Rab

I got up early this morning, had breakfast with my two tent neighbours, packed my stuff and saddled the bike to get to the ferry terminal in Valbiska. It was only a 10km ride with around 200m elevation, but it was ridiculously hot day and I arrived pretty exhausted at 11:30am. I was also rushing a little since ferrys here don't always stick to the schedule (they arrive, load, and once their full they just leave again), and I was late - as usual. 🙈

The ferry ride took about 1.5 hours and offered some great views on the surrounding islands on its way. I mostly stayed inside the air conditioned sitting area though and read a little.

I arrived in Lopar on the island of Rab. From this very touristy place I cycled along the coast towards Rab City. There were some amazing views along the way and for some kilometers I was cycling right along the sea, which was great.
Once I arrived in Rab around 5pm I went to a campground close by to ask for a night stay, but the lady told me they are more than full and I should cycle further south and try a little campground in Barbat. So I went there but as expected, it was also full. 😬 Germans on the campground offered me to set up my tent in their pitch but the owner didn't allow it, however, he offered me to use the washrooms and recommended to just sleep at the beach without setting up my tent. This way it wouldn't be too obvious and they apparently don't control this beach too frequently (wild camping is forbidden in Croatia, it's a 400€ fine if they catch you 🤑🥴). I didn't feel very comfortable just sleeping there thinking I wouldn't get a proper rest.. it was a pretty busy and open beach and there was nowhere to hide my stuff and bike. So I checked up the ferry time table to leave the islands again and decided to cycle back to Rab to catch the last ferry to Pag island at 6:55pm. It was around 6:30pm when I arrived in Rab City again and I had to check the way to the ferry terminal when I stopped along the road where two other bikepackers where jist having a break. We started talking and they told me that they mostly wildcamp and never got caught. They offered me to join them for the night instead of taking the ferry which I then did. So we cycled again(!) to the south to find a sheltered sleeping space, which we found on a dead end road past the houses on a hillside. We set up the tents, when a curious older couple came past. Since they obviously noticed us, we asked them if we could stay for the night which was fine with them.
I had a sunset swim in the sea, went back to the camp and chattet with Heike and Chris for two more hours before we went to sleep.
They are truely amazing people from Berlin. They are in their 50s and already did many of such trips, this time they started cycling in Vienna. I was lucky to bump into them! :)Read more