soak in the large bathtub for me.

    Wanting "local" good, the concierge sent us to Vun... , warning us to bypass the vibrant bar scene, to the charming cellar restaurant. All kinds of house made sausages sounded great, but we settled on two Czech specialties: roasted goose leg and grilled pig's knuckle. OMG, we were in Foodie Heaven. The goose leg looked like a very large chicken leg, and was better than duck. The log knuckle could have fed four. I sent a nice portion if leftover back with the waiter, suggesting it would make a dog very happy. I enjoyed a Czech rose wine and Georges lapped up a Urquell pilsner. We ended on a high note with apple strudel (Ibi, Georges' mother made it much better) and two Czech brandies, which we hope to bring home.

    I had no trouble falling asleep. :)
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  • Day 5

    Prague, Day 2

    October 21, 2015 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Another overcast day. Fortified by the sumptuous breakfast buffet, we're setting out for more exploration. I just realized we can see the royal palace from our room.

  • Day 5

    Dinner in a Palace, Day 2

    October 21, 2015 in Czech Republic ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    The Tauck tour officially started with a private dinner in the Lebcowicz Palace, part of the royal palace complex, said to be e largest in Europe. Dating back 900 years, the family lost and regained it and their other Czech properties, first to the Nazis and next to the Communists. The current Lebcowicz had the chance to reclaim the family estates after the Velvet Revolution in 1989. It's amazing that so much of the family art was recovered:, mostly stern portraits but also a Brueghel, Valezquez and two Canaletto landscapes featuring London. We enjoyed these artists in The Prado during our Madrid trip last year.

    But what moved me to tears were original manuscripts by Mozart, Hayden and Beethoven. and learning that we have Maximilian Lebcowicz to thank for some of our most important classical music. He met Beethoven when both were young men, and typical of the rich in the 17th century, he supported him with annual stipend, enabling him to compose what he wished, instead of by contract. Manuscripts from Beethoven's 5th Symphony and Eroica were on view, dedicated to his generous patron. This support was continued by Lebcowicz' son.

    But I'm getting ahead of myself. Before this moving tour of the family's private collections (not open to the general public), the evening started with champagne and wine, leading to dinner in a small ballroom, entertained by a string quartet. Dinner: tomato soup with Parmesan cheese and creme fraiche, chicken medallions with pea puree, potato terrine with thyme and wild mushroom sauce and ginger creme brulé with strawberry espuma (foam). At first I thought it to be a boring dinner but each dish was quite delicious.

    What a kickoff to the tour! We met six couples from Thailand and others from Portland, San Francisco and Coral Gables. Tomorrow, we have an early start (8:30am) to tour the city. I'll cover that tomorrow and say "goodnight" now.
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  • Day 6

    Royal Prague Day 3

    October 22, 2015 in Czech Republic ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Headed for the Hadrany District, to the Royal Palace & Upper Town where the most privileged nobleman lived. Two hour tour through the cathedral and castle grounds, culminating at the Charles Bridge for those who want to follow the royal walk. We'd loved it yesterday so we got off and meandered back to the hotel. There we joined an afternoon tour of Jewish Prague. The history is fascinating and we were brought into two synagogues, one now a museum and the other exquisitely paneled, still in use.

    This evening we went to two classical concerts. The first, we thought would be in a church, but was instead in a room upstairs. It was very disappointing, being a saxophonist, a pianist and one singer. Upon leaving we walked past Smetana Hall, where the Prague Philharmonic performs. The timing was just right to catch the 8pm show and so we dashed in. The String performers presented the entire Vivaldi Four Seasons and Pachabel. It was wonderful. Afterwards, we went to a mussel restaurant... Nice atmosphere but so so mussels. We learned on the cruise that these landlocked countries do meat far better than fish.
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  • Day 7

    Regensburg, Day 4

    October 23, 2015 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Heading out on brand new, spacious coach buses to the Danube port town of Regensburg. Beautiful countryside. Our tour guide on the boat intermittently filled the time with German history and tidbits about modern lifestyle. Regensburg is a well restored German town on the Danube. Spent the afternoon walking around, had some bratwurst and bought sweet mustards, said to be a local specialty.Read more

  • Day 7

    Bon Voyage

    October 23, 2015 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I didn't mention that today's weather is beautiful Fall temps. The countryside leaving Regensburg is picturesque. The ship stopped so we could take pictures of Walhalla, a monument to fallen German soldiers. We thought its an unusual location, but perhaps we'll learn more during tomorrow's history talk. Right now, were enjoying prosecco and Chivas during the Captain's safety talk.Read more

  • Day 7

    The Ship! Day 4

    October 23, 2015 in Germany ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    MS Savor is absolutely heavenly! Our room AND bathroom are spacious with plenty of drawers, two closets, numerous outlets and a Nespresso coffee machine. We chose this room because it features a loft, which houses table and chairs with a perfect water view.

    The ship itself is new with a beautiful cocktail lounge, a restaurant which can seat all 118 passengers, a smaller restaurant, a salon, massage room, sauna and steam room.
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  • Day 8

    Passau Day 5

    October 24, 2015 in Germany ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    Known as the Venice of Bavaria because it is situated at the juncture of The Inn, Ilz and Danube Rivers, Passau has survived endless floods, most recently in 2013.

    Because it rained so much during the last couple of weeks, we could dock directly in town. ..unlike earlier tours which used buses more often because water levels were very low, after a dry, hot summer. I'm glad we didn't come earlier in the season!

    After breakfast we took a 90 minute walking tour, including the breathless Cathedral of St Stephen. Which is built in the Baroque style and has an exquisite interior of white ornamentation and Italian frescoes. The windows are of clear glass because they are smaller than large stained glass windows in Gothic cathedrals and must let in the light.

    The 17,388 pipe organ, the largest in a European Catholic cathedral, is necessary because the heavily ornamented interior absorbs much if the sound. We were surrounded by music during a 30 minute concert at the end of our morning because the organ has five sections: three along the rear wall, one near the altar and the fifth in the ceiling. This was quite a surprise treat from Tauck!
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