New Zealand Sabbatical

July - August 2015
A 49-day adventure by Mark
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  • 49days
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  • 43.4kkilometers
  • 40.5kkilometers
  • Day 1

    Before we go

    July 10, 2015 in England ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    So getting closer to the day we leave now. Flight tickets have all arrived and all final details sorted with the travel agent.

    I filled in the Australian on line visas for everyone and only noticed afterwards that Tash's name was wrong and I had put surname in the first name box and vice versa. The visa still got granted, but I felt I should email them and point out the error in case of future problems, After talking to the European helpline I emailed a copy of her passport through too and a day later got an email back to day they had made the amendment. So hopefully should encounter no issues there.Read more

  • Day 2

    We're off!

    July 11, 2015 in England ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    So Saturday was spent doing the packing. Went into town to buy another bag as felt we were short. Turned out a good move as we pretty much half filled it and the other 6 big bags, together with our smaller cabin bags, 11 in total. Travelling light (ha!), hoping it all fits in the car when we get to New Zealand.

    I spent about an hour on the phone to the Post Office after receiving a letter saying they had blocked my card for suspect activity. When I finally got through to them, there was a fraudulent transaction. From the way the guy was talking and the volume of calls they were getting I suspect the issue was at their end with their systems hacked. Card was cancelled and new one put in the post. Not so good when we leave that evening and this was the card I was intending to use as its overseas charges are better. Sam's version of the card was OK, but she didn't know her pin! New one to be sent and her mum and dad can let us know what it is when it arrives.

    The Emirates chauffeur car arrived a couple of minutes late - we already knew the traffic was bad from Sam's parents and it did take a while for us to get over Hammersmith Bridge, but got to the airport at about 8. Check in was smooth and we could use the BA lounge as the Emirates one at Heathrow was closed for refurbs.

    We ate in the lounge then boarded the plane and after take off got given mattresses to make the seats more comfy then tried for some sleep. We all slept a bit and were woken about 5 hours later for a light breakfast before landing in Dubai.
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  • Day 3

    We've been to Dubai (briefly)

    July 12, 2015 in the United Arab Emirates ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    So we ended up with 2 hours in Dubai, long enough for Tash to tick it off her list of countries visited. Found the Dubai lounge and had some more food then reboarded plane with instructions to all stay awake.

    We all watched some Modern Family, then various films (me - Hobbit 1, Sam - Hobbit 3, Ed - Aristocats, Spongebob, Bugs Life and some Tom and Jerry, Natasha - Enchanted, Insurgent).
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  • Day 3

    Hong Kong

    July 12, 2015 in Hong Kong ⋅ 🌙 29 °C

    Got to Hong Kong on time and no one had really slept much. Had pre arranged pick up via Hotel, they said we had too many bags for a people carrier so would need a 22 seater bus. What arrived was actually a 60 seater bus, with just us 4 on it! Got to hotel about 11.45pm, checked in fine (kids got free yo yo!) and paid to upgrade to club room for access to food and drink throughout the day in the lounge.

    Went to bed about 12.30, kids were chatting for a bit but then fell silent. Alarm was set for 6.30 so as not to miss the pandas.
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  • Day 4

    Panda Zookeepers

    July 13, 2015 in Hong Kong ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    So alarm went off at 6.30 and we rather groggily got ourselves up and dressed. Went into the Club Lounge for breakfast which was decent, cereal toast, bacon and other more oriental dishes. And coffee! Ed lovd the curry dishes for breakfast with rice.

    Finished about 7.40, packed a rucksack then headed downstairs to get a cab as reception last night had warned it could take 45 minutes or so to get to Ocean Park. Cab journey was fine, though cabby scarily multitasked quite a lot whilst driving, sorting out his wallet etc and took corners at some fairly tight speeds. But traffic was good so we got there in about 25 minutes at 8.15.

    Nothing was open then, so we sat on a bench and waited. It was already very hot and incredibly humid. Kids started complaining as tiredness and humidity combined. The toilets were opened about 8.30 and provided some respite as they were partly air conditioned.

    A minute or two after 9 the chains were unlocked and we climbed the steps up to the main entrance area and met our panda conservationist outside the conservation hut. She helped us sort out the tickets which, due to the date change took a bit longer than planned. We were still into the park just before 9.30, over half an hour before it opened at 10 to the general public.

