The Great White North

September 2017 - April 2024
An open-ended adventure by Jasmine Read more
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  • Day 1

    Ottawa

    September 11, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    The day finally arrived, auspicious as it is on 9/11. I've known it for months and we all know that time never stops.
    There are so many unknowns for this adventure compared to previous shenanigans. This one is fo real, with real responsibility and duty. Yet, I know diddly squat about actually living up to that responsibility and duty, let alone actually living in the true North itself! To say there is some nervousness would be a smidge understated.
    But, enough about my scaredy cat musings, on to the actual move! The relocation folks came for my goods a few days ago and I wish I would have packed more. You can never have enough!
    Then, I learn today, that despite the paperwork provided to me outlining that they'll cover 6 checked bags, the airlines don't normally do 6 bags. Only 5. Uh, what? Thankfully, they made an exception and let me check my life into their hands. My ticket also wasn't booked with the notation that a pet was going to be along for the ride.
    The cat only got a half dose of drugs this morning so he spent a fair bit of time with his nose pressed to the mesh of his carrier while persistently trying to rip out the mesh with his claws. Once airborne and less movement around him, he settled pretty good. It also turns out that this hotel doesn't allow pets. I didn't know that. The relocation people booking my stay clearly didn't ask despite me being clear that I was bringing the furball. I actually forgot to mention him during check in and he stayed quiet so there you go. He's with me know, druggedly trying to pull himself on the bed.
    The little things that are happening are indicative of what's in store I think. My hotel says I'm booked through the 13th but my flight leaves a day earlier. Did they book extra nights at the hotel because of the high chance of weather-related cancellations? Or, was it just done wrong? Then, no one mentioned that I'd be unable to get into my house because my flight lands after the housing office closes. No one mentioned this to me or told me I'd need accommodation upon arrival at my final destination.
    I scheduled a tenant 'check-in' the day after I arrive with the person listed as such in an email. When I called to confirm this morning, I was told that was the wrong person I scheduled my check-in with. Wow. Okay. So, it's looking like a lot of things are not real here. Not true for 6 checked bags, not able to get in house, wrong people listed in my emails...
    Seems to be quite a few details just totally left out. This is gonna be fun!!
    Icing on the cake is my action packer tote apparently had a blow out during loading or unloading. Check the pic out. lolol.
    The good news is that I was able to store my baggage overnight at the airport so I didn't have to lug it to the hotel! AND, the baggage buggies are free! See, small things!
    Tomorrow is the big day of actual arrival in Igloolik.
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  • Day 2

    Who knew the Arctic was cold?

    September 12, 2017 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Actually, it was a bright blue sunny sky day with little wind and very warm temps. And I was still freezing. My body better get the memo and start adapting asap! It was a balmy 35 degrees F, 2-3° C. Really not bad... Which is why my reaction to it is so sad.

    My new house is quite nice on the inside considering the outsides. Because it is so dusty and dirty---literal dirt from the earth, not unclean--everything has that look. Plus, there is no grass or trees or any vegetation at all for that matter. As you can see from the pics, the beauty is in the land, not the structures themselves.

    Got my first sticker shocks with food prices. It was a very quick trip in and they closed soon after at 630pm! And I thought New West places closed eyes early! Yikes! I opted for the pound of ground chicken for $4 rather than the lb of ground beef at $13. Also, I bypassed the frozen skillet meal at $16. Got some frozen peas for $5.50 and iceburg lettuce for a steal at $3.50! Small italian dressing was $5. Nectarines were there! Twelve bucks a pound.

    All in all, I think my hands, ears, and face are gonna freeze off.
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  • Day 3

    INTERNET!!!

