Satellite
  • Day 126

    Withering heights

    March 2, 2019 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    Popped into central Sicily for my last night before next workaway. One of the drawbacks of spending the night up there is the 5 degree drop in temperature making for a chilly night.
    The Siculi, an ancient Sicilian tribe,established this town which became a centre for the pre-Hellenic cult of Demeter and Kore (Persephone.) It sits on a plateau dominating the valley of the Dittaino, northeast of Caltanissetta.
    Originally Henna and then Enna, it was under Greek influence, first from Gela (7th century BCE) and later from Syracuse, after which it fell into the hands of the Syracusan tyrant Dionysius I in about 397 bc. After a brief period of Carthaginian rule, it passed to the Romans in 258 gaining notoriety as the HQ of the great Sicilian slave revolt (134–132).
    From the highest point, nearly 1000m ASL, most of the Sicilian cost can be surveilled; making it an important stronghold in the Middle Ages. Held by the Saracens from 859 until 1087, it was then taken by the Normans. Its medieval name Castrogiovanni, derived from the Arabic Kasr-Yani, is a corruption of the Latin Castrum Hennae. A favourite residence of the emperor Frederick II of Hohenstaufen and of Frederick II and III of Aragon, it was among the first Sicilian cities to rally to the Italian cause in 1848 and 1860. In 1927 it resumed its ancient name.
    When I tried to park in one of the streets, a man started gesticulating wildly indicating I should follow him. Intrigued, I did; wondering what the sting would be. He led me up to a big free parking spot where I could remain undisturbed. Then he swung open the boot of his little car to reveal bags of nuts and things and insisted I buy a kilos worth of something - for 10 euros. Since it was the same price in supermarkets, and I appreciated his marketing effort, I did so. Nuts anyone?
    + From the summit you can clearly see the Rocca di Cerere; the foundations of the Temple of Demeter on its little promontory.
    + The Castello di Lombardia is an important example of military architecture in Sicily. 6 of its original 20 towers remain, dominating the town at the top of sheer cliffs. It is said that whenever it exchanged hands throughout history it was inevitably through treachery not force.
    + rather splendid plaque for the Carabinieri stuck on one wall. Move over Carmen Miranda .
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