Christmas Day in Napoli

For the last four days, we have turned left when leaving our hotel, and have explored the Greek, Roman, and medieval part of Naples. Turns out that if your turn right,you will jump ahead a few centuries and find yourself on 19th century promenades along the sea with 12th century castles guarding the harbor. We visited the San Carlos opera house, the fascist looking Piaza dei Plebescito, and then the glorious promenade, with Vescuvius on one side and many happy Neapolitan families on the other, all enjoying the fabulous Christmas Day weather.

We even took a quick detour to Piazza dei Martiri, the place where Lila’s shoe store is located in the Ferrante books. And guess what, there is a fancy shoe store named Ferrante near the square. I assume that is where the author got her nom de plume, very mysterious.

We had a fancy Christmas meal in an old hotel along the ocean. Some forced formality, but all in all a delicious meal. Best lasagna I have ever eaten — with porcini mushrooms and truffles; and the desserts were pretty awesome too.

Sorry to say that we are leaving Naples tomorrow, heading to Sorrento. From all accounts, it is sanitized and tourist-trap-py, but its location makes it a good spot for visiting Pompeii and Herculaneum.

The receptionist in our hotel tells us that Rick Steves has told people not to go to Naples. I personally think that that one comment, if true, disqualifies him as an “Italy expert.”

Merry Christmas one and all!Read more