    September 13, 2017 ⋅ ☀️ 1 °C

    Internet! Internet! Internet! Yayy! Well, internet lite really since it's only 20gb for the whole month. But, nonetheless, I can actually load this site and upload pics at 5:00pm!! I have no idea how far 20gb will take me, but considering that I can't stream any videos or movies, maybe I won't blow through it in 2 days. Back home, we had so much internet, I didn't even think about it. My phone had unlimited and well, the house had enough that we never went over...so, this 'internet-worry' is something fun to niggle my brain as I cruise through facebook......Jasmine, do you really need to look at ALL 34 pics someone posted? Nope. You get 2. Again, it's all perspective. I arrived in Igloolik mere months after they received 4G service. That's great timing right there!! Plus, I got to fly through the brand new airport in Iqualuit. All 6 gates were gleaming and ripe with new carpet smell. See, it's all coming up roses.

    Today was mostly moving related business....do a tenant walk-through with the governmental landlords, go by the internet provider office, grab some more necessities at the store, and pay security deposit for power to be put in my name. Such fun I tell ya.

    The shopping really reiterated that my brain is faulty. Yesterday, I was surprised at the chill and wind IN THE ARCTIC (and it wasn't actually cold at all by Arctic standards). Today, I was surprised by the prices in stores IN THE ARCTIC. Despite reading and being aware of the prices, it's still a shock. It's as if all three things that I fight against most in my life have coalesced in one place here: the Cold, the Dust, the Cost. Anyone who knows me knows that paying $28 for a 12-pack of Coke is gonna be the death of me. Anyone wanna send my frugal butt a Soda Stream??!! lolol.

    Getting the internet was a cute little story. I am beginning to see how traveling has really made this move a bit easier and hopefully continues to help me settle in and cope. Long-term, I'm not sure how things will go because when I've traveled, it's only been for at most, a few months at a time. So back to the internet. I had done research before moving and had emailed the company representative here in Igloolik twice before arriving. I got no replies. Today, I asked the housing folks doing my tenant walk-through where the internet place was. They told me, "it's not far, just past 3 way stop, it's up by RCMP and near Northern store in a dark blue building that looks like a house" (there are no street names signed here---don't know if they exist and just aren't signed or whether there are no street names in general). I don't know why I think I can find this place, but I figure I can. I do. It is blue and looks like a house. Plus, you know, it had a sign. Helpful. I walk in and ask about internet. The lady tells me the price. She tells me the monthly is $84. I say I read online that it's $80--what is the $4? She says completely deadpan and apologetically, "I don't know." I say, "is it tax?" "I don't know", comes the reply followed by, "are you going to buy?" Yep, yep I am. So, she gets the modem, no talking, no chit chat, no explanation, and starts setting it up. She logs in and creates an account, prints an invoice (which, even from across the desk, I can clearly see that $4/mo for the $80 subscription fee is labeled as taxes), and tells me I'm ready to go. The end. Yep, definitely like being in a foreign country. Ummmm....I just go home and plug this in?? Yall don't need to come set it up?? Where is my bill sent?? When is my bill due?? You know, just that other, useless stuff related to internet service provision. lolol. And, just like traveling, if you just go with it, it will work on out...
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  • Day 5

    whale jello trampoline

    September 15, 2017 ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    It's a jello trampoline, a jello trampoline, a jello trampoline (sung in the tune of "Yellow Submarine"). Bet you never knew there was a rhyme for yellow submarine! But there is! And it's for when you're jumping on a rotting whale carcass! It's like a jello trampoline.
    Things to be grateful for: cold weather when investigating decomposing sea mammals.

    So that was a big highlight of the day. Getting to see a washed up bowhead whale carcass. Also exciting was realizing that the grease from the whale moved away from the site in a definite, recognizable pattern of polar bear tracks. Further investigation revealed where said whale had been scratched and gnawed on. Just a little though. Maybe not quite rotten enough for the bears yet? Nevertheless, he/she sure greased up her paws and made some tracks! I'm not sure how long it will take before it really sinks in my brain that there are polar bears around. Like around me. Potentially at any time--especially away from town---which is where I was. Not to worry though, we approached the quintessential polar bear feasting site on foot while leaving the shotgun in the truck. You gotta have a little spice in life. I guess. Anyway, no polar bears spotted so it was all good.

