Chile
Provincia de Coyhaique

Here you’ll find travel reports about Provincia de Coyhaique. Discover travel destinations in Chile of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

35 travelers at this place:

  • Day17

    Fin de Asfalto

    December 16, 2018 in Chile ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Heute morgen regnet es in Strömen, also lass ich mir Zeit. In der Küche hat man mir ein gutes Frühstück vorbereitet, dann stell ich das Motorrad erst mal unter Dach, damit ich trocken packen kann. Dann sicherheitshalber noch zur Tankstelle und auffüllen. Das sollte eigentlich bis Argentinien reichen, knapp 600 km reicht mein Fass.
    Hinter Puyuhuapi ist dann fin de asfalto. Die nächsten 50 km sind noch die alte austral auf Schotter, engen Spitzkehren mit Badewannen und immer zwischen dichten grünen Wäldern. Auch bei Regen macht das Spaß. Viel zu früh endet der Schotter, dafür lässt sich tatsächlich die Sonne blicken. Auf guten Straßen geht's jetzt gemütlich durch schöne Landschaften, auch die umliegenden Berge verstecken sich nicht mehr.
    Vor Coyhaique werde ich nochmal nass, fahre zielstrebig ein Hostel an und suche mir ein gemütliches Cafe mit Erdbeerkuchen. So kann's weiter gehen.
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  • Day73

    Coyhaique

    January 7 in Chile ⋅ 🌧 10 °C

    This is an incredibly remote town but it didn't feel that remote once we were there, with a number of shops bars and restaurants lining the streets. The price of accommodation was certainly high though, so we had to try a few to find a reasonable option. This resulted in us staying in a school classroom, that has been converted into a hostel over the summer. Our most unusual accommodation yet.

    The constant rain put pay to the idea of checking out the national park nearby and we settled for what any sensible English people would do, and spent the day in the pub.

    We'd found a brewery on the outskirts of town, so this was our evening pub. It was a cosy log cabin with a roaring fire and we didn't want to leave and return to the rain but the midnight curfew at the school meant we had no choice! This was not before I found a new hero, a guy sat at the bar with a baby monitor on his phone.
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  • Day60

    Generation Y auf Reisen

    March 1, 2018 in Chile ⋅

    Sie machen es sich hinten auf dem Toyota Pickup bequem. Aus Hannover und aus Graz seien sie. Schon ziemlich lange unterwegs, vielleicht ein Jahr. Wie lange sie noch reisen wollten? Das könnten sie noch nicht sagen. Nach dem Studium hätten sie zwei Jahre gearbeitet, nein, nicht in einem Start-Up, was Soziales. Aber jetzt erst einmal Pause. Im Moment sei das Hitchhiken schwieriger, da sie aufgrund der chilenischen Sommerferien derzeit mit den Einheimischen konkurrierten. Aber irgendwie würde es immer weiter gehen ... Generation Y auf Reisen.

    Die Backpacker und die Rentner (inklusive einiger halbwegs rüstiger Motorradfahrer) haben Südamerika touristisch unter sich aufgeteilt. Üblicherweise bleibt man dabei streng unter sich. Denn die einen zieht es in die Hostels, die anderen in die Hotels. Die einen fahren Bus oder Trampen, die anderen Mietautos oder Enduro. Lediglich auf der Straße und beim Essen gibt es Berührungspunkte, aber die Annäherung erfolgt eher einseitig und nur von alt nach jung. Was sollte Generation Y auch mit den graubärtigen Babyboomern zu besprechen haben?

    Auf Bild 2 seht Ihr, warum die Carretera Austral immer wieder gesperrt ist. Denn wenn die Schotterstraße über viele Kilometer zwischen Berg und Wasser eingequetscht ist, dann ist die Wahrscheinlichkeit ziemlich groß, dass ab und zu ein Erdrutsch ein Weiterkommen unmöglich macht. Fotografisch leider nicht festgehalten, aber dennoch wahr: Wir sehen an vielen Stellen die Spuren früherer "landslides".

