Egypt
Alexandria

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    • Catacombs of Kom El-Shouqafa

      January 7, 2023 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      The Catacombs that we visited today were just a little east of Alexandria but right in the middle of a residential area.The cemetery dates back to the 1st century A.D. and was used until the 4th century A.D. It was discovered in 1900 when, by pure chance, a donkey-drawn cart fell into a pit, and that led to their discovery. 

      These catacombs, also known as Kom el-Shoqafa or “mound of shards’’ in Arabic, are one of the seven wonders of the medieval world.

      A winding staircase of 99 steps goes around a central shaft and takes you to the catacombs and the tombs that are arranged on three levels.
      Bodies of the deceased were lowered down the shaft by means of ropes, to prevent any damages to them

      The staircase leads to a vestibule with two niches on both sides. The top of each niche is in the shape of a shell, while the bottom part contains a half round bench, cut into the rock, I assume a place to rest after descending the stairs of the tomb.

      The lowest level is flooded by groundwater so we couldn't go down to it but we were free to explore the first 2 levels. They were pretty dark and the air was damp and musty. It was kind of like going into a haunted house... eerie.

      On the first level, there was a vestibule and a rotunda. A passage lead to the triclinium - a large hall, in which there were stone benches along three walls. I guess that funeral services were organized in this room and meals eaten. At the end of the feast, all the utensils that were used were shattered because it was believed that it was bad luck to re-use the utensils used at the funeral. Tons of pottery scattered around the area gave the place its contemporary name - Kom El-Shoqfa, which means "hill of shards".

      I learned a new word today - luculi. These are grooves cut in the rock, where coffins are stored. There were lots of these down there but no coffins. Everything has been moved to a museum somewhere, I think.

      While Egypt's most famous history dates back to the time of the Pharaohs, its history didn't stop there. Egypt was also part of the Greek and Roman empires for hundreds of years. The structure of the catacombs, the way their niches are ordered, the sarcophagi and the decora­tions on the walls, show a blend of influences from the an­cient Egyptian, Greek and Roman civilisations. And that's what makes these catacombs so special.
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    • Daytrip to Alexandria

      January 7, 2023 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      We are winding down and preparing to go home after an amazing month in Egypt. Our original plan included a tentative day trip to Alexandria. We weren’t sure if we would have the energy and time to add this trip in but we had a day that we could do it in, and we are here, so we did it.

      The hostel arranged for a driver to pick us up and chauffeur us around for 10 hours. Alexandria is a good 3 hour drive away. It cost us around $100, but where else can you get a good private driver for that length of time? We opted out of a guide. Between our Lonely Planet Guidebook and the internet, we were fine.

      Alexandria is a Mediterranean port city in Egypt. It was founded in 331 B.C. by Alexander the Great and grew rapidly. It eventually became the capital of Egypt until 642 AD.

      It is best known for the huge Lighthouse of Pharos, one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World; it’s Great Library, the largest and most significant library of the ancient world; and the Necropolis, on of the Seven Wonders of the Middle Ages.

      Our plan was to see:
      - the Catacombs of Kom El-Shouqafa
      - Bombay's Pillar in the Necropolis
      - the Citadel of Qaitbay
      - the huge Mosque built in 1775
      - the new Library of Alexandria
      - the 10 mile long corniche or waterfront promenade

      We left at 7 a.m., picked up a couple of Costa real coffees and were on our way but … the driver Hussein wanted to treat us to some breakfast falafels and water so we stopped at his brother’s shop to pick them up. Now we were in our way.

      The traffic in Cairo is sparse at 7 a.m. so we made great time getting out of this big city, 45 minutes. The highway looks new and we just zipped along. There wasn’t a lot to see, farmland and some new ‘subdivisions’. Shortly after 10 a.m., we arrived in Alexandria and headed for the catacombs.
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    • Citadel of Qaitbey

      January 7, 2023 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      After being in two dark and somber, yet wondrous, cavelike places it was really nice to visit the restored picturesque Fort of Qaitbay at the eastern side of the harbour

      It was erected on the exact site of the famous Lighthouse of Alexandria, which was one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. The lighthouse continued to function until the time of the Arab conquest. Then, several disasters occurred and the shape of the lighthouse was changed to some extent, but it still continued to function.

      During the 11th century an earthquake occurred, causing damage to the octagonal part of the lighthouse. The bottom survived and it became a watchtower. Later a small mosque was built on the top. In the 14th century there was a very destructive earthquake and the whole building was completely destroyed. In 1840, a very strategic Mediterranean fort was erected over the old foundations.

