no hurry, no worry

April - May 2019
April 2019 Read more
  • 21footprints
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  • 25days
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  • 8.8kkilometers
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  • Day 1

    es geit loooooos

    April 27, 2019 in Switzerland ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    Bhutan! I booked a trek of 10 days to Jomolhari or better said passing that sacred mountain. Since I would be sitting for hours in a plane first to Delhi I went to the gym early in the morning. My parents brought me to the trainstation. I never had so much luggage with me. We were given a huge yellow bag which i almost filled with two sleeping bags, a matress, a lot of warm clothes and also the first aid kit for all of us. That was supposed to be four people but unfortunately it was just me and Lilian because the couple that booked the tour, too had to cancel the journey. Lilian and me spoke once on the phone, we met the first time at the airport and got along right away. After getting rid of our huge bags we went for coffee. Then we were soon on the plane and we switched to white wine. Let that adventure begin!Read more

  • Day 2

    Mt. Everest

    April 28, 2019 in India ⋅ 🌫 36 °C

    We arrived later in Delhi at 1:30 since we couldn’t overfly Pakistan and had 1:15h longer. We had to go through customs and get our bag. We had again a big laugh because they looked as they were dragged through dirt. Well, yellow is a heikle color, right? After getting our visas for an hour stay at the airport if Delhi we were picked up by a very friendly guy, could relax for an hour in a lounge. That was a bizarre thing. There was also a little problem with me having Müller in the passport but Mueller on the visa for Bhutan. It is often a reason to discuss. But they let me in. If you are not Indian you need a Visa for Bhutan. Like that they control tourism. Last year 200’000 people visited that country, only 75’000 of them not Indian. They have an open border with India. We were advised to take seats on the left side to fly from Delhi to Paro because it was supposed to be the most beautiful flight. And it was. After again passing through security which was just weird being checked from a woman in something like a changing room - anyway, Lilian and me again laughed tears. We successfully boarded the plane run by Drukair. We first flew to Kathmandu getting closer and closer to the Himalayan giants. We saw approximately 5 Mt. Everests, since all of them very big but geographically it couldn’t be him/her/it yet. The French guy next to me didn’t have any idea and therefor no help in the Everest-confusion but was putting his camera to the window and excused himself all the time while doing it. So at one point I asked him if I could take the pictures so he wouldn’t lean over me all the time and I wouldn’t have to smell his bad breath. We had a quick stop in the capital of Nepal and then the mountain show really started. And there was Mt. Everest! At least I think the mountain on the picture is the real one. And if not, it is a pretty one at least so do not complain. It was a really nice flight and after a quite adventurous landing approach to Paro gliding through the valley we touched ground in Bhutan. Oh it smelled already very nice, fresh and spicy when leaving the plane (and the French guy). We were picked up by our guide, 25year old Tenzin dressed in the traditional cloth Gho and our driver Jimmy. We went right away to a temple. The temple has been built in the 7th century and is one of the oldest in Bhutan. The Bhutanese are very fond of nice clothes and it is advised to put on a nice blouse while visiting those holy sites. Well. I was still in my training trousers and I wasn’t at all wearing something just slightly similar and chic to a blouse. Let alone my fancy pink socks. You visit temples always without shoes. I felt a bit uncomfortable like I would not respecting their wishes on holy places. Luckily it didn’t seem a problem though. After that we went for a delicious lunch. Food is delicious here. I just gonna mention it once. It is also aspargus season. They are way thinner then ours and just yummy. After that we checked in in our hotel which was once a palace. I am always surprised when staying at such beautiful places because I just don’t expect it. What a view on the valley. Splendid. We were picked up in the afternoon for a walk in the town. The town is mostly a mainstreet and lives on tourism. They made the houses look pretty in the 80ies. We had something like the coffee number 10 and visited the local fruit and vegetable market. We came the way back to the hotel by foot, climbing up the little hill to see how we were doing at 2300m altitude and I went straight for a nap since I just couldn’t think straight due to exhaustion. Diner was splendid/delicious/marvelous, take the superlative you want, especially the chicken with cashew sauce, in a roundish restaurant with a view on the Dzhong, which we would visit the next day. Wonderful.Read more

