Argentina
Recoleta

Here you’ll find travel reports about Recoleta. Discover travel destinations in Argentina of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

63 travelers at this place:

  • Day2

    La Recoleta

    March 11, 2017 in Argentina

    Ab ins Getümmel. An einem Samstag morgen hält sich dieses allerdings noch begrenzt. Der erste Abstecher zum Friedhof ist nur ein paar Blocks entfernt und dort angekommen besticht Dieser von seiner reinen Vielzahl an Mausoleen. Hier reiht sich eine Gruft an die andere, meist geht es noch eine Treppe hinab ins Familiengrab. Das macht Hunger und so sitzen wir nur ein paar Minuten später mit ein paar Empanadas und 2 Bier in der Sonne. Die brennt. Yeah.Read more

  • Day17

    Art???

    March 4 in Argentina

    We had a lazy day, as we were tired and were changing apartments —moving from Palermo to Recoleta, so that we could have an experience in another part of BA. Given that our apartments in Palermo was spacious and clean, I think that we were all having some misgivings about our earlier decision to pack up and move. But, the rental period was up and off we went.

    Our new digs are located in a building that was probably constructed in the 1930s. The lobby is pretty unassuming, and the elevator is tiny — more like a small closet (so small that the three of us and our luggage could not fit in one trip). We went upstairs and found a charming 2 bedroom, two bathroom apartment. At the time that the apartment was built, this must have been considered a very luxurious apartment. Why? First, when you get off the elevator on your floor, there is a small entry and only one door, for one apartment. Second, there are two entrances to the apartment — a front one for residents and guests, and a back one, which must have been for the maid. This is pretty funny, given that the entire apartment is probably no more than 400 square feet! Third, there are two sinks in the kitchen — one for dishes and the other for laundry, etc. We settled in and set out to have a bite to eat and to explore San Telmo Market.

    We had a lovely lunch, with some tasty empanadas near San Telmo. Every guidebook that we read made it clear that going to San Telmo for the Sunday market/street fair was required. We read that it was filled with antique vendors, and craftsmen. Well, you can’t always believe what you read. The market was filled with lots of old junk, and the handcrafts were tourist novelties. But, committed to making the best of the situation, we found ourselves some fun.

    Kelly spied some tango dancers in a square. While they weren’t fantastic, it was fun to see some regular folks — including a man of about 70 — dancing in the square.

    Then, we walked down a side street, and Kelly saw a shop that had Fileteado art. It took us some sleuthing to find the entrance, but when we did we were delighted to meet a young artist who was working in the studio. He told us that this style of art developed in the 1920s and 1930s, and began as decorations for carriages. Over time, the art was used to create signs that advertised bars, cafes, and tango dances. The art fell out of favor, and has been revived by some young artists. Some of the pieces that were on display were not for sale, as they are part of an upcoming exhibition (sadly, as Kelly had her eye on a piece), others were for sale. I snagged two small signs to hang at the River.

    Our next stop was the Museum of Modern Art. When we walked in, we were surprised to learn that admission was free. We soon found out why; the building is being remodeled and there was only one exhibit. But, what an interesting exhibit. The artist is Tomas Saraceno, who is an Argentinian. For a reason that was lost in translation, he is fascinated with the art created by spiders (aka, spiderwebs). Apparently, he has spent more than a decade studying spiders and working with scientists who study arachnids. He and a team spent months gathering 17 colonies of spiders to create a large installation. These are all “social” spiders, who work collaboratively and creating spider webs. (Fortunately, after we say the exhibit, we also got to see a film demonstrating the process and while it was in Spanish, we could get the general idea.). The installation is in a very large room — 190 sq meters. The walls, floor and ceiling are painted black. In the center are wire/metal frames. The artist and his team gathered 7000 spiders, and introduced them into the exhibition space. Over a period of 6 weeks, the spiders spun a series of webs that stretch and hang over the frames. Spot lights highlight the webs. You walk around the edge, so that you don’t disturb the webs. (The spiders were removed, but no one at the museum could explain how that occurred and I couldn’t find any explanation on the internet.). Pictures really don’t do the exhibit justice. Honestly, it was just wild.

    From now on, when I run into yet another spiderweb at the River, I’ll simply call it art and walk around the side.
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  • Day18

    Recoleta

    March 5 in Argentina

    Today we tackled the most upscale neighborhood in BA — Recoleta. This neighborhood is also home to the most famous cemetery in all of South America — the Recoleta Cemetery.

