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Portugal

September - October 2022
A treat after a stressful year, and several scuttled trips due to the pandemic. Read more
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  • TravelerPortugal
    Day 2

    Montreal YUL

    September 26, 2022 in Canada ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    It's a long layover here in Montreal (over ten hours), but partly by design. With all the cancellations and delays lately, we came early in case there was a glitch. We did not want to miss our connection to our TAP Airways flight to Lisbon, leaving at 10:40 p.m. We tried to catch a few winks given the short night we had.Read more

  • TravelerPortugal
    Day 3

    St. Jorge's Castle

    September 27, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    We arrived at 9:30 a.m. local time, somewhat road weary after the overnight plane ride—6½ hours. First order of business was to buy our transit passes at the airport. Second was to get SIM cards, which we forgot to do. Anyhow, with lots of wifi around we can get by without, so a bit of savings there.

    Getting around with transit is not difficult unless you're lugging suitcases without wheels, which was us. We were trying to comply with all the regulations posted on the TAPortuguese Airlines website. Little did we know they are not enforced, so we would have been fine with our wheeled suitcases.

    Then we had about a 500 metre walk to our hotel, Hotel Lis. It was a bit difficult with seemingly two systems of naming streets and some street names obscured by renovation fencing at some buildings. Then a delivery person sent us in the opposite direction. Not too big a deal, but I was kind of done my workout.

    We were allowed to leave our bags at the reception until check-in time at 2:00 p.m.

    Meanwhile we found a tourist kiosk to get oriented for a trip to "the castle" on the high hill in the city. We hopped on the #12 trolley, which just does a continuous 15 minute loop around the downtown area, including going around the castle. We did the loop once, realized we were on our second round and got off when the route stopped ascending. Once we got off, it did not take long to find the way to the castle. There was an €8,50 charge. They had lovely generous grounds shaded by red pines outlined by low walls overlooking the lower city and the waterfront— lots of clay tiled roofs. Several decommissioned canons punctuated our walk along the circumference of the castle grounds.

    Ruth was tired and did not want to try the 120 steps to the upper levels, so she cooled her heels while I went to catch some further panoramas of Lisbon. The steps were higher than the standard we're accustomed to in Canada — a good workout for the quads. But the day was beautiful and the breeze higher up refreshing, as the day started to warm up by then.

    After that we started our descent going by old buildings, interesting shops and the St Vincent lookout, which has a great view of the waterfront.
    We stopped there, near our trolley stop for a refreshing, alcohol free Pina colada. But since we got tired of waiting we went down on foot, not too bad going downhill without luggage.

    Once at the hotel, we both sank into the bed and set the alarm for 6:00 p.m. and had a restful 90 minute nap.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal
    Day 4

    St. Jeronimo's Monastery

    September 28, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Lisbon is a city of antiquities and they celebrate by setting up many museums. We could not possibly go to all of them. But we wanted to see the Castle of St. Jorge (yesterday's post), St. Jeronimo's Monastery, the Monument of the Discoveries, and the National Tile Museum.

    We got up early for the fabulous breakfast at our hotel and proceeded to take the trolley to St. Jeronimo's. Despite getting there before opening time, the line was quite substantial. But even though the air was cool, the sun kept us warm and we were admitted by ten or so at a time. Twenty minutes later we were in the cloisters of the Monastery.

    The space was magnificent in its design, scale and artistry—a lovely place for peaceful contemplation and prayer. At least one could imagine it that way, even in the busyness of your groups and frenetic selfie seekers.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal
    Day 4

    Monument to the Discoveries

    September 28, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The fifteenth and sixteenth centuries were the height of Portugal's prowess on the seas and discovery of colonies and new trade routes. Controversial as some of that history is, a monument was built to commemorate Portugal's power and innovation. Padrão dos Descobrimentos or Monument of Discoveries is a huge structure made to resemble a ship. Built on the bank of the Tejo River near its mouth opening to the sea it's now reached into the water.

    The first thing you see as you approach the 152-foot structure is a sword—it defines the "stern" of the monument. To my thinking it represents that "Might is Right" philosophy.

    While Ruth was admiring the inlaid marble stonework map of the world, a reporter approached her. Amelia was collecting material for a TV documentary outlining the divide in Portuguese society regarding their colonial history. One side proclaiming and celebrating the victories, conquests and accomplishments while the other bemoaning the oppression and suffering propagated by the conquest of indigenous people and the slave trade.

