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Rising Sun Tour April 2025
  • Pam Smith

Rising Sun Tour April 2025

A 22-day adventure by Pam Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 3, 2025
    Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Rising Sun Tour

    April 3 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Following in the footsteps of their forebears in 1992!, Escort Master Carol-sama and Ando-san ventured to Nippon after the Japanese Kanji characters for "Japan". We toured the largest, central and most populous island of Honshu, specifically
    - Osaka’s renowned vibrant street food scene,
    - Hiroshima’s UNESCO heritage listed Peace Memorial Park and Atomic Bomb Dome,
    - Miyajima’s 'floating' giant Torri Gate and deers,
    - Bennese Naoshima Art Island,
    - the Nakahechi Trail, the sacred Imperial Route of the Kumano Kudo - 68 kms,
    - Tokyo (formerly Edo) capital of Japan with a metropolitan population of c. 37 million compared to Australia's total of c. 27 million (2025)
    - Hakone, the mountain retreat with its hot springs, traditional ryokan inns and art museums, and
    - Kyoto, considered the cultural capital of Japan, embodying the concept of Ukiyo or 'the floating world'.

    'Let's rocket!' said Astro Boy, for Zen 'satori' (enlightenment). 'Kanpai' (Cheers!)

    The truth is, like many Australians my age, I grew up in the shadow of the Japan of my parent’s generation. Japan is now the world’s fourth biggest economy, Australia’s most important security partner in Asia and has a female Prime Minister.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Namba, Osaka

    Apr 3–6 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Anth kindly dropped us to the wharf for our 9+ hour flight to Osaka arriving to catch a longish local train and walk via decorated laneways to Iam Hotel in the Namba district. It was so different - very clean with neat, civilised citizens epitomised in the ‘salaryman’ image, designated smoking areas and novelty bidets. We enjoyed the local Oyster Balls from a street stall for dinner postponing local croissants.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Osaka Castle, Osaka

    April 4 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    A very dainty breakfast before setting off for Yodo River and a Sakura (cherry blossom) Walk. Interesting stalls - everything wrapped individually in plastic! The delicate blossoms matched the ultra polite and respectful crowd - ‘kitty girls’, hired kimono wearers and trendy young men. We visited Osaka Castle and viewed it from the Blue Bird Roof Top Terrace with a glass of bubbles. Then I met my ninja covert operative.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Sakura in Osaka

    April 4 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Nishinomaru Osaka Park featured lacy ‘kitty girl’ ensembles and Tik Tokers creating their uploads. A whistling police push bike rider heralded an ambulance navigating a pedestrian walkway. The Castle was framed by the magical cherry blossoms and suddenly we became aware of the beauty and delicacy of Japan’s Sakura Season in March/April. The parallel fragility of ‘everlasting peace’ was to be a recurring theme.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Hozenji Yokocho Alley, Osaka

    April 4 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    After a massage we headed along city streets with decorative manhole covers marvelling at the high rise blocks juxtaposed with traditional houses. Bright arcades led to a traditional narrow alley called Hozenji Yokocho for Chicken Karee - fried chicken on rice with a sweet curry sauce and shallots. The restaurant had a gorgeous, quaint atmosphere with many rules notably ‘Do not blow nose loudly’ and ‘Do not put anything on the counter’. A very authentic experience and an outstanding day.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Hozenji Temple & Doguyasuji, Osaka

    April 5 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    A delicious authentic Japanese breakfast (bow) then off to C17 Hozenji Temple. Destroyed in WW2 except for Fudo Myo, legend has it the statue was visited by an older woman who had lost everything in the war. She could only offer water to Fudo Myo, the ‘Immovable One’ who represented discipline and moral character, and her wish came true. He is one of the Five Bright/Wisdom Kings of Buddhism and Shintoism. We tossed water on the mossy figure and I made my wish for peace.

    Off to the eight level Don Quijote Department Store, with a ferris wheel shopfront we’d seen the night before, selling everything from food to sex toys, all wrapped in plastic. Then on to the Doguyasuji, the famous ‘Kitchenware Street’ of Osaka, a covered arcade and culinary paradise. So began the search for Katsushika Hokusai’s woodblock print ‘Under the Wave off Kanagawa’ (1830-2) Showa Japan crockery.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Americamura & Hozenji Temple, Osaka

    April 5 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    On the way to modern Americamura or America Village we passed through a train station Art Park, a wonderful opportunity for art education. Famous artworks were replicated on ceramic tiles donated by the Art Gallery of Chicago. Edgy Americamura made me wonder what the Japanese really thought of the Allied Occupation Forces post WWII. We walked back via the busy but very atmospheric Hozenji Temple to revisit it in the dark before a delicious dinner of sashimi, edamame and tempura at a local restaurant. Such a unique blend of Japanese and Western influences today.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    A-Bomb Site & Hiroshima Castle

