Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP

Eager to avoid forecasted rain we headed out early for the Thien Duong Cave, the already hot sun flittering between white clouds. After a 50 minute drive, we took a 1km hike along a rainforest pathway, where huge red ants marched purposefully past our eye line and other insects buzzed unseen behind walls of green. Climbing 500 steps, the humidity clawed at our skin as we rose above the tree line and came before the mouth of the cave. A cool breeze emanated from its small black space to kiss our faces, giving no indication of the enormity held within. Thien Duong is nearly 33km in length and filled with stadium spaces but without direction you could easily by-pass the unremarkable entrance. The cave was only located in 2005, by a local collecting firewood, but even then they could not have had any true comprehension of its extent until British explorers later examined it in full.

Tentatively we descended the damp wooden steps, ducking under an overhanging rock to leave daylight behind. We moved out into the black void before our eyes adjusted to the floodlights illuminating the switchback staircase and colossal cavern before us. The ceiling roared overheard and the floor fell away as we shrank deeper and deeper into its depths. Down on the floor we followed the walkway through vast spaces were multitudes of limestone stalagmites and stalactites rose and fell as if to meet each other. Terraces of glass water gave mirror images of the formations above them and shades of ice, rust and granite melted over each other in the ghostly halo of the floodlights.

Whilst our experience of the Kong Lor Cave in Laos, with the boat ride through its 7km haunting darkness had been fascinating, the walkway and lighting at Thien Duong allowed us gain a greater sense of both its scale and detail. That said, there was a moment when the power abruptly cut out and we were plunged into utter darkness for a long minute. Nevertheless despite this and whilst it was only possible to explore 1km into Thien Duong, it was a breath-taking experience and a highlight of our Vietnam adventure so far.

Making it back to the hostel and no rain yet on the horizon we dined on large fresh spring rolls and salad before taking a relaxing plunge in the warm waters of the swimming pool. Unfortunately dark clouds quickly gathered soon after and thunder and lightning drove us into the shelter of our bedroom. Listening to the rain tap against the windows we basked in the memories of a brilliant adventure.Read more