Croatia
Primišlje

Here you’ll find travel reports about Primišlje. Discover travel destinations in Croatia of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

8 travelers at this place:

  • Day21

    Saturday in Dubrovnik

    September 9, 2017 in Croatia

    We arrived about 11am after an overnight night cruise through a thunder and lightning storm. The Old Town of Dubrovnik is a 15 minute bus ride from where the ship is docked. Den and I went in after lun h and wandered around. Interesting town with steps everywhere! We will return tomorrow to walk the walls. Back to the ship for dinner and the show. Hope the rain holds off tomorrow.

  • Day105

    Gedenken an die Schlacht von Vukovar

    November 21, 2017 in Croatia

    Der Bürgerkrieg ist erst 20 Jahre her, und nie ist das Gedenken so greifbar wie am 18. November

    Die Stadt Vukovar steht, für viele Kroaten, für das Leid des Bürgerkrieges. Vukovar liegt an der Grenze zu Serbien und war während des Kroatien-Kriegs 1991-1995 das am stärkste umkämpfte Gebiet. Bei der serbischen Belagerung und der Schlacht von Vukovar wurde Vukovar weitgehend zerstört.
    Um das Gedenken besser zu verstehen, hier ein gaanz kurzer Überblick über die Geschichte:

    Die Belagerung von Vukovar und die anschließende Schlacht dauerten insgesamt vom 14. September bis zum 20. November 1991. In dieser Zeit lieferten sich die Jugoslawische Volksarmee und die kroatische Armee kämpfe bis die Jugosalwische Armee Ende Oktober ihre Stragegie änderte und Vukovar Tag und Nacht belagerte und bombadierte. Hilfskonvois konnte nicht mehr in die Stadt und Foderungen der internationalen Gemeinschaft auf Beendiung des Kampfes bleiben ungehört. Am 18. November kapitulierte die kroatische Armee und die Kämpfe endeten endgültig am 20.11. Die Gefangenen des Kampfes, aber auch Patienten des örtlichen Krankenhauses wurden im wenige Tage später im Massakar von Vukovar ermordet.

    Das ist eine gaaaanz kurze Zusammenfassung von dem, was damals passiert ist.

    Jedes Jahr Gedenken die Kroaten dieser Schlacht, in dem in der Ulica grada Vukovara Kerzen aufgestellt werden- und die Straße ist immerhin ca. 5,5 km lang.
    So traurig der Anlass ist, desto schöner ist die Geste.
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  • Day11

    Another gorgeous day, another nice drive and another day of rocks! We passed huge mussel "farms" in the sea nearby.

    We headed one hour east to Paklenica National Park home to eagles, deer and bear, none of which we saw. The Park is a rock climbing mecca because of two huge canyons. There are 150 - 200 km of hikes, almost all of which are steep and rocky. It is too hot to hike in the summer so Sept and Oct are the busy months.

    To enter the park, we drove down small lanes - quite different from the grand entrances to Canadian parks. For less than $20, we got two park admissions and a day of parking. Then we drove an extremely narrow road with no guardrails to the start of the trails.

    At the start of the trails, we were surprised to find a cafe and education centre, all housed in a bomb shelter General Tito built in the side of the canyon.

    We hiked two hours up and were rewarded with a flat shady section. We were surprised and delighted to see four donkeys hauling supplies to an alpine hut. We never did find a beautiful lookout promised on a park brochure. At noon, we turned around and hiked one hour down.

    We had lunch nearby at Dinkos which is popular with hikers and climbers. The restaurant is decorated with old shoes and ropes.

    We both worked hard today and treated ourselves to a shower and rest when we returned to our apartment. Tomorrow is our last full day in the Zadar area.

    Gary's additional comments: It was a very nice park. It was amazing to see rock climbers so close. There are also caves which we did not get to see. On another topic, I am now adding sparking water to lighten up the local red wine and make it Pinot Noir-like.
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  • Day12

    April 26 Nin

    April 26 in Croatia

    Another hot day but dare we complain? Although the temperature only reached 23 degrees, the sun makes for intense heat. As you can see in the first pic, when it gets hot, the shutters go down, making the resort look like a storage locker:)

    We decided to stay close today and so explored the small town of Nin, population 1,132. It is surprising how much there was to see.

    First stop was the Church of St. Nicholas from the 12th century. It is the world's smallest cathedral. I am not sure what qualifies a small church to be called a cathedral but I think if a Bishop is in charge, then the building qualifies as a cathedral.

