Camino Portuguese

October 2022
A 22-day adventure by Eileen Read more
  • 18footprints
  • 3countries
  • 22days
  • 214photos
  • 9videos
  • 9.9kmiles
  • 9.0kmiles
  • Day 1

    Departure day

    October 3, 2022 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    I really hate to fly. FYI. First hurdle, but I worked through that. Got to the airport snd checked in at the Delta counter. Got the runaround from TSA- long story and not particularly interesting, and then settled in at the Delta Club. (I splurged on business class on the outbound, hoping to not arrive with too big of a sleep deficit.) A short time later, reached for my phone and it was nowhere to be found. Thank goodness for the “Find My” app.- which showed my phone to be somewhere else in the airport. I felt like I was reenacting the kids’ book “Are you My Mother?” as I took my little GPS tracker around to various gate agents, TSA agents, random passengers asking if they could figure out where that spot was that was showing my phone. Of course everyone had a different guess, but consensus was that I would have to go out to baggage claim and come back up to the ticketing level and look for it there. I finally convinced a sympathetic TSA agent to escort me back through the security doors where I finally found it at the Delta desk. So- mild spike in blood pressure but all’s well that ends well. Boarded the flight and let me tell you- It was wonderful. Lie flat seats in your own little cubicle with noise cancelling headphones, remote for the tv, fluffy blanket and pillow, slippers, socks. Yes please! I was in heaven and settling in to all of it when they announced that the plane was broken and it would be delayed at least 2 hours and we may have to get another plane. Rats! And that meant I would miss my connection. So- to say the least it was a rocky start.
    We did end up 2 hours late, didn’t have to change plans, and I ate like a queen and slept like a baby!
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  • Day 3

    And it begins

    October 5, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 64 °F

    Getting ready to start my walk tomorrow. I have laid out a certain structure to my days. As the Camino is really the way of St James, I plan to start each day with a reading from the book of James. As I begin my walk, I’ll listen to a worship playlist in order to be in the right head space to give my day to God. Then I’ll walk without listening to anything, really focusing on being present and open to whatever opportunity presents itself. When I start to tire, I put together a list of albums that I listened to in high school and college- Carole King, Fleetwood Mac, Joni Mitchell, CSN&Y. Listening to that music is like a warm blanket on a cold night and is bound to take my mind off any physical discomfort I may be experiencing. Then I want to listen to more contemporary music. I’ve asked my kids for ideas but if you happen to be reading this and have some newer music that you really like, message me!
    I am walking with just the items I need for the day and having my pack transported from place to place. Some hard core Camino walkers would call this cheating. I call it smart! I took a picture of everything I’ll carry in my daypack. Heavy on the foot care products!
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  • Day 3

    Sights, sounds and tastes of Porto

    October 5, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 72 °F

    Up early-ish to explore Porto. First stop- the Porto Cathedral to pick up my pilgrim passport. I will carry this with me all the way to Santiago, getting it stamped at various churches, cafes, albergues along the way. You need it stamped twice a day in order to get your Compostela when you get to Santiago. Not sure why getting that is significant, but what the heck!
    Spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon just absorbing the city. Then did a food tour late this afternoon. That is such a fun way to experience a city! My daughter Cailin turned me on to it when we traveled together, and ever since it’s something I book in just about every city I visit. Had to dip out early though, to meet with the rep from Portugal Green Walks- the company I used to book the trip. They gave me a bunch of stuff including a nice little book with a preview of each day’s walk. Now getting packed up to get an early start tomorrow.
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  • Day 4

    1st Day Trekking

    October 6, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Started from Matozinhos today up to Vila do Castell. About 12.5 miles in all. It was an easy- ish 1st day with no significant climbs. I did get stuck having made a rookie mistake. I agonized for weeks on how to carry what I needed for the day. I had decided on a hydration pack and a Fanny pack and had done several walks with this combination which worked fine. Then I saw a bigger waist bag with pockets for water bottles and thought that would be the better way to go. So I ordered it but never tried it out before I left. So when i put it on today- fully packed- well, if you’ve seen the scene with Reese Witherspoon in “Wild” you get the idea. My lumbar spine was not happy. So- I have pulled out everything that wasn’t absolutely necessary and I’m gonna try to fashion some shoulder straps to help with support. We’ll see how it goes tomorrow.
    I was in and out of cell reception so could not follow through on my listening plans. I saw and talked to a couple of other pilgrims today. A young lady from Switzerland and Jerry from Dublin- also a recent retiree. Jerry has been adventuring since he retired. Went half way around the world on a cargo ship and has also completed parts of the northern route.
    So far I am really enjoying traveling alone! There is something really freeing about doing what you want when you want.
    It will be an early night for me. Didn’t sleep well last night and want to be fresh for the walk tomorrow!
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  • Day 5