    Ruth proposed that history not be ignored, but that the richness brought to Portuguese society from other cultures be acknowledged and celebrated and shared. She also mentioned that we are dealing with a similar situation in Canada between settler and indigenous peoples. She mentioned the model of the Canadian Museum for Human Rights that tries to bring light to the issues by describing the facts in an open and honest way. We also talked about how those who have benefited from historical circumstances, acknowledge those benefits and make those benefits available to all.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal
    Day 6

    First Full Day in Albufeira

    September 30, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    We had a full night's sleep and easy wake up this morning. We had done some food shopping at the grocery store across the street and that provided our breakfast—museli with yogurt, a banana, coffee and a leftover pastry from the night before.

    We saw Maria and had a visit, got the wifi password and found she has a house in the country. I made it clear to her that I would love to go up with her one day and would not mind doing some work on it, since it seems to need some fixing. She was a little reluctant but did not turn us down outright.

    By the time we caught up on some emails it was after noon. We checked out a local bakery which was closed last night. They had sandwiches on order, but accommodated our request to have ours on a croissant instead of the standard subway bun.

    We took the sandwiches with us on a hike to see the marina from where the boat tours launch. We walked along the cliffs and had some wonderful views of the beach and the open water. There was a shaded sporting one of the lookouts where we had our lunch.

    Along the way were many seaside guesthouses overlooking the water and we checked out a few. The prices were better and the atmosphere was less exuberant than at Maria's place. Maybe we'll try one of them on a future visit???    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal
    Day 6

    Ricardo's Pizzaria

    September 30, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ 🌙 20 °C

    We walked through the party central part of town. And they were just getting started! It made us realize that the noise we were putting up with along our strip was not as bad as we thought. It's crazy when neighbouring restaurants have competing bands drowning each other out.

    Anyway, Ricardo's was comfortable and welcoming without a lot of hype and show. Many restaurants have staff trying to entice customers as they stroll by and Ricardo's was not like that. We had a light dinner and met two Dutch fellows who were on vacation. They were good conversationalists telling us about their lives in the Netherlands and how they take holidays visiting different countries in Europe.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal
    Day 7

    Photo Exhibit

    October 1, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    Along the cliff walkway was a photography exhibit celebrating one of Portugal's fine documentary shooters. It is a permanent outdoor exhibit commemorating the centenary of Artur Pastor's birth. I'm attaching some of his best images from the show.

    From the exhibit plaque:
    A DIFFERENT ALGARVE
    The centenary of Artur Pastor's birth

    Artur Pastor (1922-99), considered one of the greatest Portuguese photographers of the 20th century, was born in Alter do Chão on May 1, 1922. His work recorded, in a unique and singular way, the identity of our country, especially between the 1940's and 70's.

    He lived in Evora from the age of three until he was old enough for military service, in Tavira at the beginning of the 1940s. It was then that he met some photography practitioners and fell in love with the art. In the early 1950s, while working as an engineer for the Ministry of Agriculture, he combined photography with his profession, and this enabled him to capture thousands of images from across the country. For 30 years he captured the everyday life of the people, heritage and customs in urban and rural areas.

    This photography exhibition of Pastor's work provides a journey to the past, returning to the Algarve region, between the 1940s and 70s, reviving the memory and history of this region. It shows the relationship of man and nature, in rural and artisanal activities and especially our fishing tradition, thereby witnessing "A Different Algarve" from our current days.

    (Some of the translation was edited for clarity)    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal
    Day 7

    Evening Drink on a Terrace

    October 1, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

    We took in the setting of the sun on a terrace overlooking the main beach area. As the shadows lengthen and the air temperature dips, the action moves from the sand to the strip, where restaurants and clubs abound.

    Note: The second photo is a reference photo taken another day in the morning light.    Read more

  • TravelerPortugal
    Day 8

    Sunday Church Service

    October 2, 2022 in Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    I looked up the closest Protestant church to our place and Maná Christian Fellowship popped up. I thought it might be English by the name, but not so. I did not understand much of what the priest said at the wedding, so I was hoping there might be an English component to this one.

    It was a fairly informal setting, in the basement level of a four storey office/apartment building. We thought we were on time according to Google but we walked in at the tail end of a service. We decided to stay and we were warmly welcomed and promised a translator. That turned out to be Loes (as in Lucy), an exuberant Dutch expat who has been living in Portugal the last 47 years. We also met Paula, 15, and her sister Shelcia, 17, from Mozambique who spoke English very well.

    The service was a combination of Brethren, Pentecostal and Full Gospel, if you can even imagine that. It was a rich experience.

    The preacher was in his twenties, full of energy and focused on engaging the congregants. He met us after the services and was very warm and welcoming. When Scripture was read he asked Paula to read the passage in English, while Loes tried to keep up with the message, translating it for Ruth and me.    Read more

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