Denmark
South Denmark

Here you’ll find travel reports about South Denmark. Discover travel destinations in Denmark of travelers writing a travel blog on FindPenguins.

195 travelers at this place:

  • Day765

    Mature Beech forest shades the dell we are parked in and we can see the pale blue-grey of Vejle Fjord through the trees. A warm breeze blows crisp, curled leaves from their branches and flurries of them scuttle along the nearby road. At 28° it is far from cool but at least we are protected from direct sunlight.

    This morning we got some shopping in, filled and emptied the van at motorway services then set out in search of tonight's stopover. After refuelling with LPG we are heading north once again. With 2km to go to our destination we turned into a road warning of a 3m height limit. Martha measures 3.58m with the canoe on top. Vicky wasn't keen on continuing but Will persuaded her we should at least take a look and see if it was an arched bridge whose middle we could fit under. Descending a 12% hill we stopped a little way back from the traffic light controlled bridge. It was indeed arched. Pulling over with some difficulty into a layby, Will used his fishing rod to measure the height and when he was certain we could get through, persuaded a beleaguered Vicky to walk backwards under the bridge, directing him through without any scrapes. The woodland parking was almost immediately after this point and while we could hear cars passing on the road and the occasional train on the bridge, we had very few people pull into the oval of gravel we'd chosen as our overnighter.

    When the temperature rises beyond a certain point, we have two very different reactions. Vicky will slow down and do as little as possible and Will seeks water. Vicky therefore stayed with Poppy, watching with bewilderment as troops of cyclists powered up the steep hill and Will took his snorkelling gear to the nearby shore of the Vejle Fjord. The fjord is yet another finger of the Baltic Sea poking into Denmark's East coast. The head of the fjord is a town of the same name, some 20km inland. Will really enjoyed cooling down and investigating the weeds that grew up from the sea bed. Crabs scuttled along and even scaled some of the underwater plant life. Tiny fish darted in and out of cover and one even let Will hold it in the palm of his hand!

    The following day, after savouring the dell's cool air during the morning, we lugged the canoe over the road and down the dirt path to the fjord's narrow sandy shore. Pushing off with the paddles we were amazed at the glassy surface of the water. At points it was like floating over mercury. Even the occasional wake from boats wasn't rippled and it was a somewhat surreal experience to travel through it, without anything by which to guage the waves' height. We took advantage of the calm conditions and canoed over to the other side of the fjord, where Will got out for a swim to cool down. Vicky held on and enjoyed an ice cream when we returned to the van.

    You can watch a video of our paddle on the VnW Travels You Tube channel here: https://youtu.be/qNr-gpaeDD8

    On the third day we ventured out for a walk in the beautiful Beech forest. Strong, old tree trunks reached up to the sky and the sun flooded through the canopy, backlighting the vibrant green leaves. The woodland was managed, but trees had been allowed to fall and lay naturally. Gnarled bracket funghi clung to the dead bark of tall, snapped shafts. You could imagine using them as footholds, like on a fabricated climbing wall. We climbed up to a viewpoint near a hotel, from where we could see a section of the fjord framed by green flora. Taking a path down the hill, we found a few small rasberries to munch on, then a good handfull of ripe blackberries; our first of the season. Once we were back in the depths of the forest, Will was some way ahead when Vicky heard the crackle of branches being snapped underfoot. Looking down the long slope she caught sight of a doe, picking her way through the undergrowth and soon disappearing.

    Carrying on there was heather and low bilberry bushes growing at the side of the path. Looking closely we did manage to find half a dozen shrivelled berries that clearly hadn't fared well in the drought. Approaching a small settlement we did come accross a huge redcurrant bush from which Will foraged a few good handfulls of fruit- yum!

    Dropping back down to sea level we emerged near the bathing place where Vicky dangled her feet off the side of the wooden jetty and Will dived off the end. It wasn't apparent at first, but looking closely, there were hundreds of tiny transparent jellyfish being pulled back and forth by the waves around Vicky's legs. Fortunately they were too small for any stings to affect us.