    April 6 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    We were given bento boxes for our early journey wrapped in traditional cloth. The Bullet Train platform featured a Women-Only car. Our 90 minute 300km/hr ride was silent - Japan has had this for 50 years! A tourist bus using our local Suica card to the A-Bomb Stop took us directly opposite Hotel No Yadi Aioi and the Atomic Dome - very sobering! We were greeted by a tiny immaculate elderly lady, likely a survivor - she was warm and welcoming. We must leave our boots at Reception and wear slippers. Ours was a 10 tatami mat room with low table and chairs, and folded futons for sleeping - simple living. Out to Hiroshima Castle built by Samurai in 1590 where we saw a wedded couple in traditional dress - he holds a knife, a lucky charm.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Ota River, Hiroshima

    April 6 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    It was Sunday in Hiroshima and everyone was enjoying the sunshine and Sakura by the Ota River against the ever present background of the A-dome. A Kendo Tournament was on - a Japanese martial art using bamboo swords and protective armour blending physical and spiritual aspects of technique and discipline. A local shrine had traditional entertainment which attracted quite a crowd and food stalls. The Temple had some families attending in traditional dress. We paused at an Australian eucalyptus tree that survived the atomic bomb - classic Aussie strength!Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Hiroshima Memorial Hall & Peace Park

    Apr 6–7 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We visited the Hiroshima National Peace Memorial Hall built in 2002 designed to convey the truth of the tragedy of Hiroshima’s 1st atomic bomb of WWII on August 6, 1945 and express Japan’s desire for genuine and lasting peace - the clock shows 8.15am. The Peace Memorial Park included the Cenotaph for A-Bomb Victims and The Flame of Peace burning until all nuclear weapons are destroyed. The Children’s Peace Monument commemorates the children lost to the bombings of Hiroshima and Nagasaki where I proudly laid my origami crane in an offering of peace. My Father had been in the Occupation Force in Nagasaki, the site of the 2nd atomic bomb.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Hiroshima Rest House & Peace Museum

    April 6 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    We toured the Hiroshima City Peace Memorial Park Rest House now also the Tourist Information Office. One survivor, the late Eizo Nomura, wrote in his memoirs how he had gone to the basement to collect his papers for the days work and survived. This basement area has been retained for education and information.

    We then visited The Peace Memorial Museum with audio guide - exceptionally moving. Renovated in 2019, the exhibition displays hundreds of authentic A-bomb artefacts, photos, paintings and displays. I would like to have spent more time especially in the last section on prevention and the work of Mayors around the world. It was dark at 7pm closing - it felt dark - except for The Flame of Peace.

    We walked to Okonominimura spread over 3 floors and enjoyed the Hiroshima version of her savoury layered pancake. We sat with 5 American couples who Guide was entertained matching. I am reminded of Miyamoto Musashi the famous samurai turned ronin and artist and his quote, ‘Today’s enemy is tomorrow’s friend’ - animosities that turn into alliances with time and understanding, for ‘it is effort that makes the impossible possible’.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Miyajima Island off Hiroshima

    April 7 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C

    We woke early to catch the 45 minute ferry from Hiroshima over to Miyajima alighting to friendly local deer. A short walk to ‘Otorri’, the Great Torri Gate, built from 600 year old camphor trees, that appears to float at high tide like Itsukushima Shrine it accompanies, which is lit up at night. The Gate was renovated in 2022. We caught the 2 part ropeway up Mount Misen to the observatory overlooking Setouchi art islands - a beautiful view. It was then a challenging downhill walk back to the village via the magnificent Daisho-in Temple (C9) with over 500 hatted Buddha statues in temple colours. Mist sprays provided an eerie atmosphere then a breeze turned blossom petals into snow flakes. There was a cave with 88 Buddhist icons - astounding!Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Miyajima to Uno Port

    April 7 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    A tourist bus back to the Shin-Osaka Station the hub for Shinkansen (Bullet) to Okayama then a local train to Uno. Uno Port Inn was small, simple and oddly charming. After rejection at restaurants possibly because we didn’t speak Japanese, we went to Hakkenden for Japanese tapas-style yakatori skewers - bacon wrapped asparagus, mushroom and ponzo, and scallops. Staff were very friendly helped by 2 wines. We were curious about the 2 tattooed characters who looked like yakuza - organised crime possibly descending from ronin, masterless samurai straight out of the series ‘Tokyo Vice’, as well as the poster of the Japanese Maritime Self-Defence Force 2025.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Naoshima, Setouchi Art Island

