Buzacott World Tour 2018

March 2018 - April 2024
An open-ended adventure by Amy Read more
Currently traveling
  • 24footprints
  • 11countries
  • 2,212days
  • 239photos
  • 1videos
  • 33.4kkilometers
  • 29.8kkilometers
  • Day 52

    SAN SEBASTIAN, SPAIN

    May 21, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    I liked it from the moment we stepped in the taxi.

    We are staying in Miraconcha, at an AirBnB overlooking La Concha beach. This huge, old flat has a gigantic terrace, so we can have dinner outside, overlooking the bay. The boys are thrilled because they each have their own bedroom.

    The first day was spent exploring streets of the old town, swimming at La Concha, and climbing Mount Urgull to the Castillo de la Mota, a 12th century fortress with amazing outlooks over San Sebastian and its beaches. Today we tried out Zurriola beach, famous for its surf. The boys rented boogie boards and spent a very happy hour catching (and getting pummelled by) big waves. They came out exhausted, with bellies red from sand-scrape and purple/white skin from the cold (only 16C today). I was happy to laze on the beach and watch a bunch of French high school kids at surf-school. Also simultaneously tried to avoid seeing (but it was so hard not to look, too!) the big, naked man walking up and down the beach, Borat style.

    Buz and I started a few morning runs, which brings back memories of the old backpacking days. Glory days. The only downside to Basque country is how much they like their ham. There’s even a ham museum in Spain. Everything has bread and ham... not my thing. Luckily, Jesse and Zach have been cooking for us at nights, getting to be the talented little chefs. We are contributing to the local economy in our excessive consumption of baguettes and gelatos. It’s a very relaxed, easy place to stay.

    MONDAY NIGHT
    San Sebastián (now aka ‘Ham Sebastián’ to us) has given us just the right amount of playtime. Loads of boogie-boarding at Zurriola, the ‘epic’ surf beach, until our fingers were white & numb with cold. We were bruised, battered, and ‘smashed’ by some rather fierce & large waves that often took us by surprise, breaking before we had a chance to escape. Good fun comparing surfing wounds. Some calmer plays in La Concha beach. Lots of hiking up to El Castillo, ‘rock wall climbing’ on the cliff face, frisbee whenever and wherever (thank goodness it broke). Zach had the clever idea of trying to get the frisbee looped around the finger on the Jesus statue. Good thing his aim isn’t that advanced. Pottered around the old town and generally enjoyed this laid-back city that is surprisingly non-tourist focused, despite the great number of tourists they get. In some ways, that is super refreshing. In other ways, you wish that the stores would open on Sundays and you could buy something from the restaurant that does not have ham. On the bright side, I feel like I’ve become good friends with the check-out lady at Spar who I buy groceries from twice a day. I bet she will miss me as I will her.

    Tomorrow is the train to Madrid, and en route to Reykjavik. Adios, Espana!
    Read more

  • Day 61

    REYKJAVIK, ICELAND

    May 30, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 9 °C

    Iceland! It's a milestone of sorts- 2 months of travel now and no desire to stop.

    At the start of its summer, Iceland is as cold as a chilly winter's day in Brisbane. Think: winter coats, beanies, mittens. We arrived at 3am (almost sunrise here), after almost 24-hours of travel from San Sebastián via Madrid.

    Love it! Although I realise I fall quickly in love with most countries.... except China. Probably a bit premature as we have only been here 2 days, but I've already been googling locum jobs for Buz and I.

    We are eating up Norse mythology and Icelandic history (fascinating). It's such a charming place- colourful box houses, colourful locals, a country with a strong sense of self. It's ridiculously expensive - due in part to their huge financial crisis (which I don't fully understand), but I guess they have fallen on hard times, and tourism is one way of clawing up.

    Some fun facts learned on our walking city tour today:

    Real Vikings never had horns on their helmets. That was likely a historical embellishment from religious figures who likened them to the devil. Which is fair enough as Vikings were actually convicts expelled from Norway who killed / stole from the Irish monks here, as well as enslaving the Irish / Scottish men and taking their ladies. So depending on your p.o.v. they were explorers and settlers, or criminals. Both, actually.

