Croatia
Saplunara

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    • Day 32

      Day 32 - Cycling in Mljet National Park

      September 4, 2020 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      We started our active day with a breakfast of champions - muesli, banana & nectarines. We then headed out with our swimming togs for a day in Mljet National Park.

      We drove the single road entire length (27 miles) of Mljet to the small harbour town of Polace to purchase our entrance tickets to the park. Whilst Jackie got out to get the tickets, I waited with the car on a very narrow road until suddenly there was a thump at the back. A woman driver had tried to squeeze past & had hit my bike with her wing mirror & driven on without stopping. Luckily no damage was caused.

      With our entrance tickets purchased at 125 kuna (£15) each, we drove through the hilly village of Govedari (by mistake) then arrived at the National Park car park. We unloaded our cycles & set off for a leisurely pedal around Veliko Jezero, better known as the large lake. It was idyllic.

      The salt water lake was bright blue & crystal clear. The path followed the large lake around the entire circumference (about 11kms) & there was next to no-one else about. We stopped for one or two (hundred) photos & to read the interesting information signs.

      During the ride we stopped for some sustenance in the form of fruit we had brought with us & Jackie uttered the immortal line “I think I’ve squashed my plums”. Not something you expect to hear from your wife during a bike ride!

      We then followed the path around the Malo Jezero (small lake) until it petered out about half way round & we were forced to turn round. We returned to Mali most, the small bridge that connected the 2 lakes, where we took a free solar powered ferry across the large lake to St. Mary’s Islet with it’s 12th century Benedictine monastery & St. Mary’s Church. Both were abandoned by the monks in the 19th century. Jackie lit a candle for her mum. It was a pleasant respite from a day in the saddle.

      An hour and a half later, we were returned to our bikes & we cycled the opposite way around Veliko Jezero until we found our very own secluded spot for a swim in the lake. Jackie already had her bikini on underneath, whereas I had to change. We had our refreshing swim then started to change back into our clothes. It was at this point that Jackie realised that she had made another wardrobe error. She had only packed 2 bikini tops, but no bottoms. Jackie had to go commando for the rest of the day!

      It was gone 3pm when we returned to the car. Jackie was not just knickerless, but also bleeding from a gash to her leg. A stone had been thrown up from her front tyre. We loaded up & drove back to the apartment to chill on our balcony. Sadly there were very few boats in our cove tonight to spy on.

      For dinner we walked downstairs. Jackie had grilled sardines, whilst I had a very disappointing spaghetti bolognese. Over dinner we chatted with the owner who 10 years ago had spent time in Whitby & Blackpool. We persuaded him to let us take his sun beds to the beach tomorrow.

      The miserable foreign couple, we have now identified as being French, shared a beer & a salad.

      After a wine on our balcony, whilst watching England snatch victory from the jaws of defeat against Australia in the T20, we called it an early night.

      Song of the Day : Fat Bottomed Girls by Queen.
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    • Day 33

      Day 33 - Super Yacht Ulysses

      September 5, 2020 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

      Woke up this morning to find a massive super yacht moored up in our cove. It was side on, so we couldn’t read it’s name, but using my detective skills, I googled the identification number VP-CPB of it’s helicopter, which told me it was a ship now called Andromeda, owned by a Russian billionaire (which turned out to be wrong!)

      Later on the super yacht drifted around & identified itself to us as Ulysses, a 116 metre vessel owned by New Zealand billionaire, Graeme Hart. Hart is the richest person in Australasia, with a net worth of $8.6 billion. More money than sense.

      Hart bought 2 super yachts, which are actually expedition vessels from Norwegian company Kleven. Apparently Kleven told him that he had to buy 2 of the vessels if he wanted them to his exacting specifications. Why not, they only cost $275 million each.

      Hart later sold the 1st one, now Andromeda to the Russian billionaire, Yuri Milner, who had early investment in tech companies, including 8% of Facebook & 5% of Twitter (I wasn’t so wrong after all).

      We spent the morning with our binoculars watching the comings & goings on Ulysses. It has a crew of 48 persons & every single toy you could ever imagine. We counted that they had about 10 additional boats including one that was a triple decker. The guests numbered about 8 & half of them were young children.

      It was weird to see that the entire crew wore masks for the entire time they were out on deck & they shadowed the guests everywhere as if they were blind or too fragile to fall over. If a guest got wet, they had two staff holding towels out for them. I don’t know why wouldn’t do!

      After breakfast we moved our OP to the beach & acquired 2 free sun beds that we had negotiated with the owner the previous evening.

      Around 11.00am, I went for a run to Blace Beach & to photo Ulysses from a different perspective. The driftwood sculpture I had accidentally demolished was still demolished. Returning to our beach, Jackie & I had a discussion that we probably wanted to stay in Saplunara a bit longer.

