Brazil
Mato Grosso

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    • Day 11

      Pantanal day 1

      February 14, 2023 in Brazil

      First day in the Pantanal (State of Mato Grosso, apparently one of the richest in Brazil ??). After breakfast introduction to the inhabitants of the pousada: the blue parrot, the blue and yellow parrot🦜, alligators 🐊... and mosquitos 🦟 😵.

      Morning walk to the tower and horse riding with Alfredihno, in the afternoon (my volunteer offer as dinner for the mosquitos ://).

      Lesson learnt: my guide told me in Brazil never ask about politics, women and football. Still I can't resist asking about the last elections to the locals...
      His response: "I have a family, a bank debit and so... for who do you think I voted?" Easy guess, he is bolsonarista 🥸

      Fun fact: in Brazil Valentine's day is not celebrated on the 14th of February but on June 12th, because it is too close to Carnaval 😜😏... why this doesn't surprise me? 😎🤷🏼‍♂️

      Personal reminder: Add pics from iPhone
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    • Day 12

      Pantanal day 2

      February 15, 2023 in Brazil

      Second day starts with a morning walk at 5.30 am to see the sunrise... and look for the sunglasses lost yesterday 💁‍♂️😎

      Afternoon canoeing down the Rio Claro, beautiful wiews and nature. Alligators and otters as trip companions 😄

      Highlight: the armadillo couple 😍. One very sociable the other one more shy.

      Personal reminder: Add pics from IPhone
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    • Day 335

      Porto Velho & nach Cuiaba

      October 18, 2019 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

      Es war von Anfang an geplant, diese Stadt nur als Zwischenstation zu nehmen. Hatte dennoch gehofft ein paar Tage bleiben zu können. Leider hatte mein Hostel miserables WLAN und das Zimmer lag außerhalb des Hauptgebäudes. Mit einem Welldach und einem Ventilator, fertig ist der Backofen mit Umluft. 😅😅
      Was hier im Allgemeinen gemacht wird, ist jeden Morgen die Fläche/Gehsteig vor dem Haus mit Wasser abspülen. Das Bild ist vom Bus Terminal, aber die machen das überall.
      Naja dann blieb es doch nur eine Zwischenstation.
      Dafür hatte ich einen günstigen Bus nehmen können und war total begeistert wie luxuriös dieser auch noch war. Richtig angenehme Fahrt, sogar mit Kopf wärmer für die mit weniger behaarten. 😂
      Ich fand die Idee bei unserem Nachbarbus toll. Einfach auf Fenster, Fenster als Muster aufkleben. Da muss man erst mal drauf kommen..😎😎
      Er fuhr morgens um 8:00 Los und dadurch konnte man ganz toll sich die Gegend anschauen. Es war jedoch wie mein Freund Willi mir vor einem halben Jahr schon berichtet hatte. Riesige Flächen abgeholzten Regenwaldes. Für Rinder Zucht und Ackerbau wurde hier massig abgeholzt und abgebrannt. Ich mein es sind nur kurze Einblicke, die ich euch hier zeigen kann. Jedoch bin ich 24 Stunden lang an diesen Flächen vorbeigefahren. Ist schon schade, 😔 jedoch konnte ich keine der frisch abgebrannten Wälder sehen. Es war glaub schon die Region, muss wohl weiter drin sein.
      Am Schluss bin ich Sieges sicher eine Station zu früh ausgestiegen und merke es erst als ich mich nach dem weiterfahrenden Bus erkundete. Gut das mein Bus eine kleine Pause hatte. So konnte ich doch nochmals aufspringen. 😰😰 war doch noch 1 Stunde weiter fahren.
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    • Day 7

      Auf dem Rio

      September 8, 2016 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

      Auf unseren 2 Bootstouren fahren wir sehr idyllisch auf den Flüssen Rio Mutum und Ciubará, See und Kanal, hier könnt ihr das sehen: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiUv8teodO-rn2JAbF6xb1vkD2uT und entdecken viele Tiere. Hauptsächlich Vögel wie Marmorreiher, Rotbrustfischer, Schwanenhalsvogel, Kormoran, Rabengeier, Fischbussard und als Highlight den großen Tukan. Das ist der mit dem riesigen großen gelben Schnabel. Er wird auch als Clown des Urwalds bezeichnet. Wir sehen etliche Tiere, die nicht fliegen können: Otter, Kaimane in allen Größen, Brüllaffen (die größte Affernart hier), schwarze Seidenschwanzäffchen oder so ähnlich 😁 und die niedlichen kleinen Kapuzineräffchen - zu sehen hier: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiUv8teodO-rn2FU7hY6C8-l9vEK (Herr Nilson) und viele Wasserschweine mit und ohne Babys. Sie heißen Capivara, gehören zu den Meerschweinchen und sind die größten Nagetiere der Welt. Wenn ihr hier klickt, könnt ihr sie sehen: https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiUv8teodO-rn1-pODJgSrVRyhIu und https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiUv8teodO-rn15Oou-__31M-igD.!Read more