    Iceland was ruled by Denmark until 1944, when they were sneakily able to declare independence because Denmark was busy being under Nazi rule. Denmark wasn't pleased.

    If your baby is an Icelandic citizen, you must give it an Icelandic first and middle name from the official approved Icelandic name registry. And there is no family name. You're known as 'father's name'son or 'father's name'dottir. I would be Amy Anthonysdottir.

    Their black licorice is so yummy (like all the Nordic countries).

    Their tap water is the cleanest in the world, even if it smells a bit like rotten eggs.

    They don't use pesticides here. It's illegal. Essentially Iceland is organic (except for what is imported).

    Electricity is cheap as there's so much geothermal power harnessed.

    There are 2 murders per year, on average. (90% domestic violence). Iceland has one jail ('the little rock') with 64 spots. If it's full, you just wait until it's free to do your time. But if you don't reoffend in a year, then you don't have to go. Unless it's a serious offence, then they kick out someone in jail so you can go in.

    There's no army. Only 3 helicopters in fact, most of which are used to rescue tourists from glaciers anyway. The police don't carry weapons.

    They have been voted the safest country over 5 years in a row.

    They are leading the way in gender equality- with mandatory equal pay for men and women.

    And lot's more!

    Tomorrow we hit the hot pots (geothermal pools) and on Saturday there's a big flea market. We pick up the car on Sunday to play tourist up and down the West Coast!

    SATURDAY NIGHT:
    At 10:38pm it’s still bright outside. Buz and I are taking turns reading The Hobbit (Buz) and snippets from the Iceland Sagas (me) to the boys at night before bed. Tonight is my night off, so I’m listening to Buz reading the Hobbit and lots of laughing. I woke up at 4am last night, but it was bright as day.

    Iceland is taking a piece of my heart. It might be the embarrassingly cringe-worthy but fascinating street dance competition, complete with hand painted poster that said ‘Dance Competition’ and young adults dressed up in their brightest 80’s aerobic gear doing their best co-ordinated group dance moves with oodles of gusto! Jesse said: ‘Its like they are all Napoleon Dynamite.’ I think Buz was secretly worried that I wanted to perhaps befriend them and join one of their groups (I did want that). We are still not sure if it was a serious dance comp, or just a bunch of kids taking the piss. I like to think they were serious.

    We went to the local ‘hot pot!’ That was FABULOUS! A prerequisite: you have to get over yourself enough to shower naked (gender-specific locker rooms) in front of everybody before you enter the pool. They are strict about that. The Icelanders walk around without a care (or piece of clothing) in the world. I tried to dissociate. Anyway, we all survived the prudish trauma and it was super worth it! The pools are ordered in various degrees of hot, fricking hot, and oh-my-god-I-can’t-stand-it hot. Then, once your face is lobster-red, you plunge yourself into the shallow icy-cold ‘pot.’ One of the locals showed us how to do it. You just take a deep breath, exhale, and count to 10. I made it to 3. Zach got his feet in. Jesse kneeled. Ever competitive, Buz got to 30 (counting as fast as he could) and tried not to cry when he got out. (Just kidding if you happen to read this, Buz. You were so manly). Not to be outdone, I made it to 10 the next time. Boys also played in a fun pool with a basketball hoop.

    We have also seen the Viking Longhouse exhibition and visited a photography exhibit of early 20th century Iceland that was really fun to see (& held in the oldest house in Reykjavík). We had fish soup on the Old Wharf, took the lift up Hallgrimskirkja tower for the gorgeous views, and browsed the local handicraft shops. The boys are fascinated by a Norse Mythology shop and want to visit it daily.

    Tomorrow we get a car, with more adventures planned as our circle of tourism widens.
    Read more

  • Day 66

    THINGVELLIR, GEYSIR, GULFOSS (& MT ESJA)

    June 4, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    I'm driving in Iceland!! It's fun.

    The first day with car was a bit cold, drizzly, and cloudy, so we had an easy day driving 30 minutes north to Mt Esja, which we hiked up! Unfortunately the panoramic views were absent after a point due to cloud cover, but it was still gorgeous!

