Splitsko-Dalmatinska Županija

Here you’ll find travel reports about Splitsko-Dalmatinska Županija. Discover travel destinations in Croatia of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

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  • Day18


    June 21, 2018 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    Although the train was late in the evening arriving, the front of the popular Croatian seaside resort of Split was bustling with bars and restaurants as I made my way to my lovely modernised studio apartment in the old town. What did we do before Google maps? The town reminded me of a very upmarket Blackpool, busy mainly with young people from all over Europe on holiday.

    After a good night’s sleep I set off to find the main attraction of Split - Diocletian’s Palace - built as a retirement home for the Roman Emperor Diocletian at the turn of the 4th century AD, only to find it was virtually on my doorstep. I enjoyed a guided walking tour of this fascinating place from a somewhat zany guide, who seemed like she had had had too many years on the wacky backy.

    Given the heat again, I headed for the city beach in the afternoon, only a 15 minute walk away and enjoyed a lovely swim in the sea. Two British lads were showing off their sporting prowess in the water - throwing a frisbee to each other while holding a can of lager. Then in the evening off to cross the Adriatic once again, only a bit further north, this time from Split, Croatia to Ancona, Italy.

    Farewell Croatia, it’s been nice getting to know you, even although it’s been all too short.
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  • Day19


    July 6, 2017 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Back in Croatia. Spending the night in Trogir just north of Split. Traffic was very intense, couldn't get the GPS to work properly and the GPS voice yelled all the street names at us in Croatian😡but finally found where we are staying.

  • Day18

    More Zagreb

    June 21, 2018 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 23 °C

    Did I say what a beautiful city Zagreb was? Had a lovely walk around today again in the warm sunshine. Took in Ban Jelačić Square - the main meeting point; the twin towered Cathedral of the Assumption of our Blessed Virgin Mary - the emblem of the city; the Dolac fruit and vegetable market; the Botanic Gardens; and some of the lovely Art Nouveau buildings that dot the city. Took the world’s shortest passenger cable railway up to the Upper Town and it was even prettier, with its cobbled streets, St Mark’s Church and the Stone Gate.

    Not one for museums when the sun is shining, I couldn’t resist the Museum of Broken Relationships. This very unusual museum was recommended to me by my friend Lorraine Wilson, in her book Facing Forwards, about her 3 month solo train trip round Europe which has been an inspiration for my trip. Well worth a read. The exhibits have been donated by members of the public and each have a short explanation of how it related to the end of a relationship. It was powerful and I was in floods more than once. To console visitors, the attached café offered ‘beers as cold as your ex’s heart.’

    To recover from all that emotion, I treated myself to afternoon tea at the fabulous Esplanade Hotel, built in 1925 to provide top-notch accommodation for passengers on the Orient Express, which made one of its stops at Zagreb. Apparently the locals were shocked at a performance by provocative dancer Josephine Baker in 1929.

    All too soon it was back in the rails and off to the Croatian coastal resort of Split, with beautiful lush scenery all the way. But I loved Zagreb and will be back.
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  • Day138

    Seget Vranjica layby

    November 11, 2016 in Croatia ⋅ 🌧 12 °C

    It was time to pack up and leave Camp Kalebić.

    The previous evening had been lovely, Will went fishing as the sun dipped low over the islands and Vicky had sat on the wall with the campsite's black cat purring contentedly on her knee. When she'd gone back in the van, black cat had followed, only to execute a sharp u-turn when he saw Poppy and Poppy saw him. Vicky shut the door but minutes later heard a knocking in the boot. Upon investigation black cat had tried to stow himself away!

    Soon after Will returned, the storm began and we'd had a restless night with persistent heavy rain drumming on the roof and 10 hours of thunder and lightning sillhouetting islands as it light up the bay. Unfortunately the storm wasn't letting up and there was still the canoe to put on the roof, the toilet to empty and the water tank to fill.

    We hadn't seen much of the owners as they'd been busy harvesting and bagging up olives from the campsite trees. (The showers had turned into a storage facility for a huge vat of olives!)