    Next stop was the Nin Salt Works where salt has been produced in traditional ways with the sea, sun and wind for 1500 years. The salt flats are immense, and we learned quite a lot about the importance of salt in history and the economy. Salt was one of the first currencies, hence the word "salary"- but you knew that, didn't you?

    We then parked and crossed the pedestrian stone bridge into the old town. The bridge was built in the 16th century and has partially fallen down - a good reminder that engineering has advanced over the centuries.

    We looked for shade and had a wonderful lunch. We then walked the perimeter of old town, stopped for gelato, and rubbed the toe of Bishop Gregory of Nin's statue for good luck. I don't think the Catholic Church would approve of this bit of superstition that appears in the guide books.

    We filled up with gas for the first time in a week. You certainly get good mileage with a Volkswagen Diesel vehicle.

    Tomorrow we are off to Dubrovnik in the south of Croatia. We are looking forward to new adventures.

    Gary's additional comments: Lunch was a highlight as well as the Salt Museum.
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  • Day13

    Today was a travel day. We drove 350 km on Croatia's very well designed express highway through the middle of the country. The speed limit was 130 km/hr and people (I suspect Germans) were passing us at 180-200 km/hr. The highway goes through the hills and mountains, not around or over, so we also travelled through 15 or so long tunnels. About 2 hours into the drive, a buzzer sounded on the dashboard with a coffee cup symbol. Isn't that a wonderful way to remind drivers to take a break?

    Nearing Dubrovnik, you must go through the Neum Corridor. Following the War of Independence in the 90s, the former Yugoslavia was divided into several countries including Croatia and Bosnia-Herzegovina. To ensure B.H. had access to the Adriatic, a small section of coastline was designated for that country so you have to enter and exit that Corridor with your passport. I can imagine there are very long lines in the summer but today we breezed through.

    As you go south in Croatia, it becomes lusher, warmer and more beautiful (in my opinion). There were farmers' fields that looked like little square islands surrounded by canals (for irrigation I imagine). And there were fruit stands every few metres with oranges and other local produce - just like the Okanagan.

    Our new resort is called Sun Gardens, in Orasac, just 12 km or so north of Dubrovnik. It is gorgeous here! We are so happy we went to the resort near Zadar first and are finishing our holiday here. The resort almost feels like a small village with cobblestone streets, shops, 16 restaurants (not all open now), hotel, residences (which we are in), sports centres, etc.

    We have a huge one bedroom with a full kitchen, living room, dining room, huge bathroom, bedroom with king sized bed, outdoor courtyard with table, chairs and loungers, AND air conditioning. They even provide face cloths which is a rarity in Europe.

    We had a lovely Italian lunch at La Pasta, followed by a siesta and then a swim in one of the pools.

    Tomorrow we will take the hotel shuttle into Dubrovnik as everyone says parking and driving are a nightmare.

    Gary's additional comments: The highlight today was making it to Dubrovnik in one piece. There were so many bad drivers - people on phones, tailgating, etc. I am very glad to be in such a nice place. It is even nicer than our place in Kelowna!
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  • Day17

    May 1 Trsteno Arboretum

    May 1 in Croatia

    Today was a gentle day. Gary went to the gym and I did a bit of Tai Chi outside - a first on this vacation for both of us.

    May 1 is a national holiday in Croatia and we were not sure what we would find open for lunch. We stopped in a nearby town, found a bistro and were pleasantly surprised by the service and food.

    We then headed to the Arboretum in Trsteno, a few km north of our resort. This botanical garden is 63 acres of trees, plants and flowers from Europe, Asia and America along with beautiful structures including an old villa, olive oil press, chapel and fountains with statues.

    The Arboretum was created by the Gozzi noble family from Dubrovnik in the late 15th century as a summer getaway and garden. It soon became a cultural hub for philosophers and poets during the renaissance. It has stunning views on the bluff overlooking the sea, and (you guessed it) has been used to film parts of the Game of Thrones.

    The gardens are still being watered from the original aqueduct system. Isn't that amazing?

    History is coming alive for me. I can imagine the Gozzi family telling Marco Polo (from nearby Korcula) "Please bring us back some plants and seeds from your next trip."

    Tomorrow we are taking a day long cruise to three nearby islands.

