Southern Africa

June - July 2017
A 18-day adventure by Jacalyn Read more
  • 17footprints
  • 4countries
  • 18days
  • 119photos
  • 1videos
  • 9.7kmiles
  • 9.3kmiles
  • Day 1

    Almost packed!

    June 23, 2017 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Getting ready to leave tomorrow for a 17 day South African Adventure. Can't wait! Now I just have to make sure I can fit all my stuff in a 24x12 suitcase!

  • Day 3

    The Journey

    June 25, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ 🌙 8 °C

    Had an easy 6.5 hour flight to Amsterdam. Watched MANY episodes of my favorite Netflix show. Love the obligatory laziness! Had a 4 hour layover in the Schiphol Airport and spent it thinking about sleep but not actually doing it. For us it was the middle of the night, but we had a long flight ahead and wanted to sleep on that flight!
    11 hours later we landed in Cape Town, South Africa (after many more hours of Netflix of course! Oh, and 5 hours of sleep).
    Grety (my mom's first cousin) and her husband, Siggy, picked us up at the airport and drove us back to their house in Camp's Bay. Beautiful home! We caught up for a couple of hours over a cup of tea and then went to sleep. We are sleeping in their daughter, Tanya's room (who is married and lives very close by) though the room is more of a hotel room and is lovely.
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  • Day 4

    Tourist in South Africa

    June 26, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Woke up at 8 and had a lovely breakfast with Grety, Siggy, mom and dad at the house. We bought tickets for the tram up to Table Mountain and Grety dropped us off there (only 5 minutes away). The views from Table Mountain were clear and beautiful. It's 60 degrees and sunny here (tough African winter!)
    Grety and Siggy picked us up. We headed to lunch at Wang Thai Lagoon Beach restaurant because, of course, it's only natural that our first South African meal would be in a Thai restaurant! It was very good. We walked along the beach for a few minutes and then drove back to the house. Grety, Ken, mom and I went to the water front to check out both outdoor and indoor shops. The area is very nice. It's amazing to sit in a mall and to barely be able to tell you're in another country! Between the English speakers, diverse population (mostly Caucasian, as it turns out, in Cape Town) and familiar stores (H&M, Body Shop, Under Armour, Nike, Limited etc...) we could be sitting in any US city.
    After a drink at the house, we went to dinner at Ocean Basket for casual seafood.
    And the absolute highlight of the evening: after I posted the link to this blog today, I got a message from a friend I haven't seen in over 15 years who worked with me at Michigania in '94. Andie lives in Australia and not only is in South Africa but is in Camps Bay. And, as it turns out, is not only in Camps Bay, but is renting a house less than a 1/2 mile from Grety and Siggy's! So after dinner we joined Andie and her husband Chris, along with their good friend's Rob and Heather, for drinks at their rental. We had a great time and are so grateful for the amazing technology that allowed us to reconnect!
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  • Day 5

    Cape Point

    June 27, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Woke up at 8 and tired! But had breakfast and then set out to, wait for it, FIND PENGUINS! 🐧 We went to Boulders Beach in Table Mountain National Park and watched the African Penguins in their natural habitat. A great site! Next we ate lunch at, and had a tour of, an ostrich farm. The ostrich below is only 7 weeks old! Ostrich have the 2nd toughest leather (2nd only to kangaroo). And their eyes are bigger than their brain. When the staff take the female's egg away to incubate it, she forgets she laid one so does it again...
    We drove across the street into Table Mountain National Park. We started our visit at Cape Point where we took a funicular up to the lighthouse for some beautiful views of the Indian and Atlantic Oceans. Ken, Siggy and I walked down (about 10 minutes) and then we drove to the Cape of Good Hope (the Southwestern most point of Africa) where we took an obligatory picture with the sign. We drove the 1.5 hours home from there (but managed to see a couple of wild ostrich and a herd of Eland Antelopes on the way out of the park and then several Bontebok - another antelope type- on the side of the road).
    Grety made us some pizzas and salad for dinner and we relaxed at the house in the evening. Watched the latest Jason Bourne movie.
    Looking forward to a very full night of sleep!
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  • Day 6