    We joined another walking tour led by Buenos Aires walks — a group that I highly recommend. Our guide was Mariano, who grew up here in BA. With 70 of our closest friends, we spent 3 hours engrossed in stories of the aristocracy in BA.

    Recoleta was settled in the late 1860s, following two cholera and one yellow fever outbreak in San Telmo (the part of the city that was closest to the river, and which had stagnant water that bred mosquitos). To escape illness, the wealthy residents of San Telmo fled to their “estaciones” (landed estates), and established new homes. Since this period of movement coincided with a tremendous growth in affluence in Argentina, these wealthy landowners built mansions, typically in the French style. It was due to this period of building that Buenos Aires was given the nickname of the “Paris of South America.” (Apparently, Portenos — as residents of BA are called —hate this nickname.). As you walk through Recoleta, you see one huge mansion after another. Although a few of the mansions are still privately owned, most have been converted into hotels (the Four Seasons), and embassies (the French embassy is in a particularly beautiful mansion, which the French saved from destruction when the Argentine government planned to demolish it to install a new freeway.). One of the main streets — Alvear — is like the Rodeo Drive of BA, filled with fancy boutiques, perfumeries and gorgeous hotels. Many of the buildings have gorgeous ironwork on the doors and balconies. The streets are lined with beautiful old trees and there are lots of parks with monuments. The area is just stunning. Honestly, I could have walked for hours in the neighborhood.

    We ended the tour at the Recoleta Cemetery, where the aristocracy of BA rests for an eternity. Since we were famished, we decided to save the cemetery for another day, and headed to a lovely French cafe named Roux, where the service was lousy but the food was yummy.

    After lunch, Arie and Kelly headed back to the apartment for a nap, while I wandered aimlessly around the neighborhood. Just walking around gave me the sense of the vibrant life of BA. I also enjoyed watching people pick up their kids from school. Here, the children are in school from around 9am, to at least 4 pm, and sometimes as late as 6pm. A fair number of the children go to private, parochial schools, and wear uniforms. The children who go to public schools also wear a type of uniform — a white coat (like a small version of what a doctor wears) or a pinafore (for the youngest children). We were told that the wearing of these coats/jumpers were meant to level class distinctions. It doesn’t appear to have worked, as you can still see the children’s clothing, but the tradition has lingered. I laughed as I watched the kids peel out of their “coats” as soon as they left school, stuffing the discarded items into backpacks or thrusting them into the hands of their parents.

    For dinner, we went to an old school parilla — Pena Parilla — which has been open for decades. We ate delicious steaks, and French fries. I swear that I’ve eaten more red meat since arriving in this country than I have in the past 12 months.

    We had arranged to have a very late dinner (10 pm), so that we could go to a Milonga afterwards. A Milonga is essentially a dancehall for tango. This is NOT a show with professional dancers. Instead, it is a hall in which regular people go to dance. Some people arrive with partners, or with groups of friends, but many people (women and men) go alone, just for the joy of dancing. There are over 300 Milongas in BA, and they are open every night of the week. We went to Milonga Parakultural, which is open on Monday, Tuesday and Friday. Classes for novices are held from 9-11pm. Afterwards, the dance floor is open to anyone.

    We arrived at the Milonga around 11:15. We paid 150 pesos per person to get in (which is $7.50) and we were seated at a table one row back from the dance floor. We ordered a drink, and started watching the dancers. The dancers were all ages, shapes and sizes. The women were more dressed up then the men, but some of the men sported jackets or vests. Some of the couples only danced with each other, but most people seemed to change partners every few dances. Some of the dancers were great, and some were so-so, but they all seemed to be having great fun. The thing that was surprising was that the number of dancers grew and grew, as the evening wore on. (We had read this in articles about the milongas, but it is hard to believe that this actually would happen on a Monday evening.). So, when we arrived at 11:15, there were people on the floor, but plenty of room to dance. By the time that we left at 1am, the dance floor was packed, and people were still arriving. Apparently, the best dancers don’t show up until 2 am or 3 am at some of the more popular Milongas. Watching the people dance was delightful. While I can’t imagine mastering the tango, perhaps Arie and I try out some swing dancing when we get home.
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  • Day12

    Buenos Aires- Recoleta

    March 2, 2017 in Argentina

    We decided to explore the area of Recoleta first, the posh bit of the city, similar to Chelsea in London. We jumped onto the local bus expecting to just swipe our cards and be on our way. The driver was asking us where our stop was. Cue my panicked expression, he just waved us through with inpatience and we had a free bus ride!