  • Day 3

    Highlight

    April 29, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Today was splendid. I slept for 10h, woke up fresh and happy. How could you differently! After breakfast we went to the National Museum. They had to renovate the old building and they moved the objects to the new one. Now the renovation is almost finished but not open for visitors. But the interesting stuff is already back there. Not very logic so instead of craft and other treasures we were looking at pictures where officials from India were visiting the King. Tnezin just said we should imagine the nice stuff, that would be a reason for us to come back. Actually the room with the information about flora and fauna was interesting. Maybe if we are reallly lucky we gonna see one of the snow leopard like they did last year. Who knows!
    After the mueseum we went to the Dzong. Dzongs were fortresses against enemies, often Tibetan. Nowadays it is one side a monastery and on the other here in Paro is the court and the official stuff. Going into a Dzhong you have to wear long sleeve, the Bhutanese have to wear a scarf over their traditional dress. The king has a yellow one, the prime minister an orange one, the memebers of parliament have a blue and the head of the district a red one. There are twenty Dzongkhags, districts in Bhutan, the country being a similar size to Switzerland (roughly 39’000qm). It counts 800’000 people. They are a parlamentary constitutional monarchy. About democracy our guide Tenzin said that he doesn’t like the promises given before the election and not kept after. He kind of doesn’t mind just having the Monarchy. He told us that in the last election the prime minister promised free WIFI throughout the country. In the eastern dialect Wi means cow and Fi means house. I can imagine the disappointment.
    After visiting those two sites in Paro Tenzin decided to bring us up to Drakarpo, a temple that the guru rinpoche flew to, like to the one of Tigernest and the one we gonna visit tomorrow. I will ask Tenzin again about the story to get it right. what i remember is that he flew from the temple from tomorrow (Kila) to Drakarpo, where he either split a rock (Kar means rock) or he landed here because he saw a white stone (Kar means white). As Tenzin says, there are always to ways to tell a story. We went up there by foot, a very nice journey and from up there a wow-ish view. Believers are circling the temple clockwise to get merit. We were told that if for exampme you kill your parents, you should walk 108 times around a temple and then you are forgiven - and, Tenzin added, you have go to jail.
    We are very lucky having him as a guide. We were dropped off at the town and we went for another coffee, went shopping and then back to the palace for a royal diner. I am fully on holiday mood.
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  • Day 4

    excited

    April 30, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    We were picked up at 8. We were supposed to take our camping chairs with us. Lilian and me thought it would be for the trek tomorrow and so I also brought that heavy first aid kit with me. We realized at lunch that it was just for today. Now we understood why they were a bit puzzled me taking that big emergency bag with me. I really looked like the worried, spoiled tourist going up to 4000m and not wanting to take any risk. Very funny.
    We drove up a curvy road. And when they say curvy, it is curvy. Holymoly. In Bhutan there are 12 curves per kilometer in avarage. I think the road we took to go up to the highest asphalted street in Bhutan had at least one every 25m. And not just smooth ones. There was one u-turn after another. And how scenic! Well. Looking out was also the only option to not get sick. We arrived up there at 9:30 and it was cloudy and windy and very very nice. All those flags in the wind, it was a mystical. We went first up to the top, not to the top of the top, because there are sky burial. I’ll explain sky burial in the end, or at least how I think I understood Tenzin’s explanation in case you wann know.
    We walked down a forest to the Kila temple, where from Guru Rinpoche flew away to the one of yesterday. Amazing how those temples are biult in the rocks. There was also a nunnery. Every nunnery is run by a man. We visited the temple in the numnery. They all look similar with a lot of colors and a shrine in the middle. Tenzing praid for good weather on the trek as he did in all the temples. Let’s hope for the best.
    We were then picked up by our driver Jimmy and brought to a little green place where we had diner under some drizzle. I wanted to write that the food was delicious, but you know that already. Funny fact, the aspargus here don’t make your pee smell bad, my scientific curiosity wants to know why. Any idea?
    We continued our day with a visit to another temple and a walk down to the valley. Not wanting to change our habits, Lilian and me went for a coffee.
    Now we packed again our bags, I put everything into plastic bags (me that tries so hard in Switzerland to not use them...they are trashbags so I probably will be able to use them back home again) Anyway, my biggest ‘fear’ is to get wet. Next to freezing. Honestly, Lilian and me are bit scared of the cold. It is supposed to be -12degree in the night and we are just in tents. Let’s see how this goes and you’ll hear from me in a bit more the 10days. Woopwoop!

