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Grape Escape 2

October - December 2017
A 60-day adventure by The Travel Bug Read more
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  • TravelerGrape Escape 2
    Day 1

    In the beginning

    October 21, 2017 in England ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    I'm not sure that we thought we would ever make this trip again, but life has a habit of supplying the unexpected. For those of you that followed our last antipodean journey the format will not be a surprise. The grape will be a feature, as of course will the Ashes contest! We are prepared for an Ozwash as before, but can only live in hope. We are definitely in search of the Kangaroo, which in 6 weeks of travel we somehow did not manage to encounter.
    Hong Kong is to be our stopover, as we feel there is so much more to see and we will see you there. Join us if you dare!    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape 2
    Day 19

    The prodigals return

    November 8, 2017 in Hong Kong ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    Hong Kong is rather like an old shoe; comfortable, slightly scruffy round the edges and thoroughly welcome at the end of a long day. It has lost nothing in the four years that have passed since our last visit, still resembling New York on speed! We arrived at our hotel in Kowloon mid afternoon and were checked in by a diminutive young lady called 'Pinky'. An enquiry as to Perky's whereabouts would have course fallen on deaf ears and probably just as well, in these politically correct times.
    The weather is warm, (mid seventies) and misty and it is a pleasant change to wander about in short sleeves. Having said that the Chinese are in unrelieved black and autumn sweaters. The queues outside Hermes, Chanel and the like are undiminished from ten in the morning till ten at night, closing time. The appetite for designer labels is seemingly as strong as ever. Interestingly there are markedly more mainland Chinese here than when we were here before, only confirming the looming presence of the Chinese tiger just round the corner, with wallets stuffed full of yen.
    We found an old friend in the shape a restaurant close by, retired early to bed and proceeded to sleep the clock round, much to our surprise.
    Our major plan for this short visit was to visit Happy Valley, the racecourse shoe-horned into the centre of Hong Kong Island. Along with our fellow Racing Tour companions, we were guests of the Hong Kong Jockey Club for supper and the racing, together with an unlimited supply of whatever tipple took your fancy. The only request from 'Joanna' our guide was that we were able to stagger back to the bus at the end of the night, as she would not be able to carry anyone! The racing was competitive and we had an excellent view from the balcony outside. All bets are taken at the equivalent of the tote counter in the room and apart from the odd wander down to the paddock and winners enclosure, you are relieved of your money with the least possible inconvenience. It is all very civilised. A small starter voucher of 30 HKD is provided and after that you are on your own, or, as in my case retired to the stables! The company was good and a very convivial evening flew by. The setting of the extremely palatial course is unusual, in that you are surrounded by towering skyscrapers with their twinkling lights, quite unlike anywhere else in the world and it was an occasion to savour.
    Another tick on Peter's bucket list.
    We are moving on today to Australia and I am tapping away to you in the lounge at the airport awaiting our flight to Adelaide, from whence I pen you the next instalment.    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape 2
    Day 22

    Adelaide

    November 11, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 25 °C

    Adelaide is technically a city, albeit a small and quiet one, of approximately one million inhabitants. It is situated in the deep south of Australia and has an enviable climate and lifestyle. Founded in the early 1800s as a trading post, it was planned and built largely during the Victorian era on a grid system, so is relatively easy to navigate; providing one can tell left from right, which can be a challenge for some of us! Most of the grand beautiful sandstone buildings are in excellent repair and stand side by side with their more modern cousins. There is plenty of green in the shape of squares and parkland, plus the beautiful River Torrens running through the middle. In short Adelaide is very attractive and appealing.
    We arrived from Hong Kong as the sun rose yesterday morning and were at our hotel, the Sebel Playford, by 7am. Understandably, we had a short wait for our room to be prepared and took a walk to find coffee and breakfast. This hotel is old by Aussie standards and very Art Nouveau in style, which I love. We stayed here briefly 4 years ago and this is another short stay. I tried to book here for the Ashes test (early December) when we will be back this way, but there was no availability even last January. It became apparent why on checking in - a block booking by what we took to be the England cricket team. It was only at lunchtime that it dawned on us that it's actually the Aussies, as the Centennial X1 came traipsing through following a morning in the nets, prior to a day/night warm up yesterday with the England team. We did contemplate seeing if we could get tickets, but decided that 2 overnight flights in quick succession would no doubt render us comatose at the wrong moment.
    Consequently, we have had a quiet day, giving us time to recover and acclimatise. This is definitely a foodie city, pulling fantastic produce from its wide hinterland. There is no shortage of restaurants and more casual eateries. We visited the much vaunted covered Central Market this morning. It is an old style produce market with every type of stall from all around Adelaide showcasing their first class fruit, vegetables, meat, fish, wine, cheese, breads. There are areas to eat scattered throughout and the place was buzzing with visitors and locals alike sampling the wares. There is a huge car park above, so clearly folks drive in, meet friends, do their weekend shopping and eat very well indeed. We will be back later to explore further.
    Tomorrow is moving day and we tackle The Ghan which is to be our method of transport to Alice Springs and the red heart of this continent. I will spend the evening rearranging the luggage and sewing corks on my hat!!    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape 2
    Day 24