    We found a layby with a view of the sea about 30km north of Split. The number of campsites had dwindled and we wanted to be close to Split in order to visit it the next morning. There had been a pause in the thunder and lightning but it returned again that evening. Poppy's health hasn't been good and she is needing to be taken out every 2 or 3 hours - not a pleasant task at night in heavy rain. Oh well, at least it wasn't cold!
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  • Day30


    July 6, 2017 in Croatia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Trogir is set within medieval walls on a tiny island, linked by bridges to both the mainland and to the far larger Čiovo Island. I have included an aerial photo of Trogir which shows it off really well. There are about 10 churches and numerous buildings from the 13th century, the city walls are 15th Century, the Fortress Kamerlengo 15th Century, Duke's Palace and Cathedral 13th Century!
    This is obviously a party destination for a lot of the 18-35 year olds cruising along the Dalmation Coast - the harbour is full of huge power yachts which are full of young party animals dancing the night away. Once the restaurants start to empty from the dinner crowds the lights along the harbour dim and the party music starts. Oh to be young again 😆 Tomorrow we head to Zadar.
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  • Day139

    Split, tornadoes, thunder and rainbows

    November 12, 2016 in Croatia ⋅ ⛅ 11 °C

    Thankfully the stormy weather had blown over by the morning and the coast was once again bathed in sunshine. The route to Split became increasingly urban, with advertisements for large shopping centres, a Cemex factory, signs to a Porsche dealer (Will says 'who wants a Split Porsche?') and numerous white high rise flats crowded together. Ahead was the city, to the left rocky mountain ridges rose parallel to the coastline and to the right was a stunningly blue sea. We'd seen more and more marinas as we drew closer to the city and the boats in them became more and more expensive. Multistorey wood panelled cruisers that were probably worth millions took over most moorings but there were still local two person fishing boats (needed to supply the rich with their share of seafood!)

    Parking was stressfull but Will's eagle eyes eventually spotted a sign for campervans near the railway station and close to the centre. We headed straight to the fish market. There were a number of small stalls either with the produce spread out directly on the table or in an array of crates. A Croatian speciality is squid ink risotto and Will had looked up the recipe, so we got a few squid, some strange looking prawn-like shellfish with fake eyes on their tails and some small red tinged fish that seemed to be popular. We'd heard there was a craft market and photography gallery but the craft market turned out only to have a few stalls and the gallery wasn't open. Oh well, we accepted it as a disadvantage of visiting outside the tourist season.

    Next on the agenda was Diocletian's palace, built by the Roman Emperor in 295 AD and subsequently used as shops, houses and places of worship. Down a flight of steps, in an area with a high vaulted stone roof we found stalls selling a range of products that included art, jewellery, soaps and clothes. It was tempting, but with only a small amount of space in the van we favour consumables and so went to investigate the fruit and veg market. It was the liveliest part of town with a real 'hustle and bustle', vendors shouting 'Qualitay, Qualitay' and encouraging you to try or 'test' their produce. It was great knowing so many things like olives and their oil, figs, sharon fruit and cheese were locally grown and produced. There was even a plant seller where we got some potted herbs, an African Violet and a pink Cyclamen to remind us of the woods at Krka National Park. Our bags full, we drove on to a seafront layby and feasted on our buys, looking back on Split further around the bay.

    We feel truly lucky to be able to do what we are doing, but driving the Croatian coast road underlines what a fantastic journey we are on. The hills grew higher as we progressed further south and the sun reflected a bright silver off the Adriatic. The sky changed from blue to an intense and ominous grey. Vicky had seen a small line of cloud being drawn down from the main mass but hadn't believed what she was seeing until it turned into a fully formed tornado, reaching down to the sea and sucking water up! Will managed to pull over and we watched as the first tornado dissipated and a second, more spindly one formed. It all seemed quite surreal!

    We called at one campsite which was closed and so was the campsite we'd planned to stay at. We were directed to another campsite which was, yes, closed. This one had a place to park outside, so we pulled up and stayed there. Camping outside a designated stopover in Croatia isn't allowed but with so many sites being shut this time of year it is difficult to stay in designated places every night.

    The rain was torrential and the lightening inevitably started up again, so close at times that the thunder physically shook the van. We were however, treated to a break in the clouds. There was a change in the colour of light to golden, then rosy and looking outside we saw a double rainbow emerging from behind the nearby hillside!

    Will outdid himself in cooking tea that night. A starter of 'tail eye prawns' with fried squid tentacles and a delicious main course of squid ink risotto or Crni Risot as it is called over here.
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  • Day140

    Dalmacija Resort, Zaostrog

    November 13, 2016 in Croatia ⋅ 🌙 9 °C

    Wow, last night was windy! Despite being protected by a large hill we were buffeted with force.