    Back at the van it was cool enough and we had sufficient LPG for Vicky to heat some water and get stuck into some clothes washing. The pile had grown considerably of late!

    We ended up spending a total of three nights in the forest dell and enjoyed both the shade and the centred feeling this gave us. However, even if the toilet hadn't been full and the batteries low, we felt ready to move on and explore new places by the third morning.
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  • Day823

    Slivsø free campground, Jutland

    September 27 in Denmark

    Today marks the end of 3 weeks island hopping in Denmark and the beginning of our journey to the Netherlands, where we plan to spend October. We've settled ourselves at the car park for Slivsø, a lake on the Danish mainland. There is a playing field behind us which is used by pensioners to play croquet and a free camp ground ahead of us. What looks like a Youth Club is making use of the area and the teenagers are putting on pre rehearsed dance routines for their friends, who reward them with polite rounds of applause. A fire is being stoked next to the wooden sleeping shelter, grey smoke billowing out to the leeward side.

    This morning we left our beach side wild camp, the houses on our journey seeming even more beautiful in the sunshine, their colours complimented by the wildflower strips blooming at the edges of fields. We made use of Midelfart's LPG station, one of only 5 in the country. Will then trekked round 3 supermarkets in search of some Pedigree Senior food for Poppy as she was down to her last few scoops. Getting speciality foods such as this more difficult on the road.

    It is at Midelfart where the Lillebæltsbro links Funen and Jutland so we soon drove over this bridge to the Danish mainland, where we would cross the border to Germany and 600km later enter the Netherlands.

    Arriving at Slivsø, Will took his rods off to the water's edge and fished for a few hours while Vicky had a read in the van. We were a little sad to be on our way out of Denmark but it didn't stop us enjoying where we were at this moment.
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  • Day825

    This summer we spent over 9 weeks touring Denmark. 6 of them were spent on Jutland (the mainland) in July and August, then after a little break we returned for 3 weeks in September to island hop between Funen, Zealand and the smaller islands south of here.

    We hadn't originally planned to spend so much time in Denmark but changes in circumstance led to changes in our plans and we are so glad we got to extend our stay. Having spent a month in the country several years back we knew we liked the place, but having toured Sweden and Norway last summer we feared we may find it rather tame. Instead, as we got to know it better, we found ourselves slowly falling in love with Denmark. In no particular order, here's why:

    🛣 Driving and Roads
    Main roads are smoothly tarmacced and well organised. Drivers are polite, facilities are well signposted and the roads could rarely be described as busy. Many of the more rural places we stayed were down long gravel tracks, but despite the rougher surface, they too were well maintained. The summer drought had the disadvantage of making these very dusty and Martha motorhome was rarely clean. Diesel is a little cheaper than in the UK and motorways are free, although there was a hefty toll of £45 to cross the Storebælt Bridge between Zealand and Funen islands. The ferry from Germany was even more expensive. We almost always found free parking in towns and cities, some of which had dedicated motorhome spaces.

    🚙🛌🚽💧 Vanlife

    Places to stay:
    Wild camping is permitted in Denmark and we found plenty of wonderful free places to stay on the Park4Night app. As such we only payed to stay overnight in 3 places over the 9 weeks. The only difficulty we found was that sleeping was prohibited in some National Parks, but we didn't see signs to tell us this, only finding out when a ranger knocked on our door to let us know (in a very friendly way). As water and nature lovers it was great for us to be able to stay at so many lakeside, seaside and rural parking areas. These would often be beside a free campground, provided for walkers and cyclists to pitch their tents or sleep in the shelter. There are free stellplädz in some towns and harbours will often have paying places for vans. From what we saw, campsites tended to be for caravans.