    2nd walking day- Vila do Conde to Espose

    October 7, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    Slept so great last night! And I needed it! I needed to remedy my pack situation so walked 4 miles to the next town to get a day pack and found a great one that will make this experience far less painful! I did have to walk through suburbia to get there but I’m comfortable with suburbia. Too comfortable!,(“Oh look! A Staples!!!”)
    Have now made it back to the Camino and I think it only added @ 2 miles to my walk today. One thing I have learned so far (besides the valuable lesson of the pack) is you never pass up a:
    Bathroom
    Water fountain
    Place to get something to eat
    Which brings me to where I am right now, at a little beach restaurant grabbing a sandwich. I have walked 8.5 miles today and have about that much more to go so seems like a good move!
    The Portuguese eat 4 meals a day except they call the late afternoon one a “snack”. It’s not a snack. So I’m with them for the first 3 but can’t do the 9:00 dinner- mostly because I’m in bed by that time- but really, who wants to eat a big meal at that hour?
    Oh! Also something I’ve learned is - you have to download what you want to listen to! So I did that and besides my worship music early on it’s Carole King day. And I’m sorry fellow Peregrinos, but I just can’t stop myself from singing along and may even doing a little dance step or two!
    Oh- also- things are really cheap here. I am eating a big ol grilled ham and cheese sandwich and a Coke Zero and the tab was under 5 bucks. But I guess the pay is really low, so there’s that…but it’s great for tourists!
    Well-finished my sandwich so I’m off for the next 8 miles.
    I’ll post some pics from my journey so far today.
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  • Day 5

    Friday night- Saturday

    October 7, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 63 °F

    I’ve adopted “Narrow Road” by Josh Baldwin as my theme song for this walk. Take a listen!
    Friday night- Made it to Esposende. It is a really nice resort town. The Main Street is all waterfront and park. Staying in a hotel that I at first thought was really nice. Now I think it is really nice- in an Overlook Hotel kind of way. It has lots of character as old hotels do- but there is definitely a creepy element here.
    I took kind of a circuitous route to get here. There are actually 2 different coastal Caminos. The one I thought I was on was the traditional one, but sometime today I noticed that I was no longer on that one. There was a pilgrim from Norway- Vidar. He and I had been taking turns passing each other and had stopped at the same place for lunch. Anyhoo- he saw me looking confused and told me I was on the Senda Litoral, but I should just stay on that cuz it’s the better one anyhow. Turns out Vidar had already done the Portuguese Camino both there and back. Did the traditional coastal and came back the Litoral- so he knows from whence he speaks. (He has also done the French route. Kind of an over achiever if you ask me). So I stayed on the Litoral but then started to wonder if that was gonna end up being longer so decided to cut over to catch the traditional. But that looked really far so I just consulted Google maps and went where they told me. And it ended up being a really pretty walk even though I was on it all by my lonesome.
    Met a couple of angels today, both named Maria. Neither spoke a word of English but we ended up being able to pantomime our way through. The first 2 pictures are of one of the Marias and Vidar.

    It’s Saturday and I’m about 1/2 way through the day’s walk. I started on the coast but the boardwalk had given way to sand, (no me gusta), plus it’s a hot day and no shade on the litoral. So I switched over to the coastal. So glad I switched. It’s been a beautiful walk, through some towns, some woods…. Right now I’m sitting under a tree in the courtyard of a beautiful church. Seems to be a popular pilgrim resting place. But the route has become quite hilly.
    Ya know- people are generally very kind. I stopped at a little cafe to have a cold sparkling water. The owner brought out a jar of biscuits, honey, jam and a little bowl of peanuts in the shell-(and I had just been thinking yesterday about how much I miss peanuts. It’s true what they say- the Camino does provide!). He filled up my water bottle and stamped my pilgrim passport without my even asking. I have met a couple of girls from Miami, a very nice woman (Silva) from the Czech Republic - she was traveling with a friend but the friend had gone ahead. Then another woman from the Czech Republic, Katerina, who was doing her 1st Camino and was on her own. Her son was an exchange student in Kansas last year.
    I am feeling that things I have been thinking about, reading, and listening to are beginning to synchronize.

    On the playlist today- Simon and Garfunkel. Best lyric- “I get all the news I need from the weather report”. (Only Livin’ Boy in New York).
    The church bells just rang and there appears to be some kind of mass. Time to get movin again!

    The pictures of people I meet I am including for me to remember. But there are some more scenic pictures too!

