Esparles to Deia

Leaving Esparoles is hard. It's a gorgeous town, as Talat discovered the night before. In the morning, I wake early already exhausted and already excited for the next day. This is the first medium day: 19km. Yesterday was only 13km, yet I get distracted by beautiful things and it time forget to cover the 13km. Today there are two peaks-or more if you go looking, one town where most people take lunch, and about 1000 hm, total, up.

The morning is sunny and bright. The route starts from the turn, yet I get lost in the way to the trail. Once I reach the woods, I begin the wrong trail. There are too many roads and people. Where is the trail? To the left maybe? I wander into a sunny Farmers field where sheep try to give me directions. The pigs don't care and wander off. I think pigs are pretty smart animals so I follow their example and wander off as well.

Eventually, about an hour in, I meet up with Route 221. It's not a trail at all, but a road going up a hill. Good enough.

Eventually this road enters the hills and becomes a real trail. There's a peak, and a view. I find a walking stick to ease my sure foot, yet it slows me down as well. There is a rhythm to having a walking stick that suits me, yet the slow speed does not. I distract myself by wandering off trail for better views.

These mountains are low, but the only ones around. Standing on them feels like standing on the world, or having a look into the back room design lab of gorgeous landscapes. It's a bit like places I've been but also not at all something I've ever seen before. I continue on, but the walk is mostly down hill.

Then, it's Valldemossa. It's after noon, barely, and theres a bar that serves beer. Perfect! I sit and sip a beer instead of my water. This may be the best way to save water and be ecologically friendly I know of.

When it's time to go again, I post my bill and head straight through the city. The way to the trail is simple and clear, and do is the trail. I find a guide near a nature preserve telling visitors of the many paths in the area. He tells me the path is clear and simple to the peak, and that I will need to walk the ridge until I see Deia. Once I see Deia he says I just need to walk to it. Simple.

So I walk. The way is shady and the path is clear. Perfect for afternoon stroll in the heat after a beer. The views are stunning as I walk around the mountain, slowly going higher and higher.

I reach the ridge and wander off trail to enjoy a better view. It's breathtaking. I am not yet at the top yet there is nothing between me and views of Palma and the ocean on the other side of the island. I can see forever from here!

Then it's time to return to the trail, but in the ridge there is no clear path, only stones. I spend too much time with my GPS yet it guide me to the peak, where two people walk their dog to the top.

The top is sunny and warm and windy. There really is nothing except the view and clear blue skies. Deia looks close enough that I can throw a ball and hit it, and I am ready for the end of my day. Two peaks is enough for today.

Yet the way down is not clear. I wander off the path quickly, and not on purpose. GPS shows me a path that I have already passed and now cannot reach without heading backward, so I head forward thinking I will find a better one.

I find two lost Germans instead. I do not find a Walking path, but a climbing wall down. It does not look hard, but it is steep so I drop my bag first and climb down to it. There is nothing between me and the view here. It is beautiful too stand in the wall of the mountain, yet also terrifying. Climbing with my bag is difficult, my balance is off when I wear it, yet there is not always a place to drop it down, so I continue. Thank goodness for sticky liguano shoes, that help me climb walls ordinary hiking boots do not!

The way becomes more even, yet it takes forever to find the trail. When I do find it, I bring marks and scratches from wandering through woods with no trail. I am exhausted from climbing at the end of a hiking day and convinced I have lost time going the wrong way, yet when I check my GPS I'm right on schedule. Thank goodness!

It's a quick walk to Deia from here, and the hostel tonight. On the way I find two Germans who also came down from the peak, yet on the actual trail. They are still exhausted and worn out from the trip, and have a bus to catch toward the next city and hostel.

Tonight, I'm very glad I don't. I find the hostel and have a beer. Today I earned it.Read more