Gros Morne, Newfoundland

After 8 hours on a ferry, we arrived in Newfoundland and drove another 3 hours up to Gros Morne. The last hour we were on high moose alert. Signs are posted everywhere which we heeded with both of us scanning for these giants. We made it safely into our Old School House AirBnB. It is as it says, an old school house on Bonne Bay near the Tablelands. It seems that this is only one of two places on earth were a chunk of the earth’s mantle was squeezed up instead of down creating some stunning landscapes and haven for earth science lovers.

Weather predictions meant we needed to get out on our first day before the thunderstorms hit. We took an easy hike along the Tablelands with the help of an iPad self-guided tour to interpret what we were seeing. The stark beauty of the rocks, small streams and falls plus lots of wildflowers including a carnivorous one were wonderful. We spent the afternoon hiking along Trout Pond - which should be called a lake - and got pretty damp with constant drizzle and vegetation up to our knees at the edges. It was pretty and not cold so... we enjoyed it.

Thunder and lightning put on a loud and kinda scary show that night. Buckets and buckets of rain. Cool - while tucked in bed.

A geologist’s heaven, we went up the Lookout trail to view the Tablelands, Gros Morne and mountains, Bonne Bay and Arms, and the wide open waters of St. Lawrence Bay. Goat trail. Straight up for 300 meters in a mile and a half. Like climbing up to Council Crest - fast. With the weather report looking dicey, we booked it pretty fast (for us). It was hot. Hot and humid. I was sweating like a pig. The views up there were totally worth it. Alpine meadows, more flowers, and a spectacular view of the whole area. The afternoon turned out to be warm and sunny. We went back to Trout Pond and took a dip. Nice.

Our host offered moose stew with homemade dumplings for dinner. OMG that was delicious. Not gamey or sour. Like a tender beef only different. We also ate Partrigde Berry jam, seaweed-infused gin and an actual iceberg! Greg, our host had a chunk that he broke off (not sure where). It fizzles! Bubbles from thousands upon thousands of years ago trapped in the compacted ice. I called it dinosaur breath.

We have been particularly lucky with the weather but didn’t want to test fate so we left the School House in the morning to set up our tent at Green Point - on the other side of Bonne Bay. We were rewarded with sunny or overcast skies and only a little drizzle during the days. Our first night camping proved the meddle of our tent with torrential rains and wind. We escaped with only a few wet spots.

Camping in Nova Scotia and here in Newfoundland is a luxurious affair. Hot private showers and here with heat lamps, dishwashing sinks also with hot water, flush toilets, covered cook areas and picnic tables you don’t mind putting your things on top of. They even have recycling centers. I don’t know if you are seeing all the ads to come to Newfoundland but I think these upgraded facilities are a part of Canada’s plan to boost the economy here.

The parks offer lots of free guided tours too. This morning we learned about the formation of rocks along the shore that are still a mystery to the scientists who try to figure these things out. In the afternoon, we spent time learning about the fishing families who harvested cod, salmon and lobster until the three brothers got too old to fish. One of their daughters donated all the old fishing equipment for the exhibit housed in their original fish house. She also gave furniture and such in the teeny cabin housing all three brothers, their wives and children. Each one of three bedrooms were just large enough for a small double bed. The main room had a two stackable twin beds for the older kids and shelves were built above the parents’ beds for the little ones. Tight quarters, indeed. The guy giving the tour had a delightful yet understandable Newfie accent dropping Hs and clipping his sentences.

Tomorrow we head up to Labrador for a few days.Read more