Ethiopia
Bahir Dar

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    • Day 64

      48. ETH: Bahir Dar - Blue Nile Falls

      July 10, 2023 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

      Our tour guide for the drive through Ethiopia was Dagi, and our driver, Yonnis. They picked us up in Addis & we headed off to Bahir Dar.

      The Blue Nile Falls is a key tourist attraction in this part of Ethiopia. It is known as Tis Abay in Amharic, meaning 'Smoke Abay'.

      The river's path takes it to Khartoum, Sudan, where it joins the White Nile (which originates in Uganda, as you saw in my last post). Collectively the 2 rivers are the primary source of the Nile River, which also flows through Egypt, ultimately emptying into the Mediterranean Sea. The construction of a much-needed hydroelectric dam upstream (the river flows north, so upstream is south, in Ethiopia) has reduced the flow of the falls, but the real issue lies in Egypt, where the many people relying on the Nile are affected by the reduction in flow.

      Although puny in comparison to Victoria Falls in Tanzania, I enjoyed this experience more. The Nile Falls were located in a remote, lush green area surrounded by local farmland. It gave me the feeling of enjoying a special place in nature, as opposed to joining the herd at a tourist attraction.

      Food update: We got introduced to injera, a thin pancake made from local teff flour, which is topped in the center with your choice of food. You eat the dish with your hands, tearing off a piece of the pancake, and using it to pick up and eat your topping. Its a bit messy as the pancake becomes soggy, but its a traditional practice for Ethiopians to eat with their hands. Not my cup of tea, but I'm glad i tried it.
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    • Day 4

      Kulturschock Afrika

      November 9, 2019 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

      Heute besuchen wir den Blauen Nil Wasserfall . Auf den Weg dorthin erleben wir das Leben der Äthiopier hautnah. Es ist so faszinierend und unglaublich beeindruckend. Man hat das Gefühl in einer anderen Welt zu sein. Wie diese Menschen leben, in völliger Armut und im Einklang mit der Natur, erstaunt mich ungemein. Die Landschaft ist so wunderschön, man kann sich gar nicht satt sehen. Ich bin völlig geflasht und sprachlos!Read more

    • Day 3

      Lac Tana

      January 8, 2020 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C

      Les rives du vaste lac Tana abritent des petits monastères qu'on va visiter en bateau. Assez sommaires, ils renferment des peintures représentant des scènes bibliques dans un style naïf et coloré. A Entos Eyesu, l'une d'entre elles représente le Diable, mais le prêtre la cache derrière une planche - on ne sait jamais. Pas de bol pour nous, certains des monastères sont fermés pour la messe, mais c'est aussi l'occasion de voir les fidèles complètement absorbés dans leurs prières. Alors on les laisse tranquilles pour aller voir une invention éthiopienne, le "bar-musée". Le concept : on s'accoude au comptoir d'une petite cahute où sont entreposés croix, encensoirs, tambours, manuscrits et autres objets religieux. Le prêtre, derrière le comptoir, passe en revue chacun de ses petits trésors. Fallait y penser.

      Au retour, là où démarre le Nil Bleu on peut observer deux beaux hippopotames qui sortent la tête de l'eau en agitant les oreilles.

      Bahir Dar est plus agréable que Addis Abeba. Grosse pizza "tikawé" en regardant les tuks tuks (bajaj) passer et on rentre.
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    • Day 62

      47. Ethiopia: Addis Ababa

      July 8, 2023 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

      Our flight from Nairobi Kenya to Addis Ababa Ethiopia went smoothly. Of course, Craig had us at the airport so early that we beat the Ethiopian Airlines staff there, and had to wait for them to set up. Haha.

      Upon arrival in AA, after a 15 minute delay chatting with a guy at the airport who we thought was our shuttle driver (but who turned out to be just a guy wanting to change money for us), we made our way to our hotel. Arriving around 9:30P, they seemed unaware of our reservation, but my "boy scout" travelling partner had ALL the paperwork, and the confusion was quickly dispelled.

      Our Africa experience now changes, from an animal focus, to a cultural focus. Our one day in Addis gave us time for a visit to a museum and to the markets.

      The Ethnological Museum is situated on the campus of Addis Ababa University, in the former palace of Emperor Haile Selassie, whose real name is Tafari Makonnen. His pre-emperor title of "Ras", meaning duke or prince, coupled with his first name was the source of the word "Rastafarian", a counter-culture movement developed in Jamaica and brought to light by reggae musicians like Bob Marley. Go figure

      After a tour of the museum, we drove through the local markets. Some pix attached.
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    • Day 79

      Au bord du Lac Tana, le Nil Bleu

      January 23, 2019 in Ethiopia ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

      Notre première virée hors de la capitale sera aux abords du Lac Tana, 10h de bus au nord-ouest d'Addis, dans la région Amhara.