    Gary's additional comments: The highlight of today was having such low expectations for lunch and being so impressed. I had an excellent seafood tagliatelle that was mostly shelled 1 inch mussels. Beautiful.
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  • Day8

    Yes, this morning was laundry day and an adventure of its own. The sister property is a massive family hotel called Diadora that has "self laundry facilities" or as we discovered, one coin operated washer and dryer. After a fortifying latte on the patio of this property, Gary was a hero walking back to our condo for dirty clothes and navigating the massive sister property to get proper coins. He is sure that the hotel was designed by Ikea as there is one entrance, and then you need to walk every part of every floor before you can exit! The dryer cycle was 90 minutes long so we removed our clothes early and hung them on the rack on our patio in true Croatian fashion. I don't think people believe us when we tell them it is against bylaws to hang laundry outside in Calgary.

    Lunch was so much fun! We drove to Petrcane which is 5 minutes away. Being Sunday, we were not sure what was open. However we found Konoba Liburna with a covered terrace next to the water. As we were waiting for our lunch, the cook came out to the terrace and shouted something enthusiastically in German. We wondered if she was saying "Whoever has the Volkswagen better remove it or it will be towed". It turned out she was announcing a chicken special. What a character she was. She later delivered plates of surprise potato fritters to each table. We told her they were delicious and she said, "Of course they are! I am Natasja and I won Master Chef on Jamie Oliver's show on BBC in 2000". She was wearing her Master Chef apron. She also was singing operatic songs as she moved through the restaurant. You can see her exuberant personality in my pic with her.

    We then strolled the boardwalk along the sea. There is a Croatian word "pomalo" which means "to live free from time". I think we are starting to understand how wonderful that is. Have I told you afternoon siestas are part of life here? Businesses close mid afternoon which we discovered looking for a grocery store. In any event, the sun, sea, food, wine and copious amounts of coffee help create pomalo.

    We then went to our first winery, Kraljevski Vongradi, sometimes called the Royal Winery. It was created in 1066 when the Croatian King gave the vineyards to the Benedictine Monastery. And why did he give it to them? Gary discovered that in many countries, wineries were given to monks because conquering armies from other countries would usually allow religious orders to continue making wine for church services. Isn't that interesting? The winery does not officially open its tasting room and restaurant until May. However they were open for a few groups today so they kindly moved two chairs under a tree and let us taste wine. The view from the winery which is on top of a high hill is incredible. There was a breeze, wonderful music, the sound of children playing...pomalo again:)

    Tomorrow I think we will explore the old town in Zadar.

    Gary's additional comments: It was a good lunch.
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  • Day7

    April 21 Off to Zadar

    April 21 in Croatia

    A big adventure today. After breakfast, we had one last latte on the Riva and pulled our suitcases to the taxi area. This was our first taxi ride. The car felt brand new but was six years old and lovingly cared for by the driver. (More about cars later in this blog).

    The car rental process was quick and painless. We were upgraded to a Volkswagen Diesel Golf, standard as most cars are. We got lost two times trying to exit Split, but got on track and had a very pleasant drive. We were hedging our bets and had our own GPS, a hard copy map, my iPhone with Google Maps and some printed instructions. The roads are in excellent condition and signage is great. There were many signs warning about wild boars crossing, but I didn't get a pic.

    We had hoped to have a seaside lunch in Sibenik but we missed all the exits and so carried on to a restaurant at a traffic circle. It turned out to have great food and was clearly a local gathering place for families. They roasted meats in an entirely separate building and you wouldn't believe the size of the meat platters that people consumed. We were the only non-locals and in a gesture of hospitality (or looking for tips), they served us two grappas with our bill.

    Gary steered us straight to the resort which it turns out has just reopened for the season. The resort is brand new and our one bedroom apartment, although small by Canadian standards, is well equipped with Miele appliances and bidet, and is efficiently designed, as you would expect from German hotel owners. However, the pools are not filled yet, and when we asked for help to get the air conditioning going, the maintenance team came and gave us the verbal Croatian shrug, saying "Sorry, only heat until May 1, then air conditioning".

    Now, a few interesting bits about cars in Croatia:
    1. There is no rust so cars last forever. You do, however, have to worry about the blowing dust from the Sahara Desert.
    2. Germany has recently banned diesel vehicles and as a result, Croatians are delighted to get good deals on diesel cars and vans.
    3. Croatians learn how to make their own car parts in school. (Alex would love this). So again there is a fondness for older vehicles that do not have electronics.