    Wine Country

    June 28, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We left the house at 11 and drove first to Stellenbosch (about 45 minutes away). Stellenbosch is the oldest city in South Africa - founded by the Dutch in 1670. The streets are beautiful with all white washed buildings and oak tree lined streets. It is now a university town.
    Next we drove to Franschhoek (French Corner) town in the midst of wine country. We had a delicious lunch at Cafe Bon Bon in the La Petite Dauphin. (I had a pumpkin and sage pasta). We were honored by the presence of the resident rooster, Hendrik. What a treat! Beautiful wine farm, even in 'winter'.
    We stopped at another winery - Mont Rochelle (owned by Richard Branson). Ken got a red wine sampling.
    And then we went to one more winery known as Spice Root for chocolate tasting. We tasted about 12 different types of chocolate. Now that's my kind of tasting!
    We drove an hour home. It is interesting that nearly 90% of the vehicles here are white given the high summer heat.
    We had a light dinner of cold cuts, cheese, and breads and, of course, more chocolate (purchased earlier in the day) for dessert. Watched some tv and then to bed. 😊 Nice day!
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  • Day 7

    Constantia Winelands

    June 29, 2017 in South Africa ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Lazy morning - slept in until 9 and left the house around noon. We drove through Hout Bay up to Chapman's Peak and saw a couple of whales on the way. Views from Chapman's Peak were beautiful. Next we drove to Constantia Glen, a stunning winery within Cape Town. We ate lunch overlooking hills of planted fields. I shared a very nice cheese and charcuterie board with Ken and dad. We made a short stop at the nearby Groot Constantia which is the Manor where Cape Town's first governor lived. Fairly little to see here and quite cool and windy.
    We drove home at 3:30pm to relax before a 7:30 dinner. For me that meant a long nap. Ken walked with Siggy and their dog, Bailey.
    We had a great dinner at Il Leone Mastrantonis, a charming Italian restaurant, with Grety and Siggy's daughter and son in law, Tanya and Dan. Tanya is my 2nd cousin as our grandfather's were brothers.
    Tomorrow, off to Botswana. 😊
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  • Day 8

    Cape Town to Maun, Botswana

    June 30, 2017 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

    We had a nice departure breakfast with our gracious hosts before heading to the airport at 8am. As we left Grety told Siggy she'd see him 'just now.' This, we've learned, is South African for 'in awhile.' Apparently, 'now, now' is now but imminently and 'now' is just happened. Whew! Foreign languages are tricky! 😂Our flight left right on time at 10:30am and landed 2 hours later at the small airport in Maun. Our next flight was scheduled to leave at 2:40 though schedules are flexible depending on timing of previous connecting flights. As we walked through security, we were greeted by our pilot. Now you don't see that everyday! We went from a 40 seater earlier in the day to a whopping 12 seater flight to get to our first safari camp - Belmond's River Khwai Lodge in the Kwhai River concession near the Moremi Game Reserve. Our lodging is beautiful. We met our guide, Sello (the same guide mom and dad had 3.5 years ago when they were here - intentionally) and went out on a game drive and had an ideal first game drive - impalas, red lechwe (water impalas), zebra, elephant, giraffe, lilac breasted rollers (beautiful bird), and the piece de resistance, a mother leopard with her 1 month old baby. Pictures below (with my cell phone) are not nearly as good as with my camera but give a good sense of what we saw.
    We had a lovely meal back at the lodge and then relaxed in our room.
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  • Day 9