    Afterwards we warmed up at the massive Laugardarslaug pool complex- dipping ourselves in 42C pots until cooked, then plunging into 5C pots. Fun.

    Yesterday the sun came out for our big Golden Circle trip, a must-do on the tourist itinerary. The drive to Thingvellir National Park was like a moonscape. The clouds were dark, gray, and low at that stage so it was an eerie feeling, like you're in the middle of nowhere. But by the time we arrived at the Thingvellir car park, the sun had come out and so had the tour buses! Thingvellir was the site of the first parliament in Iceland, where all the Viking chieftains gathered once each year to settle feuds, make laws (on the Law Rock), etc. It is the site where the Vikings (under pressure from Norway) gave into Christianity and 'converted' a bit reluctantly- the head pagan priest Thorgeir threw his idols over the waterfall. So that was that. AND Thingvellir is the site of the Silfra Fissure- the division of the 2 tectonic plates between America and Europe. The water is unbelievably clear (& cold!!) and you fill up your water bottles and drink straight out of it. Mmmmm! We thought you had to be 12 to snorkel there, so we (Buz!) walked to the info booth with a confident lie ("our 12 & 13 year old sons would like to snorkel") only to be told minimum age is 14!

    Geysir (a geiser) was next - fun to watch it erupt every 5 to 10 minutes.

    Finally, the big waterfall Gullfoss, with a huge rainbow over it. The boys had great fun angling photos to make it look like they could eat rainbows (among other body functions whose photos won't be selected on Find Penguins!!!)

    We stopped by Bru farm on the way home to feed 'horse candy' to the Icelandic horses.

    Quiet day today, lunch and cards in town and a short drive along the waterfront. Tomorrow is another hike to some natural hot springs.
    Read more

  • Day 68

    REYKJADULUR

    June 6, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Rated 10/10 by all of us!! The most gorgeous place- I have no idea why it's not high on the list of tourist traps, but I'm glad it's not!! The lack of tour buses makes this place even more special. We drove about 40 minutes southeast to the cute little town of Hveragerdi. The tourist info centre has an earthquake simulator which mimics what a 6.6 earthquake feels like (they had a recent 6.3 one), and there was CCTV footage of what it looked like as all the bottles fell off the shelf at the liquor store. Interesting.

    A quick trip through the town's main road and we reached the path to Reykjadalur. It's a pretty easy 3km hike up a scenic path. Signs warn you not to step off the path as the underground is pumping with geothermal activity and you never know what you may step into!

    As you clear the 'summit' and wind down a bit you see a waterfall, then pockets of white steam rising all around, here and there. Blue, bubbling ponds. The giveaway smell of sulfur. And then a long stream with a wooden walkway and various entry points. It's not too deep. Depending how far along you go, it gets hotter. There's not much privacy to change into your togs, so lucky it wasn't too busy! (Good old Iceland and its nonchalant attitude to nudity- see Buz's posts).

    Anyway, we spent hours soaking away in these all-natural hot pots. May have to sneak another trip in before we go!
    Read more

  • Day 72

    VIK, ICELAND

    June 10, 2018 in Iceland ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Today's road trip to Vik was a bit delayed due to 'inclement' weather yesterday. We had to turn back and admit defeat after spending 30 minutes driving through the thickest fog I have ever seen. The roads were okay til we got a bit of altitude. Then suddenly we were in complete white-out, literally unable to see clearly 4 meters in front, on winding roads with steep cliff-drops to the right. Knuckles gripping the wheel and windscreen wipers full blast. Life is too short.

    But the sun came out today, and it probably even got up to 10C, an Icelandic summer heatwave.

    Waterfalls galore (Seljafoss & Skogafoss most notably). You can walk behind chilly Seljafoss which was super fun and wet!

    We drove past a glacier to reach Vik, and en route saw puffins on the cliffs (!!!) as well as a dead seal on the beach. The Dyrholaey sea arch, basalt rock formations, cliffs, birds... views were amazing- postcard perfect .

    We drove up to the 1930's church, Vikurkirkja, with views over Iceland's southernmost city. Had a play on the black sand beaches, and (at Jesse's insistence) we hiked out to Solheimasandur- a 3.5km hike (each way) across flat crunchy empty landscape to reach the site of a 1973 US Navy plane crash.