    April 8 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    ‘Olympus’ ferry to Benesse Corporation’s Naoshima Art Island. Their investment, aligned with the motto of ‘Well Being’, intends that the island and her people are the main focus but where art and architecture resonate with pristine nature. So much to see! Chichu Art Museum was the highlight - timed entry to Monet’s ‘Water Lillies’, Walter De Marias’ ‘Time, Timeless/No Time’ and James Turrell’s ‘Open Field’. The Cherry Blossom Labyrinth, Lee Ufan outdoor Museum, Benesse House Museum including the (3) ‘Chattering Men’, the Valley Garden, our ‘Seen/Unseen Known/Unknown’ karate reflection, Yayoi Kusama’s ‘Pumpkin’ and so much more. Amazing!Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Tanabe - Gateway to KK

    Apr 9–10 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    The night before setting off for the Kii Peninsula we had an early dinner at Osaka-ya. I ordered a ‘red fish set’ - a ‘set’ or Teishoku consists of a main dish and smaller accompanying dishes and is an important element of traditional Japanese culinary culture. We said farewell to Tamano with 2 local trains using Suica, then a Bullet, then a limited express local JR train with a different ticket, challenging Guide. We found the eclectic wild west Hotel Hanaya and our own rooms. Tanabe was a quiet rural town - we were rejected by several restaurants but found SYOU for fried squid and bacon over lettuce and green onion with ponzo sauce and Osaka style Okonomiyaki. 7-Eleven for wine for the trail then an early night to begin the Kumano tomorrow.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Kumano Kudo - Nakahechi Route

    April 10 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Kumano is the ancient name for the south eastern region of the Kii Peninsula. This lush, rugged environment has nurtured a profound form of nature worship in which mountains, rocks, forests and rivers are deified and revered as objects of worship. The landscape is believed to be the otherworldly abode of the gods - a focus for pilgrimage and spiritual training. When Buddhism arrived from China in C6 unique forms of Buddhism and the indigenous Shinto faith blended leading to the designation of local deities as manifestations of Buddhist entities. For centuries the two religions merged creating complex layers of symbolism and ritual.

    From C10 the 68 km Nakahechi Trail was considered the Imperial Route, leading from Takijiri on the western edge of the peninsula and stretching to Shingu on the east coast. It has UNESCO World Heritage status and was known as the ‘pilgrimage of ants’ as at one time retired Emperors would bring up to 300 on their journey.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    KK Day 1 To Takahara

    Apr 10–11 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    We boarded a local bus arriving at Takijiri where the Nakahechi portion of the KK begins. Almost immediately the steps and tree roots were steep. As Vanessa Freeman had remarked, ‘Kumano Kudo is not to be underestimated’. Continuous upward climbing today. I crawled through the ‘taini kuguri’ a narrow stone cave, meaning passing through the womb for a smooth delivery. Past interesting explanatory signs, a shoe repair box, a wood working gallery and an Art Gallery next to a shrine.

    We arrived at the tiny ridge-top ‘Village of Fog’ Takahara and identified Mt Ando! Momo’s Thought for the Day: Tread lightly, let your organs swing, empty your mind.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    KK Day 1 To Takahara

    April 10 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    Guest House Keyaki was run by a gentle young Japanese family, with a 14 year old pony, who operate during the walking season and walk themselves. We reflected on the very few walkers we had met on the peaceful trail while enjoying Chardonnay and cheese and crackers supplied by Guide, overlooking the glorious valley below.

    Dinner was a feast for the eyes, and a taste sensation - first a 2 level lacquered box with an assortment of traditional tempura, soba noodles, sushimi, tofu and vegetables followed by a sukiyaki of finely sliced beef with vegetables in a light sauce cooked over an open fire followed by green tea. Today - 7,742 steps, 6.3kms and just 123 flights.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    KK Day 2 To Chikatsuyu

    Apr 11–12 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    We loved luggage service and our one-of-a-kind, wooden, durable and stylish tags. Made in a traditional variation of Yakisugi meaning burned cedar, a keepsake.

    This mostly downhill day was very challenging on the legs. 2/3rds of the way through Poncho was required. It was cold and wet and there were small hailstones but the beauty of the towering forests was exhilarating. Descending to the village of Chikatsuyu we collected the key to Momiji-no-sato, a small home decorated with multiple Japanese quilts. We had arrived in the quaint and effortlessly efficient ‘Land of the Grannies of Kumano Kudo’.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    KK Day 2 To Chikatsuyu

    April 11 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    The KK motif is the three legged crow believed to be a divine messenger and supernatural guide in the Japanese creation myth. After a soothing hot bath in the interesting pink tub with a funky inset seat we had a little walk through the quiet, charming village. A lot of electric chairs for the elderly parked in garages indicated the aging rural population. A cherished 300! year old cherry blossom tree having flowered already was beside the funky Sakuru Garden Cafe with its amusing signage.