    We went to a classroom and got changed into our panda keeper overalls. All loose items (watches, wallets etc) were removed, presumably so they didn't get left in the enclosures. After a couple of bigger sizes were obtained, we were kitted out and went into the back area of the panda enclosure. We met one of the keepers who talked to us throughout the time about the pandas. We were taken into the kitchen area and Ed weighed some fibre biscuits that the pandas would be fed later. We then made apple and bamboo kebabs, Ed chopped an apple into quarters and we each had one which we sliced into chunks and skewered onto a bamboo leaf skewer. Apparently pandas love sweet things like apples. They also get some other fruits to supplement their main bamboo diet. We were shown toys that the food is put in to enrich the panda’s lives by making them find it.

    The moment then arrived, out of the kitchen, a door was slid back and behind a cage door was Le Le the panda. A keeper showed how he is trained to touch a padded stick with his nose and hold the bars with his paws. Good behaviour is rewarded with a piece of apple. This was needed so that the pandas could move properly if a vet needed to examine them.

    Le Le then went into the next door enclosure where there were some big scales and he was weighed. We guessed around 200lbs, but he was actual about 120lbs, normal for an adult male (females less at 90). We each took our skewer and in turn held it through the bars for Le Le to nibble the apple pieces then eventually grab the whole stalk and eat it. We had hand fed a panda - not many people can say that!

    We then went into the enclosure and laid out some piles of bamboo. Back outside then Le Le was let out. He hunted for the bamboo and then sat down to eat - photo time!

    Backstage with the red pandas next. We had seen the pair at Whipsnade before, but not as close as this. They use their tails for balance and also like a scarf to keep warm in winter. There are also different species of red panda that live in different areas and are different sizes.

    Back to the panda enclosure and whilst Le Le was outside eating his food we cleaned up the old bamboo and swept up his poo! Finally we saw the bamboo cold store - 2 deliveries of fresh bamboo a week from China, each panda gets through about 30kg a day (eating about 20 of it). They like different types of bamboo depending on the season.

    Our visit was over and we changed back into normal clothes then spent some time with our original guide explaining the problems pandas now face and some of the conservation work being done. A big thing is to stop using bamboo chopsticks - probably more aimed at the Eastern rather than Western visitors. We chose our panda photos, but decided to leave purchasing more (cuddly!) stuff until later in the day to avoid carrying it around.

    After a much needed drink we looked around the rest of the park. Two more much older pandas are in a different section, we saw the oldest panda in the world, 37 next week. This is equivalent to over 100 years in human terms.

    We visited the aquarium, went to get a map and were entertained by a balloon artist, who somehow put a nail through a balloon, then got Ed to try with less good results. We tried the carousel, but for some reason (possibly because Ed was bad at getting on the Orca) I had to sit with him. The ride was pretty slow and certainly didn't warrant the seatbelt I had to wear.

    Then got the big cable car to the Summit area. Saw a Sea Jelly exhibit with lots of crazy jellyfish (lots of tanks and mirrors and UV lights made it hard to walk around as was quite disorienting), then into the shark exhibition - pandas aside this was the best bit, lots of big sharks and rays in the large tank.

    Some food then, fried chicken, then Tash and I went on the Pirate Galleon ride, good as ever. By now we were getting tired so headed back over the cable car to the Waterfront area. We, of course, revisited the panda shop and got various cuddly pandas, red pandas and other souvenirs, then went in for one last look at Le Le, this time just as normal customers, before heading out.

    Joined the queue for taxis, the short one was no good as was only for going to Hong Kong island, not through the tunnel to Kowloon where we were staying. The much longer queue for 'tunnel' taxis moved slowly as about 1 in 10 cabs were coming our way. Took about half an hour to get in one, then another 30 minutes to get back to the hotel. Tash and Ed complained about the fact they were leaning on each other, then 10 minutes into the trip things went quiet as they fell asleep - leaning on each other’s shoulders!

    Back at the hotel the Club Lounge had a great array of food and drink, which we devoured. Then went up to the roof top pool on the 42nd floor. Nice pool and hot tub. Then back via lounge drinks fridge to room, in bed by 9.30, ready for tomorrow.
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  • Day 5

    Victoria Peak and Star Ferry

    July 14, 2015 in Hong Kong ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    We set the alarm for 8am not thinking that we would need it, but it most definitely was. After snoozing it several times we got up at about 9,15, with the kids fast asleep until Sam woke then up then. Good job we weren't seeing the pandas today!

