France to Spain 2019

May 2019 - April 2024

Motorhome adventure to northern Spain via French Atlantic coast Read more

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Traveler France to Spain 2019
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- Jun 7, 2019
- ⛅ 15 °C
- Altitude: 470 m
- Spain Navarre Ezcabarte Oricáin 42.85708, -1.6229842°51’25” N 1°37’23” W
Day 13
Over the Pyrenees
June 7, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
4 wheel adventure today rather than 2. The overnight rain and thunder cleared to leave a good day for crossing the mountains. The pass we chose was quiet and a little less high than some of the the others but it was still a buttock--clenching, toe-curling journey mostly in second gear, once or twice in first. The van wheezed and stuttered over the top after about an hour of climbing steep hairpins and there was a cyclist reading the map at the top......respect. The wind was so strong we struggled to open the van doors to get out for a look.
We sailed down the Spanish side and came to rest just outside Pamplona. Ready for a bike into the city along the river tomorrow.Read more
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- Jun 8, 2019
- ☀️ 17 °C
- Altitude: 470 m
- Spain Navarre Ezcabarte Oricáin 42.85706, -1.6230142°51’25” N 1°37’23” W
Day 14
Pintxos in Pamplona
June 8, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C
We set off from the campsite for the 10k ride along the river into Pamplona. We somehow managed to make an easy route difficult but arrived eventually along with many hiking pilgrims (en route to Santiago De Compostela) following the same path as us. There are clam shell markers everywhere. The city was great, easy to navigate around and there were lots of historic sights to see. Some very weird giant figures dancing in the squares. We had a great menu del dia in the city's theatre. Then we biked around gardens where there are wandering deer and peacocks in the old moats of the city walls and a dramatic 16th century citadel in the shape of a 5 pointed star.
Finished the day with wine and pintxos in a busy bar. Dad chose one with tuna, salmon, anchovies, octopus, baby eels, egg and peppers. I did not share it until he removed the baby eels....Read more
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- Jun 9, 2019
- ⛅ 17 °C
- Altitude: 454 m
- Spain La Rioja Haro Cvne 42.57814, -2.8586342°34’41” N 2°51’31” W
Day 15
La Rioja day
June 9, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
Up and away early from Pamplona to navigate the city before the traffic built up. Then out over vast plains and valleys that reminded us of our trip up from Valencia after the volcano.
The campsite in Haro was packed. Big family groups and kids everywhere. Then we discovered today is a holiday - day of the Rioja . As it's a Sunday, tomorrow is a holiday too. However we found a great spot and settled in. Life administration, laundry and research. Then as the fridge was bare and the supermarkets closed we walked into town and wandered the narrow streets eating pintxos and drinking red wine from the local bodegas. Best mushrooms we have ever eaten.
They have a festival here at the end of May where everyone throws red wine over each other...Read more
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- Jun 10, 2019
- ⛅ 12 °C
- Altitude: 454 m
- Spain La Rioja Haro Cvne 42.57808, -2.8587542°34’41” N 2°51’32” W
Day 16
Vine vine pilgrim pilgrim vine vine
June 10, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
Was a bit overcast and drizzly when we woke up - and we were a bit overcast and drizzly after our Rioja fest last night - so for penance we went on a long hilly bike ride. Out into the empty vineyards in the hills around Haro and reached our lunch stop in Nájera which is also a stop on the pilgrim route. Astounded again at the numbers and physical state of folk walking this to prove their faith. Well at least if you're on the pilgrim route you can guarantee a few open cafés.
The sun came out for our return journey as we left the walking throngs and headed back into the empty hills with the vines stretching off to the distant mountains. A suprise monastery on our return journey, with open doors and peaceful gardens was a lovely stop.Read more
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- Jun 11, 2019
- ⛅ 12 °C
- Altitude: 458 m
- Spain La Rioja Haro Cvne 42.57811, -2.8587742°34’41” N 2°51’32” W
Day 17
Where roosters crow after being roasted
June 11, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
Set off along a rather overgrown bike path to a town called St Domingo de la Calzada. Legend has it that a German boy was hanged here for a theft he didn't commit. His parents came to find him still alive (miracle). They went to tell the mayor, who said that the boy was as alive as the roast chicken on his plate. Promptly the chicken sat up and crowed (miracle).
In the cathedral they keep a live hen and rooster in a gilded cage. They change them every 15 days.
The cathedral was fascinating, with all sorts of artefacts and tombs dating back as far as the 11th century. We spent ages in there with an audioguide, and consequently missed a huge downpour (miracle). Oh and we had cracking egg and chips in a local hostelry that was full of hikers and bikers on the Camino route.. Great route home with lovely mountain views. Went via some of the bodegas on the way to have a look about. Bit too posh for us in our biking gear...Read more
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- Jun 12, 2019
- ☀️ 12 °C
- Altitude: 874 m
- Spain Castille and León Burgos Villayuda Playa fluvial Fuente del Prior 42.34131, -3.6553142°20’29” N 3°39’19” W
Day 18
Cathedral overload
June 12, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
Up and away on an empty road headed for Burgos. The Camino route ran alongside the road for most of the way and clearly there were droves of folk who had made a very early start judging by their progress. All marching along, earphones in, hopefully enjoying inner peace.
