South Africa

February 2019
Two weeks on the road with Fuffi.
Started in Johannesburg, drove to the Kruger National Park, flew to Capetown an finally reached Port Elisabeth.
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  • Day 2

    Pretoria

    February 10, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    First day in South Africa - Pretoria

    The day started finding Francesca in the queue of the passport controls, which was a very pleasant surprise, since the queue was very long and the airport very big!
    Getting the car was a real adventure! After a very long queue, the guy tried first to give us the wrong car!
    Driving was easier than expected, and I got used to it quite fast!

    After checking in at the Hotel 224 in Pretoria m, we took a shower, made a plan for the afternoon and then directly out in the street!

    The experience in the city was not as expected! The city is chaotic, very noisy, dirty and gives a huge feeling of danger! People often stared at us, made comments about us and talked loud. We took dinner at KFC, the cash had a cage in front of it to divide the staff from the clients!!!

    We decided it was best to get home before darkness and spend the evening safe at the hotel!
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  • Day 3

    Cradle of human kind - Botanical Garden

    February 11, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Second day in South Africa - Pretoria
    Alarm set for 7.45. A huge expensive breakfast waits for us downstairs in the hotel. The room is full of young teenage boys from a sport team in Argentina. We decide to sit and have our breakfast outside, in the “peaceful” garden where you can hear the car running outside, the loud minivan carrying around people and the people talking loudly in the streets.

    After breakfast we pick up our bags and we are ready to drive to the cradle of humankind! Huge expectations and tons of energies with us.
    The drive is easy and pleasant, we put some music. The roads are large and straight. At some point it starts raining heavily and we are happy to be inside the car.

    We arrive to the caves and we are welcomed by the guide that invites us to buy the tickets and start visiting a small museum dedicated to the human history and than start the tour of the caves at 11.00
    The museum brought us back to primary school, learning the different kind of “homos” and observing the creation of the earth.

    At 11.00 we start the tour. The guide is a funny guy that tells a lot of interesting stories about the Stone Age, about the anatomy of the first men, about the explorers that found the fossils. The caves themselves are not that interesting. The only remarkable part is a 60 meters underground lake that according to the guide is longer than 50km and no one knows how deep it is.

    After the visit at the caves we move to the museum. A perfect experience for families with children, we found it a bit useless.
    A trip on a boat (amusements park alike) explains you how the earth was created, and after that an exposition teaches you everything about Stone Age and evolution. In the middle of the exhibition the electricity shout down. Everyone stayed calm, put out their phone and lamps and kept visiting the museum. We wondered if that’s something they are used to. We looked around a bit worried, nobody came to say something about the electricity. We kept going around, but soon enough we got bored and tired and we left the museum.

    We are now back in the car, direction: botanical garden.
    Once there we immediately look for lunch, is now 3pm and we don’t eat anything since breakfast. We find a small bar with tables under big trees and a lot of little birds jumping around. We order a sandwich and a big smoothie.
    Happy and recovered after the food, we start exploring the park. We are looking for Tassies, small chubby animals that live in this area. We found tons of them walking around and enjoying the sun. We manage to take a lot of pictures.
    The garden is nice! There is a waterfall and a lot of plants and birds.

    After checking the garden out from our list, we move to the shopping center where the Hard Rock Cafe is situated. Fuffi collects her t-shirt and we buy a 5 liters bottle of water for the trip of tomorrow.

    Is now time to decide the plan for the evening. We would like to go some nice place to have a walk or to drink something, but we are a bit scared by the experience of yesterday. We decide to check the area of the university by car. We drive around for a long time, in the end we find a street with some restaurants and bars. We decide to leave the car in a guarded parking and then we go exploring. My head is now exploding for headache, I’m tired and not hungry. The place apparently has only fast foods that don’t look so interesting.
    In the end we find a bar decorated with hearts for valentine that seems quite fancy and upper class to be safe enough.
    We enter for a cocktail and we order some appetizer. The cocktails are really nice, the food is good and the boy that serves us is really nice and interested in our trip and our life in Europe. He chat with us a while and says that he hopes we will meet again. Happy and tired we go back to the hotel. Is now time for a shower, some phonecalls and a good night of sleep.
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  • Day 4

    Pretoria - Graskop

    February 12, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Is fuffi’s first drive, and it's our first day entirely on the road. The first two hours pass quickly in the highway, listening to music and observing the surroundings.

    After we leave the highway, the street becomes smaller and smaller and we start finding more and more works on the road and trucks carrying materials for building.
    The road goes with terrain ground and after a few hours we start being tired and we find extremely funny to drive in a road like this.