    The Ghan

    November 13, 2017 in Australia

    This morning we departed for one of the most eagerly awaited sections of our trip. The world famous Ghan is a train service linking north and south Australia, via Alice Springs, in its desert and red rock heart. If completing the whole journey, it is 54 hours to travel from Darwin to Adelaide, covering nearly 3000kms. Our journey is somewhat shorter, being just under 1600 kms and taking a little over 24hours. The name 'The Ghan' came about as a typical Aussie derivation of the original pioneering Afghan cameleers, who came to Australia with their camel trains to ply the inhospitable desert interior in the early 1800s. The first train service was from Adelaide to Alice Springs in 1929 and the more northerly addition to Darwin was only completed in 2004.
    It is a huge train, almost a kilometre in length and the whole operation is extremely slick. You check in rather like a flight and can only take on board a cabin bag each and when you are ceremonially shown to your cabin you understand why! It is the size of an old Pullman carriage. There is a plethora of of wood and brass and at the moment it is in the shape of a couch and large panoramic window to take in the ever changing view. At night whilst we are dining it will be turned into a bedroom with bunk beds. We have yet to decide who is to take the top bunk! There is a tiny, but functional, ensuite bathroom - strictly one at a time.
    At present we are 3hrs out of Adelaide meandering through a wide gently undulating plain of agricultural settlements. There are outcrops of gum(eucalyptus), red rock and homesteads surrounded by their fields and animals, predominantly cattle and the odd sheep. This is an isolated life; you are literally miles from anywhere and I suspect an acquired taste that you probably need to be born into.
    We finally arrive at Port Augusta which is an industrial sprawling strategic town, acting as a confluence for both road and rail from north, south, east and west. Here the Ghan turns north and gradually the vistas change. Trees become scarce and typical desert scrub starts to appear coating the thin red soil. Soon all signs of crops and habitation cease, with the exception of the odd band of cattle. You are entering the Outback proper and inhospitable it clearly is.
    Meals on The Ghan are staggered and we had a very good lunch at 1pm and dinner at 7pm in the excellent dining car. Locally sourced produce is the feature and how they manage to produce such fare in what must be horribly cramped conditions is beyond me. Getting ready for dinner requires careful planning and you need to know your travelling companion well. The vast uninhabited rolling vistas drift past our window and Peter suddenly says 'Do you think we should pull down the blinds?' I'll leave you to guess my reply. Who he thought might be out there and more to point, vaguely interested, is beyond me! Sunset lit our evening meal and by the time you return to your cabin it has been transformed into a bunk bedroom. The machinations of attempting to prepare for bed are even more complicated as space is further reduced. The top bunk scenario is easily decided, as Peter literally cannot get into the bottom bunk without the danger of decapitating himself with a sudden move. And so to Bed...........that accomplished, sleep is rather more elusive! The train creakes, groans and shudders and despite a surprisingly comfortable bunk sleep is fitful, not that it matters, as we are woken at 5.30am to witness the outback sunrise! The train has stopped at the town of Marla, at least I guess you would say its a town. It serves the cattle stations around about for a 100 miles or so and most of its supplies are brought in on the twice weekly goods trains.
    On stepping off the train, lamps are lit, braziers burn and people mill around as the sky starts to lighten on the horizon. Coffee and tea are served, together with vegemite rolls, a fruit platter and bacon and egg sliders. A slider is a small brioche bun, quite delicious but needs to come with a clothes warning. One bite in the wrong place risks egg yolk all down your front. Peter narrowly missed his teeshirt but covered his hands and made something of a mess of his wedding ring -some consternation! The sun rises in a blaze of glory and another outback day dawns. So, we are now back in our sitting cabin (converted whilst we were outside). It is 8am and feels like lunchtime as I tap away. The radio is on, giving a running commentary of the country we are passing through, plus tales of life in these parts, all of which adds to the atmosphere. Outside, the red soil is now sporting quite tall bushes and there is the occasional small billabong. It is seemingly devoid of life, with the exception of the odd bird of prey. It is a humbling experience contemplating that eighty percent of Australia is like this and survival out here is something us spoilt city types could not contemplate.
    We are due into 'Alice' around 1.45pm, Australia's most famous Outback town, which is situated just 200 kms south of the geographic centre of the Continent. The town began life as a repeater station along the Overland Telegraph Line and is the gateway to the heart of Australia. Early rising and late to bed seems to be the order of the day for the next few days, in order to get around and see the highlights of this fascinating area. I'll do my best to keep you posted.