    Sky burial:
    For example children under 8 that died are not burnt like older people but put on a smooth stone and the vultures would eat them. It is considered that within 8years the child cannot get enough merit so it will get more through the bird. Nowadays there are not many birds around and they get eaten by dogs and other animals.
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  • Day 5

    tigresse's nest

    May 1, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ 🌬 18 °C

    So. Les jeux sont fait. It seems a bit like that because I have now all the stuff for the next 10 days and what will be missing, is missing. Until now, I am very fine. I am in my tent, my 3l-Platypus-Drinking bottle is keeping my feet warm for my first night in the tent for that trek. We will be woken up at 6:30 for a wake up tea and then some hot water for cleaning, breakfast at 7 and up we go at 8. We have approximately 21km to go tomorrow upt to 3600m. But first about today. It was again a marvelous day. We left Paro in direction to the tigers nest, the most known building from this country. And the most touristy. Still, there are not that many people but it seems almost crowded. There is a part first to go up to a cafeteria and then further to the Monastery. Tourist can take a horse for the first part. Amd they do. Mostly Asian coming from Cambodia, Thailand and Vietnam. Some are dressed for photo shooting with Gucci-Shoes. No kidding. Even though they do one half on the horse back, the other is on foot for them, too. And it is steep, actually very steep and hot. I was impressed how they managed. Not fast but they managed. Lilian and me were quite fast so we arrived before the tourist ‘mass’ up there, visited the Monastery. It is a beautiful one. Rebuilt after a devastating fire in 1998 it thrones abov the cliffs. Impressive. We went to heave, luckily not literally, climbing up to another temple with a gorgeous view on the nest. And being up there for ourselves was just adding up. After lunch in the middle station we walked down all the way with still some going up. Tenzing told us that sometimes he has to carry down women because it is too steep. Lately he had guests from Singapore that weren’t used to this kind of thing, they started at 8:30 and were back only at 17:30. We were a bit quicker and soon on the way to here (I have to look up the name) were we had four hours of blissfully nothing to do. We spent first some time outside in front of our already put up tents, drank some tea enjoying some speks of sun, mixed with some shy rain drops. As they got more insistent, we went into the tent. I again played Solitaire and listened to Podcast, being warm and confy and dry. What do I want more. Around 7 was diner and now it is 21:25 and i am looking forward for tomorrow! What a lucky girl I am!
    Oh btw, the tiger from the tiger’s nest is a female. but tigresse’s nest was too complicated for name.
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  • Day 6

    mountain goats

    May 2, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    I am sitting in the dining tent, on my belly my warm drinking bag and listening to the rain falling. What a beautiful day we had, there is just no other description. After a night where we were both hot (I kicked my drinking bottle out of the sleeping bag very quickly) we were woken up with tea. After tea came the warm water for washing, then we packed our stuff and went for breakfast. Our tents were taken care of our team, this is Phub (Thursday, because born on such a day), Nima (either sun and/or born on a Saturday) and Zando. We started to walk at around 8:20 under the already hot sun. It was sunny the whole day, we made good way under trees, rhododendrons amd angel’s hair. Going up and down, the path being rocky but easy to walk on. Our names were now definitely changes from Swiss princess to mountain goats since we were apparently fast. Even if we didn’t hurry and took many breaks for drinking in the scenery and also a lot of water. At the very Swiss time of noon we had lunch. Incredible what they serve us. Then further up until we reached the camp around 2:30, our tents already up and ready for us. Since next to a river we took our biodegradable soap and went for a foot bath. Hach. Very often in needs very little to have a perfect moment. That was one of them. Bathing the toes in the cold water, having big mountains around and the last glimpse of sunshine. Blissful. We had then coffee in the thent we had diner, read some books. I can really be lazy in such moments. Well, it is also after a 21km walk but still. It doesn’t get boring at all. Lilian and me haven’t ran out of topics yet neither, and we just had another laughing episode with tears after diner. It started to rain, it still rains now. I am in my sleeping bag and ready to sleep.
    Ah, we had just a glimpse yet on Jomolhari, it was packed in clouds. Maybe tomorrow.
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  • Day 7

    i miss the rains down in africa (odr so)

