A 30-day adventure by S Read more
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  • Day 9

    Uralla

    July 15, 2018 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 7 °C

    Our accommodation for the next two nights is the little town of Uralla in 'A Room with a View'...and they weren't kidding. Our beautiful cottage overlooks acres of land as well as being a marvel in itself - a large chalet with views a around, fully appointed kitchen, dining table, tv, huge bath and bed and a lovely veranda with a bbq...not a bad place to spend one's birthday! It is all heated by a very cosy wood burner which was roaring when we arrived...which given it for down to -7° last night we are very excited about!

    After checking in and grabbing some food, we headed into Uralla proper for a beer. This small, quaint, vaguely western/cowboy looking town has maybe 20 shops on one street including two pubs, a model aircraft shop, gun shop, sweet shop, brewery, winery, book shop, drive-thru off-licence and wool shop...We think we could live here and all our immediate friends and family be well catered for! (plus the next city over of Armidale has two fabulous-looking private schools!).

    The Top Pub (one of two in town, the other known at the Bottom Pub) served beer from the local brewery which we duly sampled from pumps encased in ice they were so cold. We also took the opportunity to puchase some local wine from the off-licence with a 50% success rate of "nice to drink" (although a 100% success rate of "we'll drink it anyway").

    Despite many people reminding us it'd be winter out here, the temperature has yet to really phase us. However, the light is another matter. At about 5pm every evening it almost instantaneously gets dark; that plus the temperature trip makes it feel like a brisk English winter...and having just conquered jetlag, dealing with season-lag is a whole other battle! However it does mean that each one of our stops so far has yielded the most unbelievable view of the skies - more stars than it would be possible to count and clear views of the milky way every night. The photos Ben had got with his camera are truly stunning.
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  • Day 11

    Birthday in Uralla

    July 17, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Breakfast was included in our stay...and was huge! The bacon here comes in very long rashers, and in addition we had eggs, a freshly cooked loaf and Anzac biscuits...absolutely stuffed!

    As we had two nights in Uralla, we were able to spend my birthday on a more suburban adventure, beginning in the local city of Armidale. It seems almost everything here dates from from the 1880s and certainly all of the buildings look like a cross between victoriana and Red Dead Redemption! The town itself however was much like most towns and largely unexciting. A brief stop at the arboretum on the way out was a pleasant, if wintery, stop.

    Taking a 'tourist drive' back to Italia we discovered that just because something is demarcated as a main road does not mean it is sealed. We made slow progress to Uralla where we did some shopping and stopped for birthday cake and beers before heading up to Mount Mutton Lookout - a rather disappointing hilltop aerial surrounded by trees which made looking-out rather superfluous. Instead, we retreated and headed to the "fossicking" site near our cottage. We spent a little time pulling bits of gold out of the river bed but the water was so cold our fortune was cut short.

    We spent the evening over a homecooked curry and a bottle of bubbly from the vineyard on the same road that we were staying on. After days of nagging Ben to let me take a kangaroo home, he gave me a really lovely present of a silver kangaroo necklace 😊
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  • Day 11

    Coonabarabran

    July 17, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    After an early start from Uralla (and a friendly chat with a couple of Aussie bikers who knew where Loughborough was) we hit the road for the 3 hour drive to Coonabarabran. The scenery en route was a surprising mix of rust-coloured barren soil and autumnal-coloured trees. Travelling west through the healthiest Australian koala population we were hopeful of seeing one, but no such luck. We did however pass through Moonbi and their giant fibreglass chicken, and Tamworth and their giant golden guitar (this all had a bit of a Route 66 feel to it). The closer to Coona we got, the longer and straighter the roads got and, sadly, the more dead kangaroos on the roadside we saw.

