France
Arrondissement de Saint-Omer

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    • Day 19

      Stage 10: Amettes to Bruay-la-Buissière

      April 29, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 45 °F

      Lots of forest paths and a good number of cultivated and uncultivated fields. A couple more small, dead animals (unphotographed). A road between fields with lots of small potatoes, even though the fields were wheat. Weird.
      I managed to slightly twist, or maybe just fatigue, my ankle, so I added an hour to my day hunting down a pharmacy.
      Bruay-la-Buissière is an ugly former mining town.
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    • Day 8

      Amettes 12 miles

      July 20, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

      Straightforward day’s walk in (mostly) sun. Usual fields and woods, seeing no-one.

      The host of the gite turned up before I left, just for a blether really. Reminded me of the late Peter in his enthusiasm for random things. He did however bring me a local delicacy, bit like a round waffle, covered in chocolate and with some sort of cream filling. In the absence of anything else it went down a rare treat for breakfast.

      Spent most of the walk listening to Desert Island Discs. Never heard it before I started my training for this walk but it has became my constant companion if I am walking on my own. With BBC Sounds it is so easy to just play episodes one after another. There are very few that I haven’t wanted to listen right through. Haven’t heard of very many of the folk but no matter, their life stories condensed into 40 minutes or so are amazing. The music they choose is less interesting but they only play wee clips so that’s fine. I was concerned that I wouldn’t be able to download them as I go but there isn’t any problem so far.

      Was a bit concerned about dinner (not for the first time in my life) as I am staying in a sort of farmhouse in a small village without any shops, cafes etc. When I arrived the elderly lady was very chatty albeit with no more English than I have French, but no mention was made of food. These pilgrim places are all very different in what is provided. There is no standard package. I came downstairs at about the appropriate time and sat about outside, near the kitchen, waiting to see if anything was forthcoming. Surely they must eat and they must realise I might like to eat too. After a while the lady indicated that there was a kitchen I could use and she could give me some potatoes and eggs. Might not do the Buc but it was just fine for me. Boiled eggs and boiled potatoes are just about the limit of my culinary skills anyway. Really could do with some sort of pudding to follow but hey ho at least I’m not still starving.
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    • Day 7

      Therouanne 14 miles

      July 19, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

      After 3 consecutive nights camping I thought I could justify something more comfortable last night. I could have stayed in a monastery but I remember staying there last time and it was very strange. A communal meal with the monks, eaten in compulsory silence, monks round the walls all staring at the pilgrim eating in the centre of the room. And the food wasn’t great.

      This time I went for a nice hotel with a reasonably priced dinner, bed and breakfast. I had booked a special “businessman’s rate” which is the only way it came close to my budget. When I booked it I hadn’t paid much attention to the rules but as it got closer I did begin to worry. The hotel site seemed to be very insistent that the special rate was only available to a solo traveller genuinely travelling “on business”. In my day a businessman would have been expected to turn up wearing a suit and driving a Ford Mondeo. I know times have changed but not sure if a smelly t-shirt and shorts, lugging a rucksack with no car in sight might have made them a little suspicious. If rumbled I was planning to say that I was a writer and I was in the process of writing a book on the via. Only a slight exaggeration.

      Anyway I checked in, ate the dinner (3 course including a bucket of mussels and a nice glass of wine), slept well, did the breakfast proud and went to check out. Got my knuckles gently rapped. Didn’t have the cheek to try the writer nonsense.

      Interesting choice of route for the day. Either the official one, 14 miles wandering about fields and woods or 8 miles by a fairly straight road. Not in any particular hurry and the weather was fine (well only raining a little) so went for the 14 miles. Reducing the chance of being smeared over the road helped the decision making.

      Tonight I am staying in a gite reserved for pilgrims. Can sleep about 14 but it looks like I’m the only one. Bit basic compared to the hotel but they do only charge 25€ so I can possibly overlook the plastic covered mattress. Dinner was a pre-cooked lasagne from a local butcher. Suspect breakfast will be a pain au chocolat from the baker as I pass in the morning. Could be a sparse day for food tomorrow.
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    • Day 6

      Geschichte und schöne Landschaft

      October 4, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

      Heute Morgen wurden wir mit munterem Geschnatter von den Nachbarsenten geweckt. 🦆 Die kleinen Kollegen haben uns sogar besucht und sind an und unter unserem Camper durchgeschnattert. War ein Lacher am Morgen, als die Chefin vor unserem Heckfenster rumgemeckert hat.

      Daniel hat - man muss beinahe schon sagen "wie gewohnt" - einen Ausflug mit dem 🛴 zum Supermarkt unternommen und uns ein frisches 🥖 besorgt.

