Chile
Cisnes

Here you’ll find travel reports about Cisnes. Discover travel destinations in Chile of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

24 travelers at this place:

  • Day16

    Puyuhapi - einfach und schön

    December 15 in Chile

    So steht es zumindest im Reiseführer. Die schöne Seite erschließt sich mir noch nicht so richtig. 1935 von vier Sudetendeutschen gegründet, nur mit dem Schiff erreichbar und im Urwald gelegen.
    Die ersten 200 km auf der Carretera austral waren jedenfalls ziemlich entspannt. Eigentlich auch noch kein Grund hier schon zu übernachten. Aber nach 27 Std steige ich gerne Mal aus den Motorradklamotten. Nach dem auschecken gestern und einer gemütlichen Fahrt zum Osorno, die Nacht auf der Fähre ohne umzieh-Gelegenheit und die Fahrt hierher freue ich mich auf das gut geheizte Hostel. Die letzten 30 km Schotter im kalten Dauerregen, der auch jetzt noch kein Ende nimmt, haben mir die Entscheidung leicht gemacht.
    Wieder hält sich das Wetter nicht an den Wetterbericht! 🤔
    Trotzdem ist die Fahrt hierher durch Landschaften wie in Neuseeland sehr lohnend und war ein Genuss. Vielleicht sehe ich morgen ja auch den oberen Teil der umliegenden Berge.
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  • Day15

    Die Carretera austral ist die Traumstraße Südchiles.
    Sie heißt auch 'El Camino Austral', 'Camino Longitudinal Austral' oder nur Ruta 7 . Sie beginnt in Puerto Montt, wo die Panamericana endet, die ganz Chile durchzieht. Im Süden endet die Ruta 7 bei Villa O'Higgins als Sackgasse. Einem Weiterbau steht das Campo de Hielo Sur im Weg, das größte Eisfeld ausserhalb der Polarregion. Für Bergsteiger: hier steht dann der Fitz Roy.
    Die Carretera war ein Projekt Pinochet's, der sie ab 1976 bauen ließ. Davor waren Orte wie die deutsche Gründung Puyuhuapi nur mit dem Schiff erreichbar.
    Sie gilt als das aufwendigste Projekt Chiles. Die 1350 km lange Strecke zieht sich durch dichte Regenwälder (was ich zu spüren bekomme), vorbei an Fjorden, Gletschern, Flüssen und zwischen Gebirgszügen mit vielen aktiven Vulkanen.
    Noch immer ist nur ein Teil der Strecke asphaltiert. Genau vor einem Jahr verwüstete eine riesige Schlammlawine bei Villa Santa Lucia die Strecke über eine Länge von 4 km, hinterließ riesige zerstörte Flächen und verwüstete einen Teil des Ortes, wobei es mehrere Tote gab. Über 2 Monate war die Ruta gesperrt. Auch heute wird einem beim befahren dieses Teils das Ausmaß der Naturgewalten bewusst.
    Die Carretera austral hat noch immer eine hohe Anziehungskraft auch für viele Radfahrer. Trotzdem hat man die Straße die meiste Zeit für sich allein.
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  • Day59

    Hildegard aus Puyuhuapi

    February 28 in Chile

    Trotz aller Bemühungen: Puyuhuapi mit seinen 525 Einwohnern wird kein touristischer Hotspot werden. Vielleicht liegt das daran, dass die Touristeninfo im Moment (oder für immer?) unbesetzt ist. Wahrscheinlicher ist jedoch, dass der Dauernebel außer ein paar traurigen Backpackern, die hier gestrandet sind, und einigen wenigen Motorradfahrern (eigentlich nur uns) niemanden zum Bleiben einlädt.

    Dabei ist Puyuhuapi fest in deutscher Hand. Hildegard betreibt die Hosteria Alemana in zweiter Generation. Ihre Brüder Helmut und Fritz wohnen um die Ecke, die Mutter ist 80 und schwerhörig, der Vater bereits tot. 1945 seien sie und einige weitere Familien aus dem Sudetenland hierher ausgewandert. Eine kleine Teppichfabrikation hielt die Familie über Wasser, vor 30 Jahren dann teilte man vom großen Wohnhaus ein Stück ab und begann, Zimmer an Gäste zu vermieten. Das Haus atmet diesen Charme früherer Zeiten, könnte allerdings in technischer Hinsicht ein wenig Fortschritt vertragen. Das Zeitfenster für warmes Wasser unter der Dusche ist knapp bemessen. Auch der Gasofen ist nicht leicht in Gang zu bringen.