    We joined free walking tours Buenos Aires, our guide for the morning was Martín. Full of historical and political knowledge he took us through the streets of Recoleta. He colourfully told the stiry of the ruling class "the oligarchis", and how their pettiness shaped the area. They wanted to be on par with europe so they built great palaces, trying to out do each other. Three old women especially splashed their money in a competative craze. Now Recoleta looks European due to their influence.

    We passed the Malvinas war memorial and heard the history from the Argentinian perspective. A military dictatorship losing favour tried to win a war to regain national support. Martín also took us through their Economical upheaval. The Peso is undergoing huge inflation by 45% a year! Prices are starting to get towards European levels. Back in the 80's he described how inflation was so bad supermarkets would shout out new prices whilst you were in the store!

    In the afternoon we toured around Recoleta cemetary in blazing heat, helped by a Mc Flurry to cool down! We were taken around by Francis and were told the interesting stories of many of the mausoleums; the girl buried alive, the woman and her dog. The graveskeeper who commied suicide to be buried there and a welshman so paranoid about being buried alive he invented a system to escape from his coffin. One of the last graves we visited was that of the tour guides great grandparents!

    The most famous grave is that of Eva Peron aka Evita. The wife of the president in the 50's she divided opinions in Argentina, beloved by the left working class, hated by the upper class who upon her death said "Viva la Cancer". After her death her poor corpse was moved, mutilated and had dark magic performed upon it. She was finally laid to rest decades after her death at her fathers mausoleum.

    After a busy day in the sun we made a suprisingly delicious stir fry and collapsed in bed!
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  • Day100

    Buenos Aires

    October 28, 2017 in Argentina

    We spent a few days walking around the city's tourist sites. Visited the famous cemetry, took a visit down to the old port of La Boca, wandered through an art museum, checked out the cathedral and took an afternoon stroll through the park.

    Next stop.... Patagonia

  • Day112

    Don't Cry for Us Buenos Aires!

    November 18, 2017 in Argentina

    Our flight for Buenos Aires was set to leave Puerto Iguazú and all the usual airline procedures were followed. But because the flight was domestic, the safety demonstration was completely in Spanish. Did they say the seat doubled as a flotation device? And how many emergency exits are there? The hostesses just seemed to throw their hands into the air, pointing at random parts of the plane. With no dramatic landings this time, the challenge was to find a way out of the airport.

    Über is illegal in Argentina, due to the lobbying of the taxi drivers, so this meant catching a taxi or bus. To avoid the stress of trying to navigate the bus system in Buenos Aires, we opted for a taxi. So we jumped in and started to converse with the driver, telling him where we wanted to go. The driver, then, gave us an estimated cost for the journey: 800 pesos. This amount was a lot more than the 200 pesos we were previously quoted by our Air B&B hosts. We knew inflation was high in Argentina, but this was obscene. We argued with the driver until he pulled up alongside the road and we promptly jumped out with our luggage. Ricky turned to the driver and, thanks to bad Mexican telenovelas, he called him a thief in Spanish, ladron, which was met with a mouthful of abuse, none of which Ricky understood. We then realised that we had the correct street address but not the correct suburb of Buenos Aires. Oops! Sorry driver. Luckily we had this altercation otherwise we would've ended up in the wrong part of town and poorer for it.

    Once we had settled in, we joined the free walking tour of downtown Buenos Aires. This gave us an opportunity to get an overview of the city and its history. The tour commenced in Centro, then went through Retiro and finished up at Recoleta, where we were staying. For some reason, the tour group was full of Brits, some of whom were offended by the Tour Guide's account of the Falklands war. Who would have thought it would be offensive to say that the British were colonists? If the truth hurts ...

    The following day was a public holiday to celebrate national sovereignty. National public holidays seem to be following us, along with the rain. It was a good opportunity to relax, and develop a new addition. The Caiprinihas of Brazil were replaced with lemon mojitos from the local Dia supermarket, which was dangerously positioned at the bottom of our apartment complex. Jason fulfilled a dream and finally became a member of the Dia supermarket cult, so that he could enjoy the daily bargains on offer. Jason had fallen in love with the supermarket chain in Madrid, where he would, almost religiously, purchase his baguette for afternoon tapas. Bucket list. Tick.

