The Elusive Saranac Lakes

After departing Karl and Mary's, I gassed up at 210 miles on one tank. I put 4.45 gallons in the tank, so my conservative estimate for one tank will be 200 miles. If I am a little more conscious of the throttle and coasting down hills, I think I can get my range up to 250 with my extra half gallon on the back.

The ride to the Saranacs brought me across lake Champlain and out of new England. Farewell.

A short ferry ride across the massive lake and that shaves off about an hour and a half of driving time. The sky is overcast and scattered thunderstorms are forecast for the afternoon. After the lake crossing I stopped at a diner to grab a quick breakfast and look at my options for the day if it were to start storming. In the diner I looked at going to Ausable canyon, and camping at a KOA (canyon sounds fun but there is a steep admission fee to look at natural features, and I turned my nose up at the thought of a KOA so early in the ride. I'll save the stay in one of those places for when I get desperate. I'm a camping snob). The other option was to camp near White face and hike to the top. I was leaning toward doing that if the weather wasn't going to be good on the Saranacs. I decided to give the boat rental place on flower lake a call before I made any rash decisions. Luckily they checked the weather and it sounded like I had time to beat the rain onto the water. I leave the diner and head straight for the rental shop.

I parked in the lot near the rental place, covered the bike and got out on the water by 1:30. Then I immediately had to portage around a dam. Not the easiest start to a paddle. I finally got to the other side of the dam and was really on the water by 2:30. On my way to the campsite, it drizzled on and off until I was about 40 minutes from my planned camp which was first come first served. At that point the skies opened up and it started to pour. In anticipation of the downpour, I rented a kayak and stowed my great in the compartments of the kayak safe from the rain. Then I came to a lean-to where I had planned on staying, but I saw and smelled a campfire. The lean to was taken by a huge group of people with fishing boats. There were about 5 boats and even more tents surrounding the lean to. At that point I back tracked a few hundred yards to a regular site. Soon after the rain stopped and I set up camp. Lentil soup is on the menu for the next two nights. Good thing it's delicious. Every once in a while I get a chunk of garlic. It rehydrated perfectly. Shortly after dark I pack it in as clouds fill the night sky obstructing my view of the stars.

I wake up from my first night alone in the woods. I never thought about how creepy it might be. I have a feeling that tonight will be more relaxed. The camp site that I wake up in is about 30 minutes from lower Saranac lake. First I make a quick stop to reserve a campsite for the night. I chose a site that is very close to the entrance into lower Saranac. That way I can set up camp, and let some clothes dry while I paddle around. This campsite is an island with really nice flat spots and plenty of pine needles to make the ground softer. I quickly set up camp and then head for middle Saranac. I left my new home around noon and plan to be back by 6. I navigate out of the southern portion of lower Saranac into Saranac river. A manual lock was waiting for me between the two beautiful lakes. The water was in the up position, so I closed the upper gates and then opened the lower gates. The water emptied through the lower gate until the water levels were equal on the lower side. The doors are free to open and I pull my kayak into the lock, close the doors behind me, shut the lower gates and opened the upper gates. The water is now at the upper level, the doors are free to open and I hop back into my yak. After a nice ride up the meandering Saranac river, I arrive at the middle Saranac. I've wanted to see this lake ever since the first year of the canoe trip that a bunch of friends and I started years back. The lake didn't disappoint. I stop on an island and filter some water while I take a small breather.

The time is now 3:30 and I'm headed back to camp. On my way into Saranac river I hear a helicopter behind me. I pay no attention but the sound gets closer and closer. As I turn around there are two large military helicopters being flown low over the lake. One of the choppers flies directly overhead and is loud and amazing. I can only imagine the wonderful view those guys had from above. Through the locks again and back to camp I arrive promptly at 5, which was my high bar for returning. I did have the wind and current at my back which made paddling a breeze.

I've just finished the second night of lentil soup, and it's still really good. The sun went down over a nearby peak to my west. I think it is boot bay mountain.

As I sign of for the night I get ready for a clear sky and hopefully some more stars. Tomorrow brings a long day starting with what I think will be a two hour paddle, followed by a ride across the border into Canada. Gotta get some rest.

Pictures: The bike on the ferry. A northern Forest canoe trail marker near the flower lake launch. A look back just before a second portage on the first day on the water. Day 2 on the lakes and a really big mushroom catches my attention on the island in middle Saranac. The view on the way back to lower Saranac. The last photo is a map of my paddling today and yesterday. The small stones are places I stopped. The first two (from upper right to lower left) are sleeping spots. The third was where I stopped to fill up on water and take a siesta.Read more