An American Adventure

May - June 2019
A coast to coast trip across the USA.
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  • Day 1

    Off to the Big Apple

    May 22, 2019 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    First leg of my 2019 trip - Glasgow to New York - and I have to fly via Manchester, as Thomas Cook doesn’t fly direct to the USA until later in the season. An early start to catch the 06.35 flight from Glasgow (thanks for the 04.30 lift, Mags) on a busy propeller Flybe aircraft.

    All going to schedule until we are sitting on the runway at Manchester Airport ready for take off, when a passenger takes unwell and we have to taxi back to the stand and wait for almost two hours till they find and remove her luggage from the hold, and then empty and search the overhead lockers in case she had left something.

    Ready to partake of a tasty mid morning snack, I had to forgo this due to the announcement that another passenger had a nut allergy. Ah well, mint humbugs and San Pellegrino it was till dinner was served.

    The large, black lady seated along from me opened her carpet bag and produced an enormous bundle of leaflets, and when she saw me looking, she offered me one entitled ‘Do You Think You Might Need Jesus?’ I politely declined, and she spent the next 7 hours reading the Psalms of David in a huge font on her laptop. Frequently she would find something really amusing and would burst into uncontrollable laughter, with an occasional ‘Hallelujah’ thrown in for good measure.

    From JFK airport I was advised to take the Air Train and change at Jamaica for the E line subway to Manhattan. This reminded me of a restaurant at the Clydeside in Glasgow called Change at Jamaica which stayed open into the wee small hours, and where we sometimes went with Dixie Carr from the Apollo Players after a late rehearsal. I hadn’t realised it was probably named after this travel instruction from JFK.

    Given the length of this trip, I felt I should economise on accommodation where possible, so my NYC digs were at the YMCA - I can hear you singing along Y-M-C-A. My room is small but clean and comfortable, and thankfully, given the heat, it comes with air con as well as free WiFi.

    Tonight I hit the town and discovered Times Square awash with the military, all posing to get group photos taken. Fleet Week in NYC is a seven-day celebration to honor the members of the United States Navy, Coast Guard and Marine Corps. Well hello, sailors!

    A Broadway show next was a must, and I managed to get a good single ticket at the TKTS Half Price Booth for TOOTSIE - The Musical. It was terrific - well deserving of its current 11 Tony Award nominations. My American Adventure has well and truly begun!
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  • Day 2

    Lovely Day in New York

    May 23, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Up early and headed for breakfast at one of the 100s of eateries nearby. I settled for a Hungry Man Hero sandwich - and it was enormous! I did my best but couldn’t finish it.

    Walked down a few blocks to 42nd Street - what a fabulous street it is - home to the United Nations, the Art Deco Chrysler Building, the amazing New York Public Library, the Port Authority Bus Station (busiest in the world), the New Amsterdam Theatre (home of the Ziegfeld Follies), and my favourite building of all - the magnificent Grand Central Terminal. Built in 1913 in the Beaux Arts style, I hadn’t appreciated that this most gorgeous of all railway stations, Grand Central Terminal is one of the world's ten most visited tourist attractions! Pity it only now services local commuter trains, with long distance Amtrak trains now departing from the featureless Penn Station hidden under the concrete mass of Madison Square Garden.

    At the western end of 42nd Street the Circle Line departs from Pier 83. It’s amazing to think that some of the world’s greatest liners docked right here side by side within walking distance of Times Square. I took the 2.5 hour tour circumnavigating the island of Manhattan. What a lovely relaxing trip - apart from the 50-odd screaming kids on a school trip, who only showed interest in the commentary when the site of Alexander Hamilton’s fatal duel with Aaron Burr was pointed out on the New Jersey shoreline. At least musical theatre has taught them something.

    Our guide on the tour was a Donald Trump doppelgänger - complete with dodgy hairdo and exaggerated mannerisms. He was full of his own self importance and gave a running commentary for the duration of the trip, barely stopping to take breath. His catchphrase was ‘stay tooned’ whenever he told us about another forthcoming development in the city.

