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Kiwi & Coconut Chronicles
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Kiwi & Coconut Chronicles

Galapagos, Costa Rica, Roatan, Anguilla, Puerto Rico, Jackson Hole, New Zealand Read more
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  • Trip start
    November 5, 2024
    Latitude StoriesKiwi & Coconut ChroniclesTraveler

    Ready to go!

    November 5, 2024 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    Bleary-eyed and too early for the world, but eager to escape the cold and the creeping darkness of these mornings. Soon, the trees will shed their leaves, and the chill will only grow more relentless. Time to trade the gray skies for sunshine, and let the warmth of new horizons lift me from this endless winter.Read more

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    Too many options...

    November 6, 2024 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Touchdown in Quito, the sky wide and clear, a world away from Zurichs winter shroud.

    From above, Quito looks unique—it's built across flat mountains and deep canyons, likely carved by rivers over time, sitting high at 2,800 meters.

    I took a taxi to my hotel, checked in, and then headed out for water and a bite at a small, cozy restaurant. The food was delicious, and I met a friend of the owner, a local guide. She showed me a map and listed some options: a five-hour hike to the mountain peak, exploring historic Quito with its large chapels and museums, visiting the Botanical Garden, or even standing on the Equator line nearby. I could also do half-day trips to nearby lagoons or hike the volcano up to 5,700 meters.

    It’s 7:00 in the morning now. After breakfast, I’ll head out and decide where to start exploring.    Read more

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    Unprepared...

    November 6, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    I left the hotel with a banana and the intention to visit the Historic Centre. But as I rode with Roberto, my cab driver, upon seeing the clear skies I suddenly changed my mind. I asked Roberto to take me to the Teleferico instead to go up Rucu Pichincha, the mountain right here in Quito. Roberto dropped me off around 8 a.m., kindly offering me a mango as a parting gift. I was at the right place but two hours early, so I lay down and enjoyed the sun’s warmth and the stillness around me.

    When the Teleferico opened, I went up to 3,947 meters armed only with my banana and mango, no jacket, walking shoes, water, or food. Hiking wasn’t the plan, but I started anyway. I met fellow hikers — two girls from the UK, a Dutch couple, a German-Argentinian couple, and a Texan. Together, we motivated each other up steep paths and loose sand until I reached around 4,650 meters — just 50 meters shy of the summit (4696). The altitude is challenging, and I feel dizzy; the last bit requires climbing and in my current state, I am not ready for it. So I sit here, enjo the view, and rest until I feel ready for the decent. Then me and my Mango (i ate the Banana) will slowly hike back to the Teleferico hoping to find some water there...    Read more

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    Fruits and Friends

    November 6, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    I’ve had a beautiful first day here in Quito, filled with the colors and flavors of fresh fruit - watermelon, mango, and two bananas. For breakfast, I tried a new fruit: the "tomate de árbol" (tamarillo in English, Baumtomate in German). Sweeter than a tomato, with a peel that’s left aside, it makes a delicious smoothie.

    I’d planned on an easy day, just a stroll through the Historic Centre, but Quito’s skies had other ideas. After a last-minute change of plans, I found myself hiking Rucu Pichincha with only a banana and a mango - It felt both foolish and freeing, a reminder of how much can unfold from a simple shift of direction.

    The hike drained me, and despite my sunburn and a bit of sunstroke, the way down was full of fun. I slid down in the sandy places, hiked in the others, and met again all those I had encountered on the way up - the British girls, the Dutch couple, the German-Argentinian pair, and the Texan. We gathered at a lookout and finished the descent together, drank a beers, piled into a big cab, and headed back to the city for another drink.

    We planned to meet again for dinner, but my headache worsened, and I knew I needed rest. For now, I’ll leave you with a few photos from the hike and some pictures of the Curiquingues.    Read more

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    0.0’0’’

    November 7, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    I woke up with a headache from yesterday’s sunstroke, but after a Dafalgan and breakfast, I was ready to go. Luis, my cab driver, took me to the middle of the World, la mitad del Mundo, where the equatorial line was first calculated by a French geodesic mission in 1736.