      The largest stones of the citadel, forming the lintel and doorway of its entrance, as well as the red granite columns in the mosque within the walls, were probably salvaged from the huge tower that once stood here.

      It is a lovely, bright building with wonderful views over the bay.
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    • Day 22

      A day trip to Alexandria

      January 11, 2023 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

      We didn't want to miss Alexandria on our trip around Egypt so we booked a private tour on one of the free days we had in Cairo. Romani organised it for us and, once again, Ray was our guide. I say guide, but perhaps that should be 'escort' or 'chaperone' because he is proving to be less and less able as a guide every time we go out with him! 😂

      We set off at 7.30am because Ray said it would take 3 hours to get to Alexandria. In the event, the freeway was clear and we did the journey in only 2!

      Alexandria is Egypt's second city with a population of around 16 million compared to Cairo with 25 million. It is located on the Mediterranean coast and is a popular tourist resort for visitors from the rest of Egypt 🇪🇬 and overseas.

      The city is named after Alexander the Great who founded it in 331 BC when he was just 25 years old. Alexandria's towering Pharos lighthouse, marking the ancient harbour's entrance, was one of the Seven Wonders of the World. It's Great Library with its 750,000 books and manuscripts, was considered the archive of ancient knowledge. However, the city suffered a number of disasters. The Pharos collapsed and the Great Library burnt to the ground. Part of the ancient city disappeared under the sea and part under the modern city, so there are few visible remains of the glorious part.

      Nevertheless, Alexandria is still well worth a visit - we thoroughly enjoyed our time here.
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    • Day 22

      The Catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa

      January 11, 2023 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Our first stop in Alexandria was at the catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa.

      These were discovered in 1900 when a donkey pulling a cart full of scrap metal disappeared into the ground! They are the largest known Roman burial site in Egypt, consisting of three tiers of tombs and chambers cut into bedrock to a depth of 35 metres.

      Entry to the catacombs is via a spiral staircase. Bodies would have been lowered on ropes down the centre of this circular shaft. The catacombs were originally constructed in the second century AD, probably by a rich Roman family and intended for their sole use. They would have had the principle tomb chamber decorated in a fusion of Greek and Pharaonic styles, and the triclinium, a banqueting hall where grieving relatives paid their last respects with a funeral feast.

      Over the next 300 years, the catacombs were used by other families, including Christians and Muslims. More chambers were hacked out until the place became a warren holding 300 corpses.

      Today, the lower tier of the catacombs lies below the water table. Between 500 and 600 square metres of water has to be pumped out every hour in order to keep them accessible.

      When the catacombs were discovered, the skeletons were removed and reburied elsewhere. The only bones remaining in the tombs today are those of a horse belonging to one of the dead Romans. Ray was quite shocked when I told him that the catacombs in Paris are still full of human remains!
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    • Day 22

      A visit to the Bibliotheca Alexandrina

      January 11, 2023 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

      After the catacombs, we visited the Bibliotheca Alexandria, a building opened in 2002 on the site of the city's ancient library.

      We had a guided tour of the stunning building which was designed by a firm of Norwegian architects. It takes the form of a massive angled disc embedded in the ground to represent the rising sun. The roof is made up of solar panels. The granite exterior walls are inscribed with letters, pictograms, hieroglyphs, and symbols from over 120 languages.

      Inside, the incredible main reading 📚 room can accommodate 8 million books (there are currently 2 million in the collection) and 2500 readers, each with their own work station. The sloping roof has windows specially designed to let sunlight flood in but keep out rays that could damage the books. The space is amazing! It felt really conducive to creativity. It made me want to move to Alexandria and get started on that book I've always wanted to write ✍ 😂. Foreigners can join the library and have access to all the facilities for just 10 EGP a year - that's about £3.30!!

      The library has eleven floors, some of them below water level. The basement houses four permanent museums and a range of temporary exhibitions. We enjoyed a contemporary ceramics display and a glorious collection of textiles and folk art.

      There is also the fascinating Anwar Sadat museum. Here, I was reminded of the news stories of my teenage years. The collection includes the blood stained uniform he was wearing when he was assassinated and the front page of the Daily Mirror when the story broke.

      The World of Shadi Abdel Salam was another interesting exhibition. He was an Alexandria-born film director, script writer, set and costume designer who, amongst other things, created all the costumes and sets for Cleopatra which we saw at the Atlas Film Studios in Morocco 🇲🇦.

      Outside, there is a striking sphere-shaped planetarium.

