Bastia

We got up early to be at the fuel dock when it opened at 0800 hrs. and to get an early start to Bastia even though it's a short distance. The wind started out at 14 knots so we set off with a reefed main and a partial jib. The wind got shifty and slowed so we motorsailed. The sea swells were from the SE and the wind shifted to W so the waves were mixed 🤢. Nestled on the hillsides, in varying shades of green, are houses, communities, vineyards, and olive groves. Looking at those houses on the mountainsides, I always wonder how far someone has to go to get milk! As we got closer to Bastia, the wind came whistling and howling down the mountainsides and our +25 knot wind alarm kept sounding. We went into the 1st little harbour recommended as an all weather safe harbour and were told they were full, even though we could see empty spaces. 😡👎That would not happen in Holland or Atlantic France as they let you raft up. In the Mediterranean, they want to pack as many boats in so boats go stern in to the dock with a mooring line off the bow and no finger docks between. So we went back out and down to the vieux port of Bastia where the water was calm but the wind was still blowing 25 knots. As we neared the quay, we realized there was a ledge jutting out just under the water! Reversed quickly then turned and went stern in with me jumping on the quay to attach stern lines. I enlisted a couple passing by to hold lines but now the boat was being blown sideways onto the quay! There was a flurry of leaping on and off, a gathering of bumpers and pulling of lines to get us perpendicular to the quay. We ended up with 2 heavy duty mooring lines attached to cement blocks under water and 3 dock lines on the windward side and 2 on the other to hold it against the wind! We joked later that it would be tough to explain to the insurance co. how a boat sank in a marina! 🤷‍♀️ We were secure, and doubly so when the wind calmed that evening to nothing! 🤦🏻‍♀️
With the wind still howling, a group practicing survival skills leapt into the water beside us. We didn't see them climbing into the liferaft but I'm sure it was challenging in that wind! We went for a wander, passing Napoléon's statue made to resemble Jupiter, and visited the the biggest church in Corsica built in 1636 with a pulpit made of marble and an organ loft built to resemble the stern of a ship. We made plans for the next day's train adventure to Corte, in the mountainous centre of Corsica. A stress free night.👍Read more