    There’s a large monument marking the 'center,' with a bold yellow line on the ground dividing the hemispheres. The museum here dives into Ecuador’s history and the debates around Earth’s shape back then, as well as the scientific missions sent to map the equator. It’s fascinating that, nearly 300 years ago, they calculated this point with remarkable accuracy. They were only 240 meters off, just a short walk north from here. So, while this monument stands proudly, I think I’ll go try to find the true center of the world myself.    Read more

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    Quito fades, Ocean calls

    November 7, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    After visiting the equator, I finally set out to explore the historic center of Quito. A cab ride took me straight to the Basilica, a towering beauty even more striking up close. I snapped a few photos and wandered further, reaching the Plaza de la Independencia. The square had its charm, but the historic center didn’t captivate me as I’d hoped. Museums weren’t calling to me today, so I let the idea of exploring Quito’s history fade and opted for lunch instead.

    Back at the hotel, I decided to dive into necessary preparation: studying for my diving certificate in Galapagos. Now I’m on my bed, going through lessons on the PADI app, brushing up for the underwater adventure that lies ahead. Tomorrow will be an early start - I need to leave the hotel at 3:30 a.m So this is my last entry from Quito. Next time, I’ll get to show off the Galapagos Islands! 🙂    Read more

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    Touchdown in Paradise

    November 8, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Boarding pass ✅
    Transit control card ✅
    Cash for the Galapagos entrance fee ✅

    Getting up at 3 a.m. was a small price to pay for what’s unfolding already. After touchdown at the Galapagos airport, where I met our guide and the group for the boat cruise, we took a private bus straight to the port. The wildlife welcomed us even before we’d left the dock. A sea lion, completely unbothered, slept sprawled across a bench. Iguanas sunned themselves nearby, and flocks of birds circled overhead - pelicans among them, along with others I couldn’t yet name.

    After a quick briefing, we found our rooms. I have a beautiful cabin to myself, which feels like such a luxury.

    I have a bit of time before lunch and our first excursion this afternoon: a sandy beach walk followed by snorkeling. We’re expecting to see tortoises and, if luck’s on our side, flamingos. Sunscreen is a must today - I’m definitely not making the same mistake again. 😅    Read more

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    Blue-footet Boobie (Blaufusstölpel)
    Juan, our guideBlue-footet Boobies (Blaufusstölpel)Blue-footet Boobie (Blaufusstölpel)Blue-footet Boobies (Blaufusstölpel)SharkMarine IguanaMarine IguanaYellow warblerSally Lightfoot crabSally Lightfoot crabSally Lightfoot crabBlue-footet Boobie (Blaufusstölpel)2PelicanHeronBlue-footet Boobie (Blaufusstölpel)FlamingoFlamingo

    Black Dragons and Blue Feet

    November 8, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    This afternoon, we landed on Bachas Beach for some animal spotting. Sadly, we missed seeing the turtles themselves, though we did find their tracks leading from the beach into the sea. But the experience more than made up for it - we spotted so many birds, and even a flamingo! My personal favorites were the blue-footed boobies and the marine iguanas, which really do look like little black dragons.

    After a short, refreshing swim in the sea, we headed back to the boat, where a curious sea lion paid us a visit. Tonight, I’ll head to bed early while the captain navigates a seven-hour journey through the night to a northern Galapagos island. Tomorrow’s adventure awaits!    Read more

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    short-eared owl
    2short-eared owl and its preyswallow-tailed gullswallow-tailed gull protecting her eggred-footed boobyred-footed booby chickred-footed boobyfrigate bird chick

    Snorkeling inside a Vulcano

    November 9, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    During the night, our captain guided us into the flooded crater of Genovesa Island—a spot you’ve got to see from above! Check the map on FindPenguins!

