Camino Frances 2019

May - June 2019

May - June 2019 Read more

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Peregrina888 Camino Frances 2019
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- May 14, 2019, 2:08pm
- ⛅ 23 °C
- Altitude: 564 m
- Spain Navarre Igúzquiza 42.644768, -2.06270842°38’41” N 2°3’46” W
Day 7
Villa Mayor de Monjardin, Navarra
May 14, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C
Landed at a wonderful albergue run by a Dutch couple, famous on the Camino for their gracious hospitality and fervent spirits.
I staggered in late afternoon and got one of the last beds. Lucky me! Great communal meal and meditation after dinner with the hosts, who really care about deepening the pilgrims’ experience. Some came to get their feet massaged and some came to get their souls tended to.Read more
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Peregrina888 Camino Frances 2019
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- May 14, 2019
- ⛅ 19 °C
- Altitude: 435 m
- Spain Navarre Ayegui 42.663548, -2.03335542°39’49” N 2°2’0” W
Day 7
Estella, Navarra
May 14, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C
Much to see in Estella, but first had to deal with a burst yogurt in my backpack. Yuck...a mess which slowed me down a bit.
But the ceremonial wine tasting outside of the town is always a fun moment.
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Peregrina888 Camino Frances 2019
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- May 15, 2019
- ⛅ 22 °C
- Altitude: 461 m
- Spain Navarre Arcos, Los Los Arcos 42.569141, -2.19257142°34’9” N 2°11’33” W
Day 8
Los Arcos, Navarra, Casa de Austria
May 15, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C
A most bizarre thing just happened as I was settling into Los Arcos, a frontier town, after a most tedious four-hour trudge that I thought might never end. I approached an older woman in alleyway asking for directions to the plaza. She looked at me wide eyed, and I then noticed the dead bird dangling by its legs from her right hand.
She sort of yelled at me, “You want food??” and beckoned me to follow her...a few steps and she directed me towards a doorway where breadcrumbs were scattered for the birds; she seemed to be offering me the breadcrumbs on the ground. I responded no thank-you and with trepidation asked again for directions to the plaza. She glared at me with arched eyebrows and flung the dead bird behind her through an iron gate without skipping a beat, and then pointed with her newly liberated right arm in the direction of the plaza.
Hello, Los Arcos!

Camino families. Today I fell out of sync with my nascent Camino bond with a 72-year old Brazilian man who I’ve been “walking with” since Pamplona where I offered to share my room with him as he was having a hard time finding lodging late in the day. We walked in lock step for two days after that, over the Alto del Perdon, but I knew I was holding him back and that he was feeling solicitous out of gratitude.
After another half day of walking, I could feel my desire to be solo again growing stronger and so I told him in Puente la Reina that I wanted to walk alone to think about the next stretch of road, as it had a deep significance for me from the last Camino with Stuart. He took it well and since I had already booked us both in advance at the next albergue, the wonderful Casa Magica, I knew we would meet again there later.
Likewise, last night we met at a prearranged lodging and today, he has moved on, and I am stopping for a breather. Today was 15 km and that’s enough for me in the unrelenting sun.
So, my Camino family is still very tenuous—the older set who I keep running into I am in no way endeared to. This is as it should be because this is the first time I have done anything like this completely alone, and it feels very right to maintain my solitude.Read more
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Peregrina888 Camino Frances 2019
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- May 16, 2019
- ⛅ 18 °C
- Altitude: 484 m
- Spain Navarre Viana Ondarre 42.514988, -2.37346342°30’54” N 2°22’24” W
Day 9
Viana, Navarra
May 16, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C
Today’s walk of 19 km from Los Arcos to Viana is nicknamed “The Knee Wrecker” because of the ups and downs.

The walk to Viana was through rolling olive groves and vineyards. The smell of blooming olive trees I can only liken to the breath of God.
I prayed for those who have lost their children, one of the most difficult crosses to bear in this life, and in particular for Irene, and the two men from Dublin that I met in Zubiri.

I enjoyed a quiet day with my thoughts, little talk and even less shade. Made it to Viana and had a lovely dinner with a sympatico new pilgrim friend, Candy, from San Diego. (Little did I know, I would never see Candy again after that lovely talk. So it goes.)Read more
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- May 17, 2019, 10:49am
- ☁️ 10 °C
- Altitude: 403 m
- Spain La Rioja Logroño Varea Pantano de las Cañas 42.492661, -2.40832842°29’34” N 2°24’30” W
Day 10
Logrono: Entering La Rioja
May 17, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
A rainy day with gusting winds 20-25 mph made this morning’s 10 km walk to Logrono pretty miserable. I’m not using a poncho as they flap like a sail and create drag, not to mention how sweaty they get. I prefer a windbreaker, layers and my trekking umbrella which protects me from wind and rain. All my pack stuff is in dry sacks and plastic bags, but the brolly keeps the pack pretty dry. So I get a little wet on my extremities, but dry quickly. Had to wear socks on my hands to keep my paws warm.

