Stray - Phong Nha-Ke Bang NP to Tam Coc

With our arrival in Hanoi due in less than 72 hours, it was time to make some ground on the 500km of road still ahead of us. Passing under the bold white signage of Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park we headed back onto Vietnam’s version of the M1 to journey further north.

On a day where distance was the goal, the world largely rolled past our window. The country was also on the move up and down their motorway as women in conical hats rode bicycles laden with goods whilst men wearing the olive green helmets of the Viet Cong weaved through lines of rumbling lorries on their scooters. Young people also zipped by, some holding the hands of their friends on bicycles to tow them alongside. Out on the wide rice fields, water buffalo and cattle grazed, a group herded by women along a railway line. The bonfire scent of burning crops and the oily taste of exhaust fumes faintly filtering through the bus' air vents.

Large advertisements invited motorists to stop for steamed rice, noodle soup and other local staples but when we attempted an ad hoc lunch stop even Alex’s low standards were put to the test. Food waste, used napkins and empty drink cans littered the floor whilst flies hungrily patrolled over the stained tables. The air smelt of fat and the owner gave us an unwelcoming look before we turned to leave for another restaurant. Wu was apologetic and explained that there were limited options along our route for eating.

Later we reflected with our fellow travellers on the apology and the true feelings behind it (there was interesting but unintelligible interaction between Wu and the owner as we left). Whilst we could have asked Wu about this we have found that his unswerving devotion to customer service means that keeping us 'happy' can prevent an honest answer.

By the time we arrived in Tam Co, the sun was setting over the limestone mountains that have led the area to being described as ‘the Ha Long Bay on land’. We were thirsty, hungry and tired so when Wu suggested we drove back out of town to eat dinner at a ‘local trucker’s stop’, we were less than enthusiastic, particularly after our experience at lunch. Arriving by taxi on a dark road lined with small eateries, where diners ate at small plastic stools under harsh fluorescent lighting, our expectations dropped further. However to our shame and Wu’s credit, the meal of egg and tomato broth, fried spinach, fried chicken with ginger and omelette served with steamed rice was filling and enjoyable.

In the end, it was an example that, just as with anywhere in the world and whatever the cuisine, there are good, bad and down-right dirty restaurants. Satisfied we returned to our hostel, grateful for full stomachs and the knowledge that we were now only 100km from Hanoi.Read more