    May 3, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    So, it rains, I am again in the tent, it’s 2:30pm and we are already 1:30h in our camp. It is raining and we are supposed to see three big big mountains but maybe tomorrow. We’ll see. Since we gonna sleep for two nights here for some acclimatization reasons (we are at 4100m) we took a long time to make ourselves comfortable. We even did blow up our own mattesses, since until today, we slept o the ones privided by the trekking company (which we didn’t know were provided). So tonight I gonna sleep like the princess on the erbs. We will have coffee time at four and diner at seven, those two things will be the most exciting thing happening for the rest of the day. Oh stop, this is not true: As some of you know, we don’t plan to take the ordinary Trekking route but another one over two more passes. The last one of them is, since in between mountains still quite covered with snow. It snowed unusually heavy and often this winter. Seven times in Paro and also Thimphu when in ordinary winters it does once. Due to climate change selon Tenzing. Bhutan is the only country being not just CO2 neutral, but they have even a negative consumption. Due to water energy and a lot of trees. On our trek there are electricity poles everywhere. They built them two years ago, so the trek didn’t look pretty and tourists complained. Incredible, it is such life- quality that electricity brings. That arrogance of some to have all the luxury of what the western world can offer you but please not in those countries I as a rich tourist go to because it looks ugly. So, where was I? Oh yeah, our trek is not likely to happen how it is planned because the horses won’t be able to pass through the snow. And without the horses, we are lost. So Tenzing will have three propositions on how to continue the trek.
    Today we started a bit later, after another warm night in the tent. The weather was gray but dry. There is another group of two doing the Jomolhari and they add another on, the Laya-trek (oder so). They are from Austria. We probably gonna meet them more often. Otherwise it is quite a lonely trek. After a couple of times we reached a settlement of Nomads who were playing arrow. I just forget the right word for that sports. Anyway, it is their national sport but at the Olympic they get beaten by the Corean because Bhutanese are very laid back and therefore not so successful (Tenzings words). Aah doctors make around 25’000 Ngultrum, which is noteven 500$ a month. Highly underpaid but still happy. Good money according to Tenzing you make in the army. Bhutanese army is connected to the Indian ones (as is their currency, it is 1:1 to the Indian Rubies). So if you do career in the army to get a higher rank you go to India. And when back here you are well paid. Economically they rely a lot of tourism nowadays. There is joke in Bhutan that you are either a guide or working in a travel agency. There are 4000 guides in this country. I was wrong about the control of the tourism. They don’t, it is limited by the amount of hotel rooms and flights toand out of Bhutan. I already mentioned the Visa. You haveto pay 250$ a day to go to Bhutan. Around 200$ are left after hotel and eating, so this goes to the state for cultur, edication, infrastructure. Interesting way to do. According to our book US people stay 6.4 days, German 7 days and Swiss the longest with 10 and a bit days in avarage.
    So, we were observing the arrow thing and were having lunch at the same time. There were some kids around so I could give away the stuffed animals I got from my cousine Christa back home. A bit earlier there were men constructing a bridge to keep the river from the way. I asked Tenzing if I could give them some Swiss chocolate, he said I could. He made an offering of money so since they were cleaning and taking care of our way, they would pray for us to get all the obstacles out of the way in our lifes. They have a lot of things like that in their culture. A lot of stories on how things happend and why they happened like that. I am very impressed by this country. Tenzing also said, that five days in the country you stop being a tourist and become a guest. After more then 5 days of trekking you start to be family.
    So after diner the three options went down to one since there is a zyklone hitting India sometime and bringing unusual heavy amount of rain. Tenzing said we could go over the pass the day after tomorrow to Lingshi, then doing the second one, heading up to the third, coming the same way down and somehow getting to Thimphu. It would be raining all the time. So. Lilian and me discussed a lot about if it was clever to go higher in the mountains when the weather gets worse. It isn’t just about us being comfy and warm but where is the sense going up three times to 5000m when we would just get grey and rain and fog? We were also a bit scared of being wet, also the tents. We asked if there was also the possibility of turning around. There was of course. We could go back, not exactly the same way, spend a night in Paro and two additional ones in Thimphu. It is quite clear that they don’t want to do that. Tenzing said he had once someone come with a lawsuit since it didn’t went according to plan. We assured him that we were happy with whatever we can take, and tes we used the lame phrase of rather be safe then sorry. Or rather be dry then sorry? Anyway, tomorrow lazy day ahead with a walk to a lake. Let’s see how this goes, it looks like I’ll be back in civilization earlier then wanted.
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  • Day 8

    rain keeps falling down - or not?