      Nous prenons donc le bus de bon matin direction la ville de Bahar Dar. Nous passons un super trajet en compagnie d'éthiopiens attentionnés et nous faisons la connaissance d'une famille avec leur petit Menelik. Avec lui nous avons le droit à un cours particulier des animaux de la ferme en langue Amharique, ce qui nous permet maintenant de nous la raconter à chaque fois que nous croisons des animaux !

      Plusieurs surprises nous attendent le long du trajet. Tout d'abord nous croisons de charmants petits villages constitués de Tukuls (huttes rondes traditionnelles en toit de chaume) et d'habitations ressemblent à de petites maisonnettes fabriquées en eucalyptus et recouvertes d'un toit en acier. Toutes sont très bien construites et entretenues. Les éthiopiens au bord des routes se font de plus en plus nombreux au fur et à mesure que le jour se lève.
      Enfin, au milieu du trajet, au détour d'un virage, nous plongeons dans la Vallée du Grand Rift, immense canyon parcourant tout l'est du continent... grandiose, vertigineux, nous sommes scotchés à la fenêtre.

      Arrivés à Bahar Dar, ça grouille de monde, ça klaxonne, ça sent le café, ça vend et achète de tout... ville bouillonnante aux abords du paisible Lac Tana. Ce lac est la source du Nil Bleu, l'un des deux principaux affluents du Nil.

      Nous profitons de ces quelques jours pour nous balader aux abords du lac et aller voir les chutes du Nil Bleu. Après 1h30 de tappe-cul en minibus local, et une belle balade dans la campagne, nous voilà devant ces cascades. Elles sont magnifiques mais ont perdu de leur grandeur, et cela pour deux raisons : nous sommes en saison sèche, et le débit à été fortement réduit du fait de la construction d'un barrage hydraulique en amont... électricité ou eau pour l'agriculture ? Malheureusement il faut choisir... constat encore plus dur lorsque l'on s'aperçoit au retour, dans la nuit, que beaucoup de villages voisins n'ont pas l'électricité...

      Le Lac Tana, un premier pas vers la découverte de la "vraie" Ethiopie, avec ses gens adorables mais parfois insistants, sa population jeune mais pauvre, son développement progressif mais encore trop partiel, et tant d'autres paradoxes.
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    • Day 3

      Bahir Dar

      November 8, 2019 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

      Heute fahren wir nach Bahir Dar. Die Reise führt uns 560km nördlich. Ganz früh am Morgen starten wir die Fahrt und kommen erst abends 20.30 Uhr an. Wir fahren durch die trockene und schöne Landschaft im Hochland. Wir überqueren den blauen Nil, haben einen atemberaubenden Blick auf den afrikanischen Grabenbuch und beobachten Paviane am Straßenrand. Die Straßenverhältnisse sind nicht die besten, teilweise nur Schotterpisten. Es geht bergauf und bergab. Wir fahren durch kleine Dörfer und erleben das Treiben der Menschen auf den Straßen. Esel, Schafe und Kühe laufen entlang der Straßen oder grasen am Wegesrand. Das Leben hier ist schon sehr arm aber trotzdem sind die Menschen glücklich, zufrieden und sehr freundlich. Teilweise gibt es keinen Strom und Wasser wird aus der nächsten Wasserstelle geholt. Als Transportmittel wird der Esel genutzt. Manchmal sieht man aber auch Pferdekarren und TuckTucks. Autos besitzen die Menschen auf dem Land fast gar nicht.
      Auf dem Weg nach Bahir Dar hat es im Gebirge einen Unfall gegeben. Zwei LKW's sind kollidiert. Der eine ist umgestürzt, der andere in zwei Hälften gerissen. Die Piste ist komplett blockiert. Zwei Stunden müssen wir mitten im Nirgendwo bei sengender Hitze ausharren. Wieder mal ein Abenteuer, das so typisch ist für Afrika.
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    • Day 44

      Lake Tana!

      October 29, 2015 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C

      Nach einigen kuhlen Tagen in addis sind wir nun gen Norden gezogen um neue Gefilde zu erkunden! Die Busfahrt war der Horror, aber es gab ne super Aussicht! Zwischendrin wurde geklettert und getrunken, "wenn ich du wäre" gespielt (das kopftuch uns der Glitzer Hut) , jazz gehört, ein wenig die Stadt erkundet und neue Leute kennen gelernt. Morgen geht es dann auf den See und die Inseln anschauen, dann übermorgen an die Nilfälle!Read more

    • Day 3

      Auf dem Weg durch's Hochland

      November 8, 2019 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

      Wir passieren das Simien Gebirge und die 1500m tiefe Nilschlucht. Die Tafelberge Tigrays erinnern mit ihren roten und weißen Steinen an den mittleren Westen der USA.