I’ve decided to stay in Logrono, capital city of La Rioja, for the remainder of the day. Will check in the parochial (church) albergue here which I hear has a wonderful Camino vibe. I really prefer the parochial refugios to the bigger municipal albergue I accidentally walked into today which felt cold as a prison. Many municipal albergues are wonderful though, don’t get me wrong!Read more
Hey Alice ~. So sorry I had to miss seeing and visiting with you today. But India send the whole link, and I’ve tried to follow you daily. I’m so impressed both with your travels and connections (as well as non-connections) with your fellow travelers and your great pics and dialogue to share with us.
5/17/19Reply
Sorry Alice. I hit the return button and I forgot NOT to do that until I want to send. Stay well, healthy and happy. You definitely are an inspiration ❤️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️🚶‍♀️ Honey.
5/17/19Reply
Peregrina888 Thanks Honey! It means a lot to me that you are following on Find Penguins. Do me a favor and send the whole link on to John and the others would you? Thanks, and Chao!
5/18/19Reply
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Peregrina888 Camino Frances 2019
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- May 18, 2019, 1:00pm
- ⛅ 11 °C
- Altitude: 560 m
- Spain La Rioja Azofra 42.428535, -2.81359242°25’43” N 2°48’49” W
Day 11
Ciruena, La Rioja
May 18, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
Strange town we ended up staying in with a huge golf course and housing developments all around it, seemingly empty—just a ghost town with the Camino running through it. The only life I see here is pilgrims occupying the two albergues and a bar.
I’m averaging 15 km (9-10 miles) per day, which is slow but fine for me, walking about 5 hours per day. I need to stop by 3 pm to avoid feeling too wrecked and having no time to regroup for the next day’s walk. Tomorrow is another chilly, rainy day.Read more
Odd town, I wonder what the draw is? How early do you start? I'd be inclined to start with the sun up, walk until 11, break until 3 and then maybe put in 2 more hours. Is this at all practical? Of course if it is cool and more comfortable, then I may well hike through the mid day. Cheers Alice!
5/18/19Reply
Probably built as a speculative suburb of Santo Domingo which fell apart after the 2008 collapse. Start at 8:30 am and try to finish by 3-4 pm to get a bed in the albergues which go quickly. You need to find a place unless you prebook, the you have wiggle room. Still, you need time to shower and hand wash your clothes and join others for the evening meal at 7 pm. Pretty much defines your day, the walking.
5/19/19Reply
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Peregrina888 Camino Frances 2019
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- May 18, 2019
- ⛅ 12 °C
- Altitude: 501 m
- Spain La Rioja Nájera Arroyo de Pozuelo 42.416866, -2.73109242°25’1” N 2°43’52” W
Day 11
Najera, La Rioja
May 18, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C
Starting here today, jumped a stage by bus, and happily reencountered Neii, my pilgrim friend from Brazil. So we walked together in the cold rain, 16 km, to Ciruena, a strange town which seems mostly abandoned—built recently but a ghost town. Perhaps a result of the 2008 financial collapse?Read more
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Peregrina888 Camino Frances 2019
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- May 19, 2019, 11:32am
- ⛅ 8 °C
- Altitude: 653 m
- Spain La Rioja Santo Domingo de la Calzada 42.4394, -2.95228542°26’22” N 2°57’8” W
Day 12
Santo Domingo de la Calzada
May 19, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C
Walked here this morning with Neii and we visited the cathedral which has an amazing art collection and a theme centered around the story of the “Hanged Innocent”, a very old tale told all over Europe and depicted here graphically. The Calzada (Rooster) is the city’s symbol and indeed I heard one crowing this morning. Santo Domingo is reportedly buried in the middle of the street.

Really entering the rural hinterlands now and the smells are sometimes overpowering.Read more
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Peregrina888 Camino Frances 2019
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- May 19, 2019, 4:00pm
- ⛅ 11 °C
- Altitude: 736 m
- Spain La Rioja Grañón 42.437527, -3.02333942°26’15” N 3°1’24” W
Day 12
Ermita de la Carrasquedo, Granon
May 19, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
Settled into a municipal albergue which is basically empty. We have a room with 10 beds all to ourselves. Only two other pilgrims here on another floor.

This hermitage is one km off the beaten path of the Camino, in a small isolated forest, but that suits me perfectly right now. I’m really enjoying the quiet and lack of jostling with other people for one night.
It has been rainy and cold for three straight days now. Today was 16 km. We are hoping for some sun to break out tomorrow, but Neii heard that it is snowing in O’Cebreiro, a mountain we will be climbing in a couple of weeks.

Onward to Belorado and Tosantos (hopefully) for the night to allow for a fairly big climb over a hill the following day. So glad to have the elevation profile to plan our walks.Read more
Here's to your solitude for tonight and sun tomorrow and for the days ahead. Cheers!
5/19/19Reply
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- May 21, 2019, 10:07am
- ⛅ 11 °C
- Altitude: 870 m
- Spain Castille and León Burgos Plaza Mayor 42.343121, -3.70067842°20’35” N 3°42’2” W
Day 14
Burgos, Castille y Leon
May 21, 2019 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C
Made a decision to take a bus to Burgos for a rest day. I have not taken a full day off walking in two weeks and it’s time.
So today I’ll visit the Burgos Cathedral which Stuart and I dubbed “Disneyland for Jesus”
Burgos Cathedral is just over the top—overwhelming—I spent two hours there.
It’s like an archaeological dig with layers of Gothic, Baroque, Renaissance and Roccoco architecture and art so rich I feel like I ate an entire chocolate ganache cake at one sitting.Read more
Yum!
5/21/19Reply
Wild. Love the ceilings and the forms. The 3-D visual narratives beckon, so I can put self in the feet of first receivers and make sense of them from the time they were created. A bit over the top for me overall. Glad you took a day.
5/21/19Reply
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