    • Day 20

      Days 20 & 21: the Pantanal

      September 2, 2018 in Brazil

      Although we have a 6 o'clock start, the hotel staff kindly lay on breakfast for us. "Go to work on Brazilian coffee" was never more appropriate. And cakes, and pastries, and scrambled eggs. Our driver takes us southwards and the tarmac rapidly fades to a road of characteristic reddish earth. The heat has temporarily left us, with a misty rain and chilly breeze which perhaps is blowing down from the Andes.

      The Pantanal is an extraordinary wetland, mostly in Mato Grosso state but some of it spills over into Bolivia and Paraguay. It becomes almost a lake up to the end of March but in early September the swamps have drained and it becomes a dryland. This is the best time of year to see the wildlife, and better than Amazonia as well because there is less vegetation. The National Park covers about 1,350 sq. km. (520 sq. mi.) but is threatened by cattle ranching, commercial fishing, poaching and road kill among other things. We are glad to get there while there is still time.

      At the Pousada Rio Claro we pick up a boat for our first taste of river life. And taste there is, for the jacare (a.k.a. caiman or alligator) snapping up a dead piranha which our boatman dangles out from the gunwale. Jacares are believed to number 10 million, which makes them as populous here as humans are in Rio de Janeiro. Other abundant creatures include the jabiru stork whose distinctive red collar makes it the official emblem of the Pantanal, and the capybara, famously the world's largest rodent about the size of pigs. Unlike the jabiru but like pigs, they don't fly.

      It's worth noting that I am not the first member of my family to pass this way. My great-uncle Cyril was once in the Mato Grosso, gathering butterflies for a private collector. This practice would be frowned on now but back in 1927 it provided him with a living and much interest. At the time, the great news topic was Colonel Fawcett whose expedition had vanished just 2 years before and people clung to the hope that he would be found.

      No trace of Fawcett but we have had a satisfying day.

      The following day is a rest day which we use going to the rodoviaria for tickets for our return journey in 2 days time. As we walk there, a couple of women warn us that this is a dodgy area and kindly give us a lift there and back. We celebrate a safe return with a kilo lunch and ice creams at the Italianissima. We also get our photos taken; my Brazil-coloured shirt actually represents the SPBW (Society for Preservation of Beers from the Wood) and a suspicious bulge underneath which is my shoulder pouch (in some quarters called a "bra"). Is that a passport inside or am I just pleased to see them?

      In the evening we find that piranha is a diet not just for jacares but for people, apparently with the added bonus that it's an aphrodisiac.

      Chaste thoughts however await us back at the hotel, where the manageress encourages us "dorme com Deus" (sleep with God).
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    • Day 7

      Im Pantanal

      August 17, 2019 in Brazil ⋅ ☀️ 37 °C

      Nach dem Frühstück starten wir zu einem Ausflug mit "Traudl", einer etwas burschikosen Rangerin, die ein sehr umfangreiches Wissen über den Urwald und dessen Bewohner hat.

      Unterwegs sind wir auf einem Traktoranhänger, da wir immer wieder durch knietiefes Wasser fahren. Eine Vielzahl von Vögeln gibt es hier zu beobachten, natürlich auch wieder Hyazinth-Aras, aber auch wieder Kaimane aus nächster Nähe.