    On our way to Ploče to check out the ferry crossing to the Pelješac peninsula we kept a close eye out for campsites. We needed toilet and water services by now and couldn't depend on a ferry crossing to the stopover we knew about on the peninsula. It was 8th time lucky (including yesterday's attempts) so you can imagine how happy we were to find Dalmacija Resort open! After arranging to stay the night we continued on to Ploče to buy ferry tickets.

    On the way back we stopped for lunch at a layby overlooking a beautiful set of inland lakes. The air was still with only the gentlest of breezes in places. Reflections of autumnal trees and hills in the water made the view appear like something conjured up in the imagination and brought to life in a painting.

    Returning to Dalmacija Resort, a mixed site of van pitches, log cabins and apartments, Robert the site manager hailed us with his little dog/fox cross, Buba. He'd had friends over and cooked chicken on the outdoor wood stove, far too much for them to finish so would we like to join him? We couldn't say no! He fed us chicken, bread and wine and we got to know one another and his watchful ginger tom cat. He told us that last night's wind had been 160kmph (no wonder it rocked the van!). It is familiar to the locals who know it as the 'Bura'.

    The site had wifi so after watching a glorious sunset we spent the evening catching up with family including a video call to Will's son and daughter in law and our beautiful grandaughter! We were also able to Skype Vicky's brother Ali, who was celebrating his birthday at Dad and Sarah's. It means a lot to us to be able to keep in contact with family and friends back home, something that Germany's restrictive connection regulations made difficult.

    The following day was very relaxing. Poppy met Buba and the young black lurcher that belonged to one of Robert's friends. Vicky took advantage of the washing machine before we were invited to share a drink of cherry brandy and schnapps with Robert and another friend. A peaceful canoe paddle took us a little way down the coast before Will had a dip in the sea and we had nice hot showers courtesy of the resort.

    As we were turning in for the evening, Robert came over with a bag containing approximately 7kg of freshly picked clementines for us. His friend with the black lurcher had a couple of trees and more fruit than he knew what to do with. Still, it was very nice of them to think of us!
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  • Day4

    Hvala heißt Danke

    October 6, 2018 in Croatia ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Die Sonne hatte es heute schwer, sich gegen die dicken, schweren Wolken durchzusetzen. Trotzdem nahmen wir uns vor, den Weg nach Pomajna zu laufen. Auch dieser führt stets an der Küste entlang und bietet tolle Panoramen.

    Die Küste wirkt in dieser Richtung etwas wilder. Die Wege sind nicht ganz so gepflegt wie die in Richtung Brela, sind aber gerade deswegen besonders reizvoll.

    Man wandert gemütlich durch Pinienwäldchen, vorbei an ausgestorbenen Ferienanlagen, von denen man kaum glauben kann, dass sie im Sommer von Touristen bewohnt werden. Sie wirken, als seien sie in den 60ern erbaut aber nie gepflegt worden.

    Als der Himmel immer dunkler wurde, machten wir kehrt ... Pomajna soll anscheinend nicht sein.

    Als es anfing zu regnen, machten wir unser Picknick unter einer dichten Pinie. Dafür hatten wir zuvor bei dem kleinen Bäcker in Baska Voda mit Käse und Kartoffeln gefüllte Teigtaschen geholt. Wann erlebt man das schon mal ... Picknick im Regen.

    Nach 10 Minuten war der Spuk auch schon wieder vorbei, und es konnte weitergehen.

    Zurück in Baska Voda kehrten wir in dem kleinen Cafe Portun am Hafen ein, wo uns eine Kellnerin namens Anita bediente.

    Wir entschieden uns für eine Schoko-Orangen-Torte mit lockerem Biskuit, der wunderbar mit einer dicken Schicht aus fruchtig-rahmiger Orangencreme mit Jaffa-Keks harmonierte, dekoriert mit ebenso cremiger Sahne, knackigen Schokostückchen und einer kleinen Orangenscheibe.

    Na, läuft euch das Wasser im Munde zusammen?

    Ich denke, dieses Tortenstück war Highlight des Tages. Viel mehr kann da nicht kommen.

    Hvala an den Zuckerbäcker. 😍😁
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  • Day1

    Entlang der Makarska Riviera

    October 3, 2018 in Croatia ⋅ 🌙 17 °C

    Pünktlich hob sich unser Flieger in die Lüfte, und unsere Sonnenscheinverlängerungswochen können beginnen. 🌞

    Ich liebe es, wenn das Flugzeug 🛫 höher und höher steigt, sich dann „in die Kurve“ legt, und man schaut nochmal runter auf die kleine Welt, bis man dann durch die Wolken düst und schwupps .... ist man hoch oben ... über den Wolken, wie Reinhard Mey so schön sang und fühlt sich frei. (Ich höre grad meinen Deutschlehrer: „Birgit, schon wieder so ein Mammutsatz!“ 😁)

    Auch der Anflug auf Split samt Kurve war super. Ein toller Blick auf Split, das Wasser, die Inseln und die Berge.