    Facilities:
    Filling and emptying was free or inclusive. Water was easy to come by and after we got used to the system, we found that many motorway service stations signposted an area where you could empty your toilet and grey water. We did miss the provision of public recycling bins which were few and far between, however litter bins were numerous. One big disadvantage of Denmark is that it only has 5 places that sell LPG. We almost got caught out with this, but were able to find the closest one on the MyLPG.eu app.

    🍎🍞🥗🍩🍺 Food & Drink
    We loved the massive range of organic foods for sale in supermarkets and the homegrown or homemade food on offer at little honesty stalls outside people's houses. Beer was good and cheap at supermarkets and despite the food being more expensive than in the UK, we found it affordable and didn't worry about overspending like when we were in Sweden and Norway. Many harbours sold fresh and smoked fish and offered basic seafood meals at an attached eatery. There were plenty of little bakeries selling tasty loafs of bread and of course, the ubiquitous Danish pastry was always available. We had a few lunches out in cities and went out for drinks. The higher price tags bought food that was good quality and tasty, with an emphasis on local produce, carefully prepared and presented. We would have eaten out more had it mot been for the call of the countryside!

    🌞🌬🌧Weather
    With climate change our idea of 'normal' weather may well alter. This summer has been a lot hotter and drier than we are used to and Denmark experienced very similar weather to the UK, although perhaps a little windier. We loved the easy access to water bodies so we could cool ourselves down.

    🏙🗿🌠🌅🌁🏞Sights
    Denmark has left us with so many beautiful memories. The countryside isn't stunning like Norway, or very different from what we know like Spain was, but it is consistently clean, accessible, uncrowded and pretty, with forests, beaches, lakes, islands and even a few cliffs. The island of Møn is a certified Dark Sky Community and treated us to one of the best, if not the best view of the night sky we've ever had. Despite it being high season, we were able to spend a lot of time with nobody else around and encountered wildlife such as hares, birds of prey, dolphins and harbour porpoises. Funnily enough the seals we saw seemed to be drawn to people, such as the one at Skagen (see the video here:https://youtu.be/zDoOwXIv6ZI). There are art installations like the Dodekalitten standing stones (see video here: https://youtu.be/YX6EAdYbjzk) and history to explore such as the ancient burial mound we crawled inside at Klekkende Høj. Denmark's buildings are well maintained and while the quaint thatched country cottages melted our hearts, the modern city architecture was varied and beautiful.

    💷💶💱 Cost
    The cost of living in Denmark is higher than in the UK, but lower than in Sweden and Norway. This being said, we actually ended up spending less than we do on average. Let's break it down: we spent more on supermarket food but less on restaurants and cafés because we were so often camped in a rural spot. The overnight stays we payed for were usually 100-150kr (£12-18) for a car park with facilities close to a town, but we did so much wild camping we ended up saving. Entrance prices to attractions were higher than we were used to but we naturally engaged in so many free activities that we felt we could afford the cost on the occasions we drawn to something in particular.

    🚴‍♀️🎣 🚶‍♂️🏄‍♂️🏊‍♀️ 🛶
    Activities

    Cycling and Walking:
    With the highest natural point in Denmark standing at 170m you'll not be surprised to hear that the majority of the country is flat, making cycling and walking from place to place easy. Combined with one of the most, if not the most extensive network of excellent quality cycle tracks we've ever seen, this makes Denmark a great place to get around on foot or by bike in towns or the countryside. Drivers are cautious and courteous towards cyclists, probably because so many of them cycle themselves.

    Watersports:
    We can't count the number of times we (especially Will) swam in a lake, fjord or the sea. The Danes love their swimmimg and there were so many signs pointing you to the nearest bathing place where there was frequently a low pier with steps into the water. Countries like Germany provide numerous freibads (outdoor swimming pools) and these do exist in Denmark but it is far more common to find free facilties at a wild swimming spot. Will spent hours snorkelling, we canoed (see the Velje Fjord video here: https://youtu.be/qNr-gpaeDD8) and he bought a national fishing licence online for £15 which he got his money's worth out of in terms of time.