    There was one cultural tradition that was never going to be part of our daily routine and that was drinking mate, a national drink in Argentina (and Uruguay). It's best described as a green tea with freshly cut grass-clippings that had been scooped out of a mower. We took one sip of the drink and almost vomited. What are we going to do with half a kilo of it? Regardless of the health benefits, it was never going to take over from the mojitos, beer or any of the dulce de leche (caramel) filled desserts.

    Once we recovered from our mojito hangover, we were set to explore the Recoleta cemetery, which was located near our apartment. The cemetery is occupied by former Presidents as well as the most famous Argentinian, Eva Perón (Evita). The first challenge was trying to find Evita's grave and, after circling most of the cemetery for what felt like an hour and constantly referring to the cemetery map, we finally found the gravesite, only minutes before we were ready to give-up. As we stood in front of the tomb, we looked over and saw a colleague from QUT. A few minutes earlier or later and our paths would have never crossed. What a small world it is after all!

    After the tour of the cemetery, we struck up a conversation with two young guys, Ronald from Venezuela and Francisco from Bolivia. Apart from conversations with Air B&B hosts, this was the first time that we put our Spanish conversational skills into action. We are fairly certain that they were laughing at us because of our pronunciation and not the content of our conversation. It's all practice and maybe one day some of it might sink in.

    The next challenge was to work-out the bus network in Buenos Aires. After figuring out the correct bus and where it was departing, we jumped on-board to discover that you can't buy tickets on the bus and need to purchase a special card. With the card sorted, we headed to the south-side of the city to an area called La Boca, with its brightly coloured tenement buildings. With street art covering the walls of the neighbourhood, Jason was in his element. Instagram sensation eat your heart out. But he hasn't gone viral yet (by the way, when did viral become something desirable?).

    Any visit to Buenos Aires has to include a trip to La Casa Rosada, the Pink House, where Evita lived and delivered her famous speech. But getting to Centro by metro presented us with another challenge. We walked what seemed to be the entire subway and could only find two platforms. Tucked away in a hidden spot, where there was no signage, was the gateway to the other platforms. Phew! Another physical challenge overcome.

    The last and final challenge for Buenos Aires was finding stamps and a post box. This proved to be the most difficult challenge of all. It seems no-one uses snail mail anymore. We eventually found a shop that sold stamps, after trying to find an ATM, which it too was a challenge to find. It seems that many ATMs in Argentina don't accept foreign cards. Even using a credit card in a shop requires showing your passport. And now we understand why most people don't post letters or postcards – you need to take out a small mortgage or rob an ATM to buy the stamps. Then, try and find a post box! We built-up our hopes as we approached the only one we had seen for kilometres, but as we got closer, all of our hopes were shattered. It had been decommissioned and was no longer in service, reduced to being a mere garbage bin. Oh well, an excuse to return to Argentina. Don't cry for us Argentina. The truth is, we never left you (well, just for a while).

    Next stop: Montevideo.

    For video footage, see:
    https://youtu.be/-vdKxyDEb6o
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  • Day298

    Buenos Aires, Argentina

    March 7 in Argentina

    Buenos Aires is a vibrant, huge city that reminds me a lot of New York. We started traveling with a friend we met from New Zealand who is traveling the world in search of the ultimate party. Per his recommendation we stayed at the ‘best party hostel in Argentina,’ Milhouse. We explored the city by day and tried to keep up with the partiers at night, but failed miserably. In Argentina people do not go to the clubs before 3:00 am!! This is way past Andreas and my bedtime. We did manage to hang in there until 1-2am. However, I didn’t mind when we saw people coming HOME from the club while we were eating breakfast at 9am!!!

    We had a great night at a tango show. It included a three course meal, unlimited wine, tango lessons, and a spectacular tango show. The costumes, music, and dancing blew us both away. We even got certificates to show that we passed a basic tango course... if you are lucky we will show you our new skills. Another day we went on a bike tour of the city and the famously colorful La Boca area. It is clear that football (soccer) is life here. We met one fan who is so dedicated to his team that he had the La Boca stadium tattooed on his back. We experienced this passion first hand at a football game! Getting into the game was an experience in itself. We walked through multiple security checks and passed rows and rows of police in full riot gear. Once in the game we sat behind chain linked fence topped with barb wire. Alcohol is also banned in the stadium. Obviously these games get pretty out of control. The game was fun and full of spirit (we tied 1:1). Fans even climbed the fence and shook the barbed wire to show their support!

