Middle Beach

Tofino is a small charming little town, comprising of multi coloured buildings, once reliant on fishing and logging for employment. It is isolated due to its geographical position and has the laid back vibe associated with water, sports and sand. The fishing and logging have gradually dwindled allowing tourism to creep in and take over. There appear to be plenty of the usual surfing and arty types and some of sights to be seen down the Main Street have to be seen to be believed, but then what is new. We found a wonderful local bakery where everything is baked on the premises and they do a mean cooked breakfast, always the way to most Englishmen’s heart - well mine anyway. Middle Beach Lodge where we are staying is in a beautiful setting amongst the rainforest and on the beach, but has several drawbacks, continental breakfast being one of them from a certain persons point of view!
Today we decided to explore some of the trails along the Pacific Rim Highway bordering the ocean. We began with Radar Hill, a beautiful viewpoint with one of the Pacific Rim National Parks highest elevations. Having dragged yourself up there (it is quite steep) you are confronted by a spectacular view. This was originally home to a historic radar station during WW2 and now features the Kap’Yong memorial to the Canadian 2nd Battalion who served heroically and died during the Korean War.
We moved on to stop briefly at the incinerator rock viewpoint along Long Beach. The beach was busy with families and surfers. Canadian schools have now broken for the summer, so it’s bucket and spade time.
Our next stop was Combers Beach Trail, where you follow a wide path through the Sitka spruce forest before arriving at the most beautiful natural beach. Quiet, lots of driftwood ( be still my beating heart) and the Pacific breaking on to the silver sand. The forest comes right down to the beach and it is a fabulous sight.
I had planned to walk the Bog Forest boardwalk and we did set off. However we met a couple hotfooting it back with the news that a black bear was lurking in the undergrowth half way round. Ummm, now what? We turned tail and hurried back, not particularly wanting to get on his wrong side. I know, pathetic windy Brits, but we took the safety first option.
Finally, we took the boardwalk through the rainforest trail. The boardwalk itself is a work of art and I wouldn’t like to think how long it took to construct. It weaves up and down through beautiful moss covered trees, tiny streams, ferns, skunk cabbage, plus lots of foliages I couldn’t name. A small piece of very rare temperate rainforest that ranges throughout the Park, that is now carefully conserved after a huge battle between the loggers and environmentalists. Luckily the right side won in this case. The sun shone through the canopy to illuminate the forest floor and the trailing mosses and lichens that drip off every branch; it is magical.
I’m tapping away to you watching the ocean from the Lodge common area. We move on tomorrow to Vancouver. It will be another long drive and I may well not get to you until the day after.Read more