    After breakfast again in the lounge we headed off for the MTR station at Mong Kok a couple of streets away. After setting off in the wrong direction then returning to the hotel for Calpol for Tash's headache we got to the tube. The ticket machine was quite easy to use, total cost $28 for the four of us (about £2.50).

    Train came quickly and after 4 stops we got off at Admiralty, went through a shopping centre and followed signs through Hong Kong park to the Peak Tram. The park was very nice with lots of fountains.

    The tram had a bit of a queue for tickets, $80 return for adults including entry to the top floor Sky Terrace. The journey up took about 5 minutes and was very steep, certainly would not want to walk up.

    At the top was essentially a 5 or 6 floor mini shopping centre with various small shops and restaurants. We headed straight for the top floor terrace and got an audio guide with facts about many of the landmarks you could see. It was sunny and quite hot up there, so after plenty of photos we headed down for a drink. Burger King beckoned (though we had some difficulty actually finding the entrance door), Sam and I just drinks, kids their standard chicken burger and nuggets.

    We explored more of the shops and bought a few souvenirs (including a handbag for Miranda, jade elephant and key rings with kids names in Chinese) then went across the square outside to the Galleria shopping centre. This was much quieter and had a free viewing terrace on the roof with views just as good as the one we paid for, More photos and a Haagen Dasz followed, then back down the tram (after chatting with a family from Birmingham about taking kids out of school).

    We took a taxi to the Star Ferry terminal with a chatty taxi driver (with basic English) who berated us for trying to check he would take us before getting in as the meter was already running and we were wasting money. He was keen on saying "don't spare the horses" then chatted to Ed about Wrestle mania - "The Undertaker, put him in the coffin"! He'd heard of Essex but never been to London - not yet as he said!

    Star Ferry tokens were also cheap $6.80 for all of us, about 60p. The ride was about 10 minutes across the busy harbour, with some waves splashing up at times to Ed's amusement. From the terminal we got a cab back to the hotel and ate tea in the lounge - some great spicy pork and Tiramisu. Then we had another swim and hot tub before bed, hoping for an easier wake up tomorrow.
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  • Day 6

    Big Buddha

    July 15, 2015 in Hong Kong ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Our last day in Hong Kong. It was easier getting up this morning, though it was still the alarm at 8.00am that woke us. We had breakfast again in the lounge, Ed was disappointed with the curry being vegetable!

    We eventually packed our bags - we are going to have to get better at doing this when we are moving around more often in New Zealand, though I guess we will have less time to unpack stuff too. And it's already obvious we are definitely going to have to buy another bag, panda related souvenirs are already starting to fill up the spare space we came with.

    After checking out and booking a car to the airport at 4.30 - managed to convince them a 22 seater would be overkill and an MPV would fit everything in fine - we headed off to the MTR to go on the Cable Car to the Big Buddha.

    The train took about half an hour with one change, then a short walk to the cable car ticket office. We just booked the standard cabin rather than the crystal version with a glass floor. The cable car was much longer than we thought, taking about 25 minutes and changing direction a couple of times during the trip.

    We got off and Ed was very hungry (!) so we went into Subway and had sandwiches and a drink. Then we walked over to the Buddha, where we had to climb 100 or so steps to get up to his base - very tiring in the weather and we were dripping with sweat at the top. Fortunately the area under the Buddha was shady and colder and had some big fans blasting out cool air.

    Going down the stairs was easier and we headed back to the cable car for the return trip with one eye on the clock for our 4.30 car. We were paired (possibly not accidentally) with another western family in the cable car. They turned out to be from New Zealand - Invercargill - and had been holidaying in Japan with a stop off on the way home in Hong Kong. They said Japan was a very nice place to visit and easy to get around with a transport pass - one for another year. They gave us there number in Invercargill (Bob and Di) should we need anything whilst passing by and recommended calling in to the museum to see the Tuatara.

    Off the cable car and a quick drink purchased in a 7/11 then back on the tube, arriving at hotel at just after 4. We changed out of shorts into warmer weather gear for NZ. The car arrived and the luggage all fitted! We got to airport at 5 and checked in and ate in lounge - very tasty.
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  • Day 7

    Lost Bag!