      Nach unserem Frühstück und der Camper-Versorgung sind wir dann ins Inland aufgebrochen. Wunderschöne Land- und Feldwege, die erstaunlicherweise Hauptstraßen waren, sind wir entlang gefahren, denn wir Sparbrötchen wollen ja auf Maut verzichten. 😅

      Am Ende sind wir beim "Blockhaus von Éperlecques gelandet. Dem eindrucksvollsten Bunker, den wir je gesehen haben, wenn man es denn so nennen darf. Das Gelände wurde in ein Museum umgewandelt und man durchläuft verschiedene Stationen. Ganze 6000 Zwangsarbeiter verschiedener Nationen wurden damals wortwörtlich angekarrt und haben die Errichtung bewältigt. In einem dieser Waggons haben wir gestanden und es wurden Tonaufnahmen abgespielt, was man von Innen an Außengeräuschen wahrnehmen konnte. Gruselig und erschreckend sind die beiden spontanen Beschreibungen, die ich dafür finde.
      Der Bunker selbst, der für den Start der V Raketen gebaut wurde, wurde dann im letzten Teil des zweiten Weltkriegs halb zerbombt, sodass er zum Glück nie in den aktiven Betrieb ging. Daniel hat sich mal neben die Außenhülle gestellt, damit man die Größenverhältnisse erkennen kann. Einfach verrückt. Alles daran.
      Auf die respektvollste Art und Weise empfehlen wir diesen Besuch jedem weiter. Für das Museum, das sich alle Mühe gibt, um diesen Ort zu verwalten und zu pflegen und für jeden Besucher, der auf eindrucksvollste Weise Informationen jedweder Art aus den sorgfältig gestalteten Infotafeln entnehmen kann.

      Im Anschluss mussten wir erstmal alles sacken lassen und haben uns wieder auf die Straße begeben. Wir brauchten nämlich endlich - fast am Ende unserer Reise - mal einen Wasserschlauch. Natürlich einen zum Zusammenrollen, ist klar. ☝️
      Baumärkte sind hier gar nicht so leicht zu finden. Zumindest nicht über Google Maps. Als wir aber dann in Arques gelandet sind, in dem es jedes Geschäft der Welt zu geben scheint, sind wir im dritten Markt endlich fündig geworden.
      Nachdem wir uns dann mit Händen und Füßen auch noch ein, was die Franzosen hier "Steak" (🙄) nennen, erstanden haben, sind wir nach kurzer Suche zu unserem Standplatz für die Nacht aufgebrochen.

      Nach diesem Abendessen können wir uns nun wirklich Premium-Camper nennen! 🥹
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    • Day 13

      Unser letzter Stellplatz

      May 11, 2022 in France ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

      Wir durften wieder auf dem Parkplatz des Museums übernachten.
      Man sollte darauf achten, das Gelände nicht nach 18.30 h zu verlassen, weil sie einen wirklich einschließen.
      Wir mussten nochmal mit dem Hund raus und prompt war das Tor zu und unser Womo auf dem Gelände des Museums.
      Also blieb uns nix übrig als mit samt Hund über das Tor zu klettern. 🙈🙈🙈🙈
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    • Day 6

      Wisques 12 miles

      July 18, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      The toilet saga continues. Last night’s campsite considered that one “bathroom” was sufficient for the entire campsite. One room with a shower, toilet and sink for I don’t know how many campers. Naturally when I went to brush my remaining teeth there were a couple enjoying their evening ablutions including a shower. 30 minutes may not seem long but I would have much rather spent the time inside my sleeping bag than standing outside the toilet.

      I was then kept awake for a couple of hours by some folk talking. After that I was just cold. Not a great night all told.

      Anyway I set off this morning in the sun, stopping off at yesterday’s cafe to see what she could manage for breakfast. Turned out it was orange juice, croissant, pain au chocolat and a coffee. Strangely, I was expected to eat a naked croissant. I know some folk consider that normal but I would expect butter and marmalade or possibly butter and Nutella but most certainly butter. And don’t try that nonsense of croissant is made of butter so you don’t need any more. Realised somewhat late that I should have taken some away with me as there was nothing more to be had until dinner.

      A fine walk, mostly sunny but not too hot, usually between fields although with some short sections of road to add a little spice. Only came across one person all day. A lady using hedge trimmers at the side of the road, outside her house. As I passed her she gave a sudden start and gave me a filthy look. Now it might be she was just surprised at a passerby but also possible she was just startled by catching a wee whiff of pilgrim. I didn’t stay to enquire.

      To give a measure of the sort of day it was, the highlight was passing over the A26 on which one could cover the 150 or so miles from Calais to Reims in under 3 hours by car. I should manage it in a little over 2 weeks and will meander about 235 miles on the way.

      I did take advantage of the solitude by giving voice to my playlist despite my nearest and dearest stating frequently that I can no more sing than walk on water. A good example of one’s memory of music being the last to disappear is that I considered I was pretty word perfect to the double album of the Jesus Christ Superstar soundtrack albeit a second or two behind.
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    • Day 4

      Licques 11 miles

      July 16, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌬 19 °C

      Slept in. Well not exactly slept. More like dozed fitfully. Camping is not really good for proper sleep. Firstly, you have wind. No, not me. Apparently, it was gusting up to 45mph last night. Quite believe it. My tent made quite a racket. Bought for lightness rather than robustness.