      Am Nachmittag machten wir uns zu Fuss mit Traudl auf den Weg. Leguane, Warane, Wildschweine, Strausse, Kapuzineräffchen .... und eine Menge unterschiedlicher Vögel kreuzten unseren Weg. Traudl (sie ist gebürtige Deutsche und lebt schon sehr lange in Brasilien) hat ein faszinierendes Wissen auch im Bereich Naturheilpflanzen. Ein spannender, wenn auch sehr heißer Spaziergang durch einen Teil des Tales, der auch normalerweise unter Wasser steht.
      Am Abend ging es früh zu Bett, da wir am nächsten Morgen zum Sonnenaufgang früh aufstehen mussten.
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    • Day 22

      Days 22 & 23: the Pantanal

      September 4, 2018 in Brazil

      I normally hate getting up early but this is a must. Our guide for the day, Domingas, is waiting at 4 a.m. in her 4 x 4 and we set off on the same round south as on Sunday. This time it's a 3 1/2 hour drive, easily passing Rio Claro and finishing at Porto Jofre, with the essential inky black coffee as the morning fix.

      This wetland is not Amazonia but part of the Parana system, which ultimately drains into the River Plate at Buenos Aires. But the land of tango feels very distant as we cruise these swampy rivers. We spot families of capybara hooting nervously to warn of the jacares which patrol these waters, only their eyes showing above their surface.

      But the king of the predators awaits in the bushes. After an hour of searching. Domingas locates a spot where jaguars are likely to roam ans sure enough, we see one lurking on the river bank. It's a thrilling sight. I'm not sure who is the more cautious, ourselves in the canoe or the big feline; anyway after 10 minutes, it jumps into the water and we follow its course as it swims briskly. The jaguar finally halts at a clump of bushes and emerges with a jacare, lying face upwards and very dead. It seems that the crocodilian has been killed earlier and none of the other local creatures has dared to deny the jaguar of its prey. Domingas, having been the first to spot this, helpfully calls over two other boat parties to witness the scene. Meanwhile the jaguar tries to haul the jacare up the bank from the water's edge but it's too much for him alone and he starts to lunch on it, before perhaps getting help from his mate. It's an unforgettable sight. The thought that anybody would want to poach them for body parts or any other reason is appalling.

      Nothing much can top this but the drive back to Pocone is enjoyable as the sun sets, leaving increasingly lengthy shadows. The termite mounds rise like hillocks amongst the browsing white cattle. Domingas (pictured above) has been an excellent guide---she has, after all, had to stay focused from 4 a.m. to 7 p.m.---and I wish her every success.

      After a final breakfast in Pocone, we board the bus back to Cuiaba. This is sadly where Doree and I are to go separate ways but I am grateful for our very enjoyable week. Cuiaba is pleasant enough but as a state capital seems undistinguished. The cracks in the pavements are more like chasms and could easily cause an accident to the unwary; there is a general shabbiness about the buildings that I wouldn't expect to find in a Spanish-speaking city of the same size (about a million). Oh well, the little restaurant across from my hotel does a bargain prato executivo (business person's dish) for about US$3 and beers at US$1 each.
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    • Day 18

      Days 18 & 19: C de G and Pocone

      August 31, 2018 in Brazil ⋅ 🌬 32 °C

      Another excursion with Guierreiro, who drives us to a different part of the national park, along a rough track to some scenic views over the landscape. Later he takes us to a waterfall which despite it being the dry season, is still in flow. It's called the Vea da Novia (bridal veil) which while not a unique name in South America, is appropriate.

      Looking ahead to the Pantanal where we are destined next, we find that the jungle lodge which had been recommended to us cost US$300 a night and was full anyway so we make other plans. The following day we take a bus to the state capital of Cuiaba and connect to the bus to Pocone, a 2 hour journey on which curiously, although my ticket is booked for seat number 4, there is no such place on the bus. Luckily the bus is far from full!

      Pocone (accent on the e, hence poc-on-AY) is a small town about the size of C de G and while not yet in the Pantanal, is the northern gateway to it. We've been told that there is a tourist office and tour guide service just opposite the rodoviaria but when we pull in, there is no sign of them or indeed of anything much. Just lots of heat and an unshaven man in a battered car who offers trips to the Pantanal, but we have no idea of his reliability and so give him a miss. I feel like the Sundance Kid when he and Butch Cassidy turn up at a godforsaken railway halt in the back country of Bolivia.