    Huge, great day!!! Beat!
    Read more

  • Day 77

    LONDON, ENGLAND

    June 15, 2018 in England ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    The home of Austin Powers. And a few other historically significant events. 5 nights is nowhere near enough to touch upon ALL the amazing wow that London has to offer. And unfortunately the first few days we all had a bit of mild sore throats which made us less-than-enthusiastic tourists. But we are all good now! We've ticked a lot of boxes: Buckingham Palace, Big Ben (which is sadly covered up for restoration), Westminster, Downing Street, Picadilly Circus, British Museum, Coventry Gardens.... We have been enjoying cups of tea, street performers, souvenir browsing, and general people watching. Buz caught up with his old mate, Johann, who lives in London now. The city is absolutely incredible.

    MONDAY:
    Tomorrow we take the chunnel to Paris, so we have worn out the boys with sightseeing galore- starting off with Tower of London- except the lines were so incredibly long we decided to walk around the perimeter instead. The Crown Jewels are overrated anyway! Crossed over the Tower Bridge and got vertigo watching people sitting on the edge to pose for photos. We walked along the Thames to Blackfriars Bridge, stopping in at Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre & also for a bit of 'culture' at the Tate Modern, which included (among its prized displays): a blank white canvas, egg carton structure with strings attached, a painting of a canvas entirely in black, another of 'soil mounted on canvas,' a gallery of large canvases with a single square painted on each with a comment that this particular artist will only paint 'on themes of the human condition: terror, ecstasy, doom, etc'. I wondered what emotion squares represented. And also thought perhaps I ought to submit a few works! It’s easy to criticise, but truly it seemed to be a case of the emperors new clothes. So we had fun renaming each work: spilled coffee, bad vindaloo meal, etc.

    Our English accents are getting pretty good!
    Read more

  • Day 81

    PARIS, FRANCE

    June 19, 2018 in France ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Bonjour from gay Paris!! Took the Eurostar through the Chunnel and 2 hours later... v'oila! Staying at an awesome apartment on the top (6th) floor of a quintessentially Parisian street in Republique. It was an early 5am London start, so troops were in fatigue mode, but nothing that an hour of PubG Mobile couldn't fix.

    Revived, we mastered the Paris Metro to stroll along Champs-Élysées and climb up the Arc de Triomph. Whole lotta stairs! Think we better get used to that here. The views were worth it!

    FRIDAY:
    Playing tourist in Paris is so easy!

    I'm losing track of days, but no matter. Had a stroll through Nortre Dame cathedral and walked around Left Bank after, admiring the art. The boys chose a few Paris posters to add to their growing collection of cityscapes. Found a park to sit in and have a gelato while listening to a pop-up high school choir with amazing voices sing weird ditties about Ireland that stuck in my head for too long after. Later that night & at the end of our street, we strolled along Canal St Martin, a fantastic long waterway that snakes through Republique. At night everybody emerges with a glass of wine and sits on the edge of the canal for a few drinks. Some people bring instruments and there is spontaneous dancing. Fun vibe.

    Yesterday was 'epic.' We went to the Louvre and walked until our legs hurt. With 5 floors of art, you just can't possibly. However, we saw Mona Lisa, the Venus de Milo, the oldest known sculpture (almost 9,000 years old), mummies, sphinxes... A lot of the French paintings in particular had written histories giving a context around the painting. That was awesome. Napoleon was quite vain.

    Exhausted with tourist fatigue we came home via the local boulangerie which has the best tarts ever! Jesse cooked a vegetarian spaghetti with salad, which we had on the balcony. Spontaneously a huge band started playing on the street below. Within hours more bands popped up, and dancing crowds filled the streets. Drum bands, orchestras... all funky music!! We got our second wind and went out to explore- which culminated in a 11:00pm Eiffel Tower visit! The views of Paris at night were awesome, and they put the sparkly lights on! Rather cold at the top, so hot Nutella crepes after were yummy!!