    A need for a bit of culture in the afternoon was satisfied with a trip to the Museum of Modern Art. It was wonderful to see such a fabulous collection of paintings by the Masters.

    Tonight my show was My Fair Lady at the beautiful Lincoln Centre. What a breathtaking production with a huge moving set gliding on and off so easily. Eat your heart out Eastwood! Terrific performance from Laura Benanti as Eliza. And so off to bed, bed I couldn’t go to bed...
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  • Day 3

    The Lake Shore Limited - Boart!

    May 24, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Oh, what a beautiful morning! Fresh from being washed, the endless Manhattan avenues shimmered like silver rivers reflecting the glass of their surrounding towers in the morning sunshine. How poetic I feel today!

    Thus uplifted, I decided to head uptown and visit Hamilton Grange National Memorial, a National Park Service site in St. Nicholas Park in Manhattan that preserves the relocated home of U.S. Founding Father Alexander Hamilton. What a delightful place to visit - small scale and friendly (and free). A super Park Ranger Guide gave us a short tour of the former Hamilton home, and showed a video of how the house was actually lifted and moved (for the 2nd time) by two city blocks to its current location - amazing. When Hamilton and his family moved here from downtown it was really in the country. ‘It’s Quiet Uptown’ - one of the songs from the musical - now again seems appropriate in this parkland setting. Well worth a visit if you are a Hamilfan (according to the Urban Dictionary: ‘a person who is a large fan of the hip-hop musical Hamilton’.

    Soon it was time for the first leg of my great American train journey. I arrived at Penn Station (sadly not Grand Central), in good time to catch the 3.40pm train - the Lake Shore Limited - to Chicago. How come American trains have such glamorous names such as the Silver Meteor and the Empire Builder? The Cathcart Circle does not seem to have the same ring about it. Regrettably the pre boarding was not quite as glamorous and, as the platform (track) number did not come up on the screen until 3 minutes before departure, it was like opening day at the sales with everyone fighting to get on board. The compartment however proved roomy, with comfy recliner seats and free WiFi. We were soon off and, after a grim 10 minutes of underground graffiti-sprayed tunnels, we emerged into the bright sunshine of North Manhattan near the George Washington Bridge. We continued to hug the River Hudson for a few hours, with attractive but very Scottish looking scenery. Passing Yonkers necessitated a brief chorus of ‘Put On Your Sunday Clothes’ much to the amusement of my fellow passengers as I forgot I was singing lustily with my headphones on! Then we passed West Point Military Academy and memories of James Cagney and the recently departed Doris Day. Whizzed passed Sleepy Hollow and the pretty Cold Spring where Campbell and I enjoyed a visit on our last trip to NYC.

    As we stopped at Schenectady, NY, an old couple behind me argued about how that town should be pronounced. They called the train guard over to clarify. I have to say he didn’t look as smart as the train conductor in The Music Man - more like an unkempt Blakey from ‘On the Buses’. ‘What’s that?’ he said, inappropriately touching the lady’s bare arm. ‘That’s my skin’ she replied. ‘And what’s that?’ he continued. ‘That’s my neck’. And finally ‘what’s that?’ ‘That’s my titty!’ yelled the old lady. ‘You got it’ he said ‘Skin-neck-titty’. I think he must be overdue some Customer Service training at the Amtrak Charm School!

    I was disappointed to discover that the on board restaurant was reserved for guests with sleeping berths. As I only had a reclining coach seat, my vision of a candlelit dinner à la Orient Express thus quickly disappeared, and I had to make do with a Pot Noodle, a Hot Dog and a cup of lukewarm tea from the Buffet Car. Still it was comfy and cosy and I soon drifted off…
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  • Day 4

    Thundering Through The Night

    May 25, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The Lake Shore Limited follows some of the nation’s most beautiful shorelines, combining scenic beauty with interesting history. It traverses the shores of Lake Michigan, Lake Erie and the Mohawk River.