    Safariing

    July 1, 2017 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    I know, not a word, but appropriate none the less! I'm sitting here, having afternoon 'tea' (with delicious lemon glazed cookies!), watching an elephant and listening to grunting hippos from the dining area of our lodge. It is quiet and peaceful and I couldn't be more content!
    We woke at 6am to the delivery of coffee, tea and crackers. Breakfast was at the lodge though Ken and I were late because we thought we had an extra 1/2 hour. Ah well. A quick bite later, we left with Sello for a game drive. We saw an adorable giraffe mom and baby and then joined many other safarians (I know, not a word again...) to hunt for a pack of wild dogs which we found! Very exciting since there are only 500 wild dogs in Botswana. They are skilled hunters with a nearly 100% kill rate when they are tracking prey. And they are ugly!
    We stopped for coffee and biscuits in the bush, aside our safari van, tablecloth and glassware included. Afterwards, we noticed another safari van had fallen into an 'elephant hole' - front left tire in the water and front right tire not even touching the ground! Luckily no one was hurt! Our guide, and another helped use their trucks to pull the other truck out.
    Then we headed back to the lodge for an afternoon 'siesta.' We each had a 30 minute massage included in our stay, which dad opted not to use, but mom, Ken and I each had ours during that time. We all chose a simple head, neck and hand massage. It was awesome! We had a nice buffet lunch of vegetable chili over jasmine rice. Then we relaxed at our tent after lunch and got our own safari viewing from our porch. We saw elephants, hippos and lechwe along with some very pretty birds. Tea time was at 3.
    We left for our 2nd safari of the day at 3:30. Our luck continued! We saw a 2 hour old lechwe who could barely stand, elephants that walked right next to us (and I mean - heart racing close!), African ground hornbills (that apparently don't usually like to be watched), a beautiful saddle-billed stork, a troop of baboons with a tiny baby in tow, a male and female kudu and those tenacious African dogs again.
    We stopped in the bush for a sunset drink and snack and then drove to, what's called the 'Boma'. The Boma is a dinner held twice a week on the Kwhai River lodge property where guests eat outside around a fire and have a buffet meal. Food was decent but not great. The staff sang traditional Botswana songs after dinner. As we were walked back to our rooms (guests must be accompanied by a staff member to walk around at night) we found 2 hippos right behind mom and dad's cabin. Luckily they weren't in the slightest bit interested in us as I understand they are incredibly dangerous if at all provoked.
    Tomorrow, we get to do it all again! 😊
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  • Day 10

    In search of the king of the jungle

    July 2, 2017 in Botswana ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We heard lions last night with their short snoring like sounds, far from the lion roars you were taught as a child! After breakfast, at 7:30, we drove in the direction of the calls. From near our camp, we could see the lions, far across the river that our tents look onto. Sello told us it would take 45 minutes to get there and whether they would be there when we got there was anyone's guess. It was a risk we were willing to take. A lion hunting, we went! 🦁😊 We found 2 adult male lions resting and, soon after we showed up, they got up and walked away. We tracked one of them for awhile but never got as close again.
    After lunch (pasta with beef stroganoff) we had a lovely rest at the tent.
    We left for our afternoon safari after 'tea'. There was a group of vervet monkeys playing around (and in!) the dining area.
    No more big cats for us today, but we did get to see
    many hippos charging into the water, wart hogs, steenbok, dwarf mongoose, water buck, kudu, and multiple male elephants. We tried for a night game drive but it was long, cold (about 50 degrees but colder in moving vehicle) and unsuccessful.
    Now, back at the lodge having dinner (yummy chicken Kiev for me 😊) and will pack up before bed so we will be ready to leave after a quick game drove in the morning.
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  • Day 11

    From one terrain to another

    July 3, 2017 in Botswana ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    After another delicious chocolate muffin for breakfast (for me anyway), we went out on a truncated game drive. 7:30 to 10:15 we searched for new species and cats, but luck was not on our side this morning. We saw, the now typical, zebra, impala and elephants with some more warthogs and dwarf mongoose for good measure. We said goodbye to Sello. (tip: $20/person/day is standard for the guide. We gave $10/person/day for rest of staff).
    By 10:40 we were on the 12 seater plane, headed for Eagle Island, another Belmond resort in the Kalahari desert of Botswana.
    Eagle Island Lodge is in the center of the Okavango Delta where the mighty Okavango River drains into the Kalahari. The Lodge was recently remodeled and is stunning! Our tent has a plunge pool (the water is too cold for me though), an indoor and outdoor shower, real windows and a view to rival any! The channels of water up to our deck are an easy path for any hippo, and there is evidence of elephant throughout the lodge grounds. While relaxing on our deck, I heard bleating and found a baby bush buck right next to our tent.
    We went on a sunset barge trip with our guide, Onx. He is actually the Belmond environmental manager and is in charge of all the safaris and guides for the 3 Belmond camps. He was mom and dad's guide 3.5 years ago when they were here and loved him. Mom requested he guide us which he agreed to do, even though he doesn't guide anymore.
    We saw a few elephant and hippo. It's unbelievable how fast hippos can move in the water! The sunset was beautiful.
    Now dinner at the lodge and then our escort back to the tent to relax before a full day tomorrow. 😊
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