    This morning, we set off on a hike across Genovesa. The island’s remoteness keeps it free of predators, making it a haven for bird chicks. We were able to get surprisingly close to the birds and nests, it felt surreal. Highlights included sightings of the red-footed booby, nazca booby, frigate bird, swallow-tailed gull, and even the elusive short-eared owl! Small marine iguanas were scattered everywhere, adding to the wild charm.

    After a short break, we moved to the other side of the crater for snorkeling. And here’s where I got lucky: I spotted a hammerhead shark and a manta ray gliding just a few meters below me, alongside a parade of vibrant fish. My personal favorite? The bumphead parrotfish! Unfortunately, I don’t have an underwater camera, so if you’re curious, you’ll have to Google it for the full effect.

    As I write this after dinner, we’re already heading to our next island. More to come tomorrow!    Read more

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    2No hat? No problem!
    sea lion puppysea lion puppy and mothermale galapagos iguanafemale galapagos iguanalava lizardmale galapagos iguanamale galapagos iguanasea lion and galapagos iguanafemale galapagos iguanamale and female galapagos iguanamale and female galapagos iguanamale and female sea lionmarine iguana

    Alien Planet Plaza

    November 10, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    This morning, we touched down on the Plaza Islands, another world entirely. Though stepping onto North Plaza is off-limits, we explored South Plaza - and it felt like paradise from another galaxy. Picture this: a landscape blanketed in red plants, cacti spaced out like sentinels, and hundreds of iguanas roaming everywhere. Most of the iguanas here are galapagos iguanas, one or the three sorts of land iguanas in Galapagos. The bright yellow scales of the males, mark them as ready for mating.

    Plaza Island was a photographer’s dream - each corner more surreal than the last. And down along the rocky shoreline, sea lions lounged lazily, with adorable pups occasionally peeking out. Watching them was a treat, but our visit was short. Galapagos time slots are tight, and before we knew it, we had to leave this alien paradise behind.

    Now, our “spaceship” sails to the next island, ready to land on yet another world.    Read more

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    baby sea lionbaby sea lion and motherHawkbaby sea lionSanta Fe iguanasea lion on the rockwhite-tipped sharks chased by a sea lion

    Swimming with a Sea Turtle

    November 10, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Today we landed on Santa Fe Island, the only place on Earth to spot the rare Santa Fe iguana. These unique land iguanas make up the second of the three types in the Galapagos, with the elusive pink iguana being the last, found only on a remote volcanic crater that’s off-limits to visitors. So with todays sightings, I’ve officially met all the iguanas I’ll get to see on this trip.

    Our hike on Santa Fe brought us close to not only the iguanas but also playful sea lions - one even had a go at a co-travelers backpack! Afterward, we snorkeled in the islands bay, where the underwater world amazed us again. We spotted white-tipped sharks, and at one point, a sea lion darted through the water, playfully chasing them. Stingrays glided along the seabed, but the highlight? Swimming with a sea turtle for the first time in my life. It was huge - its shell as big as a persons torso - and had survived a shark attack, missing one of its front flippers. Watching it move gracefully despite its injury was a humbling sight.    Read more

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    one of the sinkholeson top of a sinkholeone of the sinkholeslava tunnelLonesome Georgdifferent species of giant turtle

    Walking Among Giants

    November 11, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Today we set foot in Puerto Ayora, the largest town in the Galapagos, on Santa Cruz Island. Our first stop were two giant sinkholes which formed during volcanic activities on the island. I was stunned from the size of those holes and fascinated by the beautiful flora inhabiting those craters.
    This sight was then soon replaced by our next stunning stop at a giant tortoise reserve, where these incredible creatures roam freely. The reserve doesn’t feed or confine them in any way; it simply ensures the native plants support the tortoises diet and that predators are kept away. This allowed us to observe them in their natural habitat, watching them move and eat. It was fascinating to see how massive and unbothered they were, even with people nearby.