    • Day 11

      I Ate in Bahir Dar

      January 12, 2016 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      Apparently writting about my fears and short comings has taken it’s power away! I woke up this morning (around 4am of course, jet-lag hasn’t improved) feeling the effects of not eating; hands shaking, legs wobbly, not feeling top shape. But I was determined. We had planned for a 3-4 day hike in a couple days and I was determined to get my issues under control before then.

      So I got up. I had a left over pastry for yesterday, kind of a mini banana bread or something, that I was determined to finish! Well believe it or not folks, I had about 4/5 of it and it felt like I was such a champ! Nothing could stop me! I took a super cold shower without even being fazed by it. We went out around 8am hoping to hitch a ride with a tour to monasteries on Lake Tana. I actually felt energized, the monasteries were beautiful and I could actually appreciate it. I had fascinating conversations with other tourist and actually managed to socialize without wanting to curl up into a corner. I was actually more talkative then Jack today! Unstoppable. Incredible what food will do for you. With my new found confidence we had a late lunch and I ate 2 pieces of pizza. I’m on cloud 9!

      Bahir Dar has been beautiful. The monasteries showed some very particular cultural practises – shoes off before entering, they were circular with an inner circle only the priests could enter. The people are so proud of their culture. We were invited to have a cup of coffee – the beens coming from the island, roasted locally.

      Of course the usual ‘tourist trap’ issues like we were told the boat ride to the peninsula where we would see the first ministry was 45 minutes, it took 1hr10. We were promised food at the first stop because Jack hadn’t had a chance to have breakfast yet, and there were bananas only (keeping in mind we left at 9am and returned at 230pm). Still one great experience, and just being on a boat, and the water, so relaxing.

      Once back in town we took a walk along the shore of the lake. The nature was incredible and the bird watching was nuts! I know, sounds lame, but it’s always been something that I enjoyed, and colours and sounds of different birds. We stumbled upon a brand new church. We even walked far enough for the locals to finally start saying hi to us genuinely and not just to get something out of us.

      Today was a great day. The beginning of a great trip.
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    • Day 11

      Thoughts by Jack in Bahir Dar

      January 12, 2016 in Ethiopia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

      I know ya’ll were hoping for Vee’s inspiring words and funny posts, but I have thoughts too! A little different from hers…
      As aforementioned, we landed in Nairobi only to leave the very next morning for the capital of Ethiopia, Addis Ababa. I was a little surprised, (almost disappointed!) by how smooth both airports went. I was expecting chaos: It was not. Landing, getting the visas, finding a ride, finding washrooms: all was underwhelming. I came on this trip wanting to be challenged both personally and in my preconceptions of Africa: I know this isn’t just a World Vision ad of a starving child 24/7! Still, I viewed Africa as some “final frontier” for backpackers and independent travellers; there’s hardly any hostels and it’s expensive. Yet in our short time here I’ve realized that it’s like any other travel. You don’t understand the language, some people are super helpful, others less, but everybody needs to eat and sleep so you find those things easily. On the bus ride to Bahir Dar, I watched out the window among the blasting music of our bus to a landscape of yellow fields then red canyons and greens trees, dusty brown villages, blue skies and thin cattle with no sign of modern machinery. I had flashbacks of the trees near Aljoun in Jordan, the villages near San Carlos in Nicaragua, the children begging in Delhi and so forth. I felt at home like I often do when I’m lost. This isn’t the final frontier in any way, it’s just needs to be explored and I’m beyond excited to do so. I’m also, I won’t lie, excited for Vee to eat her first real meal. All in due time…till then, let’s go have fun!
      ps. In case I dulled you into a fake sense of comfort, none of the toilets haver their seats or toilet paper for that matter. Just so you know!
      Edit: Vee has eaten! I repeat, she has successfully had both an orange and pizza! *the crowd cheers* End of edit.
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    You might also know this place by the following names:

    Bahir Dar, Bahar Dar, ባሕር-ዳር, بحر دار, Μπαχρ-Νταρ, Baher Dar, בהר דר, BJR, ბაჰრ-დარი, 바히르다르, Bahyr Dar, Бахр-Дар, Бахир Дар, 巴赫達爾

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