    On a side note, we had an attempted break in of our hostel locker. The lock was very bent, but it held. Luckily nothing was taken. A reminder that we need to be diligent of theft in South America. Next stop we head south to Bariloche, the top of Patagonia.
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  • Day85

    Buenos Aires - Recoleta

    November 19, 2016 in Argentina

    In the Recoleta neighborhood of Buenos Aires are two famous spots to see:
    - "Floralis Genérica" is a 20 metre high and 18 tonne moving sculpture of a flower. The flowers aluminium petals open and close by sunrise and sunset.
    - The "Recoleta Cemetery" became the citys main cemetery after wealthy families began moving to this part of the city. The remains of many noteworthy people rest on the site, including former presidents, writers, nobel prize winners, sportsmen and businessmen. One of the most visitet tombs is that of Eva Perón, more known as "Evita". We were astonished about this extravagant and labyrinthine cemetery!Read more

  • Day20

    Recoleta Cemetary

    March 7 in Argentina

    It seems fitting that our last stop on our BA adventure is the Recoleta Cemetery, where dozens of Argentinian aristocrats rest in piece. The cemetery, which is 4 blocks square in the middle of BA, was established more than 200 years ago. Each mausoleum is a family—owned piece of real estate, which is maintained by the family. The tombs vary in size, but the general principle stays the same — bodies are first interned on the top level, and are visible through the door or a grate. Over time, the disintegrated remains are transferred to smaller caskets, and are transferred to the below ground levels. A family is free to sell their plot. But, many plots are abandoned and have fallen into disrepair, with cracked windows, collapsed ceilings, and piles of dust and debris. The entire cemetery is both beautiful and sad.

    Although the cemetery is only 4 square blocks, the number of family plots is overwhelming. We walked around for over an hour, looking at the tombs, and peeking inside, and didn’t even begin to see everything. The style of each tomb differs, although the most common style is Art Deco, as that corresponds with the largest growth in building. Some of the tombs are in active use, with markers indicating that someone had been interned in the last few years, and fresh flowers or plants inside. But the vast majority look like no one has visited for decades.

    After strolling around, we headed back to the apartment, packed our bags and went to the airport. We bid goodbye to Kelly, who was flying back to Flagstaff, and we went to catch our plane to SFO. Much to my surprise, Arie had snagged an upgrade of our seats, and we traveled home by business class. I must admit, a girl could get used to this type of travel.
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  • Day23

    "Don't leave the mam up a mountain"

    September 2, 2017 in Argentina

    The first of September is a memorable day for us. The start of our adventure - well, the South American one at least. We finally flew out of London at 11.45pm yesterday, headed for Buenos Aires on the only delayed flight out of Heathrow. We still arrived on time though - strong tail winds. Even the babies in our section were 'flying high' in their wall-mounted cots. Exactly 8 years ago this day, a Tuesday, I began working at MHS. Chris was still encarcerated in the LRI following major surgery (although I broke him out a day later) and we were at the school barbecue together on the Friday. There were hotdogs, and he had brought beer and a bottle opener, despite the fact that he was 'nil by mouth' and couldn't partake of any of it. He didn't like to think that I would be missing out on anything! We talked to Mary who I had known all of three days, about supporting a student in a cookery lesson where the ingredients were 'all via mouth' on the way to the bowl, and occasionally up the nose as well. We are hoping that this journey will not be short on such contrasts, and we are definitely not going to be holding back on savouring the experience in full on this trip, preferably with all of our senses.

    This morning we have checked out our new neighbourhood of Recoleta, an up-market area of Buenos Aires, full of cafes and small restaurants, homeware stores, beardy hipster barbers, and best of all, panaderias, full of cakes and patisserie, all of which seem to contain custard. This afternoon we visited a local cemetery - oh yes, he knows how to show a girl a good time. It is a pretty spectacular cemetery though, the second most popular tourist attraction in Buenos Aires apparently, like a small city - reminiscent of Pompeii I thought, with similar width 'streets' between the tombs. Of course, the most famous resident is Eva Duarte Peron, but she rests in quite an unassuming family tomb, off the main tree-lined 'plaza'. Nextdoor is the Church of Nuestra Senora del Pilar, described in the guidebook as a 'jewel of colonial architecture'. It was a cool resting place before we explored the craft fair opposite. It has been very warm this afternoon, unseasonably so for early Spring. Tonight we are staying local to eat - the Parilla Laureana comes recommended. Central Buenos Aires and San Telmo tomorrow.

    No mountains so far, but Olivia knows my record on getting lost and the heights we've climbed.
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Recoleta, Barri de la Recoleta, 레콜레타 동, Rekoleta, Реколета, 雷科莱塔

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