    The second big adventure was returning to what was either a cabin or large rock. On the way out to the cache sites where locals bury walrus meat to ferment and cure or whatever---honestly, I don't know what the meat is doing under the piles of rock---but that's neither here nor there. The point is, on the way out to these sites, my partner noted that, "oh wow! Is that a cabin or a huge rock over there?" while pointing some distance to the horizon. I couldn't tell. It was resolved that we'd have to check it out on the way back because it was imperative to know if that was the biggest rock on the island. One must know these things you see. During our return drive, we stopped as close as we could get and began the walk to determine the size of this rock. It was NOT the biggest rock on the island and thus deemed, "a big waste of time" which I took to mean, had it actually been the largest rock on the island, our time would have been well spent.

    I also saw a rarely sighted gyrfalcon and the less uncommon peregrine falcon. Saw an all white arctic fox as well. Mind you, I would not have known these species had I not been told. I am useless in such situations.

    The location of the caches and the washed up whale carcass are "out of town" along the island's tip. I passed by the dump to get there which looked like a big ole smorgasbord of odds, ends, metal, and lumber that potentially could be very useful! Duly noted... Folks like to get "out of town" and go to their cabins. Town gets a bit stuffy and cramped. I will agree that the landscape is much more beautiful without staring at water tanks and broken bikes and trash strewn in ditches and the other usual detritus of humans living as we all do. However, what I found amusing was that near one set of caches there were about 5-8 cabins within slingshot distance from each other. So much for privacy on the land! lol.
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  • Day 9

    Flexibility is the only ability.

    September 19, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    That's right. I'm not in Igloolik right now. That's because last Friday I got a call from someone I did not yet know wondering if I was headed down to help with the field crew. Ummm, nope. I kinda knew that wasn't the end of it and sure enough, yesterday, on Monday, I got the call to come to Iqaluit and be prepared to go anywhere for anywhere from 4 days to 2 weeks. The person watching Dubby said as he dropped me off at the airport, "See you in 45 days." And, I think that sums it up.
    I arrived here and man, oh man, did this town of about 8000-9000 seem HUGE! Bustling. Busy. Whoa! So many stores. There is even a chiropractic store. I'm staying in a B&B for goodness sakes (albeit, a B&B where you make your own breakfast and I'm pretty sure I'm sharing the same bathroom as the people that live there...). There are multiple RESTAURANTS and PAVED roads. I'm tellin ya, this place is big time.
    I arrived and got some lunch and then went about to try and find the department I'd been directed to. Mind you, I did not get an address and could not find an address online. I just figured if I asked around, eventually I could find it. When I actually arrived, at HQ, actually, they thought I was a bit crazy to just have wandered around until I found it. But, oddly enough, they all knew me (well, the front desk didn't--they thought I was crazy), but the HR and travel staff did. Pretty funny. I wasn't able to tell them anything about what I needed or what my plans were because I actually do not know. Literally just told to get down here and go to HR. Hilarious. The HR manager drives me over to where I'm actually supposed to be and there is a couple people in there that exclaim when I am escorted in, "Oh Jasmine! We've been looking for you! We went down to your B&B and you weren't there!" Lol. That's because I was wandering around Iqaluit trying to figure out where I was supposed to be.
    Tomorrow I get an orientation AND maybe even a tour. Then, off to get kitted out for the field. No idea folks. No idea.

    Lesson: flexibility is the only ability...especially in my current situation.
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  • Day 11

