Portugal

August 2017
A 16-day adventure by Brian
  • 23footprints
  • 1countries
  • 16days
  • 117photos
  • 0videos
  • 709kilometers
  • Day 1

    Day 2. Morning Alcobaca.

    August 9, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Why Alcobaca you may ask?. The Cistercian Monastery here was one of the most important and powerful Abbeys in the Cistercian order. It was founded in 1153.
    It has many Azurlejo. The hand painted tiles which. Depict major historical events. The tiles are about 150mm square. Many fine examples here. The church was the first Gothic church in Portugal.
    While wandering around the cloisters we heard this beautiful singing. We arrived at a chapel just as the singing ended. It was a Japonese lady and a falsetto. A male contralto. We spoke to him, Joao Paolo Ferreira. a Brazilian. He sings for the different touring groups. We sat down and he sang for us. A special moment. We continued our tour and shortly after we heard Joao Paolo singing Ave Maria. We met him again and asked if he had a CD. Yes, but in the square when he busks. I asked if he would sing Ave Maria for Shirley but unfortunately he had another appointment.
    Later we located him singing and I bought a CD. He then sand Ave Maria for Shirl who was moved to tears. The events of the last few days had caught up with her.
    A coffee, very good, and a Portuguese custard tart. Delicious.
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  • Day 1

    Day 2. Batahla afternoon.

    August 9, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    After lunch we caught the bus to Batahla, to see the Dominican monastery built to commemorate the battle that ensured the indépendance of Portugal. (1385)
    A very impressive building. What impressed was
    The stone masonry. A brilliant extravaganza of superb workmanship. It is the most important example of the Gothic style in Portugal with the most important example of medieval stained glass windows.
    In one of the photos you will noticed a cleaned steeple. If only they could afford to clean all the building it would be an extraordinary sight.
    Whilst there we saw the changing of the guard for the war memorial to the fallen of the First World War. I couldn't' resist photographing the intricate lacing of the guards boots.
    A visit to the military museum concluded our visit.
    Tired but pleased we returned to our hotel to prepare for our journey tomorrow to Coimbra.
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  • Day 2

    Day 3. Coimbra

    August 10, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    What a day. Brian in his wisdom decided to take the advice of travel advisor and take the train to Coimbra. No more today trains.
    The bus was at 1635 so it made sense to take the 1130 train from Valado as suggested.
    Sitting on a deserted platform in the middle of nowhere is. It the best place to spend your time, particularly when the train is late and indicates it is going to a different place. The train was clean enough on the inside but all the carriage had been graffitied and you couldn't see out of them.
    With relief we eventually reached our destination.
    Today Shirl needs her arm checked and re-bandaged.
    All is well to our collective relief
    Unfortunately no photos as yet.
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  • Day 3

    Day 4. Coimbra (Quimbra)

    August 11, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Much relieved after our visit to the hospital we were ready for being tourists today. As usual washing was the first port of call at the laundrette nearby. Once completed we headed off to find the cafe that has a fado concert tonight. In no hurry we strolled through the old part of the city with it's narrow and interesting streets. In one shop they had a huge tomato of the old variety, they look badly malformed but are red and juicy. You pay a premium in Australia where we have been seduced into only buying perfectly formed fruit and veg. These old tomatoes are delicious.
    Shirl is enjoying being a tourist and all tourists is buying little nicknacks to go with the cork handbag she bought in Alcobaca.
    On the pavements are the Pilgrimage placards indicating the way to Santiago de Compostelle in Spain.
    The Aussie invention of the screwtop virtually destroyed the Portuguese cork industry, being the worlds major supplier. It looks like they have hit on a winner with these handbags. How durable they are time will tell.
    We eventually found the fado cafe and booked for tonight's concert. (A separate post on the concert to follow)
    The Monastery Santa Cruz was close by and we popped in for a visit. Inside was beautiful azulejo tiles depicting religious historical scenes.
    The organ was a masterpiece as was the choir stalls.
    Buildings like this abound in Portugal and are testament that they, alongside England and Spain, they were a major power. Spain and Portigal have fallen by the wayside and, sadly, England is going the same way.
    Today, unlike previous days, was starting to warm up and we sought they shade and returned to the hotel.
    After lunch Shirl took it easy while I paid a visit to the Post Office.