    Our train had an extended stop at Albany, the State capital of New York State. Given the limitations of the onboard buffet, I sought refuge in the station cafe. Here in Albany, the Boston and New York sections of The Lake Shore Limited meet. Then on to Syracuse - named after a city on the east coast of Sicily - it reminded me of the Rodgers and Hart’s 1938 musical The Boys from Syracuse. What wonderful songs in that show - Falling In Love With Love, This Can’t Be Love, You Took Advantage of Me, and Sing For Your Supper. Why does no one do these wonderful shows any more? Another musical memory came in the shape of Buffalo on the eastern shore of Lake Erie. Shuffle Off To Buffalo from the musical 42nd Street seemed appropriate somehow.

    Stops at Cleveland (setting for the musical Curtains) and Toledo, Ohio came during the night. Surprisingly I got a reasonable sleep, although I had a Marx Brothers moment trying to master the various levers to adjust my seat into a reclining position.

    I read that the train route between New York City and Chicago was once the apex of luxury travel with glamorous trains such as the famed 20th Century. Passengers boarded after walking on a red carpet and dined on lobster on fine china in the dining car. By contrast, my breakfast consisted of a chewy microwaved bagel which might have been manufactured by Wrigley’s, accompanied by a tube of cream cheese which was impossible to open, until it squirted everywhere - apart from on the bagel! Still the coffee was good as I awoke to the cornfields of Indiana. Attractive clapboard houses lined the track, many proudly displaying the Stars and Stripes.

    The musical references keep coming. Elkhart, a town people say was the inspiration for Broadway’s hit, The Music Man was known as the Brass Musical Instrument Capital, and the first U.S. produced cornet was made here. We whizzed passed Gary, Indiana but I refrained from doing a Winthrop - too early in the morning for that!

    We had to put our watches back by one hour, having moved from Eastern Standard Time to Central Standard Time. Running late by 2 hours, the Lake Shore Limited finally limped into Chicago’s Union Station at 11.45am after a journey of over 20 hours.

    The entry into Chicago was not in the least glamorous - miles of gas and industrial works lined the tracks and the station itself looked dingy. That is until I got into the Great Hall of Chicago Union Station which was magnificent. I felt like Dorothy walking out of a dark nightmare and into a beautiful fantasy world. What a fitting welcome to the Windy City!
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  • Day 5

    I Just Blew In...

    May 26, 2019 in the United States ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    ‘Chicago, Chicago, that toddlin’ town…’ so sang Judy Garland on the double LP (yes, LP!), Judy Live at Carnegie Hall, which was the first birthday present Campbell gave to me. At one point she forgets the lyrics, but keeps singing ‘…and I forgot the goddam words’. On arrival in Chicago as I exited the station, the first thing I saw was a bus destined for Cicero, and noted that the musical Chicago has just ended a run here - how cool would that have been?

    What a magnificent city this is. Situated on the shores of Lake Michigan, it has fabulous architecture and lakeside gardens giving it the air of a capital city. It is clean and safe - not a St Valentine’s Day massacre in sight (as in Sugar - one of my favourite shows). First stop for me was Millennium Park - a real buzzing atmosphere and family friendly where live bands play nightly in summer for free. Got photographed at Cloud Gate, the huge Bean sculpture - one of the many attractions in the park. Next went up the Willis Tower (formerly Sears Tower) which was the tallest building in the world for 25 years. Plucked up courage to sit on the glass ledge on the 103rd floor - never again!
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  • Day 5