    Suddenly, the road ends and we arrive in the city where we had planned to take the lunch. The city is actually a one street village than only have restaurants and shops for people that pass by on the road.

    It’s now my turn to drive. The road starts going up and up in the mountains and the view is incredible! After some driving we reach a point where we wanted to have a look to a waterfall that was supposed to be pretty. It was basically nothing.
    We decide to look for more attractions in the area before going to Graskop, our next checkpoint. We find some other waterfalls called Mac Mac Waterfalls that look cool and we decide to give it another chance.

    The view is actually very nice. It is possible to see the waterfall from the other side of the mountain and have a complete overview.

    After spending some time at the waterfalls we drive to Graskop. The village is very small and we are very excite since we heard that here there are the best pancakes in the country and we are craving them since the beginning of the trip. Unfortunately the guy at the reception of our hotel informs us that the pancake place is already closed. Sad and disappointed we reach our room and look for another place to eat. We notice that google indicates that the place that does pancakes actually closes at 18.00. It is 17.20. We decide to give it a chance and we run to the place that is just one street ahead our hotel.
    The place is open but the waitresses are already cleaning and preparing for closing. Convincing them to serve us some pancakes is not easy, but somehow we manage! We sit in a corner table and have a look at the menu. Fuffi decides to take a salty pancake, while I go for a lemon meringue pancake with icecream. An incredible experience! A huge pancake, so soft and fluffy filled with a smooth sauce made of lemon and meringue. We eat and enjoy and are so thankful!

    Back at the hotel the guy informs us that in the evening they will switch off electricity between 19.00 and 21.00.
    We decide to spend some time in the swimming pool before it gets dark. We spend sometime chatting observing the sky getting darker. At 19.00, all the lights go off in the village and everything is dark.

    Back to the room we wait for electricity to come back in order to take a shower, and after that we go to sleep.
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  • Day 5

    Graskop - Nelspruit

    February 13, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Today is the second day on the road! A lot is on the schedule and we have to manage to see everything before 17.00 when all the attractions will close.

    After a nice breakfast at the hotel we do the checkout and we are on the road. My turn to drive. The first view point is a place called “God’s window” that is supposed to be this incredible view on the valley. Unfortunately what we actually saw was just fog. The valley was completely covered by fog and it was impossible to see anything. Disappointed we move to the next place, hoping that the sky will open and that we will be more lucky.
    Next stop is a place called “the pinnacle” a huge stone in the middle of the canyon covered by forest trees. The weather is still foggy and humid, but the view from here is much much better and there is a lot to enjoy. The pinnacle itself it is not so special, but next to it there is a huge waterfall that is possible to cross and to see from many different angles. We go for a short dangerous hike on the top of the canyon, walking on stones and cliffs and we enjoy the incredible view taking tons of pictures.
    Now satisfied we move to the next stop. “Berlin waterfalls”, very pretty! A small hike takes close to the water and allows really cool pictures. After that, other waterfalls called “Lisbon” less incredible than the first ones but still quite impressive.
    After a morning of waterfalls is now time to go to the canyon. The first step is a very big touristic attraction with a large river crossing the canyon where is possible to go inside the water with the feet and do short hikes around the canyon and the river. We spend here a lot of time, we relax, enjoy the water and even have lunch in the local restaurant.
    It is now Fuffi’s turn to drive. We will drive around the canyon stopping in many panoramic views. The landscapes and panoramas are stunning and we keep taking pictures at every corner! Even if the weather is still grey, the view is amazing and the colors are bright and magic.
    We finish the tour that is almost 17.00 and it is now time for a quite long drive to get to Nelspruit, our next checkpoint. The drive is long and difficult, there are points where the fog is so thick that we have to look at the gps to see where we are going, points where it rains so hard that it is impossible to see anything. The roads are narrows and small. We drive slow and we are tired. The rain never stops. When we finally get to Nelspruit we discover that our hotel is a small familiar guest house in the middle of the forest. Is cute, but doesn’t sound safe at all. Nelspruit is very close to Kruger, where Malaria is still a quite big issue, and the place doesn’t have air conditioning, it is dirty and humid. When a mosquito bites Fuffi she gets a panic attack that makes us decide to go to another hotel. We apologize with the owner, we leave her the money for the night and for the dinner and we look for another place. We find another place called “amigos” that seems safer. After check-in we go to eat something at the mall. Grilled meat, tasty and soft even if we are a bit tired of grilled stuff.
    Back at the hotel we discover a huge insect in the room, it takes ages to get rid of it! The night goes slow and uncomfortable. We are scared that other insects are in the room and we are worried for what will expect us in Kruger.
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  • Day 6