    PS At the risk of offending some, we were offered kangaroo for lunch, which I had. It was delicious, so I am in the unhappy situation of having eaten Skippy before seeing him! Peter went for the full Ghan!! No surprises there.    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape 2
    Day 26

    The Road to Uluru

    November 15, 2017 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    I think it is fair to say that for most people Alice Springs and Uluru are synonymous, but this dear reader, is far from the case. We departed Alice Springs at 6.25am on Tuesday 14 November for the journey to Ayers Rock Resort and after a couple of short stops arrived at 1.15pm! The landscape is harsh and unforgiving, but subtly beautiful in a pared back manner. The sun is high, with a temperature in the early 30s. Water is by and large subterranean with little to see on the surface, except for the odd salt lake. The soil is rich red and high in mineral content, particularly iron and vegetation is surprisingly verdant, due to the high rainfall this year. It consists largely of spinifex grass, acacias, various wattles and the desert oak and to my delight a beautiful pink/lilac wild flower called perekeelia, which is everywhere due to the unexpectedly high moisture at the moment. It has a charm all of its own. However, If the weather follows it's normal pattern, this wet year by Northern Territory standards will probably result in seven years of drought!
    We cross one huge cattle station after another, some of these up to 6000square miles in area and beyond. Over the years their owners have learned the lesson of diversification in various forms, by necessity of course. We stopped at Curtin Springs, an oasis of a rest stop on the station of the same name. In the 1950s Peter Curtin bought the lease of this land and moved his wife Dawn and 2 year old son Ashley to the Outback, having given them little idea of what they were coming to. He pulled to a stop under a particularly large desert oak and when his wife turned and enquired why he had stopped he grinned and said:" We're home honey!" Apparently, her reply was unrepeatable, which should surprise no one. They lived under that oak for the next two years whilst Peter attempted to get to grips with managing his herd and building them a homestead with whatever came to hand. Passers by and visitors were few, as Uluru had yet to take hold of the nations consciousness. Two family members did appear after a year, convinced that the young family were dead. They tried hard to persuade Dawn to move back east with Ashley, until Peter had either worked this maggot out of his system or died in the process! Dawn refused and they struggled on through seven year of drought. Gradually, traffic increased and the enterprising young wife started a fledgling business of supplying refreshments to the weary travellers and the rest as they say is history. I suspect this is typical of the type of grit, ingenuity and determination necessary to make a life here in this unforgiving land, which is one of isolation. A very special type of person is required!
    On the station is Mt Connor a table top Mesa of immense proportions and visible from the highway. No up close and personal visits are possible, as it sits on private land, but it is the first indication of the geological gems that are a feature of the Red Rock centre of Australia. It is thought that the whole of this area was once under the ocean and subject to considerable tectonic plate activity, which created the mountain ranges and lifted and tilted the strata of Uluru and Kata Tjuta to their present position. Uluru, or Ayers Rock, as it used to be
    known is the iconic heart of Australia, a Unesco site and famous the world over. Kata Tjuta or The Olga's are probably less well known but equally spectacular.
    If you are staying in the vicinity of Uluru, it is The Ayers Rock Resort you will come to. There are five eco, low lying hotels of varying types built around a circle of natural landscape and run by the Voyager Group, for the indigenous Aboriginal people. Since 1985 and 'handback', the land has returned to Aboriginal ownership and is leased back to the nation. It is run by an Aboriginal Council in combination with Federal authorities and local rangers. The administrative organisation of this is exemplary and could be applied to great advantage in many other parts of the world. This of course is not before time, as past treatment of their indigenous population is not something Australia is particularly proud of.    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape 2
    Day 27