    May 4, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ 🌧 3 °C

    Hach, what a wonderful time we re having. It rained all night heavily, also through the morning so we postboned our trip to the lake to the afternoon. We spent the morning in the eating tent, reading, talking and just enjoying to be able to just let the hours go by. After lunch the rain stopped for good and we started to climb up the path to the lake that goes to two other passes, one to Linghsi and another somewhere else. The snow came down to probably 4600m, it was beautiful. The mountains were still shy, but the view still wow. We saw a lot of marmots and yaks and heaps of baby yaks, they are incredibly cute. So fluffy! We took a break and a kitkat (yes indeed) and enjoyed the quiet up there. Back in the camp we did some washing and then it was time again for tea and diner. Again delicious. With the tea we got popcorn. Yummy. Uptdate concerning our trek, probably we gonna do the long way up to the pass tomorrow, as proposed by Tenzing. I am all in, Lilian is a bit more hesitant because of the rain. We will see, i’ll take it as it comesRead more

  • Day 9

    always the sun

    May 5, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ 🌬 12 °C

    ooooh wow! The sun was out! And what a view! We were all a bit confused but apparently that zyklone took another route and somehow we got lucky. We could see all those big big mountains, had breakfast in the sun and soon we were starting always following the electric poles in direction of Linghsi. Of course we decided to continue our trek as planned. What a big surprise. We climbed up first very steep and then crossing the marmot field it was much smoother. We saw a lot of marmots. Cute animals. And baby yaks again. Soooooo schnuslig! We had like yesterday a dog for company following us until were we sleep, a bit later another one from the camp of yesterday joined. One tried to catch marmots, but they warn eachother, it is very funny to watch them. Blue sheep which aren’t sheep at all but goats were in a big group grazing at the mountain. Soon we were in the snow and it got muddy. Still under the snow, the view while ascending just astonishing (I used wonder-/beautiful already too often. Behind us was the Austrian couple but we didn’t cross them later one and they do another trek. Otherwise we just saw locals or no one. At our campsite there is just us, the horses and the two dogs. Incredible. We made it on the pass shortly before 11 since we were so fast we went up until the peak at around 5000m. We were very happy I think you can see it on the peak-selfie. Quickly we went down to have lunch where there wasn’t snow and continued down the valley. We took a longer way where we stayed longer above the river for nicer views. We saw again marmots and bluesheep and the view, just wow. It took longer then Tenzing though, there was also a river crossing and then after a curve into another valley we saw our campsite far away, down at the river. We arrived there quite quickly and did some washing as usual, dragged bags around and made ourselves comfortable for another night in the tent. It was very windy first, with the nightfall the wind dropped, now it is raining again. It is 21:00 and I am in bed, looking forward for another pass crossing tomorrow for Shodu, then still not clear where we go next, we don’t seem to run out of option. I am very happy we could continue and now touch some wood for a dry and safe journey tomorrow.Read more

  • Day 10

    i'm on top of the world

    May 6, 2019 in Bhutan ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    Apparently there was heavy rain and wind in the night, I slept through. In the morning the sky was clear and the sun not yet over the ridge but made his way slowly so we started around 8o’clock in direction of the next pass. The first 1.5h was walking slowly up the stream, again followed by the two dogs (I named them Chuck and Norris) and our path was commented by the whistles of marmots. There was also a griffon watching something/us? from a stone nearby. You realize their grandeur only when next to them. Impressive. Like the male yaks on the other side of the pass. Huge things with long horn. One made a appearance to come towards you, nothing you want him really to do! Anyway, we ascended first what Tenzing called the little pass, very steep but I felt I had good legs. Up there we crossed a field, had a juice break (we get some Tetrapak- juices and chocolate in the mornings) and saw our path and the pass 300m higher. It looked like a heck of a ascent! Tenzing told me that this pass was his Kryptonit, he doesn’t really know why. So we started, each of us in our own speed, since you can just go one speed at this altitude and this steepness. It was beautiful, challenging, in the end just going up through snow ad then, finally, the top. And again, what a marvelous view. Breathtaking. We are so little. Since wew were up there before noon it was quite warm and without a chilling wind. We watched five yaks and the horses making their way up to the pass, impressive sight. The way down was very smooth, we had a lunch break and then another 1.5-2h descent to our camp, a bit further down so the horses have more food. After diner Tenzing told us that the last pass wasn’t to be crossed. So tomorrow we will climb up the next pass as planned, come down the same way, sleep at around 4300m and then reach the traditional Jomolhari Trek for the last day. Very cool! Lilian and me will not miss the night at 4600m. we are both a bit tired today, feeling colder then usual. Now I am in my sleeping bag, it is 21:15 and I am looking forward to sleeping and then another long day of walking ahead! Yippie!Read more