    After lunch at the reserve, we explored a massive lava tunnel created during the last volcanic eruption. From there, we took a short bus ride to the Darwin Research Center. The center tells the story of Darwin’s work, along with the legacy of Lonesome George, the last of his species, and highlights their efforts to protect and restore giant tortoise populations. Originally, 15 different species of these tortoises were known to live on the Galapagos islands, each on its own island; sadly, four have already gone extinct, making the center’s work crucial for conservation.

    On our way back to the port, we walked through the streets of Puerto Ayora, a city of about 12‘000 people. We stopped for some souvenir shopping, and, naturally, a cold beer to end the day.    Read more

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    me enjoying this beautiful morningmarine iguanas become colorful when ready for matingbaby sea lionmarine iguanas fighting for territorymarine iguanas fighting for territorywinner on top!sea turtleblue-footed boobyfrigate birdsea turtlegalapagos penguingalapagos penguinThis "sand" is made from corals which makes it extremely soft. It looks like clouds in the waterme enjoying this beautiful eveningmy american friends 🙂

    Pirate Legends

    November 12, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Floreana Island has a history as wild as its landscapes. Pirates first used it as a hideout as early as the 1500s, making the island their stronghold in the Galapagos. During the 16th and 17th centuries, English pirates lurked here, using Floreana to ambush Spanish treasure ships passing through South American waters. In the highlands, they found shelter in caves next to the island’s only freshwater source, with a perfect view of the sea below. While exploring, you can still find remnants of their stay scattered around the island.

    We didn’t find any pirate relics ourselves, but we did stop by the island’s legendary post office: a simple wooden barrel where travelers leave letters and postcards. The next visitor headed near your address picks it up and delivers it personally - a quirky tradition that’s kept alive to this day!

    If I were a pirate, Floreana would be my first choice for a hideout. This island is stunning, with a string of unique beaches - white, red, and even green sands - and wildlife at every turn. Today, we swam with turtles, sea turtles, and even Galapagos penguins for the first time!

    The day was full of adventure from start to finish: morning kayaking, deep-water snorkeling over thousands of colorful fish around Isla Campeón, and one beautiful beach after another. Floreana truly has it all!    Read more

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    Albatross
    AlbatrossAlbatross form couples only once and stay together the entire life.Albatross female (left) and male (right)Albatross chickAlbatross chick, feet up for thermal regulationAlbatross chickAlbatross chickbaby sea lions getting some experience im shallow waterfemale espanola lava lizardmale espanola lava lizardbaby sea lionmale marine iguanafemale marine iguanasnazca boobynazca boobynazca booby3

    Prince of the Clouds

    November 13, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today we arrived at Isla Española, and despite the intense heat, we set off on a two-and-a-half-hour walk under the blazing sun. Every step was worth it though, as we caught sight of the elusive albatross, often called the Prince of the Clouds (originally by Charles Pierre Baudelaire). This majestic title is rooted in the albatross’s remarkable ability to glide over vast distances with almost no effort, riding air currents above the ocean for hours without flapping its wings. With wingspans that can reach over three meters, they use the power of the wind to navigate with a grace that few other birds can match, appearing like royalty in the sky.

    Our walk also brought us close to some familiar Galapagos residents: the nazca boobies, with their striking black and white feathers and curious gazes. Near the shore, young sea lion pups were playing in the shallows, taking some of their first clumsy dips in the water. Watching them was pure joy - they flopped and splashed around, getting a feel for the waves and their own weight.

    This afternoon, we’re in for more exploration: snorkeling and walking along different beaches on Isla Española. I can’t wait to dive in and see what other wonders the island has in store.    Read more

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    East Complete, West Awaits

    November 14, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Today marked the last day of my first week in the Galapagos, and also my final day aboard the TipTop V on which I would explore the eastern islands. We spent most of the day in the water, snorkeling and sharing unforgettable moments with playful sea lions. They swam right up to us, close enough to almost touch. At one point, they were even sniffing our fins underwater - a beautiful, if slightly nerve-wracking experience! We kept our distance and respected their space, but it was amazing to be so close to these curious animals.