    ...from the Windy City

    May 26, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    On my 2nd day in the Windy City I got up early and fought through several hundred members of the North American Chinese Basketball Association to get breakfast at the hotel. I then went on a 2 hour guided walking tour of Architecture from the Golden Age of Chicago. It was an excellent tour showing how the citywide had literally risen from the ashes after the great fire of 1871 which had destroyed much of Chicago. Our tour guide was very knowledgeable but reminded me of a rather dishevelled Paddington Bear, with his floppy hat and blue coat. By the shape of him he had enjoyed too many marmalade sandwiches. One of my favourite buildings was the Wrigley Building, gleaming white and built for the chewing gum magnate William Wrigley, Jr, which sits at a jaunty angry at the Chicago River. We visited the interior of the fabulous Palmer House Hotel (where Magnolia and Ravenal in Show Boat lived before moving into a cheap rooming house when he lost his money gambling). Another highlight was the Chicago Cultural Centre which houses the world’s largest Tiffany dome - gorgeous. Another Tiffany masterpiece can be viewed on the amazing mosaic ceiling of Macy’s Department Store on State Street (sings ‘that great street’).

    I decided to opt for one of Giordani’s famous deep-filled pizzas for lunch, but the one that arrived would have fed a family of four. It was delicious but although I tried my best I had to get a doggy bag after only 2 (very deep-filled) slices. Next a visit to the wonderful Art Institute of Chicago - a real treasure trove - highlights for me included Seurat’s ‘A Sunday On La Grande Jatte’ (the basis for Sondheim’s ‘Sunday in the Park With George’), and of course ‘American Gothic’ (as reproduced beautifully at Eastwood by Marie-Claire and Kevin in The Music Man).

    Being a train lover, I was keen to take a trip on the Chicago Elevated Railway - known simply as ‘the L’ - which started in 1892. It goes round a city centre loop and then branches off in different colour coded directions. I got off at Belmont station to have a look around, only to find myself in Boys Town - the official gay district - where street crossings are painted rainbow colours and the whole area has a party atmosphere of music, bars and restaurants. Being a very hot day, I was tempted to quench my thirst in a large bar whose windows were open to the street, only to discover that the bartenders were big, burly male go-go dancers clad only in tiny leather thongs who appeared to gratefully accept dollar bill tips in their butt! I decided to opt for McDonald’s instead.

    Finally a trip to Navy Pier, a 3,300 foot long pier on the Chicago shoreline of Lake Michigan. It was a great fun place to visit, with lots of attractions including a carousel and fun fair, as well as countless bars and restaurants. I enjoyed a walk right to the end of the pier with its ballroom and great views over the lake. What a great two days I have had in the Windy City - so much to see and do - and definitely recommended for a visit.
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  • Day 6

    And All That Jazz

    May 27, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Last Chicago pics - I love this town!

  • Day 8

    The California Zephyr

    May 29, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Boart! Today I embark on one of the world’s great train journeys from Chicago to San Francisco on the California Zephyr. I checked in at Chicago’s magnificent Union Station where the Metropolitan Lounge offered free snacks, soft drinks, coffee and WiFi. Union Station, Chicago is home to the famous flight of stairs that featured in The Untouchables movie. A warning sign at the foot of the stairs advised you to take care - but forgot to add ‘especially if you are pushing a pram!’

    The journey to California takes in excess of 50 hours - so, with 2 nights on board I opted for sleeping car accommodation, and was shown to my roomette, a small compartment for 1 or 2 persons. It had two comfy seats facing each other, a picture window, and converted into 1 or 2 beds for sleeping. Ample toilets were available, and there was a shower downstairs which I tried out later and which proved very good, with plenty of hot water, soap, shampoo and towels provided, even if it was a bit shoogly.

    Although we left Union Station dead on time (2pm) we were hit with torrential storms, and the conductor announced the train had been told to slow down as there had been flash flooding, and a tornado had been predicted ahead! And we’re not even in Kansas, I thought.

    My cabin steward converted my roomette into a bedroomette with a few skilled pushes and pulls of levers. Towels, water, light and a power socket were provided, but alas no WiFi. Boo, Amtrak.