    Day one in Kruger

    February 14, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ 🌧 24 °C

    In the morning we are up early and we decide to take the road and start going to Kruger. It’s a one and a half hour driving where every now and then there is a sign saying “attention hypos crossing” “attention lions crossing”. We arrive at crocodile gate, fill the form and enter the reserve.
    Immediately we start seeing pumbas, giraffes, zebras and impalas. The view is stunning and we take tons of pictures. We even see rhinos, our first Big 5! The road is without asphalt and the car goes slow, but is fine, we have so much to see and so many pictures to take! Enthusiastic, we arrive at the lodge that is almost noon. They welcome us with a drink, show us the schedule, our room and tell us that lunch will be at 13.00.
    We enjoy our fantastic room, very elegant and satisfying and we take a walk in the lodge. There are monkeys, impalas and pumbas inside the gates and at some point a green snake falls in front of us from a tree!

    We go for lunch and the food is incredibile! We get to eat one of the best steaks of our life and we decide not to wonder what kind of meat is that. Beef that is just cooked in a really nice way or some other animal?
    After lunch we take a siesta and I finally manage to sleep a bit after the night in Nelspruit.

    At 16.00 is time for the first game! Our guide Texan introduces us to the car and the rules for the drive. We are 7 people, a German couple and a German family with two teenagers and a 7 yo kid. It will be us for the rest of the stay. Me and Fuffi get a seat in the back of the car, the highest point, and we get ready for the hunt!
    Texan takes us for narrow roads in the middle of the forest, crosses grass and water and a lot of different environments. We see giraffes, zebras, impalas, a young elephant, rhinos and lions! The lions moment was incredible! Fuffi spotted one lioness in the grass and Texan went closer with the car, leaving the road and going in the middle of the grass. While we get closer we realize that there are many more lionesses that are resting with full bellies. We spend a lot of time there, in silence taking pictures and observing the animals that chill and look at us curious. They are not scared or worried, they don’t seem interested in us. They keep resting and rolling in the grass as we were not there. The moment is magic.
    Before ending the game we stop in a quiet place and have a break with beer and popcorn in the middle of the savana! When it gets dark we head off to the lodge.
    After the first game is now time for dinner. We are not hungry. They gave us food for all the day and we didn’t do much activity considered we were in the car all the time. We eat something and then we go back to our room.
    The shower of the room is outside in a hidden corner connected to the bathroom by a door window. I take my shower outside. The weather is chilly and humid and the contrast with the warm water is very relaxing.
    It is now time to bed. The alarm tomorrow will be at 5.00 for the game at dawn.
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  • Day 7

    Day 2 in Kruger

    February 15, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    5.00 is time to wake up.
    Enthusiastic even is still sleepy we get ready for the second game! We take a quick tea and then we get in the car.
    We go to see hippos and crocodiles in the river and then we go around in the savana looking for animals. We see a elephant with her kid, a leopard and a group of young lions waiting for the lioness to bring food. The savana is an amazing place and Texan is really good in catching signals of the animals and the environment. He manages to spot the leopard observing the behavior of the impalas that were in alert and all looking in one direction.

    The rest of the day goes exactly like the day before, with the game in the evening where we manage to see male lions and we have to deal with an elephant that doesn’t want to let us pass in the road. We also spotted a family of rhino with a kid that Texan said was one week old!

    We go to sleep early and amazed by everything we have seen during the day!
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  • Day 8

    Day 3 in Kruger

    February 16, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    It is the day of departure and even if it feels like we have seen a lot and it is time to move on, it is a bit sad to leave this incredible place where we got so spoiled and we saw so many incredible things!

    The game in the morning goes fast and even if it is incredible as always, it is a bit disappointing because we didn’t manage to see the Buffalo that was the last big5 we were missing. On the other hand we managed to see a big group of cheetahs relaxing in the grass!

    After the ride and the breakfast is time to checkout. We buy some souvenirs, say goodbye to Texan and jump on our car. We have a long drive back to Johannesburg in front of us.

    The drive goes smoothly and soon is time to say goodbye to our first car. It is now dirty and we got attached to it. We leave the car at the airport and we go to the hotel.
    Tomorrow we have the flight to Cape Town.
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  • Day 9

    Day one in Cape Town

    February 17, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    The flight to Cape Town goes fast and easy, and soon it is time to get our second car! This time a Ford Fiesta that we like immediately.