    Supply and demand: a case in cat pee

    September 21, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    The Arctic is tough. Tough to build on with the permafrost. Tough to get equipment and resources. Tough to work within the weather constraints. But, what remains the same is a little scenario called "supply and demand". It turns out that when things are in very low supply but there is a big demand, weird things happen. I know, I know, shocking to all. The story I'd like to share today begins with an itinerary that got bumped up a day for two travelers. Two travelers that were racing against impending bad weather that had the potential to trap them in a place they didn't want to be trapped in for many days. So, they raced to Iqaluit and figured they'd sort the accommodations when they arrived----or the folks helping arrange their travel would have it sorted. Unfortunately for them, Iqaluit recently lost on of its big hotels to renovations into residences and this week has the annual trade show in town. There was not a hotel room, b&b, airbnb, or anything to be found. These guys ended up bunking in a private house, one on an air mattress and the other on a couch. The best part is that during the night, the resident male cat visited the person on the air mattress and delivered a special treat of cat piss on the mattress while he was on it (though, as I understand it, it was on the corner of the mattress and so only 'marginally' affected the person's personal sleeping bag and bedroll). The other person, sleeping on the couch, felt certain that the couch was the regular site of the cat's 'special deliveries' based on the overwhelming aroma of kitty-specific smell. I lied, the best part was that these accommodations cost them......$400. So, the next time you feel like complaining about your Super8 or Holiday Inn's scratchy linens at $159 per night....just remember about supply and demand. (For me, I would like to retract my statements about my b&b---it was AWESOME--not one cat peed on me, not once).

    Tonight, I have made it to the big leagues and am in the main, serious hotel. When I walked in my room, there was satellite classical music playing on the flat screen and chocolates awaiting me on the bed! That's right...and the rate for this? A quite reasonable $210/night. I'm so excited to go eat in the hotel restaurant tonight!! They even serve alcohol!! Iqauit is the only city that serves booze in public places such as a restaurant. This week they opened their first beer and wine store. It grossed 10% of its yearly predicted revenue in 4 days. I think it's going to do well---though, you can only buy a 12pack and 2 bottles of wine per day.

    For those wanting a bit more history, Iqaluit (formerly known as Frobisher Bay) was apparently the very first European settlement (excluding Vikings) in North America---sometime around mid-1500's....but I'd like someone to fact check that for me. The bay is very beautiful with interesting rocks and sunsets. Additionally, this area boasts the 2nd highest tide in Canada (Bay of Fundy has the highest). There you go--fun facts for the day. :)
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  • Day 12

    You're the cabin defense for polar bears

    September 22, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 2 °C

    Things I never thought I'd hear in my life...."You'll be kept back with the other person and you two will have to protect the cabin and yourselves from polar bears." I'm not sure what exclusions are in my life insurance policy but surely they haven't thought of that one!

    The weather is looking good for tomorrow which means I will be heading out to an island with a cabin, and apparently, lots of bears. Not to worry, I don't think anyone has ever died there. They did however, start keeping two people at the cabin after a lone person got chased to the roof by a bear and had no one to help him until the crew returned, or so the story goes. So now, two stay. See, safety first!

    I got all sorts of fun goodies thanks to my generous employer. The Arctic ain't nothing if it isn't sexy. Shoo-wee...some really hot items here. Rain jacket parkas and winter ice boots. Insulated rubber boots...it does not come hotter than that folks. High heels and stilettos...pssshh....institution green, thick rubber boots that enlarge your feet by 4 sizes is where it's at! It's like a push up bra for your feet....you automatically get 'enhanced' multiple sizes!

    I'm off to enjoy my last night of civilization! This cabin they tell me of is supposedly just big enough for 2 bunk beds (so 4 people with beds) and a very small kitchen--something like 12x12ft altogether. I was told to prepare for anywhere from 4 days to unknown. Sure, that's easy enough. How much fun will this be? Me and three of my new best friends enjoying the 12ftx12ft cabin (hope no one has gas). What a way to meet your boss, huh?!
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  • Day 29

    Burning shit bags, yes, literal shit

    October 9, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    4 strangers, 1 cabin, 16 days, and lots of shit bags.

    Did I mention one of the strangers was my new boss? I don't know why HR departments don't put all their new hires on an island in the arctic with their new boss for 16 days in a primitive cabin. You just cross a threshold when your boss sees you grab some toilet paper to go do some business or you see your boss getting dressed out of their jammies in the morning and brushing their teeth. Reality. But, the best part? The best part is your boss explaining the best way to layer helicopter fuel (jet-A or B) into the burn barrel to make sure the bag full of human excrement burns well. And, note, NEVER use regular gasoline to burn a shit bag. Explosions of feces occur and no one is a winner when that happens. (I did not learn this from experience. Nope, that pearl was passed along by, you guessed it, my boss). Some bosses tell you how to fill out time sheets, or best practices for running the monthly team meeting. Not mine. We go over important details like how lavender lysol over top your most recent business in the shit bucket really does hide the smell and how you never leave the cabin at night without first poking the flashlight out the door to check for polar bears (which, does, in fact, really make you evaluate seriously your need to pee and whether you can hold it until morning light).

