Stray - Hue to Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP

Onward and northward we climbed up Vietnam's spine, passing through the DMZ (De-Militarised Zone) that divided the north and south of the country during the Vietnam War. Over the Ben Hai River, which complimented this political map, both sides fired bullets, bombs and propaganda at each other. Wu described how the river had run pink with the blood of the casualties, however it was now slate grey, mirroring the sullen skies and showing no signs of its bloody history.

During the war, the Americans' aim had been to drive the inhabitants and Viet Cong away from the northern side of the river and its surrounding area. Between 1966 and 1972 they dropped 9000 tons of bombs, enough for 7 tons of bomb per inhabitant. The ground was still littered with bomb craters and some of the enormous shell casings were displayed, slowly rusting away but still bearing the hallmarks of their owner. Yet despite this frightening display of wanton destruction it was unsuccessful as a strategy.

Rather than give ground to the Americans, the inhabitants constructed the Vinh Moc tunnel system to shelter from the rain of heavy munitions. Using only hand tools the tunnels were completed over a period of approximately 20 months from 1966. Initially digging down to a depth of 10 metres, until the Americans began dropping bombs that could burrow to this depth, the tunnels eventually went as deep as 30 metres. The tunnels housed approximately 60 families and included wells, kitchens, bedrooms and even a maternity room, where 17 children were born over the course of the tunnels' use.

Crouching our shoulders to fit through the narrow tunnels we descended to 13-14 metres underground into the complex. Fortunately our way was lit by electric lighting, something the inhabitants would not have had the luxury of at the time. Cool damp air filled our lungs and our eyes squinted in the dim light as the shuffle of our feet echoed up from the floor. We past crevices dug out of the walls, large enough to crawl into and sit, which had rooms for people and supplies. Other openings veered downwards into deeper sections, where the inhabitants would shelter during bombings. Clambering further through the twisting maze of passages we ascended back out to the surface, where the air was thick with humidity and the daylight temporarily blinded us.

Back on the bus we moved further north, we eventually stopping for the day beside the Dong Suon Lake, within the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park. Eating dinner on the hostel's veranda, which overlooked the lake's still waters, we contemplated the incredible feat of the tunnels whilst looking forward to another subterranean world to come, the Thien Duong Cave.Read more