Arnéguy

Today’s 7 1/2 kilometer hike was beautiful and brutal. The unfolding views of rolling fields dotted with the occasional sheep, pretty red-roofed farmhouses, and green mountain peaks were stunning. However, the always steep incline of the trail as we climbed 2,221 feet, at an altitude that we’re not adjusted to, had us stopping for frequent breaks.

The challenge validated our decision to make this a “short” day distance-wise. Arriving at Refuge Orisson at noon and being able to check in right away to our room was an unexpected boost, as we thought we’d likely have to wait until 2 or 3 p.m. to get settled.

Our seven “roommates” arrived around the same time: a German family group of five, and two Canadian women traveling alone. The Germans are only on the Camino until Pamplona; the Canadians are heading to Santiago. We felt lucky to be placed with such congenial people—in a newer room with stunning views.

The requisite daily showers (timed, with a token) and laundry (3 Euros for a load that didn’t spin dry) soon followed, along with a tastier than expected lunch at their outdoor restaurant.

Most online comments that we’d read claimed the food at Orisson is lackluster, but that wasn’t our experience. After lunch, we wrung our clothes out and hunted for spots on a crowded clothesline. Once that was sorted, it was time for a siesta punctuated by chats with our roomies.

A three-course dinner was served family-style at long tables for about 50 pilgrims. After dinner, we took turns standing up to say where were from and why we were on the Camino. Many of the vignettes were quite moving.

Our next leg is to Roncesvalles, 17 kilometers away. We’ll climb another 2,690 feet but are told the inclines up aren’t quite as steep as today’s but we will have a steep 2,194 feet descent.

More about that next time!Read more