    Around San Cristobal, we were also treated to more incredible landscapes and bird sightings. For once, I decided to leave my camera on board and simply take it all in without the extra weight. So, no amazing photos from today, but the memories will stick with me.

    Tomorrow, I’ll transfer to a new boat, the TipTop II, which means a whole new crew and travel group. Luckily, Juan, our guide, will be coming with me - he’s truly excellent and has made this week even more special. It’ll be tough saying goodbye to the American friends I’ve made here, as they’re heading back to Quito and then home. Fingers crossed that one day we all meet again and let‘s hope the next group is just as great.    Read more

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    TipTop II - the new boat
    Mangrove forresteagle raywhite-tip sharkalpha male sea lionsea lion puppy and mother

    Switching Decks

    November 15, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    This morning began with a serene farewell excursion aboard the TipTop V. We ventured into a mangrove forest with waters so shallow and calm that we could clearly spot eagle rays gliding below, whitetip sharks weaving through the channels, and turtles surfacing for air - all from the comfort of our little boat. It was the perfect, peaceful way to close out this chapter of the journey.

    Afterward, it was time to head to the airport with my old group. Saying goodbye to them was bittersweet; we shared so many incredible experiences together. With goodbyes said, I spent some time waiting for the new group to arrive, wondering who I’d meet next.

    By the afternoon, I was back at the port, ready to board the TipTop II - my home for the next week. We wasted no time and set out on our first excursion to Islote Mosquera, a small islet with nothing but a wide, sandy beach. Sea lions and their puppys were everywhere. It was the perfect spot to relax, soak up the sun, and ease into this new phase of the adventure.

    Here’s to another week of exploration and discovery in the Galapagos    Read more

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    2The dots on the penguins belly are unique for every individuallave cactus1

    The Floor is Lava

    November 16, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Today, we stepped onto San Salvador Island, where the land itself tells the story of fire and transformation. We walked across a massive lava flow, formed roughly 150 years ago - a blink of an eye in geological terms. The dark, rippling rock stretched out before us, frozen in time, showcasing the powerful patterns created as molten lava cooled and solidified. The textures were captivating, from smooth, glassy surfaces to jagged ridges, all bearing the marks of their fiery origins.

    Amidst this stark, volcanic desert, life finds a way. We spotted lava cacti, resilient plants that thrive in these harsh conditions. It was fascinating to see this unique species clinging to the hardened flow, turning barren rock into a new ecosystem.

    After exploring the lava field, we returned to the boat, grabbed our snorkeling gear, and headed back to San Salvador. This time, we approached the lava flow from the water, snorkeling along its edge. Although the flow itself wasn’t as visible beneath the surface, the waters were teeming with life. Schools of colorful fish darted around us, creating a vivid contrast to the dark volcanic rock below.

    It was a day of contrasts - hot, solid stone underfoot in the morning, and the cool, lively ocean in the afternoon. San Salvador showed us how even the most desolate landscapes can harbor beauty and life.    Read more

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    female and male oystercatchers

    Rusty Shores and Pink Flamingos

    November 16, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    This afternoon, we set foot on Rabida Island, a rusty gem in the Galapagos, home to one of the most striking sights in the archipelago: a vivid red beach. The color comes from oxidized iron mixed into the sand, giving it a unique, rusty hue that glows beautifully under the sun. It’s unlike anything I’ve seen before.

    After exploring the beach, we made our way to a small lagoon tucked behind it. There, we were treated to a gathering of flamingos. The Galapagos flamingos are the smallest species in the world, but they’re also the brightest pink. Watching them move gracefully through the water, filtering food with their curved beaks, was pure magic.

    As the day drew to a close, we stayed on Rabida to watch the sunset. The golden light reflecting on the red sand was a perfect way to end the day.