    To be honest, burning the trash isn't so bad. We double line the poop bucket and there's even a seat mounted on the plywood hole, although, someone wasn't super great with a jigsaw and the hole isn't perfectly round. This means that a little too much time on the seat and the plywood edge sticking out becomes might uncomfortable. Not that you'd spend too much time out there because, well, it's damn cold in the bathroom. That's right, the cabin, a whole 12 ft x 15 ft, had a separate room (with the door outside) for the bathroom. Great privacy actually. Not warm, but private. You see the bucket filling up and you simply pull out the bag, douse with Jet-A and watch the fireworks. It takes several hours to burn down to nothing because while the jet fuel is smooth, it burns fast so you have to continue to add more to dry out the human waste so it will burn. Then, some shoveling and pushing around of the half burned poo and you're ready for more Jet fuel. I'm telling you, the fun never ends on Allen Island.

    I'm sure you're well done with the shit burning, but you know, that's why I got a Ph.D...so I could burn human waste on a remote island. Did I mention I was also the camp cook? hahaha---anyone else just cringe thinking about potential fecal-oral contamination?? Not to worry---no one got sick on my food. Had a 3 burner propane camping stove which was great, but hard to manage the "heat" settings.

    I'll write more in the coming days, but for now, I'll sign off because it's been a very long day. If you've ever had to push an atv up ramps into the belly of a plane, you'll know why I'm tired. Gee Wilikers!
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  • Day 30

    Sugar sand beaches....

    October 10, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ -4 °C

    ...are in the Arctic. If they found fish in the waters around our cabin, it would be a gold mine! You could fancy up the cabin a bit and charge tourists a gazillion dollars to come out there because in truth, it's breathtakingly beautiful. Rugged. Pristine. AND. Sugar Sand Beaches. Not even kidding. If the temps were, you know, maybe just a few degrees warmer, you could really relax on the beach...assuming a polar bear doesn't happen by....some kinks still to be worked out for my resort idea, obviously.

    Though there was no running water or any plumbing, the cabin was actually quite comfortable for me. I chose a top bunk which allowed my feline tendency to enjoy being high and spying on others to be satisfied. I felt safe and out of the way up there. I could retreat to the "upstairs", as I started calling it, and get out of the crew's way as they gathered their gear and prepared to leave for the day. In fact, the 'upstairs' would often be too hot, if you can believe that, because we also had an oil stove that we'd burn for heat. It worked really well. I wished I'd brought some shorts many nights. But, my upbringing in the South taught me to channel my inner shellfish and simply not move. At all. That way, I didn't overheat.

    And, despite the terrible sounding bathroom situation, it wasn't actually terrible. Because it's cold, there was little smell unless you raced in there right after you saw someone exit. In that case, you deserve to smell stink cause that's just dumb to enter the shitter right after someone else. I will likely never use lavender Pine-Sol in my life again, but hey, there are some casualties in this life.

    We had lots of food, though the choices were somewhat limited as the days wore on. We did not get any more food drops while I was there. Earlier in the season, gathering ice was a big job to keep the coolers stocked and food cold. It was cold enough when I was there to keep all the ice frozen in the coolers. In fact, our water jugs began to freeze outside. So, I didn't have that responsibility. I cooked every night except one. That was an exercise in creativity sometimes. I feel that food is important for keeping energy and spirits up. If you worked all day in difficult conditions and then came back to yuck food, it would be a major attitude killer. I tried to change things up but I did have to repeat some meals.

    We had a generator and plenty of gas so that wasn't really rationed which was awesome. All in all, I really can't complain. I kept myself busy enough, but not really that busy. Sweeping, planning meals, making coffee, cleaning the cabin, cooking, washing dishes, collecting water, burning trash, playing solitaire...so much to do.