    Etwas Wärme schadet nämlich nicht, denn wir sind mittlerweile wieder in Chile, und was in Puyuhuapi zunächst aussieht wie ein See, entpuppt sich als Fjord (mit Schildern, die den Fluchtweg im Falle eines Tsunamis anzeigen). Eine Fahrstrecke von 250 km liegt hinter uns, davon etwa die Hälfte auf Schotter. Denn wir folgen nun der (berühmten?) Carretera Austral, Ruta 7, einem Nord-Süd-Straßenprojekt, das unter Pinochet in den 70ern begonnen wurde. Der Süden Chiles war zu diesem Zeitpunkt kaum erschlossen und nur zu Wasser oder Luft erreichtbar. Ein Ende der Bauarbeiten ist nicht in Sicht, weitere Abschnitte sollen in den nächsten 25-30 Jahren entstehen. Dann soll auch vieles asphaltiert sein. Aber bis dahin bleibt die Carretera Austral ein großer Enduro-Spielplatz.

    http://lateinamerikareisen.info/teppichfabrik-puyuhuapi-chile-deutsche-wertarbeit-an-einem-unscheinbaren-ort-im-sueden-chiles/
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  • Day62

    Da wir heute wieder eine längere Fahrt vor uns hatten sind wir früh aufgebrochen. Erst nachmittags sind wir in Puyuhuapi angekommen und haben vor dem Bezug des neuen Campingplatzes eine kurze Wanderung zu einem Aussichtspunkt eines Gletschers gemacht. Das tat wirklich gut nach dem langen Sitzen.

    Als wir uns dann gegen acht Uhr im Camp eingerichtet hattet, hat das Essen daher umso besser geschmeckt.
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  • Day104

    Getting back to Puyuhuapi

    January 11 in Chile

    After the interpretative trail, we went to the short trails with the viewpoints of the glacier. From one of them, we could clearly see the U shaped valleys formed due to the movement of the glacier, all the way to it current location.
    Back at the parking, our van driver was of course not there. We decided to try and hitch hike our way back to Puyuhuapi. We tried stopping a few vehicles while walking out of the national park but weren't lucky. After about 3 kms walk, we reached the main road between Coyhaique and Puyuhuapi. We stopped here and waited for a ride. There was a girl from Israel traveling alone in South America from South to North. She to came and sat with us waiting for a ride to Puyuhuapi. We had to wait almost 30-40 min but still didn't get lucky. The Israeli girl went to the park ranger office to see if there was any option. She was told that one of workers was going to Puyuhuapi in 10-15 min and that he had a pickup van so we could all go. In the meantime, we continued trying to flag down vehicles we could take. A small truck stopped and agreed to take one of us to Puyuhuapi. We offered the Israeli girl to go for it while we continued waiting. In about 5 min, the pickup from the national park came and we all got a place to sit in it. We got a ride all the way to the ferry crossing, then across it and then to the village with the same guy. We reached back around 7 pm and paid him 4000 CLP as a tip.Read more

  • Day104

    Interpretative trail

    January 11 in Chile

    Back from the lake, we wanted to avoid going via the parking so that we don't meet our van driver. It was already 3:10 pm and we still had 2 small trails ledt to do. After paying so much as the entry fee for the national park, we didn't want to miss tjem just because the driver wants to get an early off.
    Unfortunately, we came out straight in the parking and the driver saw us. We tried to ignore his calls and continued walking towards the trail no. 3. He continued calling after us and then when we didn't respond, ran after us. He caught up with us when we were already a few meters in the trail. He told us to come so we could leave. We told him clearly that, that had not been the arrangement. We had wanted to do all the trails and had even confirmed that we would start back around 5 pm. The lady at the informacion center had said so, the lady organizing the drop and pickup too had said the same and even the owner lady had confirmed. So, the message was clear, we would not be leaving till we are done. He threatened that he would leave us and go now. To which we told him that he could go if he wanted, we didn't care. He started back in a huff and then suddenly remembered that we had not paid for the trip so he came back again after us and told us to pay 2000 CLP per person for the drop off. We told him that we were not going to pay anything since the agreement was a drop off and pickup and if he broke that agreement, then we were not obliged to pay anything. He threatened that he would report us to the police and they would catch us when we returned. We told him to do whatever and that we would continue with our treks. He left after that and we continued with our walk.
    The track was an interpretative trail with boards marking the interesting geological points. There were a lot of geological remnants of the glacier receding over many thousand years and they had made it quite interesting with a lot of information. We had to pass through very narrow gaps between rocks and below fallen rocks forming a tunnel.
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  • Day105