    Während wir uns alle mittlerweile recht gut mit Schotterpisten arrangiert haben, liegt in einer Kurve ein mit seiner Suzuki gestürzter Amerikaner. Aus Boston, circa Ende 60. Er ist unter seinem Bike eingeklemmt, hat sich aber nicht wirklich etwas getan. Domenicos Frage, ob er Hilfe benötige, entbehrt nicht ein gewissen Komik. Seine Brille ist ihm von der Nase gerutscht und hat nur noch einen Bügel, der Drehverschluß zum Motoröl fehlt, wie überhaupt das gesamte Motoröl. Fahrzeug und Fahrer geben insgesamt ein bemitleidenswertes Bild ab. Nichtsdestotrotz: Nachdem wir ihn und das Bike wieder aufgerichtet haben, bleibt er amerikanisch entspannt. Das fehlende Windshield hätte er bereits bei einem früheren Sturz verloren. Nein, weitere Hilfe benötige er nicht, er hätte noch irgendwo Motoröl und käme auch sonst gut klar. Er wäre nur die Kurve etwas "zu konservativ" angegangen und hätte vielleicht die falschen Reifen. Und außerdem hätte die Carretera Austral auf YouTube irgendwie einfacher ausgesehen. Tatsächlich sehen wir ihn 100 km weiter am Nachmittag wieder. Ein echtes Stehaufmännchen!

    Irgendwann kommen wir doch wieder auf wunderbaren, fast neuen Asphalt, was vorteilhaft ist, weil man sich dann nicht nur auf das Fahren konzentrieren muss, sondern auch die herrlichen Landschaftsbilder genießen kann - mit bereits vielen vergletscherten Berggipfeln. Ein erster Vorgeschmack, denn die Berühmten liegen noch vor uns. Ich hoffe, Ihr erfreut Euch an den Bildern - ich melde mich morgen wieder, dann ist Ruhetag in Coyhayque.
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  • Day61

    No!

    March 2, 2018 in Chile ⋅

    Mit Werbung die Welt verändern ... manchmal funktioniert es. Auf Domenicos Empfehlung hin habe ich mir gerade den Trailer von "No!" auf YouTube angesehen, und der ist vielversprechend. Es geht um den Volksentscheid in Chile 1988, der das Land von Pinochets Militärdiktatur befreite.

    https://youtu.be/eb5E2_N1dWE

    P.S.: Heute Ruhetag ...
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  • Day106

    A nice evening at Edith's place

    January 13, 2018 in Chile ⋅

    After dinner, we went back to Hristo and Maria's hostel to see if we too could move there once I was back from Santiago. There, the people staying in the house had all gathered in the living room for a round of drinks. We sat and chatted for a while. There were 2 beds available but Melinda didn't want to sleep on a bunk bed due to her claustrophobia, so she decided to continue her stay at our present hostel only while I was to Santiago. We left just before 12 am, just in time before our hostel gates woule be locked. Back at the hostel, Melinda felt that it would be more convenient to stay together at Hristo's and Maria's place so I messaged them to reserve a place for us, but didn't get a reply back till we slept.Read more

  • Day107

    Laguna Venus

    January 14, 2018 in Chile ⋅

    The trail continued through some thick forest. This place is one of the Puma checkpoints as well so we were keeps oir eyes and ears open on case we come across one. After about 45 min more, we reached Laguna Venus. Another nondescript lake. Here, Hristo decided to go back and do the Cerro Cincaho trail while we continued further on the current trail. We both had data on and off so we decided to sync up whenever we get the connection.Read more

  • Day107

    Lost Melinda!!!