    Other activities:
    Denmark has no shortage of galleries (particularly ceramic) and museums. We visited two Viking museums which were both very good, hands on places. We even had a go at crewing a traditional boat at Roskilde's Viking Ship museum! (See the video here: https://youtu.be/UxPB_yiBbaE)

    🙋‍♀️🙋‍♂️ People and culture
    Part of the thrill of touring is to put yourself into situations with which you are unfamiliar and to some extent, challenge yourself with places that sometimes feel uncomfortable. Denmark certainly thrilled us, but we can honestly say that we were never made to feel uncomfortable there. Citizens on the whole seem very happy and we didn't knowingly see any homeless people the entire time we were there. Locals were very friendly, helpful, respectful and engaging without overstepping the mark. We were flabbergasted by how good the average level of English was and how many people spoke it. The Danish are big on their fresh food and we loved the harbourside fishmongers and honesty stalls selling fruit, veg and homemade produce. We rarely went for very long without seeing a sign for 'Loppemarked' or 'Antik', showing how much the Danes love their preloved goods. Perhaps these signs stood out more because the advertising in Denmark is low key. Like in almost every other country we've been to, there were McDonalds but we would come accross one by chance, instead of having its presence shoved down our throats from many kilometres away by huge billboards. You are given space to consider things in your own time and this was a wonderful detox for us. Although a great many visitors flocked to Denmark over the summer, there were very few situations where it felt crowded. The country charges a 25% VAT, but it invests its public funds in facilities for the public, which proliferate. If there are too many people at one swimming area, then you can often just travel down the road to the next one.

    For all these reasons Denmark has slowly risen past the more beautiful countries, the cheaper countries and the more exotic countries to take pride of place as our favourite country out of the 15 we've toured over the last 2 years and 3 months. We rarely agree on a favourite, but Denmark has worked its subtle magic to win us both over!
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  • Day764

    Nye Lillebæltsbro

    July 30 in Denmark

    The regular brrp brrp brrp of vehicles passing over metal joins punctuates the constant hum of engines and rubber on tarmac. We are parked close to one of the 120m high stanchions of the Nye Lillebæltsbro, a suspension bridge spanning the straits between mainland Denmark and the large island of Funen. Its name translates as New Little Belt Bridge, the 'Little Belt' being the 600m stretch of water between Snoghøj (where we are) and Midelfart on Funen. We don't mind the noise because it is a pretty impressive sight. The road even has heating so it can be kept free of ice and snow in winter! Not that it is needed today, the hottest of our trip so far at 31.8°C.

    This morning we set off from Mossø and blasted down the motorway; the Midelfart LPG station our first port of call. When we discovered 4 days ago that there were only 5 LPG vendors in Denmark, Midelfart was the closest town to sell it. As part of this mission for gas we got to make the exciting journey accross the bridge to Funen. We soon found the station and sighed with relief when we saw that it did indeed have what we needed! We had a slight moment of worry when we'd attached the nozel and pressed the button but no gas flowed. A quick word with the attendant and we had sufficient LPG to fuel the fridge, freezer, hob, oven and hot water for another month! We'd had enough to last us perhaps another week, but we fret when we are running low on anything so it was worth making the journey to fill up.

    Having noticed a small retail park nearby we dropped into the Jem & Fix shop (the Danish equivalent of Wickes), to try and find a new cover for the oven flue among other things. No luck this time but we'll try a caravan shop next. If we can't find one over here we'll have to order it online for when we return to the UK.

    Travelling back over the Little Belt Bridge at 44m above sea level, we took the access road that swung round and dropped down to a large grass and gravel parking area by the shore. It was busy, with small speedboats, rigid inflatables and fishing vessels coming and going, using the launch ramp to join the large yachts, many from Germany, that sailed in between the stanchions. Mixed in with these were a few traditional sailing boats and a black, wooden hulled tourist vessel, loaded up with successive sight seeing parties. Although the channel was big enough, we only saw one cargo ship pass by.