    Off from Puyuhuapi

    January 12 in Chile

    Getting off after our ride from the Queulat National Park, we found a nice restaurant Senderos Puyuhuapi where we had our dinner. The food was so good that we returned here the next day to have our brunch as well. We were lucky as we happened to be the last customers before they closed for a few days to go to the countryside.
    Before that, on the previous evening, we had still not heard back from the fisherman to take us to the hot springs and when we checked the weather, it showed rain almost the whole day plus we had driven along the fjord 2 times on the day before. So, we decided to skip the hot springs and instead go to Coyhaique. We went to get our tickets at the supermercado but were told that all the places in the 7 am bus were taken and that we could take it on the next day. We decided to hitch hike instead 😎
    The fisherman guy called Hristo's number late in the night around 12 am but having decided to move on from Puyuhuapi, he ignored the call.
    Not having any paln in particular, we woke up late, got ready, checked out and carried our bags to Senderos Puyuhuapi to have our brunch, it was almost 1:30 pm. We decided to try and hitch hike all the way to Coyhaique. The plan was to split up in whatever capacity we could and meet at the central plaza of Coyhaique. We were still in Chile and both Hristo and I had local SIM cards so we could sync up, just that I was using Claro which didn't have a good coverage in this area while Hristo was using Entel and had connection everywhere. The hope was that I too would get a connection in Coyhaique so we will be able to meetup. We walked 2.5 kms to the Southern exit of the village and waited there for someone to pick us up. After a while, a pickup came from the village and agreed to take 2 of us to the ferry crossing nearby where they were working in clearing the road. Melinda and I went with them. Just behind us, Hristo and Maria too got a lift till the ferry where the jeep in which they were travelling would stop a short distance on the other side of the ferry port.
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  • Day105

    2nd hitch ride of the day

    January 12 in Chile

    The workers that took us to the ferry, were able to cross over the que of vehicles all the way to the front since they had priority and dropped us at the ferry. Then they drove on along the road towards the clearance area. The ferry was about to leave and knowing that Hristo and Maria were coming with normal citizens we guessed they wouldn't be able to make it to the front of the que and would come via some subsequent ferry, Melinda and I went in with our bags. Within a few seconds, the ferry left the port. We went around in the ferry asking if any of the vehicles could give us a ride till Coyhaique. An old couple agreed to take us but they didn't have a place inside on the back seats so they offered us places in the back of the pickup. I was fine with that but Melinda was having a cold and wanted to ride inside the cabin since the distance too was 200 kms and it was raining on and off. We asked around with the other vehicles and finally found a geologist traveling alone. He had place for the 2 of us in his pickup but he was going only about 60 kms to Puerto Cisnes. We decided to go with him. The journey was very scenic with lovely views of the fjords and the hills around.Read more

  • Day103

    To Puyuhuapi

    January 10 in Chile

    Most of the points we had marked to see on the way to Coyhaique were near Puyuhuapi, just South of the town, so we had bought the tickets till Puyuhuapi only. The hope was to find some tours or taxis who could take us to these places from Puyuhuapi. Another thing that had been encouraging was the fact that we had been told that there were quite many buses from Puyuhuapi to Coyhaique. This would be much better than the twice a week connection between Futaleufu to Coyhaique on which we were travelling now. This was also perfect in that my tickets from Coyhaique to Santiago to collect my passport was for the 15th Jan, giving us time on the way to do the planned activities.
    The route was very scenic with snow covered peaks in the distance and the beautiful blue river and lakes along the road.
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  • Day103

    Puyuhuapi

    January 10 in Chile

    We reached Puyuhuapi at around 4 pm. Tge bus dropped us just near the village center. Maria and Hristo waited with our bags while Melinda and I went around the town trying to find a place to stay and information regarding the tours etc.
    Our first stop was at the tourist information center. There we got some good information regarding the tours and things to do nearby. We also got some tips regarding the places to stay etc. We went around the village qnd saw some 15-20 places of stay. Eventually, we decided to rent a cabaña for 4 people right on the road coming into the village about 200 mts from the tourist information center and about the same distance from the bus stops. The cost of 40000 CLP for the 4 of us per night was a good price too.
    After settling down, we went to book a drop and pickup for the Queulat glacier for the next day. At the tourist information office, we had found that there was a person working at the Queulat Glacier National Park and that he picks up people at takes them there when he goes to work in the morning at 8 am and then returns at 5:30 pm after work. He charges 5000 CLP per person and has limited seats of about 9 people. We went there and found the place closed. We had just written a note with our phone number when the wife of the person came. She knew English so it was easy to communicate with her. She told us that the were no places with them for the next day but she told us she could ask a neighbor if they could drop us. After a quick discussion with the neighbor where she did all the talking for us, it was agreed that they will drop us the next day. The pickup would be at 8 am and the return would be at 5 pm and the charge would be the same 5000 CLP per person. There would be a few other people with us in the van. We specifically asked that if we wanted to do all the treks in the park and some who didn't want to do all what would they do, to which we were told that they would wait in the van for everyone to come back.
    Having arranged one whole day's excursion, we went to the fisherman who takes boat trips to got springs and into the fjords for a total of 50000 CLP for 7 people. This too had been told to us at the tourist office. When we reached the marked house, there was no one there. There was a phone number displayed on a board outside. We called and after a few tries were able to get through to the fishermen's wife. She told that the guy was away and that he would be available later. She confirmed the price of 50000 CLP for the boat and said that for the day after, it was just the 4 of us for now. We gave her our number and asked her to call back to confirm our place when the guy was back.
    Having done whatever bookings we could do now, we started our walk towards the viewpoint of the village on a hill nearby.
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Cisnes

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