    I even managed to take two modified bird baths. By modified, I mean I took a saucepan with hot water into the bathroom with a flashlight. I found a piece of relatively clean cardboard about 2 ft by 2ft and stood on that so that I didn't have to stand in the dirt and sand on the floor of the bathroom. Then, I squatted like a caveman and washed my underwear. Once clean, the undies became my washcloth (because I failed to bring either washcloth or towel). That's right, I was using my own underwear to wash myself...hey, it's cloth too right??! And, it's clean now! It's very difficult to wash your body and keep the water contained to your 2 ft x 2 ft piece of cardboard. I didn't want to get water on the floor because it would freeze and someone could slip in there. Did I mention it was chilly? Finally, I rinsed my hair with the now dirty-clean water and wrapped my hair in my old shirt (remember, no towel). I figured drying my hair with the dirty shirt would serve to both dry my hair and give my dirty shirt a little shampoo smell. Win-win. Don't judge people. You weren't there! And let me tell you. Those nasty little caveman showers had me skipping out of there like a fresh clean daisy with a pep in my step!
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  • Day 32

    Then there is a blizzard...

    October 12, 2017 in Canada ⋅ 🌙 -5 °C

    It turns out that the Arctic isn't all sugar sand beaches and tanning. Nope. Turn out, in fact, that weather goes to real crap with a quickness. I'd never had blowing snow pelt my face and body so hard that it felt like I was getting sandblasted with snow. Who needs micro-dermabrasion treatments to keep your skin smooth and soft when you can simply step into a blizzard??! Unfortunately, the poor weather forced us all to stay within the confines of the cabin for a couple of days. That was cozy.

    It was just awful outside. And, that meant that running out to the bathroom was a shock. The best part about the bathroom that I learned was that the seam between the roof and wall was apparently not water tight. So, as I was sitting on the luxurious porcelain throne, I felt snow fluttering down my back. Thankfully, it was only a brief visit that time to the bathroom because any snow down your shirt while in the restroom is just too much. Furthermore, while the snow was invading my personal space, the wind was howling and I was pretty convinced the shed was gonna blow away around me, leaving me there, on that stupid bucket. I heard sheets of tin starting to rip off and the building was shaking so I frantically got myself squared away. I stepped out of the bathroom shed to see the tin sheets trying to flip off the roof onto me and the dog. I yelled at the dog and ran for the door. I was scared the tin would cut or kill the dog, slice her right up, not to mention me. Well, the boys inside thought I was yelling because there was a polar bear. They yank open the cabin door and I'm screaming over the wind for Daisy to come in and they're screaming, "WHERE WHERE??" while grabbing guns. I don't understand what's going on and am just trying to bulldoze my way inside to get away form the scary roof and wind....which of course makes the guys think even more that there's a bear chasing me. It was all quite exciting. Everyone had some adrenaline pumping then.

    That evening I kept pestering the pilot and my boss about their estimates for wind speed. I was secretly wondering what this cabin could withstand. How well was it constructed? Are the posts actually set in the permafrost? Do the sleeping quarters actually have a proper roof or am I going to awaken to the roof being ripped off and me staring at the snow storm above my bunk?? I tell ya, I did not sleep well that night listening to the wind howl and the cabin rattle. Great, just great. Our shelter gets blown away in a snowstorm in polar bear land.

    The cabin survived and so did I. Though, we had to dig our way out of the front door. About 3 feet of snow had blown against our door. Then, finding the generator was a bit of a challenge. Had to use a probe to located it and then dig it out. It had to sit and dry for a half of a day or so. Retrieving water became impossible because all the creeks and gullies were drifted in. I spent hours for the next few days gathering and melting snow for water. Very inefficient method I quickly learned. Plus, because the winds were so fierce, the snow was filled with silt and dirt. Hard to get pure, clean snow. Nevertheless, I was able to melt enough snow to keep us good for a few days until the snow melted a bit and we could get to some streams.

    Everyone was very happy to be free to leave the cabin.
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