      We check into a friendly motel-style guest house south of the town centre. They don't arrange tours themselves but gives us some phone numbers and Doree negotiates two day trips in her fluent Portuguese. Let the Pantanal begin!
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    • Day 177

      Abismo

      May 23, 2016 in Brazil ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      Yet again its another early start, yesterday we had a chill out day apart from the training we had to do for todays activity. This involved abseiling and rappeling which id never done before, and trust me it was harder than it looked. With our training in the bag we made our way to Abismo, we had to be one of the first people here as they take two groups down seperately and to ensure we could catch our bus we needed to leave site at 11. The stress of catching this bus was really getting to me, everything really had to drop into place and there was little margin for error.
      We were all equipped out in our safety harnesses and helmets before being attached to the line that would take us down. Mark and i would go down ttogether and once we were sat in the shaft it was time to descend with our legs entwined we slowly lowered ourselves into the abyss . I think they must have slowed the rope up in someway , as from our practice that we had yesterday trying to take the friction off was a lot harder. Slowly we dropped down into something i had never imagined i would ever see. It was like being in Middle earth stalignites and stalitites were everywhere . I dont know whyi was shocked tat the gave was so dark as the only source of light was a small whole that we had been lowered through, it was also still early , but it really was like finding an alladins cave. The journey down was quite hard work and by the time i reached the bottom i was exhausted . We waited for the rest of our group to descend and everyone was of the same thouht that if it was that hard aseiling down, how hard was it going to be Rappelling back up. The cave is 70m below ground but was much bigger that i imagined and i couldnt believe what a force water and calcium can have. Once we were all together our guide Mateus took us in a little dinghy and showed us the various formations around the cave , it was jaw dropping stuff at how different even the textures of the limestone were. In the water below us were even more formations and we headed back to a wooden floating platform to don our wetsuits and investigate further.The water was so cold when we got in but after a while your body adjusted . There was something quite eerie about this place and as we snorkelled around it was like having a mirror reflection under the water. After a short while i got out and got dressed as time was pushing on Mark followed shortly after and once dressed we were put back into our harnesses. This place should definitely be attached with a wonder of the world certification its beauty is breathtaking. It was time to make our accent and once strapped in i was nervous about the task ahead, i was winched to about half way up which i wasnt expecting and then hanging in mid air i tryed to do the technique that wed learnt yesterday but for some reason it wasnt working , i was petrified , here i was dangling on a rope trying to shout down that my clamp wasnt working and noone could hear me. After what seemed like forever , but was probably 3 or 4 mins i was winched up again, to just below the entrance, it looked like i wasnt going to have to rappel after all which i was pretty glad of as my arms were still hurting from last night and my legs were shaky being at such a great heigt, with my hands either side of the rock i was hauled slowly through the final part.Back on level land i was shocked to see that it was actually the guys and girls on top that had physically hauled me up, and now it was Marks turn, i did feel sorry for them in that heat its bloody hard work pulling 14st up 70 metres. Mark joined me and after a big thank you we ran to catch our taxi . Back at the hostel our bags were already packed and id bught sandwiches the night before so after a quick bite to eat we sat waiting for the bus that was due at 1230. It was supposed to be a three and a half hour journey to the airport then a further 30 mins to downtaown then a taxi from there to the terminal was abouut 20 mins but at 1245 the bus hadnt arrived . It eventually turned up at 13.10 so we were going to be cutting it really fine. We arrived at the airport at 530 and had accepted we wouldnt be catching the bus tonight, but when we got in the taxi we explained the situation and he drove ike a lunatic, going through red lights down little short cuts and just 5 mins from the terminal there had been a crash. It was 550 as we sat in the traffic i was devistated we were so close yet s far away, hen nigel mansell started weavin his way in and out and we cleared the crash. the time was .6.01 and i ran to the ticket office while mark grabbed the rucksacks. The bus hadnt arrived yet, and must have been caught in the same traffic as us. I was so happy , but when i came to pay for the tickets it wouldnt accept my card, rucksack on my back i ran to the cashpoint and withdrew the cash just as the bus was pulling in , i quickly ran back and paid and we boarded the bus
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Mato Grosso, MT, ماتو غروسو, Штат Мату-Гросу, Мато Гросо, মাটো গ্রসো, Mato-Groso, Mato Grosso osariik, ماتو گروسو, Mato Groso, מאטו גרוסו, मातो ग्रोसो, マットグロッソ州, მატუ-გროსუ, Мату-Гроссу, 마투그로수 주, Matogrossensis, Mato Grosas, Matugrosu, Мато Грошо, Mato Gròss, Mato Grosso suyu, Мату-Гросу, மடோ குரோசோ, Мату Гросу, รัฐมาตูโกรสซู, Matu-Grosu, 马托格罗索州

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