    Uluru

    November 16, 2017 in Australia

    Once you set foot in The Ayres Rock Resort and the environs of Uluru National Park, I think it fair to say that your feet will not touch the ground. Time is short and there is much to see, to the point of fitting in meals and a shower, becomes a feat of organisation. A great deal revolves around sunrise and sunset. I've always been a sunset person myself, early mornings being highly overrated I find. However, there is no avoiding an early start here - 4am pickups are de rigeur, which means rising at 3 and no breakfast. You call this a holiday! We did two sunset tours of Uluru and Kata Tjuta both of which were something of a damp squib as the cloud cover was too heavy to allow for the expected glorious sunset. In the case of both, thunder and lightening danced all around and the journey back from Kata Tjuta in particular was a tremendous electric light show, the like of which I have never seen or wish to again. It rained heavily overnight on both occasions and we were told today that we had been lucky, as the storms had dropped the normal daytime temperature from 40 to 30 degrees. I guess we are grateful!
    I had heard about the majesty and almost mystical power of Uluru and was slightly doubtful if I'm honest. I take it all back. This heap of Arco Sandstone is mesmerising and somehow you cannot take your eyes off it. The actual rock is in fact grey, but over millions of years the high iron content has oxidised producing the rich rust red colour we see today. We started yesterday at the obligatory 4 am and were delivered to the sunrise viewing platform to take in this wonder of nature and the effect it has on Uluru. I was advised by a kind ranger to take a photo every 2mins and afterwards look back, when you would see the gradual change in colour and it worked like a charm. The sunrise was pretty good I reluctantly have to admit and effect on Uluru quite magical. The only downside is being surrounded by the general public. Fabulous people watching of course and I came to the conclusion that most of them are nuts. The advent of social media and the selfie stick has had a catastrophic affect on the so called brains of the young. Most appear not to be interested in taking in all that is around them and the fact that they may never have this opportunity again. They are far more concerned with the inevitable countless selfies of themselves, as grinning morons, in front of whatever natural phenomenon happens to be in sight, or ringing up their friends and acquaintances to tell them where they are, at full decibel, in a variety of languages. Picture this: three rather disastrously dressed young ladies from the Manchester area cavorting about next to us in such manner, when one says to the other as they walk away "do'y realise I've bin so caught up with thut rock I've only taken 15 selfies!" Not a word of a lie.
    We moved on to drive around the base of Uluru and take various forays into and around the base of the rock. It is here particularly that it casts its spell. It's surface is smooth, but with varying erosion features set into its walls, that have become very much a part of the Aboriginal stories and culture. Sunset over the rock was, as I explained, not as normal. Thunder clouds backed it, lighting raged around and a double rainbow appeared over Uluru, so it may not have been a glorious sunset, but it was certainly spectacular. Whilst all this is going on, you are plied with wine, beer, or whatever your tipple may be, canapés appear and a general convivial atmosphere prevails. It becomes all the more convivial as time goes by, as some just do not know when to stop!
    Kata Tjuta is completely different. The name in Aboriginal tongue means' many heads'. Their language only allows for counting up to three, so any more than three becomes multi. There are in fact 36 domes made up of a very different rock, called conglomerate, which is a rough mix of many types of rock held together by silts and sandstones. The surface is textured and rough and we took a walk up through Walpa Gorge, between two heads, to take a closer look. By now it is was about 7.30 in the morning and approaching 25 degrees. This is of course why so much is planned early or late in the day to avoid the extreme temperatures of midday. It was a terrific walk up and back through the Gorge, which I was really pleased to accomplish. Four years ago the knee would not have made it. The outside Aussie barbie, was rescheduled to inside the cultural centre and the study of the southern sky produced one lone star winking through the clouds. Oh well! Incidentally, the cultural centre is superbly done and a fascinating visit.
    We are now on our way back to Alice Springs and I am catching up with the blog. More fantastic people watching. It is rare for Peter and I to be involved in an organised tour, usually preferring to do our own thing. Here though it has achieved maximum opportunity in a very short time frame, albeit on a punishing schedule, so mission accomplished. Why is it always that the Brits always look the worst. Most shouldn't be allowed out of the country without a makeover. The advent and rise of casual clothing is a total disaster for the men in particular, although I can't say that the ladies get off scot free. One dear soul is sporting a strappy sundress with a thick white vest/ liberty bodice covering her to the neck! The men are by and large wearing ill fitting and uncoordinating short outfits with brothel creeper sandals or walking boots and high multi coloured socks. Crushed sun hats are worn in or out and I suspect for some to bed! Mind blowing. A mirror would be good here. Most English men should be obliged to be booted and suited, as they seem incapable of coping with anything else. End of rant and end of journey! We are almost back in Alice Springs and tomorrow are heading back to Adelaide, by air this time. We'll catch up then.    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape 2
    Day 30