    We go directly to the hotel because we want to have time later to explore the city.

    The hotel is nice and clean and gives a familiar idea of “hostel” even if it is not.

    Immediately we go exploring starting from the botanical gardens on the bottom of Table Mountain. We take lunch in a pretty restaurant in the middle of the park and then we go walking around. All the tourists that we didn’t see in Pretoria are now here and we feel more comfortable going around. The main attraction of the park is a tree bridge built on top of trees that gives a really nice view on the park and the city.

    After the botanical garden we move to Table Mountain. What an experience!!! A cable car turning 365 degrees takes people to the top of the mountain giving amazing view of the city and of the nature of the mountain. We stay on the top for a long time, taking pictures of the panorama, hiking around and looking at Dessies. We stay there until sunset and the view is stunning!

    When it gets dark a huge alarm informs tourists that is time to take the cable car back. Sadly we go back to the bottom and we go looking for food. We decide to go in the area of Hard Rock Cafe, ti buy t-shirt and have dinner. Finally we find a nice restaurant selling fish instead of the usual steak and we enjoy our prawns and fish a lot!

    We take a walk in the area, Fuffi buys her t-shirt and we go back to the hotel! It is so late compared to the other days! Happy and satisfied by the city and the sun we go to sleep.
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  • Day 10

    Day two in Cape Town

    February 18, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Today we have the entire day in the city!
    We wake up a bit later, tired after so many days waking up really early, and we start the day having a discussion with the owner of the hotel because according to him breakfast is not included. Tired of discussing he allows us to have breakfast but we decide that tomorrow we will have breakfast somewhere else.
    We start the day with a walk to the city center where we plan to join a walking tour of the city. We stopped by a market that sells really nice clothes and stuff and we end up buying skirts and souvenirs.

    The tour starts at 11.00 and I find it very enjoyable. There is not much to see actually, the buildings are not so special and the city doesn’t have much touristic attractions, but te guide gives a really nice review of the story of Cape Town describing different places and stories of people who participated to history.
    After the tour we go to see this part of the city that is representative for the collided houses. Here lived colonialists in the past, became after a area where blacks people lived during apartheid and it is today a symbol of equality.

    Free visiting the district we hurry to get to the boat that will take us to Robben Island, the prison where Nelson Mandela spent a part of his detention.
    We manage to eat something before going on the boat.
    In the harbor we spot many seals resting in the sun!
    The boat takes around 20 minutes to arrive at the island. From there we take a bus with a guide that describes the different areas of the island and tells stories about the prison and the time where the island was a place where they sent people with lebbra.
    After the bus tour we join a walking tour inside the prison. The guide is a former prisoner that with a lot of charm and passion tells about his story and the story of people he met in prison.
    I loved the tour and especially the stories of the former prisoner!

    Back in the city we spend the evening in the harbor, taking pictures of the sunset. We have dinner in a restaurant on the sea and the food is really good!
    After dinner we spend sometime in the shops with souvenirs and then we go home walking.
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  • Day 11

    Cape of Good Hope

    February 19, 2019 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    In the morning we leave the hotel with another discussion about the payment of the bill, and we head to Cape of Good Hope.
    It is not a very long drive and it’s very enjoyable. We get there and we discover that the place is very big and has a lot of different paths. We start from a side path that goes up to the mountain to see Cape of good hope from a distant point, and then we move to the other path to walk to the historical light house. The path is incredible and we stop every second to take pictures! On the way back we even buy some souvenirs.
    Funny fact: a baboon stole my water and I got really scared! Fuffi said “if we were in a cartoon you would have jumped on me like Scooby doo”. The monkey came close to me, tried to take the water, I jumped and threw the water to her, but she would not stop, she went to Fuffi that gently passed the bottle to the monkey, and then monkey was happy, took the water and left me with a trauma.

    After Cape of good hope we had to hurry in order to go to see the colony of penguins. With one hour driving we were in boulders beach!
    The colony was huge!!! Thousand of penguins living their lives without caring at all about us being there watching them and taking pictures of them!
    In the beach next to boulders beach it is possible to bathe, and that’s where we did our first bath! Together with penguins!

    We stayed at the beach until the sun went down, then we picked an icecream and prepared ourselves for a long drive to Gordon’s bay.
    On our way there we got stuck on the street because of a huge event that was going on in a small village. We had to change our path and take a highway that was not recommended and that made us arrive at Gordon’s bay tired and stressed.

    Luckily at the hotel the landlady was really nice, warmed up some food for us that we took in the room and we could rest properly getting ready for the day after!
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