Bangkok

A blanket of humidity clung to our skin as the dawn light crept through the net screens of our bedroom. Like a tuning orchestra, noise rose and fell as the city began to wake. New and strange calls sung out from trees whilst the more familiar sound of dogs and poultry echoed in the streets. Finally the chatter of people and the call to Buddhist prayer signalling the start of a new day.

We showered sweat and DEET from our bodies, only to sweat again before drying. After a breakfast of eggs and fruit accompanied with an aromatic ginger and lime tea, we set out on foot through the hot streets.

Wandering into the neat gardens of Pom Pra Sumen we met a school teacher who advised us on travel around the city. On his advice we rode a 'tuk tuk' (moped with seating carriage) to Wat Indrawiharn, a Buddhist temple complex known for its 100 foot tall golden Buddha.

The intricate and ornate designs of the temple were beautiful, rainbow colours and an ever present gold catching the light. Locals prayed at the feet of the Buddha, where incense drifted on the thick still air and smaller statues were covered in offerings of gold flakes.

Unfortunately our 'tuk tuk' driver then took us to a local tailor who sought to pressure us into buying clothes. In hindsight this is a common scam that started with the 'school teacher' and involved him, the driver and the tailor, working as a collective to get tourists to part with their money. After a firm 'no' we were taken back to our guesthouse and no harm was done. Yet ironically for the 'tuk tuk' driver we would have travelled further (and spent more money) with him if he hadn't tried to pull this stunt.

Afterwards we went back to travelling on foot, wandering through the streets, including the famous but hugely overrated Khao San Road. Complete with McDonalds, Boots and an Irish themed bar, sunburnt and tattooed tourists wandered past persistent salesmen and scam artists. We saw it, left it and definitely did not buy the t-shirt before moving onto more interesting and pleasant surroundings. Down a quiet lane lined with small food stalls, Kim brought fresh coconut, the seller chopping into it with a large knife to open a hole for a straw to drink the juice. As rain fell with the onset of evening Alex brought skewers of hot marinated chicken, the streets filling with the light and smoke of the food stall cookers.Read more