    Now it’s time to rest as the captain navigates us to our next destination through the night. New adventures await tomorrow, and I can’t wait to see what they’ll bring.    Read more

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    marine iguana
    marine iguanamarine iguanamarine iguanacormorantsea lion alpha malesea lionsea lion puppiessea lion puppiessea lion puppiesmarine iguanamarine iguanamarine iguana1dead sea turtle

    Evolution on Display

    November 17, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Last night, the captain skillfully navigated our ship around the main island, bringing us to Isla Fernandina, the youngest in the Galapagos, at just 400,000 to 500,000 years old. Stepping onto this island felt like walking through nature’s history book, untouched and raw.

    This was our first chance to encounter the flightless cormorant, a bird that was once capable of flight but has since adapted uniquely to life on land. Its wings, now small and stunted, are a fascinating testament to evolution in action. We were lucky to spot one cormorant during our visit, perched by the rocky shore.

    The island was also teeming with marine iguanas, sprawled across the black volcanic rocks in such abundance it felt like the entire island was alive.

    After visiting Fernandina by foot, we also snorkeled close to shore, where the underwater world offered a unique perspective on these iguanas. Watching them move gracefully beneath the waves was mesmerizing - they use their tails to propel themselves through the water and cling tightly to rocks while feeding, even in strong currents. Visibility was poor, but we were fortunate to see two marine iguanas feeding on algae before heading back to the ship for lunch and continuing our journey.    Read more

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    sea turtle in the water
    cormorant chickpelicanpelicanpelicanpelicanmangrove forest

    A quiet Paddle

    November 17, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    This afternoon, we embarked on a peaceful kayaking tour through the mangrove forest in Bahía Elizabeth. It was a gentle adventure, more about soaking in the tranquility of the surroundings than chasing wildlife.

    That said, we did spot a few wonderful creatures along the way. A cormorant chick greeted us en route, and once inside the mangroves, we saw turtles gliding beneath the surface, penguins darting by, and pelicans resting on the branches above. The calm waters and dappled sunlight filtering through the trees made for a serene and beautiful atmosphere.

    It wasn’t an eventful day, but sometimes, that’s exactly what you need. Just an easy, relaxing afternoon in nature’s embrace.    Read more

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    cormorant
    cormorantcormorantcormorantcormorantcormorant nestingcormorant chickcormorantcormorantlake Darwinland iguanaland iguanaland iguana

    Stunted Wings and Majestic Rays

    November 18, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    Today, we explored two distinct locations on Isabela, the largest island in the Galapagos, shaped by six massive shield volcanoes that fused together over time. This island alone makes up more than half the landmass of the archipelago.

    The first hike was to see giant tortoises and land iguanas. Our second hike took us up to the rim of a caldera about 100–150 meters above sea level to see Darwin Lake, a unique saltwater lagoon nestled in an ancient volcanic crater. Named after Charles Darwin, the lake is not directly connected to the sea but is thought to be filled through underground fissures. Despite the fascinating geology, the view didn’t quite live up to expectations, so back at the boat we grabbed our snorkeling gear, ready to dive into the vibrant underwater world. And wow, did it deliver! Beneath the surface, we encountered baby blacktip sharks gliding gracefully in the shallows. Even more impressive were the sea turtles. Six of them in one spot, peacefully grazing on algae-covered rocks, allowed us to observe their ancient, deliberate movements up close. Adding to the excitement, playful sea lions darted around us. The highlight, though, was a majestic eagle ray gliding past with a wingspan of about one meter. Its elegant, almost ethereal movement left us mesmerized.