    It was too hot to do much, so Will spent the afternoon fishing and swimming while Vicky stayed with Poppy. The site was on the inner curve of a U bend in the straights, so water surrounded the land on three sides. The tidal current pushed the sea first in one direction, then in the other and the little boats not under power drifted with its not inconsiderable pull. Although Will didn't catch any fish, we reckoned it would be a good spot and in the evening we caught sight of what we think was a sea otter diving under several times in search of its next meal.

    The following morning Vicky took a walk along the narrow beach where a mass of colourless jellyfish had been washed up. It was less busy than it had been the previous day and she got to see the fin of a harbour porpoise as it surfaced for air!
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  • Day820

    Martha motorhome is parked up at motorway services on the eastern shore of Funen Island looking back at the incredible Storebæltsbroen; the Great Belt Bridge that brought us accross the water from Zealand.

    The 18km road bridge has been in operation for 20 years and the railway that runs through a tunnel, then alongside the traffic on the west bridge, opened a year earlier in 1997. It comprises the East Bridge at nearly 7km long, spanning the straits between Zealand and the little mid channel island of Sprogø. This is a suspension bridge whose pylons, at 254m, are one of the highest points in Denmark. As part of the construction, Sprogø Island was extended to approximately 4 times its original size and links the East and West Bridges. The latter is 6.6km long and runs lower to the water.

    We travelled over the Storebælt in the opposite direction on our way to Sweden last summer so we were prepared for the 365kr (£45) toll. The wind was strong and had made driving difficult on the motorway, never mind on the bridge! After a warning from the toll booth attendant we ventured out carefully onto the East Bridge, with Will keeping a steady hold on the wheel. There was an 80kmph limit due to the conditions, but we travelled more slowly, watching nervously as the caravan ahead of us was buffeted by the gusts, its net curtains swinging from side to side. We were right to be worried, between the two pylons, a van trailer had been blown over and was hanging off the towbar at an alarming angle, blocking the inner lane and looking as if it may well topple into the outer! Soon after we'd reached Funen, the bridge was closed in our direction because of this accident; a rare occurrence.

    Arriving at the services we found a spot within sight of the West Bridge with a large grassed area ahead and the old port to our right. It looked as if this had been the place that cars boarded ferries to sail to Zealand, but the completion of the bridge rendered the boats obsolete and the infrastructure had been abandoned, falling into disrepair over the years.

    Throughout the day Will had several short fishing sessions and we both took a walk up to the harbour entrance, from where you could see both sections of the structure. What a feat of engineering! There was also a path leading underneath the bridge, where there was nobody to stop you scrambling up the wall of boulders that protected the land from erosion. From the top of the wall you could see between the concrete stanchions for a long way until the bridge curved round to the north. The wind had whipped the waves up, skimming spray off their crests making it a dramatic sight.

    At sunset we returned to this spot and watched as the clouds coloured with the amber light. Poppy once again woke Vicky before sunrise and like a magnet, the boulders at the base of the bridge pulled her back to watch the sun come up. Enjoy the pics!
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  • Day821

    Odense and its Friluftsbad

    September 25 in Denmark

    The seasons are turning and the Friluftsbad (outdoor swimming pool) at Odense has come to the end of its season. We are calling its grassy car park home for the night and its closure means we are the only ones here. A train occasionally rattles along the adjacent line and a few cars come and go but otherwise we are undisturbed.

    We spent the earlier part of the day doing a walking tour of Odense, the main town on Funen. It is situated centrally on the island and we'd passed by several times, on the way to or back from Sweden. We thought of it as just a regular urban area on the way to somewhere else but The Lonely Planet had printed a map with a 1.5km route and a brief description of the highlights so we thought we'd give it a go.