    July 16, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Again this flight was largely uneventful and we got through immigration quickly and our bags came off first apart from Natasha's. We waited for about 25 minutes until all bags had come round and still no sign. When we went to the baggage counter they had been notified that it hadn't made it onto the flight, but had been too busy to inform us apparently! Hopefully it will turn up tomorrow. Tash was given a wash bag and $78 to buy some stuff with.

    We had already declared to customs on the form that we had food and hiking boots. Whilst waiting for Tash's bag the sniffer dog got very excited about our boots bag, and had sniffed dried grass in the bottom of it. His handler marked it up as needing attention

    After sorting out the lost bag we queued for the 'things to declare' line. The customs guys washed the shoes and bag and then we had the rest x rayed (like everyone else) and all was fine. Was amusing to see what was coming out of some people's bags =- all sorts of foodstuff, cakes meat etc, some of which was given the green light to go through, some confiscated. All part of NZ's desire to keeep its agriculture free of external pests and diseases.

    We got the shuttle bus to Apex car hire and picked up our Subaru Forrester - we got some snow chains too and a free sat nav thrown in. We then drove the 5 minutes to the b and b St James Bed and Breakfast), which was a very nice place and we got a warm welcome. Maggie, the owner, suggested a nearby tavern to eat in, but the kids had spotted McD's near the airport and were keen for something quick so we went there.

    Then we went back to the b and b and dropped off to sleep - for a bit. All of us were awake at different points through the night. Tash was perplexing her friend Benny who wondered why she was on Instagram at 3am our time after he had googled what time it was with us!
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  • Day 8

    Earthquake and Antarctica

    July 17, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    We all suffered from waking up in the night. I woke up totally awake with my phone showing 11.45. I as convinced it must have gone back to UK time, but no I had only been asleep for about 3 hours. I was then awake for about 2 or 3 hours before dropping off again. Tash was similar and got comments from her friend Benny back in the UK about why she was on Instagram at 3am NZ time!

    Breakfast was lovely and the kids were entertained by the friendly dog who loved Ed's crumbs and then went out to feed scraps to the chickens.

    We repacked bags to enable easier unloading at future venues then set off to get Tash some fresh clothes. I called Emirates who then called me back to say bag should be in NZ today. We ended up arranging for it to be delivered to our motel in Arthur's Pass tomorrow, so fingers crossed. We had originally planned to do the Christchurch Gondola cable car, but given the rainy, cloudy weather we decided not to as we wouldn't be able to see very much!

    So first off we found the shopping mall Maggie had given us directions too and Tash got a few things, also I got a fairly cheap camera for Ed as we couldn't charge his up. From there we headed into Christchurch and found a parking spot eventually near the museum (we drove around and around for a while as the spots were all taken) - no change for the machine and couldn't make it take our credit card so we bought a postcard from the visitor centre and paid for two hours. Went into museum, which included a rebuilt house that an old couple had decorated internally with Paua shells and exhibited as a tourist attraction. Their son had donated it to the museum after they died. Tash bought a shell then her usual antipathy for museums was kicking ion so we moved on.

    From the museum we headed into the central square and saw the earthquake damaged cathedral and all the buildings that had been demolished. The cathedral was a sad and poignant looking memorial. We went to the container mall, with shops in shipping containers and had a coffee and bought some socks! Then got Merino scarves, hats and gloves for everyone, ours Merino and possum, Ed's pure merino with pictures of little sheep on them..

    Then back to the car and we headed to the Antarctic Centre nack out near the airport. This was a fun place, we went into a room that simulated an arctic storm. It was minus 8 to begin with, with snow on the ground and an igloo inside. Then fans came on and sent the temperature with wind chill down to minus 18. You got an extra coat and special boots to wear over your shoes to stop you slipping.

    Next was the Hangalan ride, a tracked vehicle and trailer, which we were strapped into and went around an adventure course with 36 degree slopes and a 7m hill with a 1m gap in the middle that the tracks could span across. Lastly we went speeding through a 3m deep lake , with water half way up the back window. The vehicle is also amphibious and could power itself along with the tracks acting as paddles.

