Dead Isle

Part One: A Quirky Prelude of Ice Cream and Memories

Triabunna, our launchpad for Monday's Maria Island adventure, beckoned on the horizon. Bicheno, a town etched with memories from two years ago, drew us in first. Familiar landmarks sparked recognition, and we couldn't resist pulling over for breakfast with Grammy and Fran. The view from the restaurant was a feast for the eyes, but the food and company truly nourished our souls. Refueled and reconnected, we ventured onward.

The Bicheno Blowhole, a natural wonder we'd encountered before, was up next. While the conditions weren't ideal for a dramatic display, its raw power still held a certain spectacle. Back on the road, a detour became irresistible. Two years prior, on Anth's birthday in Coles Bay, we'd indulged in life-changing ice cream. A 30-kilometer detour couldn't deter us from reliving that memory.

As we rolled into Coles Bay, nostalgia washed over us. Memories of our previous visit danced in the air, and whispers of future winter adventures in Freycinet National Park tickled our ears. Our nomadic lifestyle had transformed us into free spirits, following the whims of our hearts. Arriving at the ice creamery, even under an overcast sky, the view of the bay nestled against the towering peaks of Freycinet was breathtaking. We wandered up, anticipation building, and to our delight, the ice cream lived up to its legendary status. Grammy, a newfound convert, beamed in agreement.

With Triabunna just an hour away, we continued our journey. A short while later, we stumbled upon a remarkable sight – the spiky bridge, a testament to convict ingenuity built in 1840. We stopped to admire its unique design, another layer of history woven into the tapestry of our adventure.

We rolled into town in the early afternoon and chose our camp for the night behind the local pub. Maria Island awaited in the morning, a promise of exploration and discovery.

Part Two: The Curious Voyage of Fossils and Dolphins

The first light of dawn crept across the horizon, coaxing us from our metal havens and towards the marina where our trusty vessel awaited. This wasn't a typical adventure for us, a boat tour gifted by Grammy's generous hand. Yet, here we were, embarking on a journey to circumnavigate the entirety of Maria Island.

The day dawned overcast, but the water lay flat and serene, a mirror reflecting the cloudy sky. Mic, the owner of Maria Island Cruises, exuded a wealth of knowledge about the island and Tasmania itself. He was our captain, our guide, our storyteller, for the day.

Our circumnavigation began at Darlington Probation Station, a stark reminder of Tasmania's convict past that loomed large at the island's northern tip. As we travelled clockwise, the island unfolded its secrets one by one. The Fossil Cliffs, giants standing sentinel over time, emerged, their surfaces etched with the stories of creatures that swam the seas 300 million years ago. Seeing them up close from the vantage point of the boat was a privilege, the day's first awe-inspiring moment. The calm seas allowed Mic to weave a small detour, piloting us into a hidden cave where the fossils were even more magnificent. A lone white-breasted sea eagle perched high above, a silent witness to our exploration.

The dramatic shift in the cliffs on the island's eastern side mirrored Mic's own infectious passion for geology. Here, he unveiled a geological marvel – metamorphic rock layered beneath sedimentary rock, capped by igneous rock, a testament to the earth's ancient forces. None of us were geology experts, but his enthusiasm, coupled with the mind-boggling formations, held us all captive.

As if on cue, Mille, the first mate, chimed in with a hopeful wish for dolphins. Her words were barely out of her mouth when Mic steered us towards a pod of common dolphins, their sleek bodies slicing through the water as they feasted on a school of fish. They swam in tight circles, occasionally approaching the boat for a curious peek. Their playful dance was soon joined by several albatrosses of different varieties, all vying for a share of the fishy feast.

Leaving the dolphins to their meal, we continued our journey south, the granite cliffs giving way to the idyllic beaches of Riedle Bay. Here, we paused for a delightful morning tea, the perfect fuel for the adventures ahead. A pair of wedge-tailed eagles soared high above the cliffs, their cries echoing across the vastness.

The southern tip of Maria Island emerged soon after, its crown jewel being Peron's Pyramid – another jaw-dropping rock formation. Sleepy sea lions basked on the sun-warmed rocks, while a dozen playful pups frolicked in the water nearby. The island's magic unfolded with every passing mile, and we hadn't even set foot on land yet.

Our journey then took us north along the island's sheltered side, where we dropped anchor in Encampment Cove, the opposite side of the isthmus from our morning tea stop. Lunch was served on board, a convivial affair despite the full passenger capacity. Only a handful of us braved the cool winds to enjoy the view from the top deck.

The final leg of our sea voyage before reaching land was a trip past the painted cliffs, another breathtaking vista best appreciated from the water. Disembarkation time arrived, and with it, a surge of excitement. We were about to explore just a fraction of this island paradise, but the anticipation of encountering our furry friends – the wombats – was palpable.

Part Three: The Last Chapter: Wombats and Wandering Souls

Following the guided tour wasn't exactly our usual off-the-beaten-path adventure, but with Grammy and Fran in tow, it was a chance to explore together, a different kind of adventure.

And what an exploration it was! We weren't even five minutes into the walk when we stumbled upon our first wombat sighting – a mother and her joey munching contentedly. Despite two months of crisscrossing Tasmania, these elusive creatures had remained frustratingly out of sight. But here on Maria Island, the promised wombat paradise, our patience was finally rewarded.

The walk continued, and it became clear that this island was a true wildlife sanctuary. Wombats were everywhere, unbothered by our presence. Grammy, never one to miss out on an exciting animal encounter, was in her element – this was her first wombat sighting too!

Our path wound through the grounds of the old probation gaol, adding a touch of historical intrigue to our wildlife adventure. The animal parade kept growing! We came face-to-face with plump Cape Barren geese, darting bandicoots, brightly coloured swift parrots, and curious pademelons. Each new encounter fuelled our sense of wonder, and we stopped countless times to marvel at the wombats, their every move captured in a flurry of photos and videos.

The two hours on the island flew by in a whirlwind of discovery. As we boarded the boat back to Triabunna, a wave of nostalgia washed over us. We already knew we'd be back – to camp, to hike, to delve deeper into the island's secrets. The beauty of our nomadic lifestyle, with its boundless opportunities, meant we weren't confined by the constraints of a set vacation schedule.

Back on the mainland, waving goodbye to Maria Island, an island off an island off an island, we reminisced about the day's adventures. It was unanimous – this was the undisputed highlight of our Tasmanian journey with Grammy so far.Read more