    The train home was packed with revellers. Happy, drunk Parisians singing loudly. It kept the boys awake & amused long enough to get home. The street party was still going strong (turns out it was a Midsummer festival of music), but we had no problems falling asleep!
    Read more

  • Day 87

    CHAMONIX, FRANCE

    June 25, 2018 in France ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    This town is so cute I could pinch its cheeks (edited for Buz). It's directly out of a fairy tale. In the French Alps, close to the Swiss border. Think Sound of Music meets Beauty and the Beast. The village lies at the foot of Mt Blanc, nestled in a valley full of dramatic landscapes. On the train climb up we saw mountain goats, waterfalls, glaciers, and skinny, long train bridges. The apart-hotel, 'Le Majestic' is this stunning 1920's (??) palace. Look up Grand Budapest Hotel and I swear it's a spitting image. The long hallways are so wide I could lay across them 3 times. I honestly can't see where it ends. There is an incredible urge to cartwheel until I just can't cartwheel anymore. And it feels empty, which makes it even cooler! And more likely that I will cartwheel.

    Photos to follow... this is definitely is a playground I want to explore!!!

    THURSDAY
    Chamonix started off with a bang (literally) in a family paintball match. So. Much. FUN! I've never played paintball, but the boys were so enthusiastic to try we had to give it a go. There is something very therapeutic about shooting your loved ones. A young guy named Teddy set the course up in the woods in Les Tines. Loads of forested ground on which to play: many forts, hiding spots, cubbies... The boys were in seventh heaven. Priceless! We played for 2 hours and went through 3 bags of ammo. Buz seemed to be the overall winner, although Zach and Jesse are pretty good shots. I need to go to the shooting range for a bit more practice, it seems. We all had fun comparing our little bruises after (although the 5psi guns are pretty tame, they still pack a punch).

    Yesterday we took the cable car to Plan Praz. Buz and Jesse were extremely brave and carried on with cable car #2 to Breventz. I'm a bit ashamed to say that neither Zach nor I could manage to coax ourselves on. In fairness, the cable car is suspended between 2 super-high, rocky snow-covered peaks with nothing in between but sheer drops thousands of feet below. It's maybe an 8 minute ride across air. If something were to happen, I can't see a back-up plan. So I justify our cowardice as intelligence.

    After Buz and Jesse returned safely, we started off on an alpine hike to Flegere. AWESOME! The boys are turning into mountain goats and managed the hike brilliantly. Although it's 'level,' there was a lot of ascent/descent in between and a few hours of walking. There were patches of snow to play in, cliffs to cling to, scree to cross, and most of all just stunning scenery which I won't even try to describe.

    We liked hiking so much that we went back up to Plan Praz today and attempted the hike up to Breventz peak. Unfortunately we hadn't realised most of the track after a certain altitude was all snow. Zach only wore his canvas skateboarding shoes which were quickly soaked through. And Jesse hadn't eaten breakfast. But the REAL reason we didn't make the peak was that the boys were having too much fun turning their rain jackets into makeshift toboggans and spent ages 'sleighriding' - every time they got a bit of altitude they would fly back down. Australians and snow- they couldn't resist. And it probably ended up being more fun than reaching the peak.

    Buz kindly took the boys while I repeated yesterday's hike to Flegere solo. Because honestly he was having as much fun as the kids playing in the snow.

    Tomorrow more paintball is planned.
    Read more

  • Day 92

    CHAMONIX, PART DEUX

    June 30, 2018 in France ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Yesterday was another game of paintball with Teddy. The boys were on such a high- they love it. Teddy has won some European paintball matches and he also professionally referees paintball tournaments, so their mutual enthusiasm for the sport was contagious. He brought out his pro-level gun to let us have a try at shooting it. It's like a machine gun and would definitely inflict a lot of pain. He even joined the boys in a match against Buz and I (we lost). Great fun!

    Our visit here also coincides with the 2018 Chamonix Mount Blanc marathon and ultra-marathon. Hundreds of superfit athletes have arrived. Yesterday was the 91km ultra through the mountains. Unreal! They started off at 4am, and at 7pm we were out lining the streets with the rest of the town to cheer them on as they trickled in to cross the finish. It has motivated me to dust off my running shoes. It even inspired Jesse to join the Kids Mini Cross 2km event this morning! I was super impressed with his effort!!! These European kids don't seem to get the idea of a 'fun run.' They sprint like the wind as soon as the buzzer goes off and sprint right on through to the finish! A few of the less fortunate even got tripped over and jumped over after the starting gun. Jesse did great!! He didn't finish first, but he wasn't last either! I was so proud he gave it a go.