    There were extensive roadworks as we drove in but Will found street parking with relative ease. Vicky was in charge of navigation today and led the way towards the start of the route. As we passed the waste to energy plant with its topless sunbathing workers we got the impression this wasn't an area high on the 'must see' list at the tourist board. We did however like the giraffe print on the plant's chimney. As we passed a tall sandstone brick wall, Will joked that Vicky was taking him past the prison, until we saw the 'Odense Aresthus' sign...

    Moving swiftly on we crossed the little river marking the beginning of the tourist trail. Colourful old terraced cottages lined cobbled lanes, one of which was the poorhouse school where Hans Christian Andersen studied. He was born in Odense in 1805 so naturally the town had made the most of this claim to fame.

    Next to draw our attention was Kramboden; a timber framed antique shop that also sold traditional items such as handwoven wicker baskets, to supplement the preloved goods. It was a little treasure trove, its shelves lined with wooden and tarnished metal curiosities and its ceiling strung with items to catch the eye, such as polished brass gas lamps.

    Cutting up an alley, the tour took us past a couple of discrete wooden doors, painted dark green with a small oval sign inviting you to 'Kig Ind' or 'Look Inside'. Will opened one tentatively because it felt like we were about to step inside someone's living room and in fact this feeling wasn't far off the mark. Within the two almshouses we found rooms furnished in the style of the 17th century. An uncomfortable looking bed, a cast iron stove and front room decorated with doilys and handmade net curtains.

    From here the streets opened up and we cut accross a square with Hans Christian Andersen inspired bronze statues. Do you see a theme emerging here...? Passing by Hans Christian Andersen's old house we cut accross the parkland grounds of Odense Slot; a monastery, turned palace, turned council offices. Despite its size, this large red earth building wasn't particularly striking.

    At this point we took a break from the tour and made a beeline for Café Kosmos, an organic vegan eatery. We'd been a bit put off vegan places when we visited one in northern Spain whose food was seriously lacking. Our faith was happily restored with a chilled out vibe, table games and a limited menu that focussed on burgers, wraps and salads. The Kosmos and Mex burgers we ordered with sauteed potatoes were flavourful and filling and we left happy.

    A muscular nude statue reclining in the town square was next on the itinerary. Let's just say we thought the stately town hall was far more deserving of our attention! Our final stop was the gothic Odense Cathedral, brick built and conservative on the outside, inside its nave was lined with graceful white pillars reaching up to arch together in the tall vaulted ceiling. It had a light, airy feel with a striking altar made of many sculpted golden figures.

    We rarely do official tours, often preferring to go where our whim takes us. However the Odense tour was compact and could be done at our own pace. For most of it there were footprints on the ground to show us the way and we enjoyed seeing sights we wouldn't otherwise have seen, not in the least the 17th century almshouses, hidden away up a side alley. The tour turned our initial opinion of Odense on its head, leaving us with the impression of a characterful town, full of history and quaint cottages.
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  • Day822

    Weddelsborg strand & Faaborg

    September 26 in Denmark

    It is our last night on Funen and this island is the last we'll visit in Denmark (on this trip at least). From our grassy car park at Weddelsborg beach there isn't a house in sight, which suits us down to the ground. A thin strip of sand is strewn with brown weed and a small wooden swimming platform jerks up and down in the rough surf. Apart from a little red camper van with a French registration plate, we are the only ones here. A brand new compost loo has been installed where the beach and grass meet and it is pristine. What's even better is that it has a seperate chute for emptying casette toilets, making us feel very welcome.

    This morning we had a brief visit to Faaborg, a port town on Funen's southern shore. It provided 1 hour's free parking for vans on the harbourside so we hopped out for a quick tour. There were a mix of buildings, smooth modern walls rubbing up alongside slightly crooked timber framed cottages and brick built townhouses with feature gables. In the main square stood a statue cast in bronze that was one of the most bizarre we've ever seen outside a gallery. One nude man lay, suckling on a cow, while the she licked the head of another man curled on his back. It was thought provoking to say the least!