    Nach Baska Voda ins Hotel hatten wir quasi einen Privatchauffeur. Es ging eine Stunde immer die Küste entlang. Das erinnerte ein wenig an die Fahrt über den Chapmens Peak Drive letztes Jahr ... ein bisschen. 😉

    Unser Hotel ist sehr schön. Das Zimmer geht nach hinten mit Blick auf die Berge. Jede Stunde bimmelt die Kirchenglocke nebenan. ⛪

    Heute haben wir nicht mehr viel gemacht. Nach dem Abendessen (lecker, lecker ... viel Fisch) zogen wir los zur Promenade. Wir mussten doch an der Webcam der Mutti winken. 🙋👫 📹

    Nach ein paar kleinen Einkäufen schlenderten wir zurück und lassen nun den Abend bei einem Radler ausklingen.

    Prost! 🍻
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  • Day2

    Schöne Aus- und tiefgründige Einblicke

    October 4, 2018 in Croatia ⋅ 🌙 21 °C

    Nach dem Frühstück machten wir uns bei sonnigen 22° (später sollte es noch richtig warm werden) auf den Weg nach Brela. Das ist ein kleiner Ort knapp 2,5 km die Küste rauf. Man kann hier sehr schön über eine kleine Promenade gehen, überall stehen Bänke und so braucht der genießende Urlauber gern mal ein paar Stunden für die eigentlich kurze Strecke.

    Wir schlenderten also gemütlich los, saßen mal auf dieser Bank, dann auf jenem Mäuerchen, schauten zu beim Schnorcheln und Baden und konnten uns auch sonst nicht satt sehen an diesem kristallklaren Wasser. Eine Bank lud zu längerem Verweilen ein, sie stand malerisch auf einem kleinen Felsvorsprung unter einer großen Kiefer. Der Strand hier an der Punta Rata soll ja unter den 10 schönsten Stränden der Welt sein. 🏖🏝

    Es ist nicht mehr sehr viel los jetzt im Herbst. Die Strände sind fast leer. Ich denke mal, dass es im Sommer nicht so gemütlich ist.

    Wir gingen bis zum „Felsen von Brela“, den man bis zum Beginn des 20. Jahrhunderts „Sakan“ nannte, weil man dort wohl ab und zu die Mittelmeer-Mönchsrobbe sehen konnte, die in den Unterwasserhöhlen von Brela viel Fischfutter finden konnte. Jetzt hat man sie aber schon lange nicht mehr gesichtet, denn mittlerweile steht sie auf der roten Liste und gilt als fast ausgestorben.

    Auf dem Rückweg kehrten wir ein in einem kleinen Restaurant mit gemütlicher Terrasse. Nur für eine Kleinigkeit! *schwör 🌮

    Hier konnte ich ein kroatisches Pärchen 💋💘 beobachten. Dabei fiel besonders SIE ins Auge. Blond mit wilder Lockenmähne, knallrotem Kleid 💃, tiefem ... sehr tiefem Dekollete und mächtig rundem Busen. 😎

    Irgendwann beim Nachtisch, Palatschinken mit Schokosoße, tupfte sie sich Schokocreme auf ihre Brüste und bat ihre Begleitung, mit ihrem rosa Handy ein Foto 📷 zu machen. Das Foto hat sie dann ... Achtung, ich fabuliere ... ihrer besten Freundin Svetlana geschickt mit dem Text: „Liebe Svetlana, die Schokolade wird mir gleich der Enrico (oder wie auch immer heißblütige Kroaten heißen) wegschlabbern.“ Achtung, Fabulieren Ende!

    Jedenfalls war es sehr amüsant. 😁

    Beim Abendessen im Hotel hab ich dann kurz mit dem Gedanken gespielt ... geht das auch mit Mousse au Chokolat? 🍫🍯

    Hab den Gedanken dann mangels Dekollete aufgegeben. 😇

    Gute Nacht. 😉
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Splitsko-Dalmatinska Županija, Splitsko-Dalmatinska Zupanija, Split-Dalmatia, Split-Dalmatie, Spalatino-Dalmata, 스플리트달마티아 주, Split-Dalmatien

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