    The day’s walk had been ‘brutally good’ said the Frenchman. At the Three Moon View we’d followed him, whereupon we met the Tassie mum and daughter. At 6pm sharp our Bento Box dinner was graciously delivered by an elderly lady. Map study - it’s complicated, but Guide was GOOD after 16,584 steps, 13.1kms and only 82 flights.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    KK Day 3 to Hongu

    April 12 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    So tired! We hypothesised, accounting for roots, rocks, elevation and weather variables, that today’s 15 KK kms equated to actual, normal 30kms. It was exhausting but the silent forest, narrow ridges and dark downward passages with their subsidiary shrines called ojis, housing child deities of Kumano - places of worship and rest, were fascinating. We rested at a clearing where a worker’s ute was parked then continued through indistinguishable cedar and cypress plantations. We passed a deserted teahouse - there was an abandoned pink sewing machine inside.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    KK Day 3 to Hongu

    April 12 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Emerging from the forest we arrived in Yunomine Village with its UNESCO heritage listed Onsen, then walked to Ryokan Yunomineso, a traditional Japanese Inn. Our relatively modern hotel was quite authentic with a huge array of slippers at reception. In Japanese culture removing shoes signifies respect, and cleanliness. A beautiful painted depiction of the Emperor’s entourage walking the Kumano adorned the wall.

    Cute graphics in English helpfully explained arrangements in rooms, at the Onsen and at dinner. House Kimono was Japanese custom worn by all around the Ryokan. Dinner was 10! courses served in tiny portions for nutritional balance. I tried everything and Guide tried hard too after 14,813 steps, 11.76kms and only 49 flights.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    KK Day 3 Japanese Onsen Culture

    April 12 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The deeply rooted ritual of communal bathing in Onsen hot springs is serious, segregated business in Japan valued for relaxation, healing and social bonding intertwined with sacred Shinto purification beliefs and connection with nature. Samurai frequented them to heal wounds and recover from fatigue in mineral-rich waters. In modern times no tattoos linked with yakuza are allowed, although tourism has impacted this taboo. Carol and I were taking our friendship to a new level…

    We entered the ‘Women Only’ shoji door decorated with Hokusai’s ‘Great Wave’ in pink, showering before slipping discretely into the bath. We greeted the Tassie pair and since no washcloth was allowed to touch and depurify the Onsen water, it took ‘show us your map of Tasmania’ quite literally. The hot water had a rotten egg smell, natural crystallised mineral deposits of sulphur on the surrounding rocks and sloppy ‘hot spring flowers’ floating around us - all signs of a good sulphur Onsen. This was the moment we were 🎵’turning Japanese, I really think so’.🎵    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    KK Day 3 Yonumine Village

    April 13 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    Quite the breakfast at Ryokan Yunomineso - bean salad, pickles, egg, tofu for shabu shabu, an open small fish for cooking, orange juice and tea precisely arranged. Shabu shabu is a Japanese hot pot dish cooked by the diner by swishing ingredients in a simmering broth then dipped in flavourful sauces. Japanese cuisine emphasises seasonal and fresh ingredients and it is clean and delicious!

    We were driven to Yunomine village where the cars were small and square. We cooked 5 fresh eggs for 11 minutes in the hot spring water and carried them in a plastic bag with salt. Sweet potato was another option for boiling. Omamori amulets were traditional charms believed to offer protection from illness and promote longevity - leg health important for walkers. The hanging carp-shaped streamers symbolise strength, courage and good health of a fish that can swim against powerful currents.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    KK Day 4 to Hongu

    April 13 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    We set off into the forest in the rain. At the heart of these sacred mountains, Kumano was said to be the entrance to the land of Yomi, the ‘other world’ which spirits travelled to in Japanese mythology. Uphill, it was hard navigating rocks and roots then downhill very careful on every single steep wet step. The ‘Choux’ pastry shop was a wonderful surprise at the end of the trail into Hongu - a delicious cream choux pastry, chai latte and mandarin juice - so smiley, very enterprising indeed!

    We passed a Lee Ufan style rock sculpture of the 3 clawed KK crow motif beside Japan’s largest torri gate. Unfortunately the Spring Festival, where fathers and their young sons purify themselves in the Yunomino waters before walking the Dainichi-goe section we had just completed, had been cancelled due to rain.    Read more

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