      Over a beer & salami & cheese sandwich at lunch, we both agreed that we would definitely like to stay longer after weighing up the pros and cons. It was the view from our balcony that was the clincher. It was further cemented when we moved our sun beds to the concrete jetty & spent the afternoon watching the boat goings on in the cove. It wasn’t for the prudish though, because it seems that most ‘boaties’ like to have a swim then strip off above board in full view of everyone else.

      At 6.00pm we retired to our balcony & I had the added bonus of discovering the England v Iceland football match had just kicked off. Much to Jackie’s delight! It turned out to be a good result, but a poor performance.

      At the conclusion of the game, we went down to dinner & negotiated a cheaper deal than Booking.com to keep our apartment for another 3 nights. We then had a fantastic meal of chicken & pork skewers with Ajvar (a roasted red pepper sauce) chips & vegetables. The restaurant has redeemed itself. We were given a large bowl of complimentary sweet grapes to finish off.

      During dinner, Ulysses silently departed.

      Song of the Day : Ship of Fools by World party
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    • Day 34

      Day 34 - Are We Turning into Germans?

      September 6, 2020 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

      After waking up, I could not think about anything else than fretting that someone else would take our sun beds & our spot on the jetty. Panic took over & I rushed down with towels & sarongs & placed them on the sun beds I had moved into position. Feeling relieved, we then went shopping for ingredients for a homemade dinner, before breakfast.

      Jackie dropped the large toothpaste lid down the basin plughole & try as we might it won’t come out.

      About 9.30am we took up our positions on harbour watch. At 11.30am we both ran the mile or so to Blace Beach, where I got attacked by a ‘smoking’ beagle yapping at my ankle. We also came across a dog on a scooter wearing sunglasses!

      After our run back, we had a cooling swim, then retired to our balcony for a liquid lunch. The afternoon couldn’t have been any better. I took my iPad to the jetty & watched England thrash Australia in the T20, whilst Jackie watched a group of naked gay men frolicking on their yacht.

      At the conclusion of the cricket, Jackie brought the two ring electric stove out on to the balcony & cooked up a sensational meal of rigatoni pasta with pancetta, onion, red peppers, garlic, tomatoes & of course, chilli.

      The night was complete with a Sky movie.

      Song of the Day : Run by Snow Patrol.
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    • Day 35

      Day 35- It’s Just a Wave Passing Over Me

      September 7, 2020 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      The morning started with a trip to the supermarket upstairs for a loaf of bread & strawberry jam. After breakfast, I set out our sun beds & marked our territory with towels. I then ran upstairs to the car to inflate zoom lolly lilo & met Jackie back on the pontoon. I was knackered.

      We got settled & Jackie took the lilo out for a spin. I was minding my own business being nosey, when suddenly I was saturated. A wave had crashed over the pontoon & covered the sun beds in salty water. These waves continued for the rest of the day forcing us to move our sun beds back up the jetty.

      These choppy waters I hope are not a sign of things to come, particularly trying to get back to the UK. It is an absolute nightmare trying to work out the best route home & what we need to do before & at the border crossings. We are praying that Croatia is taken off the high risk list in the very near future, but that would be a miracle.

      Late morning, we went for our customary run to Blace Beach & back, followed by a swim. I returned to the supermarket to buy some bottles of beer to accompany the remainder of last nights pasta for lunch. I noticed that there was an additional charge with the beers & we currently believe it is a deposit on the bottles. We had just been putting them in an empty crate at the front of the supermarket, which might explain why some little old man who sits outside is always happy to see us. He is probably returning into the supermarket & getting 15 pence for each.

      There wasn’t so much happening aboard the yachts in the afternoon, so I read my book, Paul Theroux’s The Pillars of Hercules - A Grand Tour of the Mediterranean. Jackie had a snooze.

      We had dinner back downstairs in the evening & although we had pork skewers & chicken again, it didn’t seem as delicious as the previous evening. We did confirm that the extra charge for the beers was a deposit for the bottles.

      Song of the Day : Waves by Blancmange.
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    • Day 36

      Day 36 - In The Buff

      September 8, 2020 in Croatia ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

      Not a lot happened today.

      We sat in our usual spot.

      A huge moth committed suicide in front of us.

      We did our usual run, swim & lunch.

      In the afternoon I got attacked by a butterfly licking my salty body.

      We later packed our stuff up & Jackie cooked more pasta for tea.

      We watched the cricket in the buff on our balcony.

      Song of the Day : The Butterfly Collector by The Jam.

      Bonus Song : Moth by PJ Harvey.
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