    I
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  • Day 3

    Day 4. Fado.

    August 11, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    On the way to the concert I decided to check out the post office. Why you may ask? I have been traumatised by my experiences with the Italian Post Office and do not want a repeat experience. Compared to the Italian Post Office, Australias' is efficient and productive.
    With trepidation we entered and all appeared normal. Phew!
    Now Shirley's purchases can be sent home.
    All afternoon I had been racking my brain for the name of a guitar piece we had heard played by a busker earlier. As we sat down for the concert it came to me. The adagio from the Concierto d'Aranjuez. A very beautiful piece of music.
    Fado is a tradition of the Coimbra University students. The University was founded in 1290 and has a long and distinguished reputation. Fado was sung/played by the male students wooing the young girls but during the dictatorships of Salazar and Caetarno it was used to pass on messages of protest. Nowadays song are sung emphasising the love of country.
    The musicians play the Coimbra guitar, founded on the traditional guitar and the sitar. And the classical guitar.
    We had a very entertaining and enjoyable evening.
    Dinner was enjoyed in the nearby Placa in a barmy evening.
    Tomorrow we head off to Porto. The weather forecast is for a couple of hot days before a return to pleasant temps.
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  • Day 6

    Day 5 Porto

    August 14, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    A large group of Dutch cyclists were at breakfast today. Having cycled from Holland to Lourdes and Santiago they were heading off to ride to Fatima in Central Portugal. We chatted to two ladies and they explained their ride.
    The bus took us to Porto and it was hot. Mid 30s, not the temp for touring. We were quite content to have a lazy, shady afternoon.
    We had a quiet dinner and looking forward to touring tomorrow.
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  • Day 6

    Day 6. Porto

    August 14, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The day started with a tourist sightseeing bus taking in the historical parts of the city. I had an urge to leap off the bus, scrubbing and paint brushes in hand. There are a lot of dirty and derelict buildings throughout the city. Then I remembered that Portugal is broke, deep in debt to the EU banks. There is some redevelopement going on but, at the moment, it is not enough.
    There are many beautiful tile mosaics on churches, in the railway station and on significant government buildings.
    One mosaic on the Santa Caterina chapel has over 14,000 tiles. Quite impressive.
    Only two small trams remain from a once extensive network. The tourists love them.
    We joined the hordes crossing the Douro river high on the Luiz 1 bridge to vista Vila Nova de Gaia on the opposite bank to Porto. An impressive view of the city.
    We did visit some churches and a monastery.
    A busy day and we were quite happy to dine and retire for the night.
    Luckily a cool change is on the way for tomorrow.
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  • Day 6

    Day 7. JK !?'l/(#*+ Rowling.

    August 14, 2017 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    First up a visit to a clinic to have Shirl's dressing replaced. The wound is healing up nicely. Not quick enough for Shirl as she knows that it needs to be well and truly healed before we start walking again.
    Today is the day I cursed JK Rowling and Harry Potter.
    She lived and taught English in Porto in the 1990's spending a lot of time in the Majestic Cafe and the Livraria Lello (Bookshop Lello).
    We decided to have coffee at the cafe. Bad idea. Full of Japanese tourists paying €30 ($47) per person for breakfast. Too rich for our tastes. Took a photo and moved on to the Livraria Lello. It cost 8€( $13) to enter after 1 1/2 hours wait in a queue. I was all for moving on but Shirl wanted to see the inside. All Harry Potter fans will recognise the staircase. A replica featured in Hogwarts Library. Very impressive.
    JK Rowling has a lot to answer for.
    Afternoon spent doing the laundry in preparation for our move to Vila Nova do Foz Coa.
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