    Coona itself was quite similar to Uralla but felt like slightly more "country" (comparatively, Uralla seemed quite cosmopolitan). As Australia's only dark sky reserve, we booked in some telecope viewing for the evening before heading out to Warrembungle National Park and the Anglo-Australian Telescope of Siding Spring. Ben was in his element...I learnt physicists are unimaginative as I read about the Extremely Large Telescope and it's cancelled successor the Overwhelmingly Large Telescope.

    In the park proper, we headed to the visitors' centre, where I topped up my stationary collection with a kangaroo pencil, before heading to White Gum lookout. On the way, we were greeted by so many kangaroos who all stopped to look at us as much as we looked at them, making for great photos.

    After dinner (at which we learnt young people in Coona have nothing to do other than sit in Subway) we drove - slowly - along a dark and kangaroo lined road to Warrumbungle Observatory. We were treated to spectacular night skies and a PowerPoint presentation which included half the slides Ben teaches from. We saw Mars, Jupiter and Saturn, plus nebulae, clusters, binary stars and even another galaxy (plus more than a few shooting stars). Ben was able to get some lovely shots again including one attaching his camera to the big telescope.
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  • Day 12

    Bathurst

    July 18, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    A long day today. A four hour drive took us from Coona to Bathurst via Mudgee (annoyingly pronounced like 'budgie'). The early morning roads were sadly littered with dead kangaroos once again, and we were told later that some of this was a consequence of the two-year drought meaning they come to the roadside to take advantage of any water. This aside, the drive was a pleasant jaunt through tiny townships and up and down the rolling vineyards.

    We hadn't planned to stop in Mudgee but on passing through we saw a crowd and stopped to see what was going on. As it turned out, there was a film crew recording a scene from Doctor Doctor and we were able to watch them take a scene with horses bolting through the town.

    On to Bathurst - after a brief concern that our petrol was running quite low - we checked into the hotel before popped into the Fossil and Mineral Museum for a glimpse at an amazing collection of minerals and Australia's only complete T-Rex skeleton. The amber collection was particularly impressive and included a tiny gecko fossilised within one piece.

    After a trip back to the hotel, we planned to drive out to the Bathurst Harness Racing Club...however we got sidetracked en route by the opportunity to drive the Mount Panorama racing circuit (albeit at 60kmph). The views it affords over Bathurst are wonderful, and even at low speeds, the chicanes feel a little hairy!

    At the Racing Club, we watched jockeys on tiny horse-drawn carts (harnesses?!) compete whilst we placed 50 cent bets...and won not a single penny! However, I did get to bet on 'Dinosaurus Rex' which was some recompense. A pleasant trackside dinner and five races later we headed into Bathurst for the Winter Festival and mainly to take in the illuminated buildings, and we saw a possum to boot. The winter night really was biting however so we stopped for a coffee on a heated balcony overlooking the festival before heading home to plan for tomorrow's drive to Wagga Wagga.
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  • Day 13

    Wagga Wagga

    July 19, 2018 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    The hotel in Bathurst provided a lovely hot breakfast before we headed out for the day. We considered beginning with the National Motorsport Museum but settled for a couple of laps on the Mount Panorama circuit before setting out south for Wagga Wanna.

    The four-hour drive soon flattened out and became far more green than we've been used to seeing (hopefully not due to the torrential rain we are apparently heading towards in Melbourne). Mercifully a lack of roadkill and lambs frolicking in the fields made for a lot more heartening journey.

    Wagga Wagga is the biggest town we've been in for a while and had more shops but had the littlest going on with few museums or events. So we found a local microbrewey and tried the local brew and hit the "beach" (an inland sandy riverbank) before enjoying happy hour schooners and chips at Bay85. A more relaxed and uneventful day than our previous, but tomorrow we head to Melbourne!
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  • Day 14

    Melbourne

    July 20, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    The longest of drives so far was preceded this morning by the greatest of breakfasts - fabulous poached egg on toast plus a side (Ben = avocado, me = bacon...sigh...) and a massive glass of freshly pressed orange/apple juice. The next nearly five hours were spent on the road, and depressingly on motorway which made for excellent cruise control but boring driving.