    So I was gonna end this when I left the church but then a mile down the path was this little canopy area and a guy, Albero, who had a whole little supply hut with fresh fruit, chips, beer, sparkling water- even a little espresso maker. He only asks for donations. So awesome!
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  • Day 7

    Sunday

    October 9, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☁️ 61 °F

    Viana do Castelo to Praia de Ancora
    Another gorgeous walk. Aside from the cow in my hotel room, the town of Viana de Castelo was really nice. Big enough where there would be things to do and had a very “old” feel to it.
    I have walked on every surface imaginable- sand, cobblestone, (LOTS of cobblestone), dirt paths, rock. Thank the Lord my feet are happy in my Hoka Speedgoat 5’s and my injinji toe sock liners!
    Walked awhile with many people today. Almural from South Africa who is currently living and working as a nurse in Dublin because of the economic hardship in her own country. She is walking and grieving the loss of her brother. Mary- a young educational psychologist from the UK- I think she had been crying when I happened on her. Just stayed with her a bit, then let her continue to work through what she needed to. I walked with Martin- also from the UK, who openly shared his take on their political situation, “They traded in one stupid Prime Minister for an even stupider one!”. A couple of Scottish ladies who MUST have been older than me, (although I’m not quite sure since my recent designation as an “elderly lady”.) They had done all 800 kilometers of the French Camino last year. I’m thinking they must have been 75 or so. And then Ernest, who was driving a tractor pulling a wagon full of hay and stopped at the gate to his pasture, got off his tractor, and shouted “Bom Caminho!” He was an amputee, hobbling around on one crutch-(sort of reminded me of my old friend Bob), but he showed me his cows,(vacas) and communicated to me that there was a bar that was open 3 km down the road. (Nothing is open on Sundays, so this was valuable info!)
    And then a lot of walking just by myself, which is also pure joy.
    I’m getting into the rhythm of the day. It’s such a simple beat. Wake up. Eat (COFFEE!!!), walk.
    Tomorrow will mess me up- a short day. Not sure why it booked out that way, but as it is supposed to rain all day, it’s probably a good thing. It will also be my last night in Portugal before crossing over into Spain. My last chance to eat those scrumptious Pastel de Natas, (I think I called them the wrong thing earlier- buen natales, which I’m pretty sure means Merry Christmas in Italian 🙄, soI am now correcting myself!). Also, I talked earlier about that sandwich called the Francosinho. I went to dinner and tried to order it even though it did not sound good to me, but I was gonna take one for the team. The server, who spoke no English looked at me for a long time and then pointed at the burger. I said, “Yeah! That sounds good!”
    All Joni Mitchell playlist today. Favorite verse from my reading of James: 2:12 “Speak and act as those who are going to be judged by the law that gives freedom, because judgement without mercy will be shown to anyone who has not been merciful. Mercy triumphs over judgement.”
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  • Day 8

    The end of Portugal

    October 10, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 66 °F

    Tonight I am in Caminha, Portugal. Just across the Minho River sits Spain. Tomorrow I will get up early-(ish) and find a water taxi, (really a local fisherman lookin to make a few extra bucks) to take me across. There is a ferry, but it is not currently running. Don’t know why, although I got into town early enough to witness low tide and there’s no way even that little ferry would make it across.
    As I mentioned before, it was a very short walk today, but so much to see. The juxtaposition,(Ha! I was hoping to squeeze that word in somewhere!), of modern housing and rural landscape was just really interesting. It was dreary and drizzly for most of the walk and that was reflected in my mood. I saw very few pilgrims on the way- a young German girl with flame red hair, Anna, who was looking for a post office to send home some items in order to lighten her pack. We talked about how little you really need. I brought 3 sets of clothes but I could easily get by with 2. My schedule has been that when I get to where I’m staying I shower, then hand wash what I was wearing and hang to dry. The bulk of what I packed really had to do with the changing weather this time of year. Layers.
    Oh- my friend Darla gave me a recommendation for some more contemporary music to listen to. First Aid kit- sisters from Sweden. I had never heard of them but listened on my walk today and they are wonderful! Beautiful harmonies! Thanks, Darla!
    So I have really loved my time in Portugal. But I have really had a hard time learning any Portuguese. When I first decided to come on this trip I was using Duo Lingo to polish up my Spanish. Then I switched up to Portuguese. Then I found out that Duo Lingo teaches Brazilian Portuguese which is quite different in pronunciation from European Portuguese. Claudia- (my food tour guide in Porto) said that the difference is that the Brazilians move their mouth when they speak while the Portuguese make the sounds farther back in the throat and don’t really move their mouths. Whatever. I didn’t learn either one. My one word of Portuguese that I have learned is Obrigado. Thank you.
    Obrigado, Portugal!
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  • Day 9

    Hola España!

