Day 3: Rio de Janeiro

A much better day, with plenty of exploring. First stop is my old hunting ground, Largo do Machado where I stayed last year. It's another unpretentious neighbourhood, the large square headed by a grand church (N.S. da Gloria), market stalls, exercise machines, card players and vagrants. Continuing northwards towards the bohemian neighbourhood of Lapa, I stop for a self-service lunch. This is a great Brazilian institution, with an assortment of dishes which meat and vegetarian alike, are charged by the kilo. So a good fill-up for R$18 (about US$6).

Onwards to another bohemian quarter, Santa Teresa, which is reached by the old-fashioned yellow tram, the "bonde", which rumbles across the Arcos de Lapa, a former aqueduct. S.T. is a bit run down but in a charming way, with cobbled roads and late 19th century villas in mock-French and German styles. The walls are covered with graffiti or when done properly, street art, in which the bonde features prominently.

Finally at ground level, a return to Lapa and the scenic Selaron staircase. This was designed by a Chilean artist using ceramic tiles with the colours of the Brazilian flag although later on he added reds and blacks. It's popular with tourists and sometimes musicians as well but I see only those featured in street art, or on posters such as Pink Floyd tribute bands. (This legendary band is big in Brazil and pronounced "Pink Floydge").Read more