    On the move to Kangaroo Island

    November 19, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 24 °C

    We arrived back in Adelaide by air on Friday afternoon, collected a car and drove down to Glenelg for a couple of nights. Glenelg is a southern suburb on the coast. You can take a tram from central Adelaide to Glenelg in twenty minutes and it is clearly a very popular spot. The place was buzzing on Saturday night, plus there was a beach concert from 4pm till 9.30pm. We gave it a miss! It is quite an historic area for a young country and in some ways did remind me of St Kilda near Melbourne, as there were several streets of what are known as coastal cottages just back from the beach, with lots of decorative ironwork. It didn't quite have St Kilda's quirky charm however.
    On Sunday morning we left early, to make the one and a half hour drive south to Cape Jervis. Here is the Sealink terminal connecting with Kangaroo Island. It was a beautiful morning, the roads were quiet and the scenery down through the Fleurieu Peninsula equally beautiful. It is rolling country, mainly agricultural and the road follows the stunning coastline for a great deal of the way. You touch the edge of the McClaren Valley wine area and there are lots of charming small settlements. Typically, when we were on a schedule, we saw several places we would have liked to explore.
    The ferry journey across the Backstairs Passage (just love it!) lasts about 45 mins and the Island is in view all the time. We were there just after ten o'clock. The island is very sparsely populated and largely part of a conservation area or natural park. Restrictions are strict on what can be brought in as the islanders are keen to protect their isolated habitat for the wildlife (and themselves I guess). Penneshaw, where the ferry docks is a tiny village of three small streets surrounded by some small businesses and residential properties. It has a supermarket, a bank and a penguin colony, so everything you might need in fact! My guess is that if you lived here permanently, a trip to Adelaide would be necessary every few weeks to stock up. There is a small airfield, so you could fly if you didn't want to take the ferry, but a few hours in a car is nothing to an Australian - can't be, otherwise they would never get anywhere. Breakfast had been scanty, so, on advice from the lady at the Tourist Information, we stopped at The Dudley Winery for an early lunch and a glass of something interesting. The view was to die for and the lunch equally good. We tried a couple of the wines and were particularly captured by the Mary's Blush Sparkling (!) and took one with us. A good start. We called at AnteChamber Bay, just down the road and arrived at a white sand beach which we had all to ourselves, apart from the over friendly flies of course. The bush came right down to the coast, the sun was shining and the sea turquoise. Sheer chill out, with a touch of exercise for the fly swatting arm!
    Our home for the next three nights is Sea Dragon Lodge. On arrival (40 mins from Penneshaw, half on gravel roads) we were shown to our eco lodge with a view down a small secluded valley to a private beach. You are miles from anywhere apart from the Cape Willoughby lighthouse at the end of the road and meals are brought to the lodge in a preordered hamper. There is certainly nowhere else to go! It is relaxing in the extreme and very beautiful. I sense a long standing memory building.
    Oh, and by the way the 'skippy' hunt is over. At 6.30pm there were three kangaroos browsing not 30 feet from the cabin. Yippee !!    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape 2
    1
    Day 31