    Once in Melbourne (and our spectacularly located hotel) we walked into town. In Chinatown, we came across 'Rice Workshop' and the food was brilliant - spicy teriyaki chicken and salmon teriyaki. After a wander around the city, we stopped briefly at Federation Square where we enjoyed the spectacular sight of a man trying to eat his dinner whilst fending off an advancing army of seagulls. We enjoyed a pint in the middle of the river under a bridge on Pony Fish Island, before catching a tram (Melbourne's centre is serviced by an entirely free tram network) to Victoria's Parliament.
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  • Day 15

    Melbourne Day 2

    July 21, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    A whole day in Melbourne today - our first day without driving anywhere for a while. We began with a fantastic breakfast at Arbory overlooking the Yarra River. Despite the winter temperatures, the sunshine made the city gleam as it towered over the flock of rowers out on the water.

    Hoping for a tour of Parliament, we caught the old-school city tram, forgetting however that Australia keeps the strangest working hours - everything seems to be open from 10 until 4 on some days of the week. Today, being Saturday and therefore clearly not a tourist day, both Parliament and the Treasury museum were closed. So instead we popped up to the 35th floor of the Sofitel for striking views over Melbourne.

    Continuing on foot, we wound out way north to the Exhibition Hall and through streets of amazing two-storey Victorian houses with beautiful ironwork stood side-by-side with huge skyscrapers. This all led us to the Queen Victoria Market, a huge craft/fruit & veg/deli/wine/fashion and about everything else market. In anticipation of our planned afternoon jaunt, we bought a couple of hats before grabbing lunch. Sushi Hut had a fab selection of sushi and Ben, being a foodie, wanted to try to inari of jellyfish, baby squid and octopus.

    Back on a packed tram we headed west to the docklands and bought a couple of tickets for the AFL (Aussie Rules Football) match that evening from the Etihad Stadium. In the docklands shops, there was a huge array of art collective shops and 'Dodgy Paper' sold fabulous handmade paper made from...well just about anything. Some from jigsaw puzzles, billboards and even a stack made from pulped 'The Art of the Deal' books by Trump! My most exciting find of the day though was a travel but with a tea strainer built in for just $5 from Typo 😊

    The AFL match 'bounced off' at 4.35pm and we watched the home team Essendon play the Western Australian team of Fremantle. With no idea of the rules, or even match length, we settled in with some beers for what turned out to be the best part of two-and-a-half hours.

    We walked back afterwards, stopping for a lovely pizza dinner at the Metropolitan Hotel before finally heading back to our own hotel.
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  • Day 16

    Into Canberra

    July 22, 2018 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    Long drive today - nearly 7 hrs and 700kms from Melbourne to Canberra. We set out early and broke the journey for tea and fantastic cake (and petrol) in Albury. We skirted the Alpine National Park taking the motorway for almost the whole day which made for quite boring driving...especially in an automatic car with cruise control.

    At Canberra, arriving around 4pm (and bearing in mind it gets dark about 5pm here), we went for a walk to view the Australian Parliament from across the bridge before grabbing some food and wine for the room, and settling in for a relaxing evening of Australian Ninja Warrior!
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  • Day 17

    The hard streets of Canberra

    July 23, 2018 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    An early start today and a beautiful sunrise greeted us from our hotel window. After a smashing breakfast in the hotel, we set out in the (very) brisk morning air for a 5km walk to Parliament. There was frost everywhere and the air was so cold, especially in the shade, and on the hills in the distance the cloud was still hiding the peaks. But we powered (walked) through and made it for the 9.30am tour of Parliament seeing both chambers and the Great Hall, but sadly the roof and much of the rest of Parliament was being renovated.