    October 11, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    The day started with a totally bizarre experience. I ran into a woman who I had spoken to at a Brandi Carlile concert in July! Her name is Kay Kay, (yes, really! Her first and last name are the same) and we decided we are destined to be friends. We are planning on getting together after we both get home.
    Anyhow…after that I walked down to the water taxi, plunked down my 6 Euros and boarded the teeny tiny boat to cross the river. Voila! I’m in Spain! And to my sister’s point, I can now ply my fluent Spanglish with wild abandon! I’m walking by the coast again but it’s more forest-y if that makes sense. I’ve cooled my heels somewhat on collecting pilgrim friends. Allowing it to happen naturally instead of trying to collect them like tokens.. But I am seeing what people mean when they talk about a Camino family. You do see many of the same people throughout, and when you run into each other it’s like long lost friends- greeting with a hug. I think it’s sort of like when kids go to summer camp - the friendships form so quickly because of shared experience.
    I ran into Almuria (the South African vía Dublín nurse) yesterday in Caminha. She didn’t have the time off to do the whole Camino so she was heading for the train station to take her through the next couple of stages. Today I saw Silva from the Czech Republic. She had caught up to her friend Hannah and they were making slow but steady progress.
    My body and feet seem to be holding up ok so far. I have made a resolution to stay away from the bakery. Lycra only stretches so far..
    About a mile out of Oia, where I am staying tonight, I came upon a small field with a beautiful black horse. It was overlooking a gorgeous section of coast. I have been looking for a place to leave Katie’s stone, and in my mind’s eye I had been looking for maybe a big field with horses. But with the view from this place I started thinking maybe this was it. I ultimately decided to wait and think about it overnight and if I felt that was it I’ll go back in the morning. Then, as I was looking through my pictures from the day, I noticed that I had taken 4-5 pics of cats. I HATE cats. But Kate loved them. So now I’m thinking it’s a sign. I’m gonna sleep on it.
    I mean- I know that Kate is in a better place already. The stone placing thing is more for me. When I think of her last days I have this image in my head of her all alone, laying prone in that hospital with nobody she loved there to rub her back or hold her hand. I want to replace that image with one of her in a setting in which I know she would have found joy.
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  • Day 10

    Miercoles (Thats Spanish for Wednesday)

    October 12, 2022 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    So. It’s possible I over estimated my ability to converse in Spanish. I noticed it this morning in the breakfast room of my “Charm hotel” (more on that momentarily). There were 4 other women who spoke ONLY Spanish- no English. I clearly had my work cut out for me! One of them asked me where I was from. “Los Estados Unidos”, I replied. “Y tu?”.
    “A Canita” she said. “”Adonde es?” I asked. I had never heard of the country A Canita. Her look clearly screamed, “Stupido Americano!” She said “Sud America!” Then I realized she was saying Argentina.
    So what the tour company called a charm hotel was actually a bed and breakfast type place in this tiny town called Oia. When I checked in the hostess said there was only one restaurante in town for dinner and did not open until 8:00. I decided to forego that and went to a frutería and picked up some apples, chips, and cookies and brought it back to my room. Dinner is served! On the way to the little store I had to cross by this area of the shore where there was a huge pile of seaweed and who knows what else. The stench coming off of that was stomach turning and the flies were all over me. Yuck.
    As I spent more time in this little room I realized that it smelled like my mom’s house. And that is NOT a warm, fuzzy association. So needless to say, I was ready to go this morning.
    A 13 mile walk today. Met a couple of peregrinos. Nathan from Colorado walking with his mother, (such a good boy) and a couple of women- one from Rochester, MN. Many beautiful parts, a good climb or two, (I really like the climbs. Love how strong my legs feel), and an unexpected pleasant surprise coming into the beautiful town of Baiona.. I believe that this is where the ship The Pinta departed from and it was the place that news of the discovery of the New World first came. In fact, today was a national holiday commemorating that event. As I walked into town, I heard shots being fired. Looking around, no one was ducking for cover, so I nervously continued, but then a couple of really big booms that had to have been cannons. So I’m pretty sure they were having some kind of celebration down at the docks. (Can’t get much past this girl!).
    I’m staying in a Parador- the first of 4 that I will stay in on this trip. The paradors are all built in historic structures. This particular one is in an old castle. I fell in love with the Parador system on my previous trip to Spain in 2003. (One of the few things I remember from that trip. I was a hot mess due to my marriage coming to an end. But I digress…)
    I came upon a little group of sheep- all huddled together. Amid the cluster was a small wounded lamb, clearly suffering. All the other sheep were surrounding him as if to reassure and comfort him. There’s a metaphor or two in that scene.
    I used to think that a walking tour of a country would be really limiting in what you would be able to see. But since I’ve been walking I realize just how much MORE I see. I mean I’m pretty sure that I would have just driven by that backyard full of creepy Carnival characters (see below) and not even noticed!
    I did find the place to lay Kate’s stone today.
    The day ended with news that our old grand dog, Bruce Wayne, had crossed over. I will be praying for the Wertish family as I walk today.
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