    Kangaroo Island Day 1

    November 20, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 25 °C

    We have thoroughly enjoyed that view today and finished the day with a glass or two of sparkling Shiraz on the beach this evening with our hosts; could be worse!
    We have also explored part of the north side of the island. Whilst Kangaroo Island is not huge, the distances between places are large and take a while, even though you see little in the way of traffic. Few roads are direct. The northern coastline is calm and tranquil. There are lots of exquisite bays, home to many seabirds including pelicans and black swans. American River is a small and charming settlement. I was on the lookout for the rare Glossy Black Cockatoo often seen in this area, but not today sadly, only the white version. American River gets its name from a group of American sealers who landed in 1803 and camped alongside the Inlet, thinking it was a river. Wandering towards the cafe for a coffee, we diverted into a rebuilt boathouse to look at the partly reconstructed Schooner 'Independence'. On chatting to some of the volunteers we found out that the original was the first vessel to be built in South Australia. It was bought to these shores, it is thought, in basic kit form (IKEA eat your heart out!) from the crews base in New England. The young Captain Pennington was only 24 and his crew younger and they were hoping to take back a fortune in seal skins, but sadly the plan backfired, as the journey took so long the victims had emigrated to Antarctica for the summer! We discovered that George Vancouver had been one of the first to sail this way and chart the coastline. We remarked that we hailed from Vancouver's hometown, which interested the guys immensely and we told them a little of King's Lynn's history and the rebuilding of The Baden Powell, a project that has much in common with their own. In two minutes they had The Baden Powell up on Google and the phrase 'a small world' was all around.
    Tomorrow we tackle the south coast and the temperature is promising to be around 35 degrees - Help!

    As a postscript, arriving back from the beach, I went to open the screens at the back of the cabin and nearly jumped a mile. There were two kangaroos only 10 feet away. My cup runneth over!    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape 2
    1
    Day 32

    Kangaroo Island Day 2

    November 21, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 28 °C

    Boy, it has been a hot one today. The temperature hit 100 degrees Fahrenheit this afternoon and we arrived back at the villa this evening like a couple of grease-spots. A cool shower had never been so welcome. We set out to discover the southern coast this morning, picking out the features that interested us most. It is relatively quiet here at the moment, as it is just before the children's long summer holiday. In a few weeks the island will be heaving.
    We drove to the far end of Kangaroo Island (a 2hour drive) and the Flinders Chase National Park. It is a large area of wilderness, occupying most of the western end of the island, rich in wildlife and with a stunning coastline. The southern coast is the complete antithesis of the north. High eroded limestone cliffs and the southern ocean pounding along its length. We stopped at the visitor centre to pick up maps and pay the entrance fee. To my delight when we emerged from the car, there were koalas in the gum trees overhead. I counted six, including a mother and baby. They are so gorgeous and so brilliantly camouflaged, that you could pass within two feet of one without realising. They spend the vast majority of the day snoozing in the fork of a tree looking like a furry grey football and the night chomping on eucalyptus leaves. I even managed to forget the dratted flies for a few minutes as I snapped away.
    We drove another 15 Kms down to the Admirals Arch boardwalk at the end of the promontory. It descends through the eroded cliff top that looks just like a perfectly planted rock garden. Alan Titmarsh would be thrilled with it. There are perfectly adapted plants and grasses dotted throughout the limestone pavement. It is a joy to behold - well for some of us anyway! There were fur seals basking on the rocks below and swimming so calmly and elegantly in the wild surf as it crashes on to the rocks. Again, their camouflage is brilliant and you need to look very carefully to pick them out.
    Turning a final corner you come face to face with the most spectacular limestone arch. The roof is gnarled and dripping with stalagmite like drops in black and white and the eye is drawn to the snarling ocean crashing on to the rocks below. A lone sentinel male fur seal is silhouetted against sea and it is a true wonder of nature. The climb back up to the the car park was tough going in the ferocious heat.
    Our next port of call was to the Remarkable Rocks, yet another of Mother Natures masterpieces. On a another promontory stands a dome of granite that was exposed to fracturing and weathering over two million years ago and balanced on the top are these incredibly arranged and eroded rocks. I will post a picture and if I were to tell you that this was a Henry Moore sculpture you would not be surprised! We did not manage to get up close and personal here. The flies were just ferocious and even with a fly net, the whinging poms could only stand so much and had to beat a hasty retreat to the car. Mind you there were plenty of whinging Aussies as well! Weir Cove was the other feature we were keen to visit, but a three mile hike in over 100 degrees did not appeal and would have been pretty foolhardy if I'm honest, so pictures will have to suffice.
    There are also some beautiful beaches further along the south coast, one of which is home to a colony of the Australian Sea Lion. We walked a long boardwalk through the dunes in the stifling heat and came to the overlook. There spreadeagled on the beach were the creatures we had come to see. After a couple of minutes Peter says "Is this it then? Are they going to do anything?" At which point a couple of the bulls squared up to one another before quickly settling down to another zizz. I had to admit defeat and we retreated to the visitor centre for a well deserved ice cream. A highlight for Peter I suspect; the ice cream that is!
    And so our stay on the beautiful unspoilt Kangaroo Island is almost at an end and we will enjoy our view from the villa for the final evening; study our resident kangaroos that are out there once more and watch a delightful pair of electric blue fairy wrens bickering in the wattle bush outside. Life can be sweet, once you've cooled down and had a glass or two of something interesting!    Read more