    We planned to head to the Mint from there but it became apparent it was slightly too far to walk, so instead we wandered past the Old Parliament and along the water's edge of Lake Burley Griffin (via a brief stop at the National Gallery which was in lockdown and the National Portrait Gallery which required us to check all our kit so we gave it a miss). Back over the bridge we passed the huge Captain Cook Memorial Jet. Turning up Lonsdale Street back to the hotel, we grabbed the car and headed to the Mint. It features a fascinating museum display and visitors gallery over the rooms where coins get made but sadly we didn't see the process in action. We did see a $30,000 good coin though!

    We headed for a brief stop at the Australian War Memorial next, thinking we'd see the museum, drop the car back at the hotel and walk back for the Last Post - so wrong. The Museum was phenomenal - we got there a little after 2pm and left a little after 5pm and that absolutely was not enough time. The Museum itself was arguably more impressive than the Imperial War Museum. Whilst it was Aussie focussed, this meant it showed a far greater range of the theatres of war in WWI and WW2. It also had galleries looking at the Holocaust, Special Forces, VC winners and a special aircraft exhibition focussing on the night bombing role of the Lancaster, and probably yet more that we missed. Just superb.

    Around the grounds of this huge museum are numerous sculptures and militaria including guns, vehicles and the bridge from the HMAS Brisbane plus memorials to almost every conflict the Australians have been involve in. At the centre of this Charles Beam designed memorial (the Aussie journalist/historian who went out with them to Gallipoli as a reporter and stayed with them until the end of the war) is a hollow reflection pool and remembrance area including the roll of honour and the hall of remembrance which included beautiful stained glass windows and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. We stood at the far and and watched the daily Last Post ceremony which today commemorated the Australian involvement at Pozieres which began 102 years ago on 23rd July 1916. After a each of the Australian 1st, 2nd and 4th battalions had been rotated through twice, it had cost the Australians around 23,000 men, albeit successful in their mission. The Australian Air Force were hosting the South Korean Air Force at the ceremony, both of whom laid a wreath too.

    After dropping the car back at the hotel, we took advantage of the end of happy hour at Grease Monkeys (who apparently well burgers "you'll go ape shit for", although we didn't check this out). Justbdoen the road at Hopscotch, a *huge* $10 chicken schnitzel, salad and chips was dinner along with some trivia. However after a day of pounding the Canberran pavements, our legs and feet were calling for bed!
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  • Day 18

    A longer than expected drive to Sydney

    July 24, 2018 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    When we departed Canberra, the morning temperature was little more generous, so at least the car wasn't frosted. We drove to the Canberra Deep Space Communication Project - a series of huge dishes hidden in the forests and valleys southwest of Canberra which relayed the first images of Neil Armstrong on the moon...Ben was in his element. The route wound through wilderness preserves and a good number of 'roos made for a nerve-wracking drive, especially having seen a couple of huge kangaroos bouncing across the road early on in the 25km drive.

    Rather than motorwaying to Sydney, we headed east to Nowra, planning to pick up the Grand Pacific Drive. On the way, we made a brief stop at the Tianjana Falls (sadly dry) whilst driving through cast forests and winding country lanes. At Nowra, we broke for cake, before picking up the coastal highway only to be immediately thwarted by road closures. At Kiama, we stopped to take in the 'Kiama Blowhole'. This rock formation means that when the sea rushes in it sprays upwards, like a whale. A mildly amusing but brief stop! The whole day's detours easily doubled the journey time compared to taking the motorway, but was far more interesting.

    Ben bravely drove the stint into Sydney and we drove in via Mrs Macquarie's Chair to get our first glimpse of the Harbour Bridge and Opera House, which looked fantastic in the sunset. The hotel was phenomenally just minutes away from the Opera House (thanks to the VSC reciprocal membership!) and the dining room has views of both the bridge and Opera House. After parking up, we headed into Circular Quay to round off the day and managed to find, almost by accident, the three oldest pubs in Sydney. Easily the best was the Lord Nelson which not only brewed a great array of beers on site, also served a fabulous ploughman's for Ben.
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