    The train stopped briefly as we crossed the state line into Iowa. I got off to stretch my legs and thought ‘I really ought to give Iowa a try’. I couldn’t believe it when the train conductor shooed us all back on the train with a mighty ‘Boart!’ à la Music Man. I hadn’t fully appreciated that all meals (breakfast, lunch and dinner) are included for sleeper passengers, so I chose a time for dinner, and joined 3 fellow travellers in the pleasant dining car. Everything on the menu, including soft drinks and coffee was included so, as not to offend, I chose mixed salad, steak and baked potato with green beans, followed by cheesecake and coffee. I then settled down for the night, ready for a good sleep.

    As predicted, the storm worsened, and I was wakened about 3am by the most violent storm I had seen. Loud thunder banged, and sheets of lightning illuminated the wide plains for more than 30 minutes (Bobby, you would have loved it!).

    The flash floods reminded me of a story of my good friend - the late, great Jean McCormack. Once during a visit to the Theatre Royal, Glasgow when confined to a wheelchair, she had an accident and didn’t make it to the bathroom on time. As a small river ran down the stalls below her, she produced a bottle of Irn Bru and poured some on the floor before calling the front of house steward: ‘Oh, sir can you help me? I’ve just spilled my drink’. ‘No problem, madam. I’ll get a mop’ he replied. ‘Which is why’ Jean advised me confidentially ‘you should always carry a bottle of Irn Bru with you’. And which is why I always do!

    As Jean would say, we thundered through the night, and I woke at 7am and enjoyed a hearty breakfast. My table companion was a very talkative, glam woman, older than she ever intended to be, who ran her own travel business. She was meant to drive to Reno, but chose the train, leaving her colleagues to drive. She was pleased she had made the right decision when she showed me a photo on her phone of their car with all its windows smashed in by giant hailstones during last night’s storm.

    There was another unscheduled stop when we were advised that a lady required some attention and had to leave the train. From the Observation Car we saw that the ‘lady’ was a fare dodger who was arrested and put into the back of a state police car which had drawn up beside the train.

    We finally arrived at Denver, Colorado and I stretched my legs to have a peek inside the beautifully restored Union Station. A poster advertised visits to the the home of the Unsinkable Molly Brown, survivor of the Titanic (and another show by Meredith Willson). Our departure was delayed when a 2 mile long freight train in front of us hit a railway bridge, and we had to wait for an engineer to declare it safe to continue. Due to weather delays, a few burst hose pipes and now this, meant that the train was running 4 hours late. Still, nobody seem to mind, and the atmosphere on board was cheerful and convivial.

    The best part of the journey came next - going through the Rockies. The rest of the day into evening was spent in the Observation Car, as the train climbed from the already mile-high city of Denver into increasingly spectacular scenery. Rolling green hills gave way to craggy cliffs and gorgeous gorges - much of it following the mighty Colorado River. We were promised wildlife, but all I spotted were a few deer, a solitary moose and two bald-headed eagles.

    I found most Americans on the train to be friendly, and keen to show off this beautiful part of their country. One elderly gentleman, for all the world the spitting image of the angel Clarence from ‘It’s A Wonderful Life,’ with his kindly eyes and bulbous nose, gave a running commentary. After a long chat with him, during which I mentioned The Music Man, he beamed broadly, jumped up from his seat and bellowed ‘Cash for the merchandise’, to which I sheepishly responded ‘cash for the buttonhooks’. Well, this encouragement was all that Clarence needed, so we got the full version of Rock Island. ‘You know, I played a main part in that show in High School’ he offered. ‘Harold Hill?’ I suggested. ‘Naw’ said Clarence with pride, ‘Salesman 4 - whadayetalk, whadayetalk, whadayetalk, whadayetalk’. Ah, well, time for lunch!

    I sat with two proud grandparents and their grandson for lunch. Just as I was about to tuck into my cheeseburger and fries, the grandmother said ‘would you join us by holding hands and giving thanks to Our Lord?’ Given her insistent tone and fixed smile, I thought I had better not decline her offer.

