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  • Day 16

    Sarria to Portomarin

    October 3, 2018 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We all well knew that our journey along the Way of St James was rapidly drawing to a close. Tomorrow we would arrive at the famous ancient Cathedral of Santiago and our own Caminos would be over. After sharing so much together over the past two weeks I am not really sure if we are actually wanting the experience to end, or whether some part of us would like it to continue for longer.

    Although we only completed a part of the entire Camino, it was impossible for us not be effected by the passion that draws so many people together in a united goal. In such a fragmented and divided world it is rare to see so many people of so many different races and faiths all drawn along by some invisible force to just "walk to Santiago". Whether or not you really believe that Santiago is literally the final resting place of St James, it is still a very moving experience to be a very small part of.

    The path was soon shrouded in a foggy mist which filled the valley. It seemed entirely appropriate and reminded me of the misty drizzle that had accompanied us as we departed from Roncesvalles on what seemed like a lifetime ago. The path very quickly turned uphill and we were all measuring our steps as we gained altitude. I looked around at the crowd that was around me and tried to imagine what had drawn each of them from far and wide to this same point in time and place. For a short while our lives would be tied together, and we would soon part to disperse all over the planet.

    The crowded path gave us a great opportunity to chat with other walkers, This had been something that I had been looking forward to, even before beginning the Camino. The conversations would usually begin with "Where are you from ?". The rest would flow freely. There is something about walking side by side with someone that encourages inhibitions to slide and for serious matters to come to the surface easily.

    Along the way there were regular Camino posts which steadily counted down the distance to Santiago, unfortunately many of these were covered in graffiti. It is so hard to comprehend why so many would feel inclined to permanently damage these markers by writing their names all over them or worse still, stealing the brass distance marker itself.

    The 100 km post has special significance, unfortunately it was the most defaced of all the previous ones. Dozens of walkers had covered the post with their names and other messages.

    The rolling hills rewarded us with amazing views, but also "blessed" our tired legs with numerous steep climbs and descents. Although my feet have fared pretty well after walking well over 200 km in the previous ten days, there was no doubt that my legs were tired and my toes would be very glad to be finally freed from my walking shoes.

    We stopped for lunch at a busy café. There was a continual queue outside the single toilet and a waiter that would have done the legendary Manuel proud. Fortunately the food was OK and we were soon on our way again.

    The walk ended with a very steep descent down to Portomarin. At this late stage of the day and after 8 hard days of walking, all of our calves were protesting loudly. We then had to cross a huge (and VERY high) bridge across the Belesar Reservoir. The height made some of our walkers feel strong vertigo.

    It was a relief when we finally saw our parked bus and Raoul our driver. It had been one of the longest days of the trip, but the scenery was worth it. I checked the GPS and it told me that we had walked 24.5 km. No wonder I was a little worse for wear.

    All that remained was a transfer to our hotel at Arzua. Unfortunately this ageing 2 star Hotel Teodora was the worst of the trip. Situated right on a busy road the noise continued all night long, supplemented by the loud shouting of boozed up backpackers till after 3 am in the morning. At 2.30 am someone chose to add even more noise by racing up and down the street outside and dropping wheelspins along the way.

    The non air conditioned rooms were hot and tiny and mine came complete with the lingering smell of tobacco smoke (in spite of the prominent non smoking sign). In a surprise twist of events the evening meal was easily the best (and certainly the most copious) we had enjoyed for the entire trip. So much so that much food was left piled on plates uneaten.

    Tomorrow we will complete our Camino and finally get our first sight of the famous Santiago Cathedral.
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