    A few comments about life for young Croatians:
    1. Many young people are leaving for better careers in Germany and surprisingly (for us), Ireland. Both of these countries have removed many of the barriers to emigrating.
    2. The average age for a woman to have her first child is 40. I am not sure why but it is partly because of the war and the economy.
    3. Housing is becoming unaffordable for young people, because of tourism. Basically apartments are rented to tourists for income streams.
    4. Because housing is so difficult, when a man marries, his parents will build another storey on their house for their son and new wife. When a second son marries, another storey is built.

    We look forward to exploring the area tomorrow.

    Gary's additional comments: Diane has been reasonably unstressed about driving in general, and my driving in particular.
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  • Day9

    April 23 Exploring Zadar

    April 23 in Croatia

    It was cool enough to have breakfast on our terrace. Our terrace is in the morning sun which is intense. When we leave our apartment for the day, we need to use the roller shutters on our Euroline windows to keep out the heat. By the afternoon, the breezes from the sea cool our terrace very nicely.

    We drove 12 km north to Vir to get our morning coffee. Yes, we are that desperate. We thought we would find a seaside cafe but instead joined the locals at a bar where some men were already drinking at 9:00 am. It turned out to be our best and least expensive coffee. (I know Lise is thinking I should stop writing about coffee.)

    We then headed south to Zadar for the day. The old part of the town is walled and has cobblestone streets but allows cars so it was quite a different experience than Split. We parked in the main city, walked a quay with beautiful yachts, and then were taken to the old town by a man in a row boat. The rowers of Zadar are called "barkajoli" and are as revered as gondoliers of Venice. We shared our rowboat experience with a military man from Newfoundland on leave from Latvia.

    We had lunch in a lovely stone courtyard, and then walked the Riva and the perimeter of old town. Zadar is famous for its sea organ, an underwater geologic structure that somehow creates moaning sounds. It is the only auditory "sight seeing" spot I have been too. There were about 60 people standing on one place on the Riva just listening to the sea organ - nothing to see. Strange but wonderful.

    Gary climbed the bell tower while I admired some lace, embroidery and knitted goods on display in a lane.

    Instead of taking the row boat back, we walked over a pedestrian bridge and made our way past the marina back to our car, which, we are happy to report, did not have a parking ticket. It occurred to us we don't know what the rules are around parking on the street.

    Gary's additional comments. It was nice to go for a drive. The feeling I have is there is no-one here - no-one on the road and the homes seem empty with shutters drawn. Everything is for rent. It is very quiet in the low season.
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  • Day10

    In the last 24 hours, we have driven to Nin, Vir, Pag and Lun - sounds like a scrabble game, doesn't it?

    Today we looked at the map and decided to drive about 3 hours up a nearby peninsula assuming we would have great views of the sea. At the end of the peninsula is a small town, Lun. It was another beautiful day of blue skies and low 20 degrees. We saw the sea, lots of small towns and lots of rocks. Our grandson loves rocks and he would be in his glory here.

    Croatia is extremely rocky and here are a few interesting facts - some from my in house geologist and some from Croatians we have met:
    1. Croatian rocks are mostly limestone and marble, and are much younger than Canadian rocks. Croatian rocks are from the Miocene era, 20 million years old, and some Canadian rocks are of the Precambrian era, 500 million - 1 billion years old.
    2. The rocky terrain provides benefits to Croatia: the impact of earthquakes and flooding is lessened. The terrain is perfect for growing olives. Sheep are well suited to the terrain as well. However, we have not seen cattle or horses (I am guessing they would break their legs) nor have we seen "farmland" so I am not sure where food is grown.
    3. The limestone and marble deposits are immense. In fact, some quarries have been continuously operating since the time of the Romans (maybe before). Rumour has it some of the marble in the White House came from Croatia.
    4. Now the sad news. Any pictures of sandy beaches in Croatia are a lie. Beaches are made of crushed limestone of various sizes and hence, water shoes are a must on the beach and a good idea when swimming.

    The peninsula was like another world, almost a moonscape in places with only rock and sea, no vegetation. We explored some side roads, and at one point, were completely surrounded by sheep being herded by a Croatian woman. We also saw many shrines to the Virgin Mary on the side of the road, as you might expect in a country that is 95% Catholic. All in all, it was a very interesting and stunning road trip.

    Gary's additional comments: I have 2 GPS' - the one I brought with me, and the one sitting in the passenger seat, which is voice activated. Every so often, I hear speaking and gurgling sounds, triggered by fear of going over the edge into the harbour.
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Primišlje, Primislje

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