Astorga

The journey to Astorga from Leon was marked by some days of walking in light rain. The countryside had that earthy smell that rain brings. The walking was mostly through corn fields and farming communities. Long flat stretches, mainly along roads connecting village after village.

It was a different experience to be walking alongside private hunting reserves also! This was a different experience! At times we heard the hunters gun explode the silence In the nearby scrub and this quickened our step considerably!! Later we were told that the quarry was pheasant!

From here on we were to walk through many pathways which were flanked by hunting reserves. One afternoon, while walking through the late afternoon, a lost hunting dog followed us along the path. It was a plucky little beagle! She sniffed the air continually, then realising we were of no use to her in finding the pack, turned around from us and howled! As we continued on our way, we could still hear her howling for the pack and her owner, still out on the reserve! The howling echoed across the hills so loudly, I was certain she would be found and that this may have happened before!!

On arriving in Astorga, we found a city with a distinctly Roman flavour. Set atop a steep ridge the city still has some of its medieval walls surrounding and was important during Roman times as it was the junction of several important routes for trade and transportation. The Camino also meets the via Aquitana and the Roman silver route, the via de La Plata which comes up from Seville. There were 20 pilgrim hospitals in medieval times there! By the time they reached Astorga, they would be in great need of help!!

The great architect Gaudi also designed the bishops palace there but he died before he could enjoy it! It is now the Museum of Pilgrimage! See pic. Trattorias and Pizzerias abound there, but the most important thing about Astorga I think, is that it is famous for its chocolate, complete with a chocolate museum! This pilgrim definitely did not miss out!Read more