Buenos Aires to Montevideo

After a few to many beers the day before, we had a late start today. Looking at the map we aimed for Palmero. With sweeping parks full of roses it was elegant and open. We jumped back on the metro and grabbed a quick lunch overlooking Congress. An imposing building with many interesting sculptures decorating its front. Again we joined a walking tour (sensing a theme yet?) and meandered our way from Congress to the Pink House, passing Tango Cafès and a Dante's Inferno inspired building which has a partner in Montevideo.

One of the most moving stories we've heard is represented by handkerchieves painted onto the floor of Plaza da Mayo. During its military dictatorship many men went missing, theorised to have been executed and dropped from airplanes, never to be seen again. In the square the mothers would protest in pairs, as they could be arrested if they were in greater numbers. They wore the handkerchiefs on their heads and asked where their children had gone.

More recently a new group called grandmothers of the missing campaigned to find their grandchildren. Pregnant mothers that opposed the dictatorship would be allowed to carry their baby to term before they were killed. These babies were then given to families within the dictatorship. They find these babies now by DNA testing, with about 100 found so far.

The day after we caught a ferry and the bus to Montevideo Uruguay. We can't help adding another stamp to our passports! We've arrived on a Sunday and Montevideo is a ghost town! We ambled down the rambla a walkway that extends the whole of the cities coast. We walked from leafy square to leafy square, just stopping from time to time to sit. After a busy few days in BA, it was nice to enjoy some peace as we sipped beer, and listened to a saxophonist play pink panther and moon river.

Our hostel is an amazing family run place called Hostel Babilonia, with gorgeous inside spaces. Tonight we seem to have the place to ourselves (and the 4 month old puppy that loves James' smelly socks!). Outside on the street corner something is being filmed and we spent a few minutes listening to the flair and sass of its American director.

Hostel: Babalonia- a costly £50 for 2 nights but we did have the whole hostel to ourselves! Run by two women who made us a lovely breakfast, They were struggling against the bigger hostel chains in the city. It was a beautiful space with greenery hanging from the roof, but felt very empty with just us two.Read more