    TUESDAY
    Hmmm..... let's see. Since the last entry... We tried white water rafting with our guide, Tom/Bradley (2 personalities: safety Tom / fun Bradley). That was BRILLIANT! We all loved it! I was a bit nervous after the safety briefing- thinking of everything that could go wrong and how I would prefer not to die by drowning in freezing glacier water. We carried the rafts over a rocky embankment that was filled with large bright red/yellow signs warning us in French about Danger and Do Not Enter! The water was churning about (Tom Bradley referred to it as the washing machine). We got in and paddled hard. Within minutes he was yelling 'Bonsai!' -our cue to grab the rope and duck down in the boat. So exciting! The boys got front seat and loved getting splashed and churned. When it got a bit calmer, he let us take turns jumping in to the water and trying to climb back in the boat. We practiced 'crashes' (boys loved that), and went over 3 little waterfalls. At the very end, we got to try swimming in the rapids, trying to reach our boat by swimming hard at just the right time before grabbing the 'rescue paddle of shame.' We all tried it and made it! And perhaps equally fun on the van ride back, Tom Bradley let the boys sit in the front of the van. He turned the French music up loud and drove crazy around the gravel roads.

    Then yesterday morning Buz decided to paraglide! I wasn't worried (much) as it was tandem, but still v glad when he landed safely. We had fun watching from ground level. I don't know if I will be able to watch when he does solo paramotoring!! However, we will cross that bridge later.

    Did a little alpine hike yesterday arvo (Le Petite Balcon Sud). The boys changed into togs so they could take turn pouring jugs of freezing waterfall water over themselves in various challenges, one of them was called the Nut Challenge, which doesn't require further description. No brain, no pain.

    Today we went up Brevent for another mini-hike and play in the snow. I think we could easily spend a whole summer here- soooo much to do!

    FRIDAY
    Tomorrow we leave this wonderland. Sigh. Had another great 4-hour hike from Flegere to Chamonix- most of it was descent, so pretty easy. To make it more challenging (of course you can't just enjoy the silence of an alpine forest) the 3 males devised a 'pine cone fight' so much of the steep descent was spent dodging prickly cones. The weather has now turned and there were some spectacular rain showers and fog yesterday. Of course, we are finishing up our Chamonix days with a paintball match tonight!
    Read more

  • Day 99

    GENEVA, SWITZERLAND

    July 7, 2018 in Switzerland ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    This is a sweet town! (-But it was so hard to leave Chamonix!!!! We were all wistful. Boys made some friends at paintball last night and were invited to stay on for a BBQ after. Great mums to chat with. The boys had such good fun with their new French mates and exchanged emails. Didn't want to say goodbye. Wish we could have met them earlier in our stay! Sweet.).

    Switzerland is famous for clocks, cheese, knives, chocolates, banks, and remaining neutral. Home to the European UN HQ and the European Red Cross HQ, Geneva is definitely a bit 'quiet.' On the 'Top 5 Things To Do' tourist brochure, the #2 best thing was the 'flower clock' (a small hill of flowers with a clock in the middle). We had actually already passed it on an earlier walk without realising it was the second best tourist attraction. Whoops!

    The lake (biggest in Europe) is impressive and I imagine it will be a site for many walks. The chocolate shops will also get a visit from me! And it's quite fun to people-watch. Geneva seems a bit of a melting pot. So, it will be lovely to have a few quieter days before saying Ciao/Adios/Au Revoir/ Auf Wiedersehen to Europe!

    TUESDAY- Today we make our way to London and will stay over at Heathrow before catching our flight to NYC tomorrow. Geneva was full of pleasant surprises- free 4-hour Geneveroule bike rentals which allowed us to explore at leisure, as well as some great beaches to play in, complete with floating docks, floating rock climbing towers, and a restaurant with a massive floating table so you can still eat while in the water.
    Read more