      Secondly my mat, also bought for lightness. As shown in the photo it is tiny, especially compared to my old one. I can just about get my head, shoulder and bum on it if I am careful. Feels like I am trying to balance on a partly blown-up balloon. I also bought a blowup pillow. Nice idea but I’m now trying to balance my head on a balloon on top of a balloon. And then there are the kids in the campsite who seem to turn in after me but wake much earlier. Might not be the same kids of course they could be operating in shifts. And I was hungry.

      Anyway I did get going eventually. First I had to walk in the wrong direction to get something to eat so it took about an hour to get back to the campsite. Luckily it was another short day. About half spent in woods.

      On arrival at another campsite I got myself and clothes washed, sort of. In my desperation to get my bag as light as possible I ditched the wee shampoo and soap I had planned to take. No problem in hotels but consecutive nights camping is a little less pleasant. As I have laundry wash at least the clothes will be clean.

      Lesson of the day :- I have noticed a tendency of some folk to dress according to what the weather on the previous day. I have just done the culinary equivalent. Last night I noticed the pizzas were popular and they looked lovely. But I had ordered quickly so went for that dire risotto before seeing any pizzas. Tonight I again ordered quickly at the campsite snack bar and went for the pizza. Shocking effort. While struggling to finish it I noticed that no one who came in after me ordered pizza. Might play a waiting game tomorrow and suss the scene.
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    • Day 5

      Tournehem-sur-la-Hem 10 miles

      July 17, 2023 in France ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

      An interesting start to the day. Situation probably familiar to many who camp. There is a reluctance to get out of the sleeping bag and tent and trek to the loo too often during the night. So when morning comes there can be a certain urgency especially for gentlemen of rather advanced years. Now last night’s campsite had decided to only provide 2 traps in the nearest toilet block. Usually quite sufficient I’m sure. But I have noticed a tendency of some gents to simply take up residence in the morning and wait for nature to take its course. And this can sometimes take some time, not something I suspected I had in abundance. Faced with 2 locked traps my French was not up to enquiring whether the gentlemen were expecting to be long. Luckily there was another block somewhere which I simply had to find and get to in time.

      It would have been lovely to have followed that stramash with a nice breakfast. Nothing available. Luckily I had purchased a Snickers bar a couple of days ago for such an eventuality. Washed it down with some water and off I went.

      Every now and then I came upon a seat, a bench or even a picnic table put beside the path for walkers or cyclists but today I came across the next level. Not only were there 2 picnic tables placed under shade but it also had its own composting toilet. The only slight drawback was that I had nothing to eat and, after the minimal breakfast, there was no real need for the loo either. Never mind it’s the thought that counts.

      Those following my route may have noticed that I don’t seem to take the straightest path each day. Indeed today I started going north, back towards Calais. This seemed to be so that I could visit the ruins of the 15th century Chapelle de Saint-Louis. Not totally convinced it was worth the effort but the rain possibly detracted from my appreciation of its finer points. The subsequent locked gate didn’t help although I do prefer a locked gate to a barbed wire fence.

      Just before reaching the campsite I came upon an open cafe. Not bad for a Monday in France. The only thing that madam was able to produce was a Croque Monsieur but I was in no place to turn it down.

      It was sufficiently cheap that I have returned this evening to see what she could manage in the evening. I’m not sure what the problem is but it turns out despite the board outside promising delights such as moules frites all that was available was some sort of cold stew and frites. I suspect the chef doesn’t do Mondays.
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    • Day 16

      Stage7: Tournehem-sur-la-Hem to Wisques

      April 26, 2023 in France ⋅ ☁️ 36 °F

      Fields of wheat and colza, a couple windmills. No rain today!

      Belén injured her foot so after some frantic activity we found someone to drive her to Saint-Omen where she’ll catch the train tomorrow and head for home.

      I continued on and am staying at the Abbaye de Notre Dame in Wisques. Sixteen cloistered nuns live here. Sœur Lucie is a dynamo.
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    • Day 54

      Not quite the end 🥲

      July 5, 2023 in France ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

      The last few stops have seemed like a wind down as we get closer to Calais and the long trek home up through the U.K. But today, the day before the crossing, seemed like the end. However here we are 30 mins from Calais at Ganspette Chateau Camping and just a few miles away deep in a forest is Blockhaus d’Eperlecques. A concrete structure built by the Nazis for their V1 and V2 program. The museum grounds with audio is fascinating, and it made for a great last day in mainland Europe - even Suzan enjoyed it. 😉. Defo worth a visit if in the area. Until the next time - signing out of this part of our trip. A few difficult days but in the main it’s been a blast. U.K. here we comeRead more

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    Arrondissement de Saint-Omer

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