    January 14, 2018 in Chile ⋅

    It was starting to get a bit chilly in the shadows so Maria and I sat in the sun waiting for the rest to return. At 6:30 pm, Melinda still hadn't returned so we started getting a bit worried. We didn't know how long she wanted to sit alone at the lake where we had left her but 30 min felt like a good time for her to join us. Around this time, the park ranger's jeep went in to check for vehicles inside since they were were closing at 7 pm. After that one could walk out but the vehicles would not be able to cross the barrier. We decided to wait for the jeep to come back and if Melinda still didn't return, I would take a lift till Laguna Verde on the jeep and try and trace the 4 km path to the entrance from there.
    Just a few minutes before 7 pm, the park ranger came back. I tried to explain to them our situation and that I would need a lift in the jeep till Laguna Verde to find Melinda. Luckily, one of them understood a little English and with a mix of my broken Spanish, we managed to understand each other. At this moment, Hristo came back from his trek. He had not seen Melinda on the way, so basically, from Laguna Verde to the entrance, was eliminated since if Melinda was in that section, he would have seen her.
    We decided that Maria would stay near the park entrance and charge her phone in the office (they were still open for a few more minutes and Maria's phone had run out of power) and send a message to me if Melinda would return. Hristo too had run out of power on his phone as well as on his power bank so he left his phone there. Hristo and I took a lift till Laguna Verde and instead of coming back to the entrance, we decided that I would trek back to the lake Los Mallines where we had last seen Melinda and Hristo, since he had trekked 8 kms extra on a very steep section, would instead drive with the ranger to a road point near the lake and start walking from there. That way we could eliminate another section if we didn't find her.
    We proceeded as per plan and unfortunately met each other in the middle of the trail with still no sign of Melinda. We had continued to call out her name while we were walking but had not heard anything. It was getting quite late, and the sun was a few minutes from setting. Inside the forest, it was already quite dark and with pumas on the prowl, we were getting quite worried now. The park rangers didn't seem to care much though, they had just dropped Hristo and had gone back and left us on our own. We sorted out another section of the trail and decided to split up along 2 parallel trails going further back and wait for each other where they met. That way we would eliminate another section of the trail. In the meantime, at every crossing I had passed, I continued marking arrows towards the entrance, just in case she came there from a different direction, hopefully sje would notice them and know where to go.
    Hristo and I walked towards the place where the trails split. It was just at this moment, I got data for a brief moment and got the message from Maria telling that Melinda had reached the entrance.
    We immediately dropped off our search and looked up the shortest way to the entrance. We were still about 5 kms away so I messaged back that we would take an hour to reach back and then started our long and slow walk back to the entrance. By the time we reached the entrance, it was past 9 pm and the sun had already gone below the horizon. Hristo had already walked about 38 kms and I about 30 kms so we stopped at the entrance for a while to recover a bit and figure out what had happened.
    Eventually, after checking out all the details etc, we figured that Melinda after stopping at the lake for about 10 min started her walk but instead of walking towards the entrance had immediately turned back along the path where we had come from. Then she had reached the junction where Hristo had gone up the hill and thinking that was the route to the park entrance had climbed the hill, then figured something was wrong since she didn't see any of us had turned back ans retraced her steps back to the entrance. This was why Hristo too had not seen her on his way down since she never went to the 2nd half of the trail. After a few minutes, we trudged our way back to Coyhaique, extremely tired but very happy that everyone was fine. It had been a worrying experience and the lessons learnt were for all of us to have an offline copy of the maps and if any of us didn't know how to read the maps then never lose sight of the others. To have our phones and power banks fully charged on the night before the treks. These came in quite handy later in the trip as well.
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  • Day106

    Views around Coyhaique

    January 13, 2018 in Chile ⋅

    After finishing the planning, we decided to go for a walk outside of the town of Coyhaique. There was a route suggested by the lady at the tourist information center where she had said we could have nice views of the hills and the Rio Simpson. Maria was a bit tired so Hristo walked her back to the hostel while Melinda and I walked along the trail suggested.
    The route goes the Western side of the town along the river Simpson. There is a lovely walkway along the rover about 50 mts above the river level. At regular intervals, there are viewpoints and parks. There is even a cycling and skating track next to the path. The views of green hills and the blue waters of the Rio Simpson were quite a sight.
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  • Day106

    Mate Rotonda

    January 13, 2018 in Chile ⋅

    When we had reached half way through our walk from the North to South, Hristo joined us. There are some old steam run vehicles displayed in the open air here. From here we walked further South to the Mirador Chorillo. There were very lovely views from the viewpoint. After that, we ended our walk at the Mate Rotonda, so called since it has a statue of the Mate cup and bombilla.
    Mate is a traditional South American caffeine-rich infused drink, that was first consumed by the indigenous Guaraní and also spread by the Tupí people. It is prepared by steeping dried leaves of yerba mate in hot water in a shared hollow calabash gourd and is served with a metal straw from. The straw is called a bombilla in Spanish, a bomba in Portuguese, and a bombija or, more generally, a masassa(straw) in Arabic. The gourd is known as a mate or a guampa; while in Brazil, it has the specific name of cuia, or also cabaça.

    Coyhaique has a special association with the drink. One can find a lot of shops selling mate herbs, gourds and the bombillas.
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  • Day106

    Piedra del Indio

    January 13, 2018 in Chile ⋅

    From the mate rotonda, we walked half way back the way we had come and then took a short diversion down to the bridge across the Rio Simpson. The bridhe though frequently used, is a metal rope bridge where only one vehicle could pass at a time. From the bridge, we could see the rock formation in the form of the face of an Indian (the indigenous people).
    We walked over to the other end of the river before turning back and going to the town. There, Maria joined us and we had our dinner.
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Provincia de Coyhaique

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