Busy campsite that got very very busy as the day went on. Where did they all come from, and where are they all going?
We jumped on our bikes and headed in to the city. Beautiful place. Dominated by the cathedral. We climbed up to a great old castle from the 9th century. Marvellous city walls, and wall gates lead to a huge square where the cathedral stands. We went inside for an audioguide. It was so opulent that it was almost obscene. Made us wonder what the poor folk made of it all back in the day. The stuff that fuels revolution ....
Best part for us was an old wooden casket supposed to contain the remains of El Cid but didn't even get a mention in the guide.
We had a glass of cold white wine in the square in the evening sun fully expecting to be charged an arm and a leg. €4 for both...Read more
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- Jun 13, 2019
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Altitude: 874 m
- Spain Castille and León Burgos Villayuda Playa fluvial Fuente del Prior 42.34135, -3.6552742°20’29” N 3°39’19” W
Day 19
Double monastery day
June 13, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Turning our backs on the throngs of camino walkers and tourists visiting the city and its cathedral we headed off in the other direction on our bikes. Very quickly completely on our own in the "big sky" countryside. Our route took us past an impressive monastery . One of the monks was sitting outside with his hood up a bit like he was on the naughty step for something...
We had a great coffee stop at the top of a hill where our only companions were a couple of Spanish bikers.
Then on out around the hills and into to an impressive headwind (the windfarms should have given the game away). Some of the descents were a bit hairy with crosswinds. We were both mindful of Chris Froome and made sure to stop before any noseblowing.
Had a picnic in a lovely small town en route, and then homeward on a cycle track (Via Verde) that runs all the way from Santander to Valencia! We even had a 600m tunnel to navigate with no lights ...
Once we got back we took a ride to see another monastery just a couple of km from the campsite. We went into this one - impressive church.
Immediately invaded by about 100 Spanish schoolchildren who swept through like a swarm of noisy locusts. Then we were left in the quiet again listening to the monks singing in the courtyard. Another one of those nearly religious moments ....Read more
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- Jun 14, 2019
- ☀️ 20 °C
- Altitude: 1,134 m
- Spain Castille and León Abejar 41.84254, -2.7804841°50’33” N 2°46’50” W
Day 20
Platinum CD reserve team
June 14, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
Set off in the van from the busy campsite in Burgos and pretty soon on quiet empty roads. We had 2 stops on our journey today. First in a beautifully preserved medieval town called Covarrubias. There was a Norwegian connection as the top banana brought back a Norwegian princess for his wastrel brother. She was so lovely her sister in laws poisoned her...
Then we went on to an 11th century monastery in Santo Domingo de Silos. Just scraped in to see the cloisters before they shut for siesta or prayers or something.
Absolutley delicious pintxos in the town square...stuffed peppers (stuffing not determined, however. Black pudding?) and chorizo sausage cooked in cider.
They told us the Gregorian monks had made a CD of their chants that had gone platinum so we went to a service in the church in the early afternoon but clearly got the B team...some old monk kept blowing his nose really loudly during the singing. We snuck out the back...
Moved on to a wooded campsite by a reservoir deep in the middle of nowhere.
Only the birds to keep us company .Read more
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- Jun 15, 2019
- ⛅ 15 °C
- Altitude: 1,132 m
- Spain Castille and León Abejar 41.84254, -2.7802341°50’33” N 2°46’49” W
Day 21
Cyclocross
June 15, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C
Restless night worrying about bears and wolves we are so deep in the woods...
Set off on a gentle 30 mile bike loop around a huge lake/reservoir nearby. Had a relaxed stop at a small village to buy picnic supplies and have a coffee. Then off we went again unaware our route was blocked crossing the dam . This meant a choice. An extra 30k or so or a rough bike path through the woods. Ian got the casting vote. Disturbing start through a herd of cows with a massive horned bull in the middle.
The surface got worse and then unridable sand and stones so it turned into a cyclo-cross event, pushing and lugging the bikes along for several more km than was good. There were no words spoken till we reached the road at last....
Then things improved. Nice picnic stop and another stretch on the Santander to Valencia bike path to finish. We are friends again now.... Scenery was beautiful.Read more
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- Jun 16, 2019, 11:11am
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Altitude: 1,071 m
- Spain Castille and León Palazuelos de Eresma Tabanera del Monte 40.93202, -4.0901440°55’55” N 4°5’25” W
Day 22
No rain on the plain...
June 16, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Moving on day today. Started with a lovely route through a spectacular canyon - Rio Lobos - where we watched huge birds of prey wheeling around on the thermals. Then on to El Burgo de Osma. We stopped for a coffee and then nearly drove on through but caught sight of the storks on the church belltower and the cathedral spires so we jumped out for a walk about. Very lively Spanish Sunday with everyone in their Sunday best drinking and eating tapas. Then on out over vast rolling plains to our stop in Segovia.Read more
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