      I could have spent much longer here than the two hours we were allowed!
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    • Day 22

      Citadel of Qaitbay

      January 11, 2023 in Egypt ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

      Our final stop on our day in Alexandria was at the Citadel of Qaitbay. This impressive fortification was built in 1480 by the Mamluk sultan Qaitbay on the site of the remains of the legendary Pharos lighthouse. He used stone and other materials from the fallen lighthouse in the construction.

      The citadel has been extensively restored in recent times. Some would say it has been over-restored! First impressions as you approach the fort today is that it is a completely new construction. Nevertheless, it is impressive and definitely worth an hour or two of your time if you're in Alexandria.

      After our visit, we drove into the city centre where we stopped for Ray to buy us all schwarma. We weren't really hungry but it was included in the price of our tour! He came back with large tubs of 'schwarma fata', a local speciality consisting of beef or chicken topped with creamy garlic sauce on a bed of fried rice and crispy fried bread. It was too much for me. Our driver didn't seem that impressed, either! 😂

      We were back at the hotel by 5.30pm, in plenty of time for a final buffet dinner. Mark wasn't impressed because the price of a beer has increased by £2 a can overnight! It makes it £7 now!! Time to move on 😂
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    • Day 19

      Cairo Day 4

      May 22, 2023 in Egypt ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

      Today was an early start. We were doing a day trip to Alexandria, and the bus picked us up from our hotel at 6:45am. Unfortunately Sam wasn’t feeling well so he decided to stay home, but the rest of us were bundled into the bus and taken on the long drive to the coast. It took about three hours, and on arrival we were met by our tour guide for the day. We were a little hesitant after our experience at the pyramids but he turned out to be really great. Our first stop was the new library of Alexandria which is a massive, modern building with a huge collection of books. 8 million to be precise. We then went to a few different historical sites — the catacombs, the Roman amphitheatre (where they are still digging in hope of finding Alexander the Great’s tomb), the location of the old lighthouse of Alexandria, and then a trio of mosques. The day ended with a seafood lunch at a restaurant called the Fish Market, which was another really nice meal. Amy and Tegan were asked to have their photos taken on the pier and more times throughout the day. Steve had a kid pestering to buy a balloon. He was absolutely relentless. This was the only form of harassment we received.

      The day really made us realise how poor our previous tour had been, and how much we were ripped off, but no one really minded too much — it was still a great day.

      We then jumped in the car for the drive home and everyone fell asleep for a while. It was around 7pm when we got in, and the plan was to head to the markets, but after we called the airline to change our flight from 4:35am to 5:55pm the next day everyone was happy to hang out by the hotel pool and have a relaxed evening.

      It’s been so nice to catch up with friends and explore a place like Cairo. It’s so different to what we both thought it would be like. Being in a big group means people don’t pester us too much, and it obviously helps a lot that Christina speaks Arabic. Cairo is hard to describe - there are so many tall, rundown buildings, some that are empty. The roads are insane with no rules and I assume no car insurance. There seems to be a car horn language with beeps meaning many different things. There are people everywhere!
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    • Day 20

      JOUR 20 : ALEXANDRIE

      October 29, 2023 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

      JOUR 20 : 7h de bus de nuit nous ont amené à notre dernière destination : Alexandrie.

      Cette ville gorgée d’histoire, a accueillit autrefois le célèbre phare d’Alexandrie, qui était l’une des septs merveilles du monde antique avant sa destruction.

      Bonus : je me suis balade le soir dans des quartiers très pauvre, et me suis retrouvé dans des situations plus qu’inédites : attroupement d’une trentaine d’enfant autour de moi, le suivant dans les rues, pour prendre de so joris et autographe avec moi (c’est pas si agréable que ça en a l’air). Et le retour à été tout aussi compliqué à travers tous les gens qui pouvaient m’arrêter dans la rue, pour toucher mes cheveux, mes tatouages. C’était délirant.
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    • Day 21

      JOUR 21 : ALEXANDRIE

      October 30, 2023 in Egypt ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      JOUR 21 : Dernier jour en Égypte avant de repartir le lendemain via l’aéroport de Gizeh.

      Nous avons profité de la ville une dernière fois à travers sa très populaire bibliothèque, où nous avons passé la majeur partie de notre journée. Puis, le soir, nous avons simplement marché le long du port et fait des rencontres agréable.Read more

    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Muḩāfaz̧at al Iskandarīyah, Muhafazat al Iskandariyah, Alexandria, اسكندرية, Alexandría

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