    The Galapagos continues to surprise and amaze with every new stop. As we navigate to our next destination, I’m left with a deep appreciation for how these islands blend raw geology with thriving ecosystems. The adventure continues!    Read more

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    Hawk
    HawkHawkHawkHawkbaby sea lionpelicanmarine iguanamarine iguanablue-footed boobiesblue-footed boobies

    The Iguana Experiment

    November 19, 2024, South Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Today we explored the northwestern side of San Salvador Island. This is the very island where Charles Darwin made his first key observations that later shaped his theory of evolution. He studied the marine and land iguanas here, famously tossing them into the water to see how they responded. While the land iguanas drowned, the marine iguana scrambeled back to shore.

    Our visit brought Darwin’s observations to life as we encountered iguanas, hawks, lounging sea lions, and the ever-charismatic blue-footed boobies. But what truly captivated me was the island’s rugged coastline.

    Here, the waves are relentless, crashing against the volcanic rock with such force that you can see the land slowly giving way. The lava formations tell a story of constant change: jagged cliffs carved by centuries of waves, tunnels formed as the sea erodes weaker spots in the rock, and blowholes that send water shooting into the air like geysers.

    Standing there, watching the endless rhythm of the waves, I was reminded that these islands are still evolving. The same lava that once erupted from the Earth’s core is now being shaped by the ocean’s patient, unyielding hands.    Read more

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    Canvas of Cactus and Light

    November 20, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today we explored Dragon Hill on Santa Cruz Island, a quiet but absolutely beautiful landscape of rugged terrain with green cacti and dry bushes. A nearby lagoon shimmered under the afternoon sun, its still surface becoming a canvas of cactus and light, reflecting the arid beauty surrounding it. Flamingos waded gracefully in the shallows while land iguanas basked along its edges. As the day turned golden, the area revealed itself as a perfect spot to watch the sun slip below the horizon.

    Before this tranquil moment, we had an incredible snorkeling adventure, easily the best so far. The water was alive with surprises: sleek sharks gliding past, stingrays hovering above the sandy bottom, and a curious eel peering from its rocky hiding spot. For the first time, I spotted an octopus, its ability to blend with the reef absolutely mesmerizing.    Read more

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    Love Under Pressure

    November 21, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Today, we returned to familiar ground, visiting the Giant Tortoise Reserve and the Tortoise Research Center on Santa Cruz Island. This time, we were lucky to witness two giant tortoises mating - a fascinating but slightly uncomfortable sight. The male was significantly larger than the female, and the weight difference looked almost painful for her. We learned that this size disparity can even deform the female’s shell over time due to repeated mating.

    It’s always incredible to observe these ancient creatures in their natural habitat and learn about their biology. One of the most intriguing aspects of giant tortoises is how the temperature of their nests determines the sex of their hatchlings - a phenomenon known as temperature-dependent sex determination. At the Darwin Research Center, scientists use this to their advantage. Eggs incubated above 27.5°C yield female tortoises, while those incubated below 26°C produce males. This precise control helps maintain the population balance for conservation efforts.    Read more

  • Latitude StoriesKiwi & Coconut ChroniclesTraveler
    frigate bird
    frigate birdfrigate birdfrigate birdfrigate birdblue-footed boobyland iguana1sea lion2The placenta on the left of the mother is proof that this baby sea lion was born this very morning.sea lionsea lionswallow-tailed gull

    Frigate Courtship Spectacle

    November 22, 2024 in Ecuador ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    This morning, just before breakfast, we embarked on our final excursion in the Galapagos, landing on North Seymour Island. Though small and close to the airport, the island is brimming with wildlife, especially birds. The true stars of the morning were the frigate birds.

    Male frigate birds are a spectacle during mating season. They inflate their scarlet throat pouches into bright, balloon-like displays to capture the attention of passing females. To enhance the effect, they drum on their pouches with their beaks, creating a deep, resonant sound - a show of strength and allure in the competition for a mate.

    It was a fitting end to the cruise, witnessing such an iconic ritual of the islands. Next week, I’ll be dedicating my time in the Galapagos to earning my diving certificate. There probably won’t be many photos or adventures outside the water, but I’m excited for what awaits beneath the surface!    Read more

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