Master of the Nets

Su Zhou was the capital of one of the seven ancient kingdoms of China. Ancient travelers said, “There is paradise, and beyond that there is Su Zhou.” Even though its kingdom was later incorporated into larger China, this small city of 10 million people became a paradise on earth for “The Humble Administrator,” “The Master of the Nets,” and other noblemen who built their palaces and gardens here. Glorious flowers, peaceful lakes, and remarkable monoliths grace these estates. Huge, abstract stone ornaments in gardens became fashionable simply because the stones were taken from the bottom of a lake considered the most beautiful in China. Their extraction before the days of mechanization was arduous, dangerous and expensive. Merely having one of these huge rocks in one’s garden testified to the wealth and status of the owner. The status of the city was further enhanced by the construction of the Grand Canal that extended from Shanghai all the way to Beijing. We took a boat ride along a portion of the canal and marveled at the many homes and temples from the sixteenth century that still overlook the waters. Following our boat ride on the canal, we enjoyed an elegant meal that featured not only familiar Chinese favorites, such as Kong Pao Chicken, and Sweet and Sour Pork, but also a new experience for me, silver needle fish. We finished the day visiting a silk factory. I got to touch young silk worms as they ate their dinner of mulberry leaves. We saw workers extract a 1.5 mile-long thread of silk from one cocoon. On display were colorful quilts, elegant silk prints, and beautiful silk clothing. A two-hour bus ride returned us to Shanghai in time for the laser sound and light show, bouncing intense colors from the gaudy facades of some of Asia’s tallest architectural wonders. The patriotic sounds of China’s military bands led a million marchers through the streets and along the Bund as Shanghai continues to celebrate the seventieth anniversary of the founding of the People’s Republic of China.Read more