  • TravelerGrape Escape 2
    Day 33

    The Fleurieu Way

    November 22, 2017 in Australia ⋅ 18 °C

    We left Kangaroo Island yesterday on the 10o'clock ferry and slowly drove part of the Fleurieu Way to Victor Harbour. It was a quiet Wednesday morning and we scarcely saw a car, or person, for the whole sixty kilometres. The south coast of the Peninsula is the most beautiful area. It is a wonderful rolling landscape of mixed agriculture, with a vista of crops, grassland, plentiful trees and grazing animals. The sparkling blue sea is visible it seems around every other corner and it does have a hint of England if I'm honest, but warmer and sunnier!
    Our home for the next three nights is a golf club complex on the edge of the town. It is peaceful and our room overlooks the surrounding hills and first tee. It made for interesting viewing first thing today, as golfers queued to tee off.......FOUR!! There were some sights, even to my untrained eye.
    Today has dawned cooler, around 75 degrees, which has been much more palatable to the whinging Poms and talking of whinging Poms, the first day of the Ashes series began this morning at the Gabba in Brisbane. We watched the toss and saw England into bat before heading off for the day, with our fingers crossed.
    It has been a day of exploration mainly along the coast. Victor Harbour itself is the largest of the settlements and whilst being pleasant enough, would not hold the attention for long. It is set at one end of Encounter Bay and has Granite Island just off the coastline. This can be visited by causeway from the mainland and is home to the Little Penguins. ( been there done that) The guy in the Tourist information said the one thing we must do is visit this by horse drawn tram. (?!) We passed. Out in the bay, was a rather curious looking object with a boat moored alongside. It looked like a circular deck with people cavorting around it. On enquiry we established that this was where one could 'swim with the tuna'! I've heard of swimming with dolphins or whale sharks, but this seemed bizarre. Peter announced that there was no way he was paying an extortionate amount for the privilege, when he could run a bath at home and chuck in a couple of tuna pouches to the same effect!!
    We progressed down the coast to Port Elliott and Goolwa. These were much smaller, but charming and we had a good wander round, visiting bakeries (another PL pick!), art galleries, waterfronts etc. As ever, the Australians were very happy to chat and the morning passed very pleasantly.
    A late lunch was called for and we headed up into the hills to search out Mt Jagged Winery that I had seen in a brochure. We found it about 15kms out of town and had a fabulous epicurean lunch, tasting a couple of their wines. We couldn't pursue a full tasting as we were driving, but sampled a very good Semillon and a dashing sparkling Pinot Noir. Gorgeous spot with chickens free-ranging it all around. The garden roses were stupendous and we've noticed that before. We passed a beautiful garden in Kangaroo Island whose roses the RHS would have been proud of. Apparently, the climate here is very well suited to roses, despite the heat and sometime drought, they cope well. Our day concluded with a drive through the Hindmarsh Valley, which was another ooh & aah session. Simply beautiful countryside and the whole area is so unspoiled. This part of South Australia is definitely under the radar.    Read more

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