    Another night on the train, and we awoke in the desert landscape of Nevada. After a stop in Reno, another highlight was in store - crossing the Sierra Nevada with its spectacular mountain scenery. My ears popped at the high altitude. A volunteer guide from the local historic railway society pointed some of the many highlights of the area. What a beautiful clear day for the trip. After stopping at the State Capital Sacramento, we dropped down into the Bay Area and the final western terminus of this train - Emeryville, California, from where a coach was waiting to take us into downtown San Francisco. What a wonderful and memorable trip this has been on the California Zephyr.
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  • Day 8

    More Rockies Pictures

    May 29, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
  • Day 9

    San Francisco, open your Golden Gate...

    May 30, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Following my marathon 2,438 mile train trip from Chicago, a short 2 night stay in Frisco was next. The train doesn’t actually go right into the city, but terminates in Emeryville, Oakland where an Amtrak coach transfers you over the impressive Bay Bridge to Downtown. On arrival, I was immediately struck by the vast number of homeless people living on the streets. The area around my hotel had literally dozens of people either sleeping on the sidewalk or pushing their life’s belongings in shopping carts or prams. The majority appeared to be in very poor physical and mental health. The problem seems to be worse in San Francisco than other cities as a result of a dearth of low cost housing due to very high rents; drug misuse; loss of employment opportunities for unskilled workers, and the gentrification of the city. It seems to be an increasing issue that successive Mayors have attempted unsuccessfully to deal with. Very sad to see so many folk destitute on the streets of this great city.

    Got up early and took the classic cable car ride on the Powell-Hyde line before the queues started. My last memory of this was Campbell, normally cautious about crossing a road, hanging off the car fearlessly, and high-fiving passengers on oncoming cable cars as we trundled over the hills of the city. Next, I took the bus over the famed Golden Gate Bridge, its tall towers shrouded in mist, before visiting the pretty town of Sausalito in Marin County. Returned to the city by ferry, on a lovely cold but sunny morning, passing Alcatraz before arriving in the historic Ferry Building, now housing a thriving market.

    I love the beautifully restored streetcars which have been repainted to honour the liveries previously used in various US cities. What a pity Glasgow abolished its tramcars when so many other cities are now appreciating them as eco-friendly modes of transport. Took the classic F streetcar to the Castro, the lively gay district, complete with numerous interesting shops, restaurants and coffee houses. The last time Campbell and I visited, we were so keen to see the classic interior of the Castro Theatre that we unwittingly ended up at a funeral celebration there!

    I then decided to visit the Painted Ladies - no, it’s not what you think - these are a group of Victorian and Edwardian houses, many of which are painted in bright colours. Apparently these are among the most photographed sights of San Francisco and were lovely to see. This was followed by a walk round the expansive Civic Centre and a visit to the vast City Hall. The beautiful interior is the perfect setting for weddings, and at least 6 were taking place during my short visit. If I’d known, I could have brought my good suit and fountain pen and done a wee homer!

    By this time I felt I was due afternoon tea, and decided to treat myself at the elegant Palace Hotel, rebuilt in all its glory following the great earthquake on 1906. I knew I should have booked in here! From there, a visit to the lively Pier 39 and a chance to see (as well as hear and smell) the colony of sea lions who have taken up residence there.

    So many famous places to see including Chinatown - (sings ‘Grant Avenue, San Francisco, California, USA’ - name that musical!).

    This evening I attended a performance of the longest running musical review ‘Beach Blanket Babylon’, which spoofs popular culture with gigantic hats and costumes. I ended up front row centre in the cosy theatre, alongside a birthday party of half a dozen San Franciscan queens, who insisted on buying me a drink when they heard I was from Scotland - ‘because I love Liverpool’ screamed the birthday boy with delight. I just kept my mouth shut and graciously accepted his hospitality. It was a fabulously camp show with the biggest hats I’ve ever seen, so I have a few ideas for June at That Looks Good for this year’s panto!
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