    There is a blue penguin colony at the centre, rescue birds, and we saw them being fed - they are the smallest penguin in the world and live in New Zealand. We also saw a 4d movie, getting sprayed with water, fake snow and bubbles. Waiting to go in the movie we chatted to some guys from the US who worked for NASA and were over at the US Antarctic research base just across the road. They'd been involved in the recent probe sent to Mars and had flown over in a big military carrier, stopping in Hawaii for lunch!

    We left about 4.45 with cuddly penguin and seal (of course) and drove to Darfield. Took just over half an hour and the motel room is very nice. We went to the supermarket for a few essentials and then to the Terrace Cafe for a very nice meal and bottle of Riesling (the Doctor's)

    Got a call from Ballooning Canterbury to say we are on for tomorrow (I was convinced it would be off given the grey skies and cloudy weather that dat but it had cleared as the day went on, with snow expected later on Saturday). Early start, need to be with them by 7am!
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  • Day 9

    Ballooning and Snow

    July 18, 2015 in New Zealand ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    So the alarm went off at 5.45. Classically I had been awake for an hour or two before that! We got out the motel by 6.45 and arrived at the balloon location just a minute or two late. Everyone else was there and as soon as we got on the minibus we were off.

    Had to fill in our details on the way, guessed the weights of us all a bit. We got to the first potential launch site but a helium balloon test showed there was too much wind to inflate the balloon, so we went to a second venue at the Showground in Hororata. The basked and balloon were unpacked from the trailer and laid out. Burners were checked, providing a good photo opportunity! We were briefed on how to get into the basket and where and then the balloon was inflated with two large fans, cold air to begin with.. Once it was pretty full the burners were used to heat the air and the balloon rose up. On the given signal we climbed into the basked, us four had one corner segment for ourselves.

    The last few ropes were clipped up and released and then effortlessly we were floating, quickly rising to quite a height and soon to cruising altitude of about 3,500 feet. The climb was serene and oddly silent. One thing I hadn't realised was that you don't feel the wind in the balloon, as the balloon is moving at the same speed as the wind - only feel it when the altitude changes and wind direction moves until the balloon readjusts.

    We drifted along, seeing great views of the mountains we would be driving through later and learning about the irrigation scheme being installed on a large scale to stop dairy and beef farmers drawing water from the ground. Much of the Canterbury Plains are beef and dairy rather than sheep now.

    A camera was swung out on a rope beyond the balloon and pictures taking of us up in the air. Landing was interesting as we bobbed up and down trying to find the right winds to take us to a suitable site. The landing was pretty smooth - we had all been briefed on how to brace ourselves and hold on in case the basked tipped on its side, but in the end it stayed upright - to Ed's disappointment. We helped to fold up the balloon and bag it up then got a well earned glass of champagne and a muffin. The champagne is apparently a tradition of balloonists dating back to the Montgolfier brothers. Some more photos and we learned the balloon cost about NZ$250k.

    We were driven back to the start and were off in our car by 10.30. I'd had a call just before we went in the balloon to say Tasha's bag would be delivered to the Darfield Motel by 10am so we popped back there and were reunited. It just about fitted in the car!

    Then we drove off to Arthur's Pass about 1.5 hours away. The mountains got ever closer and the scenery was spectacular, but lost on the kids who were asleep in the back. No surprise given the early start and Sam and I were struggling to stay awake by the time we arrived. We went for lunch at the Wobbly Kea - food was decent but it was surprisingly cold inside, they didn't have a fire going it seemed.

    It had started to rain about half an hour from Arthur's Pass and this continued as we walked to the Visitor Centre. We decided to do the short 10 minute Millennium Walk then carry on to the 1 hour Devil's Punchbowl - a large waterfall.

    Despite the rain, we started in good spirits and saw a pretty waterfall on the first walk. Heading across a couple of bridges (10 person max weight) there was old snow in patches on the ground from the last fall. The rain started to turn to sleet and as we started to climb up through the forest it was snowing, The walk up was quite steep with a lot of steps and we found it hard going as there isn't much to see en route. We were overtaken by a bunch of students and ploughed on to the viewing platform with great views of the Falls. Ed and I climbed down a bit to the water's edge below the platform. Some of the students were climbing right up the river - rather them than us on slippery and snowy rocks!

    The way down was easier and we got back to the shop to get a few things for tea then drove to the Alpine Lodge. Got a warm welcome and the room had a nice fire and those all important electric blankets. No rush in the morning, just need to be out by 10 - snow permitting....
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