In the Footsteps of the Incas

The flight from Lima to Cusco takes about 75 mins by plane, however we have been told that the same journey takes 24 hours by road. As I gazed from my plane window down at the rugged terrain below, it was very easy to see why this would be the case.

For the traveller the main challenge of taking this short flight is the extreme gain in altitude in such a short time. While Lima is obviously at sea level, Cusco sits at an oxygen starved altitude of 3500 metres. The flight is spectacular and the landing at the small airport is enough to keep the knuckles white. Fortunately we landed safely although the sudden impact with the runway would have only scored a 3/10 on the pilot's skill scale.

We were met at the baggage carousel by a diminutive Peruvian who introduced himself as "Abel Puma" and then ushered us to the waiting bus. "Do not exert yourselves today", he advised. We didn't need any encouragement to move slowly as our heads were already spinning and our lungs gasping as we made our way along.

Our hotel is situated right in the centre of town, right next to the Plaza Major and the ancient cathedral. All around are reminders that Cusco was the magnificent capital of the entire Incan Empire. This empire flourished and spread for around 500 years, before it was almost wiped out by the Spanish in the 1500s. This city will also become our base of operations for the next few days. Our first task ? To acclimatise to the thin air.

After our arrival at the hotel we decided to walk (stagger) to the nearby Plaza to search for somewhere to have lunch. We found a balcony cafe with a panoramic view of the plaza and the surrounding mountains and settled down for our first high altitude meal. For one of our group, the pressures of the past two days has already proven to be too much, so he decided to stay flat on his back in the hotel instead.

Cusco reminds me of a frontier town, lacking the polish and sophistication of a modern city, but absolutely steeped in history and folklore. The legacy of the Incas is all around with many of the current buildings actually built on the solid foundations crafted by the Incas over 500 years previously. It is also favoured by the neo hippy types that wander the streets in search of hash. I had not walked far before I was asked several times if I wanted to "buy some weed".

My wanderings were cut short as I only lasted a couple of hours later before exhaustion overcame me as well and I headed back for a rest.

After an evening briefing by our cycling guide we walked a short distance to a nearby restaurant for dinner. Without our presence the place would have had a quiet night as we were the only ones there. As I ate my meal I gazed at the huge mural that covered the wall of the restaurant. It depicted Mother Earth supplying the needs of the people and was liberally highlighted with shining gold sections. I suggested that David could paint a similar mural on his living room wall when he gets home, but he looked back at me with glazed eyes. I think he needs sleep.

On the walk back to the hotel I heard the unmistakable sounds of a talented busker singing a succession of Bob Marley songs. I had jokingly asked earlier in the day when we were going to hear Bob Marley and here he was. This music was a feature of all our early Ghostrider overseas rides and I took this as a favourable omen for the success of this trip. I could hear the music long after I returned to my room.

Compared to the smog and humidity of Lima, the weather in Cusco is clear and dry at this time of the year. I think the pattern will be warm days and chilly nights under the Andean skies.Read more