Portomarin

The beautiful clear, cool days of the previous week in the high mountains finally came to an end. Walking in rain and at times fog and mist helped us appreciate why Galicia is so green and lush! I was also to learn through my stone bruised feet, that by the time we were to reach Santiago a few days later, that this final stage would not be an easy one.

Most of the 22km walk to the town of Portomarin took us via country roads and tree lined pathways. Again we climbed up to Alto Paramo at 660m and then a steep descent to cross the Rio Mino at 330m would yield an interesting story about its town.

As you can see in the pics, this river carved a steep mountain valley fed by upper streams and small rivers as well as snow coming from even higher. Testament to the power of this river are the remnants of medieval bridges and the old town whose ruins lay on its banks.

In recent years, the original town was moved to higher ground on the opposite side of the valley to make way for the damming of the river and creation of a reservoir. Evidence of flood after flood and erosion was everywhere as we made the final climb up into the old town.

The Romanesque church of San Juan with links to the knights of St John was painstakingly rebuilt stone by stone when it was moved to make way for the reservoir. On the stones you can see the corresponding numbers to assist the rebuilding of this 10th Century church, literally, stone by stone!

The last pic shows an interesting structure. Walking through the rural villages with their lush vegetable gardens, cows and chickens, these structures became a part of the landscape of every farmhouse and household. Can you guess what they are used for?Read more