    Upon researching it, we found the statue to be called Ymer's Well and based on the Norse creation story. The suckling man was in fact the ice giant Ymer, feeding from the giant cow Audhumla who, by licking a block of salty ice over the course of three days, creates Buri the first of the gods.

    After a mooch around the Red Cross shop, where Will bought a replacement espresso cup, we searched the highstreet to see if we could find anywhere that sold takeaway smørrebrød (open sandwiches). Being unsuccessful and our 1 hour nearly up, we drove on to a woodland layby for lunch.

    It wasn't much further to Weddelsborg Strand, but it did require us to drive along a 2km gravel track. The weather was windy and wet but over the course of the afternoon a local came along for a swim. Not to be outdone, Will went for a quick dip too, although now the temperatures have started to drop, it wasn't as pleasant as the wild swims we enjoyed in the height of summer.

    There are some beautifully bright sunny days here in Denmark, but like England, when the grey clouds cover the sky, the lack of light can feel oppressive. Nonetheless we enjoyed our last day on Funen, snug and warm in the van, looking out over the water as cormorants and gulls perched atop the stakes used to secure fishing nets.
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  • Day824

    Sønderhav, last day in Denmark

    September 28 in Denmark

    Sønderhav is a small town on the Danish shore of Flensborg Fjord. We are close to the border with Germany and this will be our last night in Denmark for a while. We are parked off a dead end road beside a small beach. A couple of little islands shield us from the main channel, where huge ships occasionally sail on their passage to, or away from the city of Flensborg at the head of the fjord. The islands somehow make the place feel more intimate and rural and the birdlife certainly enjoys the shelter they provide. Flocks of little brown birds flit between low clumps of reeds and gulls populate the shallow waters close to shore, perching on the cute wooden fishing boats big enough for two.

    A few other vans have chosen to spend the night here and people wander along the waterside, taking in the views on this sunny September day. We didn't drive far today so arrived before lunch. Will went out for a fish and got talking to a French person who had just spent 7 months in Norway in their little campervan.

    After eating, Vicky helped him get the canoe down. She wasn't feeling up to paddling, so sat on a wooden bench and knitted until Poppy got tired and wanted to go back to the van (it didn't take too long). Will canoed to his heart's content, up and down the bay then around the islands. The water was so calm and clear you could see a long way down. He went swimming off one of the islands then ended up the day's activities by diving off the low wooden pier close to the van. He certainly made the most of his last day in Denmark. As has become traditional for us when moving on to a new country, we enjoyed one of Will's homemade pizza's and equally delicious garlic bread for tea. Outside the van there is a different view almost every day, but inside we like to stick with routines such as this one!
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  • Day23

    Hans Christian Andersen

    June 26 in Denmark

    The Hotel Royal, Gothenburg offered a delicious breakfast, including several varieties of my favourite pickled herring - tasty. I made my way to the Stena ferry terminal to catch the 08.00 ferry to Frederikshavn in Denmark. The ferry was very busy and the ship well equipped with facilities including a discount store and duty free shops. I tried out a liberal spray of the Dolce and Gabbana eau de toilette spray, only to discover it was the ladies version. Well hello, honky tonk!

    It was a cooler, cloudy morning and the first time I’ve had to use my zipper, but the sun came out during the 3 hours 15 minute crossing to the top of Denmark. I caught the connecting 11.33 train to Odense. I couldn’t be in Denmark and not visit the birthplace of Hans Christian Andersen could I? Again I was glad to have a place in 1st Class. The stewardess brought a flask of hot water and left it for us with a variety of coffee and teas (even green tea, Anne), and delicious violet flavoured chocolate marzipans. You don’t get that on ScotRail.

    In the warm evening sunshine I had a lovely walk around the old town and a delicious steak dinner with a large glass of Merlot. Denmark, like the rest of Scandinavia, is certainly not cheap. As I walked back to my hotel I spotted a sign saying ‘Pee not here’. How did they know I was about to?

    Odense really is Hans Christian Andersen town. With a dedicated museum, his birthplace and his childhood home all there to visit, I really enjoyed this charming town on the island of Funen, bang right in the middle of Denmark. It brought back happy memories of being in the show Hans Andersen with the Apollo Players at the King’s Theatre, Glasgow in 1987 - can you believe it was 31 years ago! John Sinclair was Hans, Jim French was Otto, Jane Macdonald (Waterfield) was Jenny Lind and I was Max Claus. My niece Jennifer appeared as one of the children singing Thumbelina. Happy days.

    The lady in the birthplace museum was delighted to hear I was from Scotland. She smiled and recalled how she had had a happy school camping trip there in the 1970s. ‘We stayed at the beautiful village of Luss’ she explained ‘and every day I would stare at the lake, but I never did see her. I never saw my Nessie.’ I hadn’t the heart to tell her that that would be hard as she was at Loch Lomond.

    Well time for the off again and continue my train travels down through Denmark and then via Hamburg, Germany to Cologne. It’s been nice, Odense - thanks for all those lovely reminders of these great fairy tales.
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  • Day740

    Ribe Viking Centre

    July 6 in Denmark

    A few kilometres away from Ribe's motorhome park was Ribe Viking Centre. Now, museums don't usually draw us in, but this one seemed to be the Danish equivalent of The Black Country Museum or Beamish, so we thought we'd give it a go. Hopping on the tandem, we soon pulled into the bike park at this open air site.

    First on the route was Hviding Manor, a reconstruction of a 34m longhouse. Stepping into the dark, it took a while for our eyes to become accustomed but when they did we saw people in period dress, peeling and cutting veg for the pot, which hung ready over an open fire. The benches were lined with animal hides, and painted shields and tapestries hung from the walls. A whole village, including church, harbour, farm, blacksmith and market had been created and there were enough staff dressed as Vikings to allow your imagination to stretch to what life must have been like back then. Real food was used, real wool was spun and real metal was heated and shaped. With the summer holidays already underway in Denmark, the kids of employees had even been enlisted to dress up and put on a show, playing games with sticks, ropes and leather bags, not a mobile phone in sight!

    We ourselves were encouraged to sit and play the Viking equivalent of naughts and crosses, using a wooden board with draughts pieces made from pale and dark horn. Outside we were introduced to catching and throwing games. Everybody we spoke to knew English and the fact that so much of our experience was hands on meant we really enjoyed our time, losing ourselves in yesteryear! At 130kr (£16) each, the entrance fee was more than we were used to paying for attractions but it was most definitely worth it.

    You can watch a 3 minute video of our experiences here on the VnW Travels You Tube Channel: https://youtu.be/u6kzz9Dnl60
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You might also know this place by the following names:

Region Syddanmark, South Denmark, محافظة سيد دنمارك, Паўднёвая Данія, Южна Дания, Danmark ar Su, Dinamarca Meridional, Къилба Дани, Syddanmark, Περιφέρεια Νότιας Δανίας, Regiono Suda Danio, Lõuna-Taani piirkond, Hegoaldeko Danimarka, استان سیددانمارک, Etelä-Tanskan alue, Región Suðurdanmark, Danemark-du-Sud, Regiuun Syddanmark, Súd-Denemark, Južna Danska, Syddanmark régió, Հարավային Դանիա տարածաշրջան, Danimarca meridionale, 南デンマーク地域, სამხრეთ დანიის რეგიონი, Оңтүстік Дания, 남덴마크 지역, Dania Meridiana, Pietų Danijos regionas, Dienviddānijas reģions, Јужна Данска, Wilayah Syddanmark, Region Süüddäänmark, Zuid-Denemarken, Danemarc Meridional, Хуссар Дани, Dania Południowa, Dinamarca do Sul, Regiunea Syddanmark, Южная Дания, Region o Soothren Denmark, Syddanmark regiuvdna, Južné Dánsko, Південна Данія, جنوبی ڈنمارک علاقہ, Nam Đan Mạch, 南丹麦大区

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