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Rising Sun Tour April 2025
  • Pam Smith

Rising Sun Tour April 2025

A 22-day adventure by Pam Read more
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  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    KK Day 4 Hongu Taishi Grand Shrine

    April 13 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    It’s raining so we retired to the Hongu Cultural Centre to learn of the relationship between the Spanish and Japanese pilgrim walks - Sacred Sites of the Rising and Setting Sun. This was the site of the Hongu Grand Shrine until a flood moved it across the road. Fun with the traditional dress up posters.

    Up the stairs, with karate moves, to the 1st of the Kumano Sanzan - the name given to the 3 Grand KK Shrines. Pilgrims to Sanzan will attain peace in the past, present and future. At Hongu there were 4 places to ring the bell and show reverence to the majestic temple. We saw dad’s with their young sons showing them the way.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    KK Day 4 Kawayu Onsen

    April 13 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 16 °C

    It was quite a walk to Kawayu Onsen along a quiet tree-lined road but we kept pace on the promise of a river soak. Day 4 - 14,978 steps, 11.84kms and 49 flights. Our beds were made so we headed out with our spade to dig for hot spring water. Juniyakushi, Medical Buddha, is the guardian deity of the Kawayu Onsen. Assistant was an enthusiastic digger but alas we had to move upstream whereupon a little renovation provided an exceptional natural treat - so serene luxuriating in Oto River. Another elaborate dinner but with no explanations. After arranging luggage transfer to Tokyo, meaning a night without our large packs, we went to the women’s public outdoor onsen - very relaxing - we get onsen!Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    KK Day 5 Kumano-gawa River Boat

    April 14 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    We caught Bus 53 directly outside the hotel to Kumano-gawa River Boat Centre and pristine Dorokyo Gorge. The centuries old World Heritage River Pilgrimage Route in a traditional flat bottom wooden boat includes waterfalls, rock formations like flutters in the wind and the myth of the severed spine remains of an evil demon which we stood on, and islands where gods played chess. Mifune Island is where it is told deities 1st appeared, now an annual festival where nine boats from neighbourhoods of Shingu race circling the island 3 times recalling the dashing Kumano Suidan Navy of old. When our driver began rowing the guide played a traditional flute. The boat ride was a wonderful way to get a river perspective of Kumano’s spiritual landscape.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    KK Day 5 Hayatama Taisha GS

    April 14 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    On arrival at Shingu we walked to the 2nd Grand Shrine, Hayatama Taisha. Orange is the dominant colour aligned with the local orange and mandarin stalls? Orange reflects a deeper connection to peace, harmony and spiritual awakening as well as humility, mindfulness and community belonging. Simplicity and detachment from material possessions are features of Japanese Shintoism and Buddhism.

    It was a 20 min walk to Kamikura-jinja, a subsidiary shrine, with its exceptionally large sacred rock. In darkness, at the Feb 6 Oto Matsuri Festival, men dressed all in white hold lit pine torches and run down the 538 ancient steep stone steps. The bravery of older citizens attempting the staircase was inspiring for the view of Shingu!    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    KK Day 5 Nachi Taisha GS

    April 14 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    2 buses to Kumano Nashi Taisha, the 3rd and by far the grandest location of Sanzan. The 800 year old Meoto husband and wife ‘Married Cedars’ have intertwined roots and mark the beginning of the sacred Daimon-zaka. The scenic 600 metre cobblestone staircase slope, leading to the shrines, was lined with ancient cedar and cypress trees - a mystical atmosphere indeed.

    The orange Buddhist shrine had a fire that has burned for hundreds of years - I paid Y100 and wished for peace then climbed through the 850 year old camphor tree to wish again. We passed the more modest wooden Shinto shrine down to the recently renovated awe-inspiring Three-Storied Pagoda and Nachi waterfall behind. Remarkable Shinto-Buddhist integration in nature. Day 5 - 13,331 steps, 10.56kms and 78 flights - a spectacular end to the Kumano Kudo section of our Rising Sun Tour!    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Kii-Katsuura

    April 15 in Japan ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Bus to Kii-Katsuura, a small village renowned for its identity as a spiritual centre of natural beauty and thriving fishing port. With enthusiastic directions from the station tuna shop owner we found our Nachtikatsuura accommodation. Izakata Street is a characteristic covered shopping area selling unicorn ice cream cones and very thinly sliced meat. Street lighting is adorned with… tuna. Alas Carol was unable to get grilled tuna in the town with Japan’s highest catch of tuna. The strictly controlled 7am Tuna Auction was closed on Tuesday but at the dock we saw free hand/foot baths, immaculate fishing vessels, spectacular islands off the coast and the hilarious whale ferry. The Tsunami Evacuation Building was a sobering thought… nature.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Shinjuku, Tokyo

    April 15 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    A travel day on a 3 hour local train to Nagoya, then a bullet train, where we glimpse sacred snowcapped Mt Fuji (Fuji-san), then a local Suica train to Tokyo.

    Shinjuku is said to be the busiest station in Tokyo. It was peak hour and people were everywhere yet so respectful - unbelievable! Our luggage arrived from Kawayu and we checked in at Tokyu Stay. Dinner was boiled gyoza with cabbage cooked in a stock for 10 minutes and crumbed chicken. Some interesting menu options.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Shibuya, Tokyo

    April 16 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Iconic Scramble Crossing is said to be the busiest in the world and near it Hachi, Shibuya’s Faithful Dog, who waited for his Professor’s return each evening even after his passing. Shibuya is loud and modern and go-karting in onesies is a thing!

    The ‘Katsushika Hokusai - Another Story in Tokyo’ Exhibition featured ‘The 36 Views of Mt Fuji’ which became 48 that he published in his 70’s. The panels were all placed low so we bowed to his genius. He was considered a ‘multi-creator’ crossing genres. He was keenly aware of the world, its trends and the culture of the time and he had a great desire to express them. The main exhibition attraction was an animated video with floor vibrations and wind as well as instagram opportunities in bamboo settings.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    ‘The Great Wave off Kanagawa’

    April 16 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Katsushika Hokusai’s (1760-1849) ‘Great Wave’ (1832) is the most famous work of art from Japan and has much meaning including
    - a powerful representation of nature’s beauty and untameable immense force contrasted with human fragility,
    - the fleeting nature of life and
    - the enduring symbolism of the sacred Mount Fuji as a stable symbol of hope.

    During the time of its creation in the Edo period 1608-1868, Japan was in a state of national seclusion and strict protectionism. Ukiyo-e became the most important artistic style, focusing on the colourful world of festivals, pleasure and luxury.

    The dynamic and powerful ghostlike army of claws of the menacing wave overshadowing the three helpless tiny fishing long boats could be interpreted as a metaphor for the outside world, a force of change to be both feared and a connection to the wider world, represented by the new Prussian blue pigment from Europe.

    With the end of isolation in 1860 ‘Japonism’ enabled the exchange of artworks with America and Europe. Numerous famous painters were fascinated by the exotic Japanese art including Van Gogh, Gauguin, Klimt and Monet. So our search for Hokusai ‘The Great Wave off Kanagawa’ bowls and plates intensified.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Harajuku and Shinjuku, Tokyo

    April 16 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We walk up the iconic narrow Takeshita Street in Harajuku, a hotspot of Japanese pop kawaii (childlike cuteness) culture for colourful fashion, quirky goods, unique food and dog cafes. The Takeshita Gate is a colourful bubble-like installation with an interacting panel switching between greetings and a live camera. Traditionally Japanese Gates mark a changement from the normal world to the divine. We passed Omotesando, a broad, tree-lined avenue sometimes referred to as Tokyo’s Champs-Elysees. Onward past Game Taito Stations which are entire stores dedicated to capsule toys located next door to Poker Machine venues - one preparing for the other. Dinner in Omoide Yokocho an alley famous for its 80 restaurants that popped up after WWII. Finally we visit the giant 3D cat billboard in Shinjuku shooting to internet stardom and winner of design and advertising awards. The crowd was mesmerised.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Yoyogi Park

    April 16 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    We’d lunched in Yoyogi Park, the 70ha forest in central Tokyo featuring 100,000 trees donated from all over Japan. At the heart of the park is a Shinto Shrine Meiji Jingu in which the souls of Emperor Meiji and his consort Empress Shoken are enshrined as human Kami. Emperor Meiji ruled at a time of ‘Japanese Spirit and Western Knowledge’ (1868-1912) - he shaved his topknot and took western food and wine. Sake and wine barrels face each other on the path to the shrine in the spirit of world peace.

    The Emperor and Empress excelled in writing Waka which are traditional poems of 31 syllables in the pattern 5-7-5-7-7. They composed 100,000 and 30,000 Waka respectively expressing their feelings towards the world, country and people as well as ethical thoughts. Since opening in 1920 the park has had a chequered history.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Ginza and Toyoso, Tokyo

    April 17 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Today we were off to Ginza the elegant and luxurious shopping district. There was beautiful architecture at the Ginza Yonchome Intersection including the renowned Mitsukoshi Department Store pictured here at night. It had an amazing lower ground floor food hall with local and international offerings exquisitely displayed.

    A bus ride to teamLab Planets museum in Toyosu. A drink at Blue Bottle Cafe then we enter the 3 large scale concept areas of Water, Forest and Garden with a 4th Open Air which is the outdoor cafe. The immersive experience is a blend of technology and nature emphasising physical human interaction with the installations exploring the relationship between individuals and their environment. The artworks change depending on the presence of people. A social media extravaganza.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Asakusa, Taito City, Shinjuku, Tokyo

    April 18 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    A train to the old Edo atmosphere of Asakusa to visit the busy Sensoji Temple, Tokyo’s oldest, built in 628. Kimono clad tourists abound around the buildings and fine gardens. For Y100 ($1) you can chance your fortune and hang it back up if you don’t like it, or invest in charm amulets called omamori to aid and protect against evil.

    On to ‘Kappabashi’ Dougugai Kitchen Town, a 100 year old 800 meter long street lined with 160 wholesale kitchen wares. Yay! - we procured our Hokusai bowls and plates, and Tojiro Utility knives with a slight wave pattern and great strength on the inside for Fraz and El. Past the Japan Academy we enter Ueon Park with its many national museums and stumble on the Sake Festa - all 201 try-me’s! Back to Shinjuku to wander the seedy alleys of Golden-Gai, a post war entertainment district catering to the Occupation Forces, with some 300 disreputable establishments.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Hakone

    Apr 19–20 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    We caught the Romance Car/Train with large windows to the mountain town of Hakone and found our way to authentic Masutomi Ryokan. I took a short diversion to the Medical Centre - $36 consult and $17 for 6 days of meds all via Google Translate! From the Info Centre I caught the bus to the Sightseeing Cruise pirate ship, met Carol and we were on our way up 2 ropeways to Owakudani Hot Springs and their black boiled eggs produced by sulphur, then Hakone Geomuseum. A cable car and train to Hakone Open Air Museum, all transport around Hakone care of the (not) Freepass.

    Opened in 1969 the Museum spreads over 70,000 sq mtrs displaying 120 sculptures notably the 18mtr ‘Symphonic Sculpture’ of stained glass - an arcadia for contemporary world sculptors. Also the wonderful 1984 Picasso Pavilion exhibiting a wide variety of his techniques. Switchbacks to private onsen and private dinner!    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Hakone to Kyoto

    April 20 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Back up the mountain to the Pola Museum of Art set in Forest Hakone, and the Secrets of Colour Exhibition as well as Collection Masterpieces. A beautiful design in the forest. We could have spent a few days in Hakone - there was so much to see and do.

    A train then bullet via Odawara, Manly’s ‘Friendship City’, to Kyoto. 2 trains to Fushini Ihara Taisa Shrine with its Thousand Torri Gates dedicated to the deity of good harvest and business success predating Kyoto’s establishment as Japan’s capital 711AD. The Shrine’s importance grew in the Edo Period 1603-1868 when merchants began donating gates. The foxes are messengers preventing famine. A view over Kyoto, arrival at Tabist Kiki Hotel then dinner at Israeli Tel Aviv in an elegant alley.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Nakagyo Ward & Gion, Kyoto

    April 21 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We hit Nishiki Market, known as ‘Kyoto’s Kitchen’, of about 130 shops along a 400meter arcade. An unbelievable array of plastic samples of the delicacies available - seafood skewers, sushi and sushimi, noodles, wagyu and egg, green onion omelette, tempura, caviar - amazing! The message was be polite, respect local culture, do not eat or drink while walking, eat at the store of purchase and ‘I’m troubled by garbage and dirt’. Onwards to Gion, the original entertainment district of Geisha and apprentice Maiko, ochaya (teahouses) and machida (traditional wooden merchant dwellings). I spotted a very elegant looking woman, a Mama-san who looked to me to be the real deal, and we observed discrete, elegant entrances, which put me in mind of ‘Memoirs of a Geisha’ - so intriguing. Tourism is an issue and some streets are closed.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Maruyama Park, Kyoto

    April 21 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Maruyama Park, a traditional Japanese public garden, was a pleasant spot to relax for lunch and watch professional photographers position their subjects under drooping cherry trees. We mimicked their poses. Towards the top of the park are temples and so many pretty fringed lillies - a popular spot for Waka poets.

    On to Kiyomizu-Dera Temple whose beautiful main hall hangs over a cliff with breathtaking views across greenery to Japan’s tallest 3 storey pagoda at 31meters. The area is closed so we take an alternate route past a large burial ground to the freeway. Dinner was Yakiniku bbq with 2 types of wagyu, shredded cabbage and honey sweet potato. Just 3 glasses of red wine then 7-11 for creme brûlée - we love 7-11!    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Arashiyama, Kyoto

    Apr 22–23 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    We travelled to the Kimono Forest or ‘600 Pillars of Creation’ located at the Randen Arashiyama Tram Station. Created by artist Yasumichi Morita in 2013 it represents an idealised image of Japan - modern aesthetics with traditional patterns. I immersed my hands in the Pond of Dragon to fill my heart with peace and happiness. Then we were off to the village of Sagano and the iconic Arashiyana Bamboo Grove which spans about 200meters to Okochi-Sanso Villa Garden. A classic Japanese garden it was built by a film star over 30 years. Across the valley was a Buddhist house - a place where 4 trainee monks spend a year not talking to get in touch with their faith.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Arashiyama, Kyoto

    April 22 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    We visited Gioji Buddhist Temple famous for its 17 species of moss hidden under great maple trees in a charming and original mystical zen landscape. Then on to Adashino Nenbutsuji Temple of the Prue Land Buddhist Sect filled with haunting stone monuments and images. The Thousand Lights Candle Festival held annually in August offers a candle to each of the 8000 stone Buddha images. We headed to the Togetsu-kyo Bridge spanning the Katsura River - a wooden bridge popular for period films then a wander through the backstreets of Arashiyama with enchanting garden settings, amazing dog couture and a traditional textile shop. Back to the Yakiniku restaurant - they remembered us and gave a generous pour in our 1 glass.Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    Golden Temple, Kyoto

    April 23 in Japan ⋅ 🌧 19 °C

    We spent the morning at the Golden Temple which apparently manifests Goruraka Judo, the Land of Perfect Bliss - it truely was a sight to behold! A Zen temple covered in gold leaf and reflected in a mirror pond - an immersive and poetic experience arranged according to the codes of Zen aesthetics. Definitely the best till last.

    A bullet to Osaka on a Hello Kitty ‘Hakura’ meaning ‘faraway’. The Kyoto Shinkansen Station mosaics of a five tiered pagoda, a temple and sakura were emblematic of Nippon, a nationalistic version of the name for Japan meaning literally ‘the sun’s origin’ or ‘The Land of the Rising Sun’ being to the east of China.    Read more

  • Pam SmithRising Sun Tour April 2025Pam Smith

    The Way of the Kami

    April 23 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Shinto has no founder, no book and no concept of religious conversion. It places value in harmony with nature and virtues such as ‘Magokoro’ meaning sincere heart. Something divine is regarded as Kami, the divine spirit, of which there are an unlimited number. Kami can be found in mythology, nature and human beings. Japanese feel awe and gratitude towards such Kamis and enshrine them to Shinto Shrines. Shinto is said to be ‘the way of Japanese life’ influencing lives and minds.

    The charm of Japanese culture has whispers of centuries past - a window to the spiritual world of Japan. Unique aesthetics and techniques in artistic expression such as Yakisugi burned cedar, Ikebana flower arranging, Origami paper folding, Kintsugi repairing pottery with gold inlay considered ‘beauty in the broken’ or ‘perfection in imperfection’ and Yotsume Toji four hole binding are but a few of the joys of Japonism. Its principles of minimalism, balance and the appreciation of nature continue to influence art worldwide. We were blessed to experience Sakura and the tradition of hanami or ‘contemplation of flowers’ embodying wabi-sabi and Shinto ideals - impermanence, hope, renewal.

    Saikerei